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allotments
Hello,
I would like to grow my own fruit and veg, so I enquired about allotments. There are two sites locally both on hills. One has quite a gradient and the other is less so. Would I be right to choose the flatter of the two? Does the slope make a different to plants? Both plots have been neglected and are very overgrown. The chap who showed me around tried to reassure me that it wasn't as bad as it looks. He suggested I hire a strimmer to cut back the growth and a rotavator to dig the soil. Is this a good idea or should I check he doesn't own the hire shop ;) I've only ever used an electric strimmer on grass on the lawn before; never a petrol one and I've never used a rotavator. Are they worth hiring or picking up second hand? How big is a rotavator; will it fit in a standard car, else how will I get it to the allotment? Thanks. |
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Following up to Fred wrote:
He suggested I hire a strimmer to cut back the growth and a rotavator to dig the soil. Is this a good idea or should I check he doesn't own the hire shop ;) as you will want to cut grass on a regular basis i would buy a honda 4stroke (good make) brush cutter/strimmer, you can use this to cut the grass long term. Do wear the protective gear. Nobody likes a dog turd in the face (well most dont). Om my site some swear by rotovator and other say useless! pro: no backbreaking work, you just repeat until the weeds give up. anti: rotovator cuts couch grass roots into little segments that all then grow! BTW which way does the slope run (south facing would be nice)? I would choose one over the other if it looked less vulnerable to vandalism (non proximity to estate type housing). -- Mike Remove clothing to email |
allotments
"Fred" wrote I would like to grow my own fruit and veg, so I enquired about allotments. There are two sites locally both on hills. One has quite a gradient and the other is less so. Would I be right to choose the flatter of the two? Does the slope make a different to plants? Both plots have been neglected and are very overgrown. The chap who showed me around tried to reassure me that it wasn't as bad as it looks. He suggested I hire a strimmer to cut back the growth and a rotavator to dig the soil. Is this a good idea or should I check he doesn't own the hire shop ;) I've only ever used an electric strimmer on grass on the lawn before; never a petrol one and I've never used a rotavator. Are they worth hiring or picking up second hand? How big is a rotavator; will it fit in a standard car, else how will I get it to the allotment? The problem with a slope is which direction does it slope. If it's towards the sun, south, then your ground will heat up quicker in the spring and plants will get a good start. The down side is that in the summer you might have to water more. If it has a serious slope you might find a thin poor soil at the top and a quagmire at the bottom. If it slopes away from the sun give it a miss. Yes, strimming is what needs to be done, however the rotovating depends on what weeds are there. If you rotovate with couch grass or bindweed roots in the soil you will simply spread it all over. Personally I strimmed mine and then used Glysophate weedkiller twice to kill all weeds including perennial ones and then rotovated to get a crop the first year. I then hand dug the space left every time a crop was harvested so after the first year all of the plot had been hand dug and any bricks/stones/glass etc had been removed. Unfortunately Glysophate only works on green leaves so it will not work this time of the year. A petrol strimmer is a completely different animal to an electric one, ensure you wear steel toecap boots, strong trousers, gloves and essential is a full face mask. Those stones hurt when they fly up into your face and despite a full mask I have had a stone cut my ear. Make sure nobody else is anywhere near too, and explain to anyone around that they must keep away. In my experience second-hand strimmers are normally worn out, rotovators are often little used so check condition and if possible buy a good make (e.g. Honda) where spares are available. Rotovators are big and heavy, few are small enough to fit in a car and few are light enough to lift. I lift mine in and out of my Defender van but I'm 6ft and have been described as built like a brick ...... :-) As the years go on I might have to resort to a trailer I can push it onto. If you only have a car it might be worth considering a trailer anyway, muddy tools can soon ruin a car's interior no matter how careful you are, I speak from experience which is why I now have a proper allotment vehicle too. -- Regards Bob Hobden 17mls W. of London.UK |
allotments
