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Old 04-08-2014, 07:21 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Patio Roses ...and pots

Planning to grow a patio rose in a pot but a few questions arise.

What is the minimum suitable size pot (height, diameter) recommended or
volume of pot?
Also what typeof compost is most suitable? John Innes 3, or multi-purpose?
Will the soil need to be changed each year or can the same soil stay in the
pot for a few years?


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Old 05-08-2014, 02:01 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Posts: 2,165
Default Patio Roses ...and pots

On 04/08/2014 19:21, FrankB wrote:
Planning to grow a patio rose in a pot but a few questions arise.

What is the minimum suitable size pot (height, diameter) recommended or
volume of pot?
Also what typeof compost is most suitable? John Innes 3, or multi-purpose?
Will the soil need to be changed each year or can the same soil stay in the
pot for a few years?





The size of pot depends on the type and size of rose. A large shrub rose
or smaller climbing rose should be planted in a large, deep pot, say 18"
(45cm) diameter. (I wouldn't be happy putting a large climbing rose in
a pot). A small patio rose might get away with a 12" (30cm) diameter
pot for a season or so, but a slightly bigger pot for longer term.

JI3 would be suitable for a rose, although I always mix in some
multi-purpose to open it up. I wouldn't want to use just multi-purpose
(except perhaps for a patio rose) as there isn't enough weight to keep
the pot stable in wind. I'm sure you could also use a purpose-made Tree
and Shrub compost. The compost will contain enough fertiliser for
roughly 6 months. After that, the rose will be dependent on you for
food and, of course, water. If the rose becomes stressed, it will be
much more prone to black spot.

You can certainly leave the rose in the same compost for 2-3yrs, but it
is a good idea to 'top dress' the pot each spring. This simply means
scraping away the top layer of old compost, including any weeds, moss or
liverworts. Take care as you meet the uppermost roots. Finally, dress
the top of the pot with fresh compost to the same level as it was
before. If you use a dry feed, you can mix this with the compost as you
top dress. Otherwise, water with a rose fertiliser to settle the soil.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

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Old 05-08-2014, 04:54 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Posts: 65
Default Patio Roses ...and pots


"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 04/08/2014 19:21, FrankB wrote:
Planning to grow a patio rose in a pot but a few questions arise.

What is the minimum suitable size pot (height, diameter) recommended or
volume of pot?
Also what typeof compost is most suitable? John Innes 3, or

multi-purpose?
Will the soil need to be changed each year or can the same soil stay in

the
pot for a few years?





The size of pot depends on the type and size of rose. A large shrub rose
or smaller climbing rose should be planted in a large, deep pot, say 18"
(45cm) diameter. (I wouldn't be happy putting a large climbing rose in
a pot). A small