I am in the DFW area: I have a pomergranite tree that blossomed
heavily in the spring but the flower all fell out without yielding a
single fruit, could it have been overwatered? I also have a pear tree
that is starting leaf drop, the leaves show a yellow and brown pattern
on both sides of the center vein, the leaf will drop and turn black as
with blight but all my previous encounters with blight shows the leave
and twigs with a burned look on the tree. Any thoughts?

ss

wrote:

I am in the DFW area: I have a pomergranite tree that blossomed
heavily in the spring but the flower all fell out without yielding a
single fruit, could it have been overwatered? I also have a pear tree
that is starting leaf drop, the leaves show a yellow and brown pattern
on both sides of the center vein, the leaf will drop and turn black as
with blight but all my previous encounters with blight shows the leave
and twigs with a burned look on the tree. Any thoughts?

ss

Pomegranite:

Did ya get a late freeze after the blooms? I never water mine unless
they are in their first year or severe drought which we have not had
this year. They are from Turkey and the silk road area and are pretty
drought tolerant.

Are they in the shade? That can prevent fruit as well. Also did you
fertilize the lawn where they are? High nitrogen could also be an issue.

The other trees my question would be did you Weed and Feed??????
If you did you probably killed them with the Weed Killer. If not I have
seen my get them too, could be over fertilization. Could be a blight I
am not a big expert but I know I have killed trees with fertilizer and I
learned my lesson. I never fertilize or water the lawn and I have the
greenest prettiest grass around.

On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 17:55:01 -0500, MrChaos007
wrote:

wrote:

I am in the DFW area: I have a pomergranite tree that blossomed
heavily in the spring but the flower all fell out without yielding a
single fruit, could it have been overwatered? I also have a pear tree
that is starting leaf drop, the leaves show a yellow and brown pattern
on both sides of the center vein, the leaf will drop and turn black as
with blight but all my previous encounters with blight shows the leave
and twigs with a burned look on the tree. Any thoughts?

ss

Pomegranite:

Did ya get a late freeze after the blooms? I never water mine unless
they are in their first year or severe drought which we have not had
this year. They are from Turkey and the silk road area and are pretty
drought tolerant.

Are they in the shade? That can prevent fruit as well. Also did you
fertilize the lawn where they are? High nitrogen could also be an issue.

The other trees my question would be did you Weed and Feed??????
If you did you probably killed them with the Weed Killer. If not I have
seen my get them too, could be over fertilization. Could be a blight I
am not a big expert but I know I have killed trees with fertilizer and I
learned my lesson. I never fertilize or water the lawn and I have the
greenest prettiest grass around.



there was no late freeze, my pear, peach and apples fruited. i do not
use a weed and feed product, i did put out fertilizer stakes around
all my trees. i water heavily and we had a lengthly rainy period,
although i didn't see any of the classics signs of overwatering, it
was the only thing i could attribute the blossom fall to.

On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 02:01:00 GMT, opined:

there was no late freeze, my pear, peach and apples fruited. i do not
use a weed and feed product, i did put out fertilizer stakes around
all my trees. i water heavily and we had a lengthly rainy period,
although i didn't see any of the classics signs of overwatering, it
was the only thing i could attribute the blossom fall to.

If you watered more than once between blooming and about three weeks ago, you
over watered. Tree spikes are nothing more than synthetic, potentially toxic
fertilizer. Immediately, I would pull back any turf from under the trees and
apply a two inch layer of fungal based compost, topped by another few inches of
good mulch. I recommend the Sylvan Formula over at The Natural Gardener
www.naturalgardeneraustin.com and their Revitilizer compost is both fungal and
bacterial based. Excellent and well worth the money.

Before you place the mulch and compost under the tree, out to the drip line,
take a garden fork and tear at the soil a bit so you can aerate the soil. At
this point, do give it a good, deep watering if the soil is dry (if the soil is
not dry, do not water again) and place mulch and compost away from the trunk of
the tree. You should see a root flare at the base of the tree. If you don't see
a flare, the trees are planted too deeply. To change that, dig around the base
of the trunk until you do see a flare and do not place anything up against it.

v





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If you watered more than once between blooming and about three weeks
ago, you over watered. Tree spikes are nothing more than synthetic,
potentially toxic fertilizer. Immediately, I would pull back any
turf from under the trees and apply a two inch layer of fungal based
compost, topped by another few inches of good mulch. I recommend the
Sylvan Formula over at The Natural Gardener
www.naturalgardeneraustin.com and their Revitilizer compost is both
fungal and bacterial based. Excellent and well worth the money.

Before you place the mulch and compost under the tree, out to the
drip line, take a garden fork and tear at the soil a bit so you can
aerate the soil. At this point, do give it a good, deep watering if
the soil is dry (if the soil is not dry, do not water again) and
place mulch and compost away from the trunk of the tree. You should
see a root flare at the base of the tree. If you don't see a flare,
the trees are planted too deeply. To change that, dig around the
base of the trunk until you do see a flare and do not place anything
up against it.

v

Thank you, that is a very helpful post! I was looking at the base of my
pear tree and wondering if it was normal, but that must be a root flare.

Cindy