"Sacha" wrote in message . uk... On 10/1/08 15:14, in article , "Bob Hobden" wrote: snip Rotovators are big and heavy, few are small enough to fit in a car and few are light enough to lift. I lift mine in and out of my Defender van but I'm 6ft and have been described as built like a brick ...... :-) As the years go on I might have to resort to a trailer I can push it onto. If you only have a car it might be worth considering a trailer anyway, muddy tools can soon ruin a car's interior no matter how careful you are, I speak from experience which is why I now have a proper allotment vehicle too. Excuse me for butting into this to ask a question. A friend of mine would like to know if it's illegal to sell the produce you have grown on an allotment. She's American and an admirer of Alan Coren. She read a story of his about a child who found his parents selling their produce and ratting on them! -- Sacha I worked with a chap when I lived in Leicester who had 3 Allotments with a friend and ran it as a commercial venture. Mike -- www.rnshipmates.co.uk for ALL Royal Navy Association matters www.rneba.org.uk. The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association. 'THE' Association to find your ex-Greenie mess mates. www.iowtours.com for all ex-Service Reunions. More being added regularly "Navy Days" Portsmouth 25th - 27th July 2008. RN Shipmates will be there. |
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"Sacha" wrote in message . uk... On 10/1/08 15:14, in article , "Bob Hobden" wrote: snip Rotovators are big and heavy, few are small enough to fit in a car and few are light enough to lift. I lift mine in and out of my Defender van but I'm 6ft and have been described as built like a brick ...... :-) As the years go on I might have to resort to a trailer I can push it onto. If you only have a car it might be worth considering a trailer anyway, muddy tools can soon ruin a car's interior no matter how careful you are, I speak from experience which is why I now have a proper allotment vehicle too. Excuse me for butting into this to ask a question. A friend of mine would like to know if it's illegal to sell the produce you have grown on an allotment. She's American and an admirer of Alan Coren. She read a story of his about a child who found his parents selling their produce and ratting on them! -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk It's not illegal but it may be contrary to your contract with the landlord. Usually they don't give a monkeys as long as you don't run your allotment as a business |
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Following up to Sacha wrote:
A friend of mine would like to know if it's illegal to sell the produce you have grown on an allotment. IIRC corretly i can sell a limited amount of stuff (gluts i suppose), it probably varies between councils, the trend is away from limitations as its less of a facility for the poor to grow food and more of a keep fit and eat a healthy 5 a day diet. I just read my tenancy conditions, nothing about selling stuff. That restaurant that sources only within the M25 was looking at allotments for sources! -- Mike Remove clothing to email |
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On 10/1/08 15:38, in article ,
"Robert (Plymouth)" remove my other hobby to reply wrote: "Sacha" wrote in message . uk... On 10/1/08 15:14, in article , "Bob Hobden" wrote: snip Rotovators are big and heavy, few are small enough to fit in a car and few are light enough to lift. I lift mine in and out of my Defender van but I'm 6ft and have been described as built like a brick ...... :-) As the years go on I might have to resort to a trailer I can push it onto. If you only have a car it might be worth considering a trailer anyway, muddy tools can soon ruin a car's interior no matter how careful you are, I speak from experience which is why I now have a proper allotment vehicle too. Excuse me for butting into this to ask a question. A friend of mine would like to know if it's illegal to sell the produce you have grown on an allotment. She's American and an admirer of Alan Coren. She read a story of his about a child who found his parents selling their produce and ratting on them! -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk It's not illegal but it may be contrary to your contract with the landlord. Usually they don't give a monkeys as long as you don't run your allotment as a business Thanks Robert. That explains it - different rules and regs in different places. -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon (remove weeds from address) 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
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"Sacha" wrote after... "Bob Hobden" replied snip Rotovators are big and heavy, few are small enough to fit in a car and few are light enough to lift. I lift mine in and out of my Defender van but I'm 6ft and have been described as built like a brick ...... :-) As the years go on I might have to resort to a trailer I can push it onto. If you only have a car it might be worth considering a trailer anyway, muddy tools can soon ruin a car's interior no matter how careful you are, I speak from experience which is why I now have a proper allotment vehicle too. Excuse me for butting into this to ask a question. A friend of mine would like to know if it's illegal to sell the produce you have grown on an allotment. She's American and an admirer of Alan Coren. She read a story of his about a child who found his parents selling their produce and ratting on them! Depends on the local Council, ours allows you to sell your excess produce and a friend of mine does just that to fund his seed purchase but they are strict about plots not being used for commercial gain and have thrown people off sites when they have found out they used the plots for growing plants for their garden design firm. Ours do check plots out during the year to see what's being grown and how well the plots are tended. -- Regards Bob Hobden 17mls W. of London.UK |
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On Thu, 10 Jan 2008 15:14:58 -0000, "Bob Hobden"
wrote: Personally I strimmed mine and then used Glysophate weedkiller twice to kill all weeds including perennial ones Thanks. I'll check which way south is. I don't know anything about weed killer. Is this one safe to use in soil that you want to grow fruit and veg. ? |
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"Fred" wrote in message ... Hello, I would like to grow my own fruit and veg, so I enquired about allotments. There are two sites locally both on hills. One has quite a gradient and the other is less so. Would I be right to choose the flatter of the two? Does the slope make a different to plants? You're not in Disley by any chance Fred? My sister has a plot there and it's at 45deg! She's using raised beds to terrace it to make it a bit flatter. It would drain something rotten in prolonged dry periods, but this is unlikely to be an issue in Disley, known locally as Drizzly Disley. :-)) Steve |
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"Fred" wrote after... "Bob Hobden" replied Personally I strimmed mine and then used Glysophate weedkiller twice to kill all weeds including perennial ones Thanks. I'll check which way south is. I don't know anything about weed killer. Is this one safe to use in soil that you want to grow fruit and veg. ? Supposed to be, yes. I would not use it again on my present plot but it does do a good job if starting from a wild patch and if I had to start another new allotment from such a state I would certainly use it again. Couch grass is one thing it eliminates that is very difficult to remove any other way. -- Regards Bob Hobden 17mls W. of London.UK |
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On 10 Jan, 18:18, Fred wrote:
Thanks. I'll check which way south is. Indeed - and if you are planning fruit trees, think of their eventual height (and therefore root diameter) so that they don't cast a long shadow on your crops and don't take most of your soil allocated to your vegs. Also it depends what your crops are. I grow fruit bushes in partial shade and find they crop much better, are sweeter and firmer and last longer. Same for the strawbs and leaf vegs. I'm sure you've made a plan on paper. Checking your soil would be an idea too so that you start on a good footing. Spending time observing the plot, for wind and sun paterns is a great start. The weeds also will indicates the type of soil you have. The slope is often an advantage for fruit trees, as described by Bob - the worry there would be frost pockets and wind breaks. You must find your orientations before organising your planting if you're on a slope even a slight one. I don't know anything about weed killer. Is this one safe to use in soil that you want to grow fruit and veg. ? I am absolutely against this. I would also check with your allotment committee and your plot neighbours if this is allowed and if they don't mind. (I'd also add that if you are planning to sell your vegetables as asked previously, you need to check your council, as that is not allowed unless specified otherwise, and get a licence if your allotment is not certified organic by the FSC, because food stuff might be contaminated with chemicals and metals etc.). We have 120 plots and we are all organic. We don't sell our surplus but share it, which is much nicer. I would also not use a rotovator for the reason given by Mike. I've successfully cleared many plots for years using elbow grease. It has brought me closer to the ground, to the soil and in this way I've found lots of information about the soil I'm about to work with. I don't think the local Robin will come next to your petrol smoke chucking rotovator to help itself to the bugs you've unearthed of it. It is perhaps a slower process but in the end it really pays up. Isn't this what gardening is all about after all? Finally, your plot must be at its maximum lenght of 10 rods!? Therefore there's very little need to go to the expense of using petrol machinery. |
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In article , Bob Hobden
writes Couch grass is one thing it eliminates that is very difficult to remove any other way. Not forgetting ground elder which is also horrendous to clear and easily spread. -- Janet Tweedy Dalmatian Telegraph http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk |
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"Jeff Layman" wrote Does any council insist on chemical-free gardening for an allotment holder? Can an allotment committee insist on it even if the council doesn't? Ours uses weedkiller on all unused plots. It's not a problem and ensures you have clean ground to start with. Anything else is just a backbreaking fight against perennial weeds which you may not win. Glysophate is not a pernicious chemical and quickly breaks down on contact with soil. -- Regards Bob Hobden 17mls W. of London.UK |
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On 11 Jan, 14:23, "Jeff Layman" wrote:
Does any council insist on chemical-free gardening for an allotment holder? Not that I know of, sadly. It is something many are talking about at the moment. Also isn't it the whole point of having an allotment so that we can grow our food stuff free of chemicals?! I know of 3 allotments in Greater Manchester that started from scratch in the last 3 years and which are entirely organic, by general rule, one of which is from Stockport Council via the work of the WEA. It's usually easier to do this from the starting point of creating the plots. You will also find that all 'community plot' within an allotment are all organic even if the whole allotment is not (which makes little sense to me). This is on the basis that local school/ organisation/retirement homes/health group etc. are using it. Can an allotment committee insist on it even if the council doesn't? Off course! Now, having said that it's only a directive, not a rule, yet. We have discovered that there's still 2 plots using insecticides on ours but no weed killers. Any new plot let out is targetted and given advice with clearing the plot, pampered and given lots of help. I can't remember anyone trying glyphosate - not on a 10 rods plot. At one time you could tell who used weed killers, their front row of flowers didn't interest much wildlife and their leeks where the biggest ones, but not necessarily the tastiest :o) |
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wrote:
On 11 Jan, 14:23, "Jeff Layman" wrote: Does any council insist on chemical-free gardening for an allotment holder? Not that I know of, sadly. It is something many are talking about at the moment. Also isn't it the whole point of having an allotment so that we can grow our food stuff free of chemicals?! The reason I asked the question was that I thought your original posting was misleading (but didn't know for certain), and you have confirmed it. Quote: "I would also check with your allotment committee and your plot neighbours if this is allowed and if they don't mind.". Using "If this is allowed" makes it sound official, which is isn't. You really shouldn't make your prejudices about chemicals appear to represent official - or even unofficial - policy. I have absolutely no objection to you believing in organic cultivation, and following those principles. And as you ask, no, the point of having an allotment is to grow whatever the holder wants, how he or she wants (within reason), without affecting the other allotment holders. It's usually easier to do this from the starting point of creating the plots. You will also find that all 'community plot' within an allotment are all organic even if the whole allotment is not (which makes little sense to me). I am afraid that an "all organic" allotment makes little sense to me. I don't have an allotment, and in my garden I use as few chemicals as possible, but I can't see the point in having whole plants destroyed and doing nothing about it. Actually, that's not quite true - I give up trying to grow plants where chemicals have failed to control the pest because they are ineffective or the pest has grown resistant (eg in this area, anything which is edible to the lily beetle). Can an allotment committee insist on it even if the council doesn't? Off course! Now, having said that it's only a directive, not a rule, yet. Long may that be the case. We have discovered that there's still 2 plots using insecticides on ours but no weed killers. Any new plot let out is targetted and given advice with clearing the plot, pampered and given lots of help. And what if they ignore the advice, and start using insecticides? I can't remember anyone trying glyphosate - not on a 10 rods plot. You are obviously very confused about glyphosate. As soon as it hits the ground, it becomes inactive. It is the bane of organic gardeners because they can't find anything it does other than what it is supposed to - kill plants it is sprayed on. You may want to read the conclusion in this article: http://www.pan-uk.org/pestnews/actives/glyphosa.htm I'm referencing that particular article because it's not exactly from a group too keen on pesticide use, and can't be accused of bias. At one time you could tell who used weed killers, their front row of flowers didn't interest much wildlife and their leeks where the biggest ones, but not necessarily the tastiest :o) I can only think that you are just imagining that "their front row of flowers didn't interest much wildlife". If the glyphosate had hit those plants there wouldn't have been anything around for the wildlife to take an interest in, and if it hadn't those plants would have been no different from any other. Did you do a comparative wildlife survey with flowers in organic allotment plots? Did _you_ try the leeks? What was their taste like? -- Jeff (cut "thetape" to reply) |
