Hi,

I have a bannana plant (Musa Bajoo) in a pot that has grown so long
that it is taller than the patio it is on. I feed it on loads of
chicken poo that it loves.

Can I shorten it and when?

"Bookworm" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I have a bannana plant (Musa Bajoo) in a pot that has grown so long
that it is taller than the patio it is on. I feed it on loads of
chicken poo that it loves.

Can I shorten it and when?


Yes take the extra 'n' out and I'd advise doing this as part of your next
post. Be careful which one you remove though as you don't want to choose the
wrong one when thinning out. :-)

Sorry....... I just couldn't resist! :-)


Stephen

"Bookworm" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I have a bannana plant (Musa Bajoo) in a pot that has grown so long
that it is taller than the patio it is on. I feed it on loads of
chicken poo that it loves.

Can I shorten it and when?

The "trunk" of the banana tree - which is actually an oversized
herb, merely consists of compressed old leaves. It performs no
real function in terms of keeping the tree alive - nutrients
and water don't travel up the "trunk". Each new year's growth
grows up through the middle of these old leaves - rather like
a perennial leek would grow. The entire trunk can be cut back
as hard as you like, but at the end of the growing season.
If you did it now, you'd kill off this years growth as well.
The only danger then might be increased exposure to frost
from above , (although presumably frost danger to the roots
through the pot would be the same ) and so maybe the potted
plant could be moved to a frost free site - the garage etc
over winter.


michael adams

....

michael adams wrote:
"Bookworm" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I have a bannana plant (Musa Bajoo) in a pot that has grown so long
that it is taller than the patio it is on. I feed it on loads of
chicken poo that it loves.

Can I shorten it and when?

The "trunk" of the banana tree - which is actually an oversized
herb, merely consists of compressed old leaves. It performs no
real function in terms of keeping the tree alive - nutrients
and water don't travel up the "trunk". Each new year's growth
grows up through the middle of these old leaves - rather like
a perennial leek would grow. The entire trunk can be cut back
as hard as you like, but at the end of the growing season.
If you did it now, you'd kill off this years growth as well.
The only danger then might be increased exposure to frost
from above , (although presumably frost danger to the roots
through the pot would be the same ) and so maybe the potted
plant could be moved to a frost free site - the garage etc
over winter.


michael adams

...
Many thanks, very interesting. I shall cut it back in the autumn, wrap
the pot in bubble wrap and take it into my cold greenhouse where it
usually overwinters. Is this OK?

"Bookworm" wrote in message
ups.com...
michael adams wrote:
"Bookworm" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I have a bannana plant (Musa Bajoo) in a pot that has grown so long
that it is taller than the patio it is on. I feed it on loads of
chicken poo that it loves.

Can I shorten it and when?

The "trunk" of the banana tree - which is actually an oversized
herb, merely consists of compressed old leaves. It performs no
real function in terms of keeping the tree alive - nutrients
and water don't travel up the "trunk". Each new year's growth
grows up through the middle of these old leaves - rather like
a perennial leek would grow. The entire trunk can be cut back
as hard as you like, but at the end of the growing season.
If you did it now, you'd kill off this years growth as well.
The only danger then might be increased exposure to frost
from above , (although presumably frost danger to the roots
through the pot would be the same ) and so maybe the potted
plant could be moved to a frost free site - the garage etc
over winter.


michael adams

...
Many thanks, very interesting. I shall cut it back in the autumn, wrap
the pot in bubble wrap and take it into my cold greenhouse where it
usually overwinters. Is this OK?

....

Apparently musa bajoo is the hardiest of the bananas. However the
tops are said to be less frost hardy than the roots. Which makes
the survival of the foliage in a cold greehouse over winter up until
now a bit of a surprise. What sometimes happens is that the foliage
is hit by a particularly hard frost and dies off, the owner panics,
and is then relieved to be told that it only needs cutting back, to
regrow again from the base the next year. Although the roots are supposed
to be fairly frost hardy, no harm will be done by wrapping the plant
in bubblewrap as you suggest.


michael adams

....

"Bookworm" wrote in message
ups.com...
michael adams wrote:
"Bookworm" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I have a bannana plant (Musa Bajoo) in a pot that has grown so long
that it is taller than the patio it is on. I feed it on loads of
chicken poo that it loves.

