On 28 Jan 2008 11:33:51 GMT, Huge wrote:

Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like
temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year.

I think he lives, like us, in an old solid stone house. Admitedly we are
exposed and at 1,400'. We used to get through about 4,000l year. It's
lower now maybe 3,500 or even a bit less since the really drafty windows
were replace with double glazing. Daytime temp is 18.5C on the stat going
up to 20 for the evening, heating is off over night.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On 28 Jan 2008 11:33:51 GMT, Huge wrote:

Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like
temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year.

I think he lives, like us, in an old solid stone house.

Nope. Brand new timber framed.

To latest building regs.

However two open fireplaces and underflooor vents to feed em take a lot
of heat out when they are not burning.

In las with 6 bed house of similar size, but less well insulated and
rick, burn even more. I am getting by on 3500-400 liters a year..they
need 4000-5000. Even with open fires as well.


I'd say the house is equivalent to three 'modern' 4 bed houses stuck
together.



Admitedly we are
exposed and at 1,400'. We used to get through about 4,000l year. It's
lower now maybe 3,500 or even a bit less since the really drafty windows
were replace with double glazing. Daytime temp is 18.5C on the stat going
up to 20 for the evening, heating is off over night.


similar temps here. Except we have given up on the UFH downstairs
altogether till Sunvic send a replacement stat, so thats down around
14-15c from heat bleed from the Aga only.

If we live in the kitchen office and bedroom ONLY thats about 1/3rd of
the oil burned.

However two open fireplaces and underflooor vents to feed em take a lot of
heat out when they are not burning.

im thinking of fitting underfloor vents to my woodburners,
which should stop draughts coming in through doors and windows,
but
arent they meant to be able to be closed when the fires not on,
and the chimney cleverly muffled,
so there is a lot less draughts and heat loss?

--

[george]

~ [g] ~
~ ~
~ 07970 378 572 ~
~ www.dicegeorge.com ~
~ (c)2008 ~
~ ~

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On 28 Jan 2008 11:33:51 GMT, Huge wrote:

Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like
temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year.

I think he lives, like us, in an old solid stone house.

Nope. Brand new timber framed.

To latest building regs.

However two open fireplaces and underflooor vents to feed em take a lot of
heat out when they are not burning.

In las with 6 bed house of similar size, but less well insulated and rick,
burn even more. I am getting by on 3500-400 liters a year..they need
4000-5000. Even with open fires as well.


I'd say the house is equivalent to three 'modern' 4 bed houses stuck
together.



Admitedly we are exposed and at 1,400'. We used to get through about
4,000l year. It's lower now maybe 3,500 or even a bit less since the
really drafty windows were replace with double glazing. Daytime temp is
18.5C on the stat going up to 20 for the evening, heating is off over
night.


similar temps here. Except we have given up on the UFH downstairs
altogether till Sunvic send a replacement stat, so thats down around
14-15c from heat bleed from the Aga only.

If we live in the kitchen office and bedroom ONLY thats about 1/3rd of the
oil burned.

In article ,
says...
However two open fireplaces and underflooor vents to feed em take a lot of
heat out when they are not burning.

im thinking of fitting underfloor vents to my woodburners,
which should stop draughts coming in through doors and windows,
but
arent they meant to be able to be closed when the fires not on,
and the chimney cleverly muffled,
so there is a lot less draughts and heat loss?


I am not sure that they are "meant to be" but mine have a rotating brass
wheel that makes them open or shut, I put them in when I was renevating
the Chimney but with the wood burning (which like most has doors) I have
never had them open as there are no drafts
--
Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall
www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and
Lapageria rosea

George (dicegeorge) wrote:
However two open fireplaces and underflooor vents to feed em take a lot of
heat out when they are not burning.

im thinking of fitting underfloor vents to my woodburners,
which should stop draughts coming in through doors and windows,
but
arent they meant to be able to be closed when the fires not on,
and the chimney cleverly muffled,
so there is a lot less draughts and heat loss?


Depends No one says you have to. Ours gets plant pots over em in summer..;-)

Plugging chimneys is fine, if you CAN.

On 28/1/08 13:35, in article
, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On 28 Jan 2008 11:33:51 GMT, Huge wrote:

Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like
temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year.

I think he lives, like us, in an old solid stone house. Admitedly we are
exposed and at 1,400'. We used to get through about 4,000l year. It's
lower now maybe 3,500 or even a bit less since the really drafty windows
were replace with double glazing. Daytime temp is 18.5C on the stat going
up to 20 for the evening, heating is off over night.

We get buffeted by winds, though temperatures don't fall horribly low
over-winter, usually! But this house is Victorian and every interior wall
is solid, keeping the house very warm. The windows, OTOH, are those diamond
paned jobs and are not remotely well insulated. We can't use double glazing
and it would anyway look hideous. But interlined curtains and those nice
solid walls keep us very snug.
--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
(remove weeds from address)
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

In message , Sacha
writes

We get buffeted by winds, though temperatures don't fall horribly low
over-winter, usually! But this house is Victorian and every interior wall
is solid, keeping the house very warm. The windows, OTOH, are those diamond
paned jobs and are not remotely well insulated. We can't use double glazing
and it would anyway look hideous. But interlined curtains and those nice
solid walls keep us very snug.