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On 11 Jan, 18:09, "Jeff Layman" wrote:
wrote: The reason I asked the question was that I thought your original posting was misleading (but didn't know for certain), and you have confirmed it. Quote: "I would also check with your allotment committee and your plot neighbours if this is allowed and if they don't mind.". Using "If this is allowed" makes it sound official, which is isn't. You really shouldn't make your prejudices about chemicals appear to represent official - or even unofficial - policy. You will find than the majority usually takes the day. In this case, if by committee there's an agreement, it will become the rule. It's a bit strong to think my opinions are prejudices. It's what I beleive in. On a 10 rods plot there's no need for chemical use. Give me a good reason for this. I have absolutely no objection to you believing in organic cultivation, and following those principles. And as you ask, no, the point of having an allotment is to grow whatever the holder wants, how he or she wants (within reason), without affecting the other allotment holders. As Sacha's article in the time points: "There are also concerns with what is used in growing food. Allotment gardeners tend not to use chemicals at all and when they do, they at least can control it." And that's what I meant indeed. It is a choice - but if I can make change the views of those who do use chemicals, I'll do it in everyway I can and make our allotments entirely organic, and across the country if I can do that too! I am afraid that an "all organic" allotment makes little sense to me. I don't have an allotment Well that's perhaps our misunderstanding. , and in my garden I use as few chemicals as possible, but I can't see the point in having whole plants destroyed and doing nothing about it. Organic gardening is not 'not doing nothing about it'. I suggest you learn a bit more about it before attempting to convince me that it doesn't work. Actually, that's not quite true - I give up trying to grow plants where chemicals have failed to control the pest because they are ineffective or the pest has grown resistant (eg in this area, anything which is edible to the lily beetle). So you've used something stronger or have you given up eating vegetables all together?! It's precisely why you should not use chemicals in the first place. There's a reason why you are failing and I would, if you give me more information about the crop you have attempted to grow, show you that you can grow absolutely anything and control the pests and weeds without using chemicals. And what if they ignore the advice, and start using insecticides? It's a shame. But like you, they'll manage to saturate their garden where it will take a long time to re-establish the ecosystem. You are obviously very confused about glyphosate. As soon as it hits the ground, it becomes inactive. It is the bane of organic gardeners because they can't find anything it does other than what it is supposed to - kill plants it is sprayed on. My problem with it is the instant killing of everything without any understanding of why weeds are there in the first place. Glyphosate takes with it habitats, without habitats you don't have insects, without insects you don't have birds - that is my problem Jeff, not a the fact that it is a chemical per say, but the destruction of environments which support insects on which your, YOUR food stuff depends on. You are in effect removing what benefits your garden the most for the sake of easthetic and nothing else. Easthetic! Now that's sad, don't you think? You could just pull them up, dry them and compost them or use them as mulch. I can only think that you are just imagining that "their front row of flowers didn't interest much wildlife". No, they come to admire my rows full of colours and life with scabious, geums, nettles, aquilegias, echinaceas... as opposed to the single huge dahlias proped up with canes and strings sandwiches between two badly pruned rose bushes that they think is the ultimate in flower growing! But that's a matter of taste perhaps. If the glyphosate had hit those plants there wouldn't have been anything around for the wildlife to take an interest in, Indeed. You are right. There's nothing there beside two rose bushes and some dahlias with fancy tags on to keep them upright. and if it hadn't those plants would have been no different from any other. I think allowing a range of plants to grow is a good thing for any garden. Think about it. If you just nuke everything, you'll take out the good with the bad. Doing things by hand, and I stress here on an allotment plot and not acres, is a good thing. By the time you've finished tackling persistant weeds, it would have benefited another part of your garden by providing an habitat. That's the cycle that you need in a garden. That's gardening. Did you do a comparative wildlife survey with flowers in organic allotment plots? Not on allotments but I did one last year on 4 acres of urban land derelict for 10 years. It was an eye opener. Did _you_ try the leeks? What was their taste like? Off course, I'll try anything! And I prefer the smaller ones. The big ones were not as sweet and one leek was sufficient for one soup in my house! A range of plants, food crops and a mix of fruit bushes is all an allotment needs - not rows upon rows of spuds and massive leeks, which are exactly what those plots have, with two roses and dahlias on strings. But that the plot holder's choice. Isn't it. |
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On 11 Jan, 19:45, Mike.... wrote:
on our site you do your own thing. It's not always the case. On some lotties you're not allowed to do fires. On others you can't keep chickens. Now someone somewhere at some point has decided this. How? |
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On 11/1/08 19:36, in article
, " wrote: On 11 Jan, 18:09, "Jeff Layman" wrote: wrote: The reason I asked the question was that I thought your original posting was misleading (but didn't know for certain), and you have confirmed it. Quote: "I would also check with your allotment committee and your plot neighbours if this is allowed and if they don't mind.". Using "If this is allowed" makes it sound official, which is isn't. You really shouldn't make your prejudices about chemicals appear to represent official - or even unofficial - policy. You will find than the majority usually takes the day. In this case, if by committee there's an agreement, it will become the rule. It's a bit strong to think my opinions are prejudices. It's what I beleive in. On a 10 rods plot there's no need for chemical use. Give me a good reason for this. I have absolutely no objection to you believing in organic cultivation, and following those principles. And as you ask, no, the point of having an allotment is to grow whatever the holder wants, how he or she wants (within reason), without affecting the other allotment holders. As Sacha's article in the time points: "There are also concerns with what is used in growing food. Allotment gardeners tend not to use chemicals at all and when they do, they at least can control it." And that's what I meant indeed. It is a choice - but if I can make change the views of those who do use chemicals, I'll do it in everyway I can and make our allotments entirely organic, and across the country if I can do that too! snip Do not use my words to support you, if you please. You are quoting out of context and it is indeed ironic that if you use me to support you, you must indeed be desperate to impose your views on others. -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon (remove weeds from address) 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
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On 11 Jan, 22:30, Sacha wrote:
Do not use my words to support you, if you please. You are quoting out of context and it is indeed ironic that if you use me to support you, you must indeed be desperate to impose your views on others. Its from the article you've posted on ALLOTMENT GET HIP - THE TIMES. I took the quote from what the article said which you've posted on that thread. Off course you didn't read all of it. But that's what it said ... Allotments get hip by Devika Bhat "It's a great break from a hectic career. I like that it's something totally different to what you do at work. It's a full task on its own, tending the soil, and it's very rewarding to see the fruits of your labour. It's good exercise too, with the digging and weeding. And taste-wise you can definitely tell the difference." The social aspect poses another appeal. "We've had a cheese and wine night at the allotment and we're planning a big meal for our friends, using the produce," said Miss McGuffie. Insiders say the trend testifies to the growing desire for healthier and eco-friendly living. Mr Stokes said: "What we are seeing is that more people want access to fresh food - not things picked before being ripe which has travelled 1,300 miles across the world. "There are also concerns with what is used in growing food. Allotment gardeners tend not to use chemicals at all and when they do, they at least can control it." |
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On 12/1/08 00:40, in article
