Hi,

Would love to have a go at grafting apple trees early next year. Can
any of the subscribers recommend a good easy to follow book I could
get for beginners.

Many Thanks.

Gary.

On Tue, 9 Dec 2008 08:47:03 -0800 (PST), Gary
wrote:

Hi,

Would love to have a go at grafting apple trees early next year. Can
any of the subscribers recommend a good easy to follow book I could
get for beginners.

Janet and John try Propogating?

*** Arf arf, runs away


--
®óñ© © ²°¹°-°²

On 9 Dec, 16:47, Gary wrote:
Hi,

Would love to have a go at grafting apple trees early next year. *Can
any of the subscribers recommend a good easy to follow book I could
get for beginners.

Many Thanks.

Gary.

A few steps above Janet & John - Why not go for the beesneez?
The Grafter's Handbook by RJ Garner.
I think it's probably out of print now . It went to many editions, any
of them will do for you (and they're all available on Amazon or ABE.
It is the standard work on the subject but easy for a beginner to
follow as well. The book also covers other essential aspects of
preparation and aftercare. You'll never need to look anywhere else for
info on the subject.
BTW - A long while ago there was a bit of discussion here about
suitable materials for tying grafts/buds. Easy stuff to get in
commercial quantities but a bit for amateur use - just about
impossible. Soooooooooo......... If you know someone who's had to have
physio for a broken arm etc. they may have some stuff called
'Theraband'. (It's a thin rubbery stuff about 6 inches wide and
they're usually given around a metre or so to help them bring sleepy
muscles back to life)
When they've done with it it loooks ideal when cut into suitable
strips. The yellow grade is best, the red is a bit too strong

On 10 Dec, 19:43, Rod wrote:
On 9 Dec, 16:47, Gary wrote:

Hi,

Would love to have a go at grafting apple trees early next year. *Can
any of the subscribers recommend a good easy to follow book I could
get for beginners.

Many Thanks.

Gary.

A few steps above Janet & John - Why not go for the beesneez?
The Grafter's Handbook *by RJ Garner.
I think it's probably out of print now . It went to many editions, any
of them will do for you (and they're all available on Amazon or ABE.
It is the standard work on the subject but easy for a beginner to
follow as well. The book also covers other essential aspects of
preparation and aftercare. You'll never need to look anywhere else for
info on the subject.
BTW - A long while ago there was a bit of discussion here about
suitable materials for tying grafts/buds. Easy stuff to get in
commercial quantities but a bit for amateur use - just about
impossible. Soooooooooo......... If you know someone who's had to have
physio for a broken arm etc. they may have some stuff called
'Theraband'. (It's a thin rubbery stuff about 6 inches wide and
they're usually given around a metre or so to help them bring sleepy
muscles back to life)
When they've done with it it loooks ideal when cut into suitable
strips. The yellow grade is best, the red is a bit too strong
Hi Rod,

Thanks for the information, had a look at that book and have just
ordered it !

From the reviews it seems to be just the ticket !

I have got my rootstocks in, so I will now have to wait for early next
year for the "scion grafting" and late Summer for the "bud grafting",
time enough to do some studying of course, Oh and I will also need
some luck !!!

Thanks once again.

Regards.

Gary.

On 11 Dec, 04:35, Gary wrote:
On 10 Dec, 19:43, Rod wrote:



On 9 Dec, 16:47, Gary wrote:

Hi,

Would love to have a go at grafting apple trees early next year. *Can
any of the subscribers recommend a good easy to follow book I could
get for beginners.

Many Thanks.

Gary.

A few steps above Janet & John - Why not go for the beesneez?
The Grafter's Handbook *by RJ Garner.
I think it's probably out of print now . It went to many editions, any
of them will do for you (and they're all available on Amazon or ABE.
It is the standard work on the subject but easy for a beginner to
follow as well. The book also covers other essential aspects of
preparation and aftercare. You'll never need to look anywhere else for
info on the subject.
BTW - A long while ago there was a bit of discussion here about
suitable materials for tying grafts/buds. Easy stuff to get in
commercial quantities but a bit for amateur use - just about
impossible. Soooooooooo......... If you know someone who's had to have
physio for a broken arm etc. they may have some stuff called
'Theraband'. (It's a thin rubbery stuff about 6 inches wide and
they're usually given around a metre or so to help them bring sleepy
muscles back to life)
When they've done with it it loooks ideal when cut into suitable
strips. The yellow grade is best, the red is a bit too strong

Hi Rod,

Thanks for the information, had a look at that book and have just
ordered it !

From the reviews it seems to be just the ticket !