Can I shorten it and when?

The "trunk" of the banana tree - which is actually an oversized
herb, merely consists of compressed old leaves. It performs no
real function in terms of keeping the tree alive - nutrients
and water don't travel up the "trunk". Each new year's growth
grows up through the middle of these old leaves - rather like
a perennial leek would grow. The entire trunk can be cut back
as hard as you like, but at the end of the growing season.
If you did it now, you'd kill off this years growth as well.
The only danger then might be increased exposure to frost
from above , (although presumably frost danger to the roots
through the pot would be the same ) and so maybe the potted
plant could be moved to a frost free site - the garage etc
over winter.


michael adams

...
Many thanks, very interesting. I shall cut it back in the autumn, wrap
the pot in bubble wrap and take it into my cold greenhouse where it
usually overwinters. Is this OK?

I was going to ask how you overwintered it but that answers my question.
If you have successfully produced such a large plant it seems a shame to cut
it back. Could you plant it in the garden (if you have one). It only needs a
small amount of protection to keep the leaves and trunk OK during the
winter. Even if the frost cuts it back it should resprout.

"michael adams" wrote in message
...

"Bookworm" wrote in message
ups.com...
michael adams wrote:
"Bookworm" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I have a bannana plant (Musa Bajoo) in a pot that has grown so long
that it is taller than the patio it is on. I feed it on loads of
chicken poo that it loves.

Can I shorten it and when?

The "trunk" of the banana tree - which is actually an oversized
herb, merely consists of compressed old leaves. It performs no
real function in terms of keeping the tree alive - nutrients
and water don't travel up the "trunk". Each new year's growth
grows up through the middle of these old leaves - rather like
a perennial leek would grow. The entire trunk can be cut back
as hard as you like, but at the end of the growing season.
If you did it now, you'd kill off this years growth as well.
The only danger then might be increased exposure to frost
from above , (although presumably frost danger to the roots
through the pot would be the same ) and so maybe the potted
plant could be moved to a frost free site - the garage etc
over winter.


michael adams

...
Many thanks, very interesting. I shall cut it back in the autumn, wrap
the pot in bubble wrap and take it into my cold greenhouse where it
usually overwinters. Is this OK?

...

Apparently musa bajoo is the hardiest of the bananas. However the
tops are said to be less frost hardy than the roots. Which makes
the survival of the foliage in a cold greehouse over winter up until
now a bit of a surprise. What sometimes happens is that the foliage
is hit by a particularly hard frost and dies off, the owner panics,
and is then relieved to be told that it only needs cutting back, to
regrow again from the base the next year. Although the roots are supposed
to be fairly frost hardy, no harm will be done by wrapping the plant
in bubblewrap as you suggest.


michael adams

...
Various sites are now proclaiming that sikkimensis is as hardy if not
hardier than Bajoo. I turn these to mush each year with absolutely no
regrowth. Too wet I believe. Very nice as an annual.
Bajoo lived in the garage without protection but lost the leaves and started
growing again a few weeks ago.
If you happen to have a spare Musa Ae Ae or two I will swop for a small
Bajoo:-)

I was going to ask how you overwintered it but that answers my question.
If you have successfully produced such a large plant it seems a shame to cut
it back. Could you plant it in the garden (if you have one). It only needs a
small amount of protection to keep the leaves and trunk OK during the
winter. Even if the frost cuts it back it should resprout.

It overwinters quite happily in a cold greenhouse with Bubble Wrap
fitted inside walls and roof. Also Plant & pot is bubble wrapped and
fleeced. I usually cut off the leaves down to about 1" of the stem
befoe I do this. By spring the first leaf is usually trying to burst
through the wrap. The reason for cutting it shorter is that it has
grown out of proportion to the other 'jungle plants' that I grow on the
shady patio.

Rupert (W.Yorkshire) wrote:
"michael adams" wrote in message


michael adams

...
Various sites are now proclaiming that sikkimensis is as hardy if not
hardier than Bajoo. I turn these to mush each year with absolutely no
regrowth. Too wet I believe. Very nice as an annual.
Bajoo lived in the garage without protection but lost the leaves and started
growing again a few weeks ago.
If you happen to have a spare Musa Ae Ae or two I will swop for a small
Bajoo:-)

Could the 'turning to mush' be because you are in W Yorks and I am in
South Worcs?