, " wrote: On 11 Jan, 22:30, Sacha wrote: Do not use my words to support you, if you please. You are quoting out of context and it is indeed ironic that if you use me to support you, you must indeed be desperate to impose your views on others. Its from the article you've posted on ALLOTMENT GET HIP - THE TIMES. I took the quote from what the article said which you've posted on that thread. Off course you didn't read all of it. But that's what it said ... snip I repeat, do not use me to support yourself. You are being deceitful in claiming that an article I posted are *my* words, as if I somehow endorse your extreme behaviour. I want nothing to do with you and I will expose any sham of yours that involves me. -- Sacha http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon (remove weeds from address) 'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.' |
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On 12 Jan, 09:53, Sacha wrote:
I repeat, do not use me to support yourself. *You are being deceitful in claiming that an article I posted are *my* words, Good god! That isn't what I wrote and if you think I did or it looked as if I did, then I apologise. |
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On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 14:47:22 -0000, "Bob Hobden"
wrote: "Jeff Layman" wrote Does any council insist on chemical-free gardening for an allotment holder? Can an allotment committee insist on it even if the council doesn't? Ours uses weedkiller on all unused plots. It's not a problem and ensures you have clean ground to start with. Anything else is just a backbreaking fight against perennial weeds which you may not win. Glysophate is not a pernicious chemical and quickly breaks down on contact with soil. Are there a lot of unused plots? I've read my council has a waiting list of 400 (on an allotment total of 600 - which doesn't sound like a lot) -- http://www.orderonlinepickupinstore.co.uk Ah fetch it yourself if you can't wait for delivery http://www.freedeliveryuk.co.uk Or get it delivered for free |
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"Mogga" wrote Are there a lot of unused plots? I've read my council has a waiting list of 400 (on an allotment total of 600 - which doesn't sound like a lot) Not now, our old site was closed down and we have been promised a new smaller site eventually on part of the land but we moved anyway to another site that was about half full which has since filled up so only about 3 plots are now vacant. Although rumour has it that they are taken too, just not turned up to do anything yet. -- Regards Bob Hobden |
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On 12 Jan, 17:23, "Jeff Layman" wrote:
Of course it doesn't work on anything other than small scale (and I am not fully convinced of that either. *But then again, I am happy to admit that pouring unlimited chemicals on plants isn't sensible either. *The best way is a balance between the two, but zealots like you can't see that). Have you heard of biomimicry or bionics? Now that's on large scale production and commercial. My local veg/fruit shop supply thousands of people - all the food stuff is organic. No, I eat lots of commercially-grown vegetables. *I avoid eating organic vegetables as much as possible because I believe it would be hypocritical to eat them How very very strange. I wonder how many more people feel like you do. Is it only principals, like you don't want to eat the food zealots like us eat, or is it a financial reason as well. Because if it's the former, you've got some cheek to call me prejudiced! Glyphosate doesn't kill insects. *It kills plants. Yes, it kills the habitat of the insects and therefore will kill the insects. It goes hand in hand. Why can't you see this? And if you can show me the practical difference of using glyphosate, and you and your mates digging up a whole plot and removing all the plants in order to clear things such as couch and ground elder roots, I'd love to hear it. As I explain, it is not all at once - it's a delicate balance. You would, by hand, leave habitats lying on the ground, giving chance for insects to get out and move on. And I do not remove everything - I leave lots of wild flowers, ragged robin, common melilot, vetch, willow herb, bugloss etc. Often it is pretty and I know my plot/garden benefits from it. This is not what you were saying. *Again, you are twisting the facts to suit yourself. *You can't compare a row of dahlias and a row of mixed flowers whether or not each are organic or chemically treated. You must compare like with like. *But that wouldn't satisfy your prejudice, would it? The point I am making is the single variety of flowers with all wild flowers nuked for easthetic reasons. That is the problem I have with some garden, in this example a front row of flowers with lots of bear earth, without a single weed, and huge dahlias with nothing else. That is what chemicals do to a flower bed. I prefer seeing a variety of flowers. That is *my* preference. |
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On 14 Jan, 09:14, "Amethyst Deceiver"
wrote: These days, more people are growing organically, but that's a trend, not a tradition. I really can't let you say this Linz. For thousands of years we have eaten our food grown entirely organically. Chemicals were introduced in the 50s. Please, think about what you are saying. |
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wrote in message
... On 14 Jan, 09:14, "Amethyst Deceiver" wrote: These days, more people are growing organically, but that's a trend, not a tradition. I really can't let you say this Linz. For thousands of years we have eaten our food grown entirely organically. Chemicals were introduced in the 50s. Please, think about what you are saying. not true, you are parroting a canard oft used by the organic lobby http://www.pollutionissues.com/Na-Ph/Pesticides.html The concept of pesticides is not new. Around 1000 B.C.E. Homer referred to the use of sulfur to fumigate homes and by 900 C.E. the Chinese were using arsenic to control garden pests. Although major pest outbreaks have occurred, such as potato blight (Phytopthora infestans), which destroyed most potato crops in Ireland during the mid-nineteenth century, not until later that century were pesticides such as arsenic, pyrethrum, lime sulfur, and mercuric chloride used. Between this period and World War II, inorganic and biological substances, such as Paris green, lead arsenate, calcium arsenate, selenium compounds, lime-sulfur, pyrethrum, thiram, mercury, copper sulfate, derris, and nicotine were used, but the amounts and frequency of use were limited, and most pest control employed cultural methods such as rotations, tillage, and manipulation of sowing dates. After World War II the use of pesticides mushroomed, and there are currently more than 1,600 pesticides available and about 4.4 million tons used annually, at a cost of more than $20 billion. The United States accounts for more than 25 percent of this market. pk |
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"PK" wrote in message ... wrote in message ... On 14 Jan, 09:14, "Amethyst Deceiver" wrote: These days, more people are growing organically, but that's a trend, not a tradition. I really can't let you say this Linz. For thousands of years we have eaten our food grown entirely organically. Chemicals were introduced in the 50s. Please, think about what you are saying. not true, you are parroting a canard oft used by the organic lobby As I understand it, the "dig for victory" booklet during the war recommended loads of chemicals. I'm not taking sides here. I don't use chemicals, it's because I'm too cheap :-) Steve |
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On 14 Jan, 12:22, "shazzbat"
wrote: As I understand it, the "dig for victory" booklet during the war recommended loads of chemicals. Off course. Even the text posted explains this! I'm not taking sides here. I don't use chemicals, it's because I'm too cheap :-) Good. I love cheap people ;o) |
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On 14 Jan, 16:19, "Amethyst Deceiver"
wrote: Helene, you can't stop me. I've said it. yawn |
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wrote in message ... On 14 Jan, 16:19, "Amethyst Deceiver" wrote: Helene, you can't stop me. I've said it. yawn Tired at THIS time of day? What time did you go to bed? Mike -- www.rneba.org.uk. The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association. 'THE' Association to find your ex-Greenie mess mates. www.iowtours.com for all ex-Service Reunions. More being added regularly |
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On Jan 14, 6:01*pm, K wrote:
Chemical fertilisers were introduced before the 50s. Hi Kay. Yes, the triple superphosphate was relaunched after the war, hence why we think it's when it all started when it fact they had started experimenting with the acid rocks in the early 1900s. But beside from blood, bones, fish fertilisers, there weren't any chemicals before 1889 when ICI started grinding the condiments to make these chemicals. So yes, I might be wrong - but in all respect there was no use of chemicals before this. And truthfully I don't care. What I care now is that we stop using them which we will eventually no doubt and I will do anything I can to tell people that they don't need them. I am in a lot of position to do just that and that is what I do :o) |
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... On Jan 14, 6:01 pm, K wrote: Chemical fertilisers were introduced before the 50s. So yes, I might be wrong - but in all respect there was no use of chemicals before this. Yes you a http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/B1121.htm Historical Developments with Pesticides Pesticides are not new. Ancient Romans killed insect pests by burning sulfur and controlled weeds with salt. In the 1600s, ants were con-trolled with mixtures of honey and arsenic. By the late nineteenth century, U.S. farmers were using copper acetoarsenite (Paris green), calcium arsenate, nicotine sulfate and sulfur to control insect pests in field crops, but results were often unsatisfactory because of the primitive chemistry and application methods pk |
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