I have got my rootstocks in, so I will now have to wait for early next
year for the "scion grafting" and late Summer for the "bud grafting",
time enough to do some studying of course, Oh and I will also need
some luck !!!

Thanks once again.

Regards.

Gary.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Gary,If you have only just planted your rootstocks this autumn,then
you will not be able to graft successfully this coming spring
(2009).Rootstocks need a full growing year before they are suitable
for grafting,so you should think about grafting your apples in March
2010.I have been grafting apple trees for about 15 years,and find that
the traditional advice of taking the scions in January and grafting in
April does not work as well as taking the scions late February,and
grafting late March/early April.In this way the scions do not have
time to dry out(especially if they are thin).It would be interesting
to hear of other experience on timing for grafting.Best of Luck,Michael

On 11 Dec, 10:13, michael wrote:
On 11 Dec, 04:35, Gary wrote:





On 10 Dec, 19:43, Rod wrote:

On 9 Dec, 16:47, Gary wrote:

Hi,

Would love to have a go at grafting apple trees early next year. *Can
any of the subscribers recommend a good easy to follow book I could
get for beginners.

Many Thanks.

Gary.

A few steps above Janet & John - Why not go for the beesneez?
The Grafter's Handbook *by RJ Garner.
I think it's probably out of print now . It went to many editions, any
of them will do for you (and they're all available on Amazon or ABE.
It is the standard work on the subject but easy for a beginner to
follow as well. The book also covers other essential aspects of
preparation and aftercare. You'll never need to look anywhere else for
info on the subject.
BTW - A long while ago there was a bit of discussion here about
suitable materials for tying grafts/buds. Easy stuff to get in
commercial quantities but a bit for amateur use - just about
impossible. Soooooooooo......... If you know someone who's had to have
physio for a broken arm etc. they may have some stuff called
'Theraband'. (It's a thin rubbery stuff about 6 inches wide and
they're usually given around a metre or so to help them bring sleepy
muscles back to life)
When they've done with it it loooks ideal when cut into suitable
strips. The yellow grade is best, the red is a bit too strong

Hi Rod,

Thanks for the information, had a look at that book and have just
ordered it !

From the reviews it seems to be just the ticket !

I have got my rootstocks in, so I will now have to wait for early next
year for the "scion grafting" and late Summer for the "bud grafting",
time enough to do some studying of course, Oh and I will also need
some luck !!!

Thanks once again.

Regards.

Gary.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Gary,If you have only just planted your rootstocks this autumn,then
you will not be able to graft successfully this coming spring
(2009).Rootstocks need a full growing year before they are suitable
for grafting,so you should think about grafting your apples in March
2010.I have been grafting apple trees for about 15 years,and find that
the traditional advice of taking the scions in January and grafting in
April does not work as well as taking the scions late February,and
grafting late March/early April.In this way the scions do not have
time to dry out(especially if they are thin).It would be interesting
to hear of other experience on timing for grafting.Best of Luck,Michael- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi Michael,

Aghhhh,

I only put the five MM106 Rootstocks in two weeks ago, with the long
and high root system (but still only 10mm twigs) I thought I could
graft about the time you suggest, March/early April but in 2009.

Might be asking questions the book may tell me, but, there is nothing
like asking in person people who are experienced, (which I appreciate)
If you take the scions in late February, how do you personally store
them and keep them fresh till late March/early April???

Will I be able to try bud grafting THIS Summer time (July'ish) ????

May as well, also trying to locate some M26 or M27 and have a go at
them, the more the merrier, can give some away for presents as pot
specimens if I am successful !!!

Sorry for the list of questions, but I am keen to know.

Many Many Thanks for your advice.

Regards

Gary

On 11 Dec, 13:19, Gary wrote:
On 11 Dec, 10:13, michael wrote:





On 11 Dec, 04:35, Gary wrote:

On 10 Dec, 19:43, Rod wrote:

On 9 Dec, 16:47, Gary wrote:

Hi,

Would love to have a go at grafting apple trees early next year. *Can
any of the subscribers recommend a good easy to follow book I could
get for beginners.

Many Thanks.

Gary.