Why ever not?

We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames.

Mind you, 25mm of Kingspan and boarding or render over 4" studwork walls
is not a recipe for low cost heating.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

On 28/1/08 18:41, in article , "Tim
Lamb" wrote:

In message , Sacha
writes

We get buffeted by winds, though temperatures don't fall horribly low
over-winter, usually! But this house is Victorian and every interior wall
is solid, keeping the house very warm. The windows, OTOH, are those diamond
paned jobs and are not remotely well insulated. We can't use double glazing
and it would anyway look hideous. But interlined curtains and those nice
solid walls keep us very snug.

Why ever not?

We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames.


Stone mullion windows, Grade II Listed building - think Victorian gothic.
We're having problems figuring out ways to put fly screens at the windows
and think they'll have to be magnetic to fit the iron frames. In summer,
I'd give my eye teeth for quarter lights in the windows, all of which are
casement! The downstairs windows are quite large, as are some of the
upstairs ones. Double glazing would have to be fixed into the wood beside
the mullions and would look appalling. On the downstairs windows there are
interior, folding shutters which would look awful and be ruined if we tried
to fit double glazing. However, we would not be allowed to fit it and would
probably be in trouble if the house police happened to check it out.


--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
(remove weeds from address)
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

In message , Sacha
writes
On 28/1/08 18:41, in article , "Tim
Lamb" wrote:

Why ever not?

We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames.


Stone mullion windows, Grade II Listed building - think Victorian gothic.
We're having problems figuring out ways to put fly screens at the windows
and think they'll have to be magnetic to fit the iron frames. In summer,
I'd give my eye teeth for quarter lights in the windows, all of which are
casement! The downstairs windows are quite large, as are some of the
upstairs ones. Double glazing would have to be fixed into the wood beside
the mullions and would look appalling. On the downstairs windows there are
interior, folding shutters which would look awful and be ruined if we tried
to fit double glazing. However, we would not be allowed to fit it and would
probably be in trouble if the house police happened to check it out.

Ah! I see.

Have you asked what might be approved?

Although Victorian and with leaded lights, this house is well outside
any conservation area and did not attract any attention when we
re-built. We stuck to the casement style and opted for diamond lead work
on the outer sheet.

Glazing regulations have changed since 1995 and the gap between panes
made significantly wider. I think our inserts are only 6mm (14mm
altogether) making the installation indistinguishable from the original
draughty diamonds. You do get different reflection effects from
Pilkington K glass which might upset the purist.

regards



--
Tim Lamb

On 29/1/08 09:29, in article , "Tim
Lamb" wrote:

In message , Sacha
writes
On 28/1/08 18:41, in article , "Tim
Lamb" wrote:

Why ever not?

We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames.


Stone mullion windows, Grade II Listed building - think Victorian gothic.
We're having problems figuring out ways to put fly screens at the windows
and think they'll have to be magnetic to fit the iron frames. In summer,
I'd give my eye teeth for quarter lights in the windows, all of which are
casement! The downstairs windows are quite large, as are some of the
upstairs ones. Double glazing would have to be fixed into the wood beside
the mullions and would look appalling. On the downstairs windows there are
interior, folding shutters which would look awful and be ruined if we tried
to fit double glazing. However, we would not be allowed to fit it and would
probably be in trouble if the house police happened to check it out.

Ah! I see.

Have you asked what might be approved?

No, we haven't or not specifically about that. But my husband was given to
understand some years ago that no such alterations or additions would be
permitted.

Although Victorian and with leaded lights, this house is well outside
any conservation area and did not attract any attention when we
re-built. We stuck to the casement style and opted for diamond lead work
on the outer sheet.

I don't think we're in a particular conservation area. It's just that this
house was the vicarage and was built by Miss Champernowne of Dartington
Hall, as was the church. She gave the land and paid for the building. I
believe she later paid for the building of the CoE school and the School
House for the headmaster. The architect for church and house was John
Loughborough Pearson and it's probably that which has attracted attention,
rather than the overall area, if you see what I mean. That's not to say
that it's not a beautiful place with some outstanding houses in it but it's
my guess it's the peculiarity of ours that probably led to the Listing.
Much of the farming here is on Church Commission land and when my husband
bought the field behind us to make a car park, it hadn't changed hands for
1000 years!

Glazing regulations have changed since 1995 and the gap between panes
made significantly wider. I think our inserts are only 6mm (14mm
altogether) making the installation indistinguishable from the original
draughty diamonds. You do get different reflection effects from
Pilkington K glass which might upset the purist.

I think that would be a minor irritant, yes. But the depth of the chamfered
mullions on the inside of the windows is such that I think it would be 8 or
9" before a fixing could be made onto the wood and we certainly wouldn't
consider having any drilling into the stone. Double glazing would be
terribly obtrusive here, I think.
--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
(remove weeds from address)
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

"Sacha" wrote in message
. uk...
On 29/1/08 09:29, in article ,
"Tim
Lamb" wrote:

In message , Sacha
writes
On 28/1/08 18:41, in article ,
"Tim
Lamb" wrote:

Why ever not?