"Bookworm" wrote in message
ups.com...
Rupert (W.Yorkshire) wrote:
"michael adams" wrote in message


michael adams

...
Various sites are now proclaiming that sikkimensis is as hardy if not
hardier than Bajoo. I turn these to mush each year with absolutely no
regrowth. Too wet I believe. Very nice as an annual.
Bajoo lived in the garage without protection but lost the leaves and
started
growing again a few weeks ago.
If you happen to have a spare Musa Ae Ae or two I will swop for a small
Bajoo:-)

Could the 'turning to mush' be because you are in W Yorks and I am in
South Worcs?

Perhaps, but it's more likely that my attempts at protection have been very
half hearted. In summer their location gets a bit dry due to shading by very
big deciduous trees, so lots of mushy compost in the planting hole. Of
course the same area gets sodden in winter and the once soggy compost
becomes a liquid slurry and rot sets in.
I will try harder in future.

There appear to be several forms of sikkimensis sloshing around; some
quite hardy, but others are very tender. I feel that unless you live
in the southern half of the country, it is definitely one to bring
under cover in winter. This past winter has tested a lot of plants and
it would seem that many have lost much if not all of their top growth.
Down here, all forms are hardy enough not to require any protection at
all and in mild winters retain some or most of their leaves. Go
further east along to Southampton or beyond and plants need the
'trunks' wrapped.

I planted mine as a 2ft. seedling in March 2000 and now it is a clump
of about a dozen 'trunks' varying in height from 3 - 10ft. excluding
leaves. By July the whole lot is up to 20ft. or more high. It resumes
growth about 2 weeks later than basjoo, but soon catches up. I prefer
this to basjoo since the leaves are less prone to wind-split, but on
the debit side they present more wind resistance and it is not unknown
for the 'trunks' to snap during violent summer storms.

Rupert, Ae Ae is a very tricky variety to grow well and extremely hard
to get. Much better to covet the variegated form of basjoo, but that
almost never becomes available Bookworm, the way I grow these
(basjoo, sikkimensis & balbisiana) is to provide a lofty canopy over
shade-loving 'understorey' palms (Chamaedorea, Arenga etc.). You can't
really stop them growing tall because that is the way they grow.

If you need something that remains at around 6ft. or so, maybe you
should try Musella lasicarpa instead. It really seems to do well in a
pot, appears to be happiest when root-bound and makes a very handsome,
tight clump of large, blue green leaves. After several years, the
oldest growth will flower spectacularly - rather like a giant, golden
yellow artichoke, which lasts for months on end. A big tub of this is
far easier to protect in winter since the 'trunks' never grow much more
than 3ft. high.

"DavePoole Torquay" wrote in message
oups.com...
There appear to be several forms of sikkimensis sloshing around; some
quite hardy, but others are very tender. I feel that unless you live
in the southern half of the country, it is definitely one to bring
under cover in winter. This past winter has tested a lot of plants and
it would seem that many have lost much if not all of their top growth.
Down here, all forms are hardy enough not to require any protection at
all and in mild winters retain some or most of their leaves. Go
further east along to Southampton or beyond and plants need the
'trunks' wrapped.

I planted mine as a 2ft. seedling in March 2000 and now it is a clump
of about a dozen 'trunks' varying in height from 3 - 10ft. excluding
leaves. By July the whole lot is up to 20ft. or more high. It resumes
growth about 2 weeks later than basjoo, but soon catches up. I prefer
this to basjoo since the leaves are less prone to wind-split, but on
the debit side they present more wind resistance and it is not unknown
for the 'trunks' to snap during violent summer storms.

Rupert, Ae Ae is a very tricky variety to grow well and extremely hard
to get. Much better to covet the variegated form of basjoo, but that
almost never becomes available Bookworm, the way I grow these
(basjoo, sikkimensis & balbisiana) is to provide a lofty canopy over
shade-loving 'understorey' palms (Chamaedorea, Arenga etc.). You can't
really stop them growing tall because that is the way they grow.

If you need something that remains at around 6ft. or so, maybe you
should try Musella lasicarpa instead. It really seems to do well in a
pot, appears to be happiest when root-bound and makes a very handsome,
tight clump of large, blue green leaves. After several years, the
oldest growth will flower spectacularly - rather like a giant, golden
yellow artichoke, which lasts for months on end. A big tub of this is
far easier to protect in winter since the 'trunks' never grow much more
than 3ft. high.

Thanks for that very useful info. The sikkimensis offered and grown from
seed do seem to have enormous variations in colour from bog standard green
to startling variations.
I was of course jesting about Ae Ae but if you have a few dozen spare I will
swop for a pot of wild garlic :-)

"DavePoole Torquay" wrote in message
oups.com...
There appear to be several forms of sikkimensis sloshing around; some
quite hardy, but others are very tender. I feel that unless you live
in the southern half of the country, it is definitely one to bring
under cover in winter. This past winter has tested a lot of plants and
it would seem that many have lost much if not all of their top growth.
Down here, all forms are hardy enough not to require any protection at
all and in mild winters retain some or most of their leaves. Go
further east along to Southampton or beyond and plants need the
'trunks' wrapped.

I planted mine as a 2ft. seedling in March 2000 and now it is a clump
of about a dozen 'trunks' varying in height from 3 - 10ft. excluding
leaves. By July the whole lot is up to 20ft. or more high. It resumes
growth about 2 weeks later than basjoo, but soon catches up. I prefer
this to basjoo since the leaves are less prone to wind-split, but on
the debit side they present more wind resistance and it is not unknown
for the 'trunks' to snap during violent summer storms.

Rupert, Ae Ae is a very tricky variety to grow well and extremely hard
to get. Much better to covet the variegated form of basjoo, but that
almost never becomes available Bookworm, the way I grow these
(basjoo, sikkimensis & balbisiana) is to provide a lofty canopy over
shade-loving 'understorey' palms (Chamaedorea, Arenga etc.). You can't
really stop them growing tall because that is the way they grow.

If you need something that remains at around 6ft. or so, maybe you
should try Musella lasicarpa instead. It really seems to do well in a
pot, appears to be happiest when root-bound and makes a very handsome,
tight clump of large, blue green leaves. After several years, the
oldest growth will flower spectacularly - rather like a giant, golden
yellow artichoke, which lasts for months on end. A big tub of this is
far easier to protect in winter since the 'trunks' never grow much more
than 3ft. high.

a little trivia...

Whilst living in Malaya/Malaysia many moons ago, we had hundreds of
bananas(variety unknown) growing nearby. They have suckers which shoot up
next to the adult plant & after a few years of producung bananas & leaves
for the local market, the adult plant is hacked down by machete & gets fed
to pigs. The suckers will now take over & normally a strong plant around
chest height will be chosen & the rest hacked off but you will often see new
growth from the adult plant or suckers coming up the following years. This
practice continues year in year out. Soil type normally rich but free
draining is important. I might be mistaken but i recall sometimes, the
locals dig up the suckers & hack it off the main plant & take it off to be
planted or potted for sale in the markets. The flowers or bulb are also a
delicacy, often stewed in curry just like ginger flowers.

I've not grown bananas here but i would imagine if your pot is big enough &
with the correct conditions, suckers will emerge after flowering. If yours
does.. you may try hacking off the main plant which i believe will enable
the shoots to grow faster. Regarding keeping them over winter... i've seen a
15' high banana growing in a walled garden along lake montreux in
Switzerland, planted in, not pot bound. I've been told they wrap it up over
winter. hope this helps.

DavePoole Torquay wrote:
snip If you need something that remains at around 6ft. or so, maybe
you
should try Musella lasicarpa instead. It really seems to do well in a
pot, appears to be happiest when root-bound and makes a very handsome,
tight clump of large, blue green leaves. After several years, the
oldest growth will flower spectacularly - rather like a giant, golden
yellow artichoke, which lasts for months on end. A big tub of this is
far easier to protect in winter since the 'trunks' never grow much more
than 3ft. high.

As always, David hits the spot. I found this site with some
interesting exotics seeds on it and some are recommended either for
planting in pots or for growing as annuals. They sell the Musella David
recommends: http://www.jungleseeds.co.uk/
--
Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon