Charlie Pridham wrote:
I am about to start trying to break up a concrete splat with blocks bedded
in, a trail go tells me the previous guy did not stint on the cement powder!
Last year doing similar work I gave myself "Tennis Elbow" which took nearly
a year to sort. As I don't want it back rather than use my trusty lump
hammer, sledge, crowbar and bolsters, I thought I would try one of those
Electric Jack Hammers (may be called something else) has anyone used one?
are they likely to do the job? and are they any less stressful for the arms?

Sorry, bit late with this one - however, yes, use a "heavy duty
concrete breaker", such as at: http://www.chs-hire.co.uk/breakers.html.
These don't *seem* to vibrate much at all, but are very effective at
breaking concrete! They are quite heavy, though. Start near an edge,
so that you've somewhere for a lump of concrete to break away into
(sticking the thing in the middle won't be much use!), and "press
the button". It will go "drriddle driddle driddle", and you will
think (this is rubbish", then it will break off a lump of concrete,
& you will think "Wow!". If there's soft earth under, the bit will
tend to dig into it. Keep your balance, and the balance of the
breaker, and it's remarkably easy and strain-free. Get two bits, in
case one blunts or gets stuck, when you can use the other one to
dig the first out. You can use the sharp end as a lever to push away
one lump of concrete before breaking the next. Note, 240v ones are
available, which are lighter (slightly) than 110v ones, however
110v ones are easier to find.

"Chris Bacon" wrote in message
...
Charlie Pridham wrote:
I am about to start trying to break up a concrete splat with blocks
bedded
in, a trail go tells me the previous guy did not stint on the cement
powder!
Last year doing similar work I gave myself "Tennis Elbow" which took
nearly
a year to sort. As I don't want it back rather than use my trusty lump
hammer, sledge, crowbar and bolsters, I thought I would try one of those
Electric Jack Hammers (may be called something else) has anyone used one?
are they likely to do the job? and are they any less stressful for the
arms?

Sorry, bit late with this one - however, yes, use a "heavy duty
concrete breaker", such as at: http://www.chs-hire.co.uk/breakers.html.
These don't *seem* to vibrate much at all, but are very effective at
breaking concrete! They are quite heavy, though. Start near an edge,
so that you've somewhere for a lump of concrete to break away into
(sticking the thing in the middle won't be much use!), and "press
the button". It will go "drriddle driddle driddle", and you will
think (this is rubbish", then it will break off a lump of concrete,
& you will think "Wow!". If there's soft earth under, the bit will
tend to dig into it. Keep your balance, and the balance of the
breaker, and it's remarkably easy and strain-free. Get two bits, in
case one blunts or gets stuck, when you can use the other one to
dig the first out. You can use the sharp end as a lever to push away
one lump of concrete before breaking the next. Note, 240v ones are
available, which are lighter (slightly) than 110v ones, however
110v ones are easier to find.

Depending on how much concrete is actually there, and the OP's health
worries, the easiest and quickest route may well be to hire a Kubota (or
similar) mini-excavator for the day with a concrete breaker attachment. I
recall these being about £70 for the day without a driver (although they are
very simple to operate)

adm wrote:
Depending on how much concrete is actually there, and the OP's health
worries, the easiest and quickest route may well be to hire a Kubota (or
similar) mini-excavator for the day with a concrete breaker attachment. I
recall these being about £70 for the day without a driver (although they are
very simple to operate)

Good "point"! Breakers are somewhat heavy, he could sit
down & still do the job!

"Chris Bacon" wrote in message
...
adm wrote:
Depending on how much concrete is actually there, and the OP's health
worries, the easiest and quickest route may well be to hire a Kubota (or
similar) mini-excavator for the day with a concrete breaker attachment.
I
recall these being about £70 for the day without a driver (although they
are
very simple to operate)

Good "point"! Breakers are somewhat heavy, he could sit
down & still do the job!

Unfortunately, I can not get any machinery however small into the garden
without a crane as its 8' above road level and the gates and steps in, make
all entrances a nogo.
I have heeded Nicks warnings that whilst a Kango might very well do the job
it might also cause a reoccurrence of the original injury (trust me you
wouldn't want it twice) I suspect hiring someone and his Kango will be best,
although I am not used to excepting help, paid for or otherwise (please
don't tell me its a sign of things to come!)
Anyway as I want the concrete rubble for an infill job else where it
shouldn't be too horrendous price wise!
--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs)

The message
from (Nick Maclaren) contains these words:

| I think I could find a couple of kilos of black powder if I looked hard
| enough.

Clearly the ideal method to use in the current climate, especially
in places like London or Luton. You probably won't be able to tell
us how you get on unless you post a message very quickly afterwards,
but we shall doubtless hear about it.

I can run quite fast, dude.

And I have a Mrs Thatcher mask with a false moustache...

--

,,,
}»«üüüü(@
´ ´

"Charlie Pridham" wrote in message

Many thanks for all the comment, seems best idea may be to get someone
else
to do it WITH a Kango hammer! I shall go and take a look at them before
deciding.