We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames.


Stone mullion windows, Grade II Listed building - think Victorian
gothic.
We're having problems figuring out ways to put fly screens at the
windows
and think they'll have to be magnetic to fit the iron frames. In
summer,
I'd give my eye teeth for quarter lights in the windows, all of which
are
casement! The downstairs windows are quite large, as are some of the
upstairs ones. Double glazing would have to be fixed into the wood
beside
the mullions and would look appalling. On the downstairs windows there
are
interior, folding shutters which would look awful and be ruined if we
tried
to fit double glazing. However, we would not be allowed to fit it and
would
probably be in trouble if the house police happened to check it out.

Ah! I see.

Have you asked what might be approved?

No, we haven't or not specifically about that. But my husband was given
to
understand some years ago that no such alterations or additions would be
permitted.

Although Victorian and with leaded lights, this house is well outside
any conservation area and did not attract any attention when we
re-built. We stuck to the casement style and opted for diamond lead work
on the outer sheet.

I don't think we're in a particular conservation area. It's just that
this
house was the vicarage and was built by Miss Champernowne of Dartington
Hall, as was the church. She gave the land and paid for the building. I
believe she later paid for the building of the CoE school and the School
House for the headmaster. The architect for church and house was John
Loughborough Pearson and it's probably that which has attracted attention,
rather than the overall area, if you see what I mean. That's not to say
that it's not a beautiful place with some outstanding houses in it but
it's
my guess it's the peculiarity of ours that probably led to the Listing.
Much of the farming here is on Church Commission land and when my husband
bought the field behind us to make a car park, it hadn't changed hands for
1000 years!

Glazing regulations have changed since 1995 and the gap between panes
made significantly wider. I think our inserts are only 6mm (14mm
altogether) making the installation indistinguishable from the original
draughty diamonds. You do get different reflection effects from
Pilkington K glass which might upset the purist.

I think that would be a minor irritant, yes. But the depth of the
chamfered
mullions on the inside of the windows is such that I think it would be 8
or
9" before a fixing could be made onto the wood and we certainly wouldn't
consider having any drilling into the stone. Double glazing would be
terribly obtrusive here, I think.
--
Sacha

Plastics by Post Ltd http://www.plasticsbypost.net/ Glazing Materials

Translucent Acrylic Sheeting. Cut to size and fitted with Magnetherm
Adhesive tape. No drilling, nails or screws

Removable for cleaning windows

Undetectable so mind when you go to open a window.

Preserves ALL features without masking or obliterating them.

Been there. Done that in an old house. So I know it works.

Kind regards

Mike


--
www.rneba.org.uk. The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association to find your ex-Greenie mess mates.
www.iowtours.com for all ex-Service Reunions. More being added regularly
After a lot of trouble www.nsrafa.org is now up and running for the National
Service RAF man

Sacha wrote:
On 28/1/08 18:41, in article , "Tim
Lamb" wrote:

In message , Sacha
writes
We get buffeted by winds, though temperatures don't fall horribly low
over-winter, usually! But this house is Victorian and every interior wall
is solid, keeping the house very warm. The windows, OTOH, are those diamond
paned jobs and are not remotely well insulated. We can't use double glazing
and it would anyway look hideous. But interlined curtains and those nice
solid walls keep us very snug.
Why ever not?

We have simulated diamond double glazing in conventional timber frames.


Stone mullion windows, Grade II Listed building - think Victorian gothic.
We're having problems figuring out ways to put fly screens at the windows
and think they'll have to be magnetic to fit the iron frames. In summer,
I'd give my eye teeth for quarter lights in the windows, all of which are
casement! The downstairs windows are quite large, as are some of the
upstairs ones. Double glazing would have to be fixed into the wood beside
the mullions and would look appalling. On the downstairs windows there are
interior, folding shutters which would look awful and be ruined if we tried
to fit double glazing. However, we would not be allowed to fit it and would
probably be in trouble if the house police happened to check it out.


The loss through a few small SG windows is not great. I've got these
windows fitted to wooden frames..they were allowed on a new build..as
everywhere else was insulated to the nines.

On 2008-01-28 14:28:12 +0000, Huge said:

On 2008-01-28, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On 28 Jan 2008 11:33:51 GMT, Huge wrote:

Jesus, do you live in Siberia and have a prediliction for sauna-like
temperatures? 1000 litres of oil lasts us nearly a year.

I think he lives, like us, in an old solid stone house. Admitedly we are
exposed and at 1,400'. We used to get through about 4,000l year.

Grief.

OK, our house was built in 1977, has cavity wall insulation, double glazing
throughout and 1970's standard loft insulation. Just goes to show that
insulation is definitely worthwhile doing.

BTW, I've been thinking about adding more loft insulation. Would that be
worthwhile?

Yes, but you must install at least 2m. Dr. D. says so.