A few steps above Janet & John - Why not go for the beesneez?
The Grafter's Handbook *by RJ Garner.
I think it's probably out of print now . It went to many editions, any
of them will do for you (and they're all available on Amazon or ABE..
It is the standard work on the subject but easy for a beginner to
follow as well. The book also covers other essential aspects of
preparation and aftercare. You'll never need to look anywhere else for
info on the subject.
BTW - A long while ago there was a bit of discussion here about
suitable materials for tying grafts/buds. Easy stuff to get in
commercial quantities but a bit for amateur use - just about
impossible. Soooooooooo......... If you know someone who's had to have
physio for a broken arm etc. they may have some stuff called
'Theraband'. (It's a thin rubbery stuff about 6 inches wide and
they're usually given around a metre or so to help them bring sleepy
muscles back to life)
When they've done with it it loooks ideal when cut into suitable
strips. The yellow grade is best, the red is a bit too strong

Hi Rod,

Thanks for the information, had a look at that book and have just
ordered it !

From the reviews it seems to be just the ticket !

I have got my rootstocks in, so I will now have to wait for early next
year for the "scion grafting" and late Summer for the "bud grafting",
time enough to do some studying of course, Oh and I will also need
some luck !!!

Thanks once again.

Regards.

Gary.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Gary,If you have only just planted your rootstocks this autumn,then
you will not be able to graft successfully this coming spring
(2009).Rootstocks need a full growing year before they are suitable
for grafting,so you should think about grafting your apples in March
2010.I have been grafting apple trees for about 15 years,and find that
the traditional advice of taking the scions in January and grafting in
April does not work as well as taking the scions late February,and
grafting late March/early April.In this way the scions do not have
time to dry out(especially if they are thin).It would be interesting
to hear of other experience on timing for grafting.Best of Luck,Michael- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi Michael,

Aghhhh,

I only put the five MM106 Rootstocks in two weeks ago, with the long
and high root system (but still only 10mm twigs) I thought I could
graft about the time you suggest, March/early April but in 2009.

Might be asking questions the book may tell me, but, there is nothing
like asking in person people who are experienced, (which I appreciate)
If you take the scions in late February, how do you personally store
them and keep them fresh till late March/early April???

Will I be able to try bud grafting THIS Summer time (July'ish) ????

May as well, also trying to locate some M26 or M27 and have a go at
them, the more the merrier, can give some away for presents as pot
specimens if I am successful !!!

Sorry for the list of questions, but I am keen to know.

Many Many Thanks for your advice.

Regards

Gary- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
I suggest chip budding (easiest method) in summer - read Garner on
selection of scion material. Any that fail can be grafted next winter.
A sharp clean knife is the best guarantor of success. Sharp means you
can dry shave your arm with it - if you cut yourself it's your fault
not mine ;~}

michael wrote:
.....
the traditional advice of taking the scions in January and grafting in
April does not work as well as taking the scions late February,and
grafting late March/early April.In this way the scions do not have
time to dry out(especially if they are thin).It would be interesting
to hear of other experience on timing for grafting.Best of Luck,Michael

I've done this too - scions cut late feb / early march and stored in the
bottom of the fridge, wrapped in polythene, untill needed.

"Gary" wrote in message


I have got my rootstocks in, so I will now have to wait for early next
year for the "scion grafting" and late Summer for the "bud grafting",
time enough to do some studying of course, Oh and I will also need
some luck !!!

You won't need any luck for scion grafting. It's a breeze.

On 12 Dec, 00:23, "FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote:
"Gary" wrote in message
I have got my rootstocks in, so I will now have to wait for early next
year for the "scion grafting" and late Summer for the "bud grafting",
time enough to do some studying of course, Oh and I will also need
some luck !!!

You won't need any luck for scion grafting. *It's a breeze.

Thanks to everyone, all your post has been both interesting and
helpful.

Regards

Gary

The message
from Gary contains these words:

I only put the five MM106 Rootstocks in two weeks ago, with the long
and high root system (but still only 10mm twigs) I thought I could
graft about the time you suggest, March/early April but in 2009.

Might be asking questions the book may tell me, but, there is nothing
like asking in person people who are experienced, (which I appreciate)
If you take the scions in late February, how do you personally store
them and keep them fresh till late March/early April???

Will I be able to try bud grafting THIS Summer time (July'ish) ????

May as well, also trying to locate some M26 or M27 and have a go at
them, the more the merrier, can give some away for presents as pot
specimens if I am successful !!!

Sorry for the list of questions, but I am keen to know.

Hum. You could try budding rather than grafting, which should be more
likely to be successful.

I haven't done any for more years than I like to contemplate (my
grandfather showed me when he was younger than I am now...) but from the
donor tree, remove a shield-shaped piece of bark with a lateral bud on
it, cut a 'T' slit where you want the new branch, peel back carefully
the flaps and insert the bark with bud.

There are good proprietary tapes for closing-up the graft these days, we
used raffia and beeswax in - er - 1953-ish.

--
Rusty
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