There is an alternative so I'm wondering why it hasn't been suggested yet.

There are machines called concrete saws which I assume should be available
in Britain from industrial hire places. It will do the job. See the range
which are made and at least some of which should be available at:
http://www.csunitec.com/concretesaws/saw.html

In article ,
"Charlie Pridham" writes:
|
| I have heeded Nicks warnings that whilst a Kango might very well do the job
| it might also cause a reoccurrence of the original injury (trust me you
| wouldn't want it twice) ....

Agreed :-(

To ensure that there is no confusion, I do know that such devices
can enhance SOME forms of problem (e.g. carpal tunnel syndrome
and nerve compression), but have no knowledge one way or the other
whether it would do the same for tennis elbow. However, based on
what I know of physiology and the use of such devices, it seems
very likely that it would do so. If I were considering such a
task, I would consult a physiotherapist first, for exactly your
reason.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Farm1 wrote:
"Charlie Pridham" wrote in message

Many thanks for all the comment, seems best idea may be to get
someone else to do it WITH a Kango hammer! I shall go and take a
look at them before deciding.

There is an alternative so I'm wondering why it hasn't been
suggested
yet.

There are machines called concrete saws which I assume should be
available in Britain from industrial hire places. It will do the
job. See the range which are made and at least some of which
should
be available at: http://www.csunitec.com/concretesaws/saw.html

I've used these, and they're great fun -- up to a point. But (1) you
still have to break up the concrete once you've sliced it, and if
you've had trouble with your anatomy before, you never know whether
it's going to be the hundredth heavy shock or the first light one
which is going to bring it on again*; and (2) the diamond-edged
blades wear out, and are expensive. You couldn't expect to use the
saw on its own to reduce the concrete to rubble: too slow, even if
you own a diamond mine.

I vote for hiring professional muscle.

*I promise not to talk about my right knee: even the doctor's sick of
it.

--
Mike.

Unfortunately, I can not get any machinery however small into the garden
without a crane as its 8' above road level and the gates and steps in,
make
all entrances a nogo.

Why not hire the digger and build a better entraceway at the same time ;-).
At last you have a "chance" - the only way such a thing could enter my
garden is by crane OVER the house, unless the neighbours for about 4 doors
either side don't mind me drigin up their drive and then along the back of
all the intervening gardens :-(.

Paul DS.

"Paul D.Smith" wrote in message
. net...
Unfortunately, I can not get any machinery however small into the garden
without a crane as its 8' above road level and the gates and steps in,
make
all entrances a nogo.

Why not hire the digger and build a better entraceway at the same time
;-).
At last you have a "chance" - the only way such a thing could enter my
garden is by crane OVER the house, unless the neighbours for about 4 doors
either side don't mind me drigin up their drive and then along the back of
all the intervening gardens :-(.

Paul DS.

Historic granite gateways and we are in a conservation area. I could get one
of the small ones into the front as I had moved a post when we moved in and
I did not realise I wasn't supposed to (and nobody in the last 22 years has
yet noticed!) the back however is up steps or between two buildings, it is
exactly 1" smaller gap than the lawn tractor we inherited.
but I am winning with the concrete a combination of son helping and using a
smaller lump hammer and just doing 5 mins here and there, I may get fed up
and hire a kango but so far my arm is holding up.
--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs)

Charlie Pridham wrote:

Historic granite gateways and we are in a conservation area. I could get one
of the small ones into the front as I had moved a post when we moved in and
I did not realise I wasn't supposed to (and nobody in the last 22 years has
yet noticed!) the back however is up steps or between two buildings, it is
exactly 1" smaller gap than the lawn tractor we inherited.
but I am winning with the concrete a combination of son helping and using a
smaller lump hammer and just doing 5 mins here and there, I may get fed up
and hire a kango but so far my arm is holding up.
--


I've got a non-tracked powerfab digger which will go 27.5 inches wide
and if necessary the boom can be dismantled off the front. I don't
know where you coudl hire one from but it may be an idea to look
around. You'd need the breaker attachment.

http://home.c2i.net/cbp-2res1/per-gunnar/graver.JPG

wrote in message
ups.com...

Charlie Pridham wrote:

Historic granite gateways and we are in a conservation area. I could get
one
of the small ones into the front as I had moved a post when we moved in
and
I did not realise I wasn't supposed to (and nobody in the last 22 years
has
yet noticed!) the back however is up steps or between two buildings, it
is
exactly 1" smaller gap than the lawn tractor we inherited.
but I am winning with the concrete a combination of son helping and
using a
smaller lump hammer and just doing 5 mins here and there, I may get fed
up
and hire a kango but so far my arm is holding up.
--


I've got a non-tracked powerfab digger which will go 27.5 inches wide
and if necessary the boom can be dismantled off the front. I don't
know where you coudl hire one from but it may be an idea to look
around. You'd need the breaker attachment.

http://home.c2i.net/cbp-2res1/per-gunnar/graver.JPG

Looks like an ideal Christmas present :~)

--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs)