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#1
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Which tree?
Hello.
We want to plant a tree in a 3 foot gap between our greenhouse and a fence. Because of the restricted location we obviously don't want anything too big (say 20 foot max). We're also a bit concerned about the roots undermining the greenhouse foundations. Ideally we want something with an upright shape so that there aren't too many branches overhanging the greenhouse. We are planting a tree to block out the towering brick backdrop of a neighbour's extension so would really like something evergreen but not a conifer. Once above the greenhouse, the tree would receive full sun in all seasons but midwinter. I really fancy a Eucalyptus but haven't seen any that are small enough. Are there small varieties that are evergreen? Any other suggestions please? Thanks. -- Paul Flackett Remove _bra to reply by e-mail. |
#2
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Which tree?
"Victor Meldrew" wrote in message ... anything too big (say 20 foot max). We're also a bit concerned about the roots undermining the greenhouse foundations. Ideally we want something with an upright shape so that there aren't too many branches overhanging the greenhouse. It depends on which side of the greenhouse you put the tree. The sun isn't directly overhead so shade is cast to one side. If its on the shade side of the greehouse then if the branches are high enough, the sun will come in under them. I'd worry more about trees that drop leaves/sap or are prone to bugs that drop stuff which will get the glass dirty and clog the gutters. We are planting a tree to block out the towering brick backdrop of a neighbour's extension so would really like something evergreen but not a conifer. Once above the greenhouse, the tree would receive full sun in all seasons but midwinter. If you're on good terms with your neighbour you could buy him/her a nice climber of your choice to grow up the wall. I really fancy a Eucalyptus but haven't seen any that are small enough. Are there small varieties that are evergreen? I think you can keep an eucalyptus any size you want by copicing it but they're very flexible trees and you probably want something quite rigid so it doesn't bang against the greenhouse in high winds. Martin |
#3
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Which tree?
The short answer is nothing! You cannot safely plant any tree that close to
a building without the risk of future subsidence. The advice from surveyors is that no tree should be planted within 5 metres of a building. In the case of some species such as willows the distance should at least 40 metres. |
#4
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Which tree?
In message , Peter Crosland
writes The short answer is nothing! You cannot safely plant any tree that close to a building without the risk of future subsidence. The advice from surveyors is that no tree should be planted within 5 metres of a building. In the case of some species such as willows the distance should at least 40 metres. I found a lot of tree planting information at www.bureauinsure.co.uk. If the insurers are happy with these distances, well, I guess they must be the ones to be guided by. However, how long would it take the roots of an apple tree take to cause problems? Surely the roots of fruit trees grafted onto dwarfing rootstock won't cause anywhere near the problems of an apple on rootstock which would allow it to grow to its full potential over the years? -- Susie Thompson, Isle of Arran SPAM BLOCK IN OPERATION! Replace "deadspam.com" with "arrandragons.co.uk" to reply by e-mail. |
#5
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Which tree?
In article ,
SusieThompson wrote: In message , Peter Crosland writes The short answer is nothing! You cannot safely plant any tree that close to a building without the risk of future subsidence. The advice from surveyors is that no tree should be planted within 5 metres of a building. In the case of some species such as willows the distance should at least 40 metres. I found a lot of tree planting information at www.bureauinsure.co.uk. If the insurers are happy with these distances, well, I guess they must be the ones to be guided by. To state flatly that no tree should be planted within 5 metres and willows not within 40 is ridiculous. If that were true, almost all older houses would have fallen down long ago. The distances depend immensely on the soil (with clay being generally the worst and sand/gravel the best) and the type of tree. I know one 18th century house with a 65 cm diameter oak within 3 metres, and no foundation shift. I know one 1952 house on clay with a 40 cm diameter willow within 5 metres, ditto, but that is more surprising. Given that it is only a fence and greenhouse at stake, I wouldn't worry, but would choose a tree with a moderate final size - and, MOST IMPORTANTLY, not one prone to suckering! However, how long would it take the roots of an apple tree take to cause problems? Surely the roots of fruit trees grafted onto dwarfing rootstock won't cause anywhere near the problems of an apple on rootstock which would allow it to grow to its full potential over the years? They wouldn't. One on a full dwarfing rootstock would cause no problems at all, however close it was planted. Even one on its own roots is unlikely to cause much trouble, except in extreme cases. Regards, Nick Maclaren, University of Cambridge Computing Service, New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England. Email: Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679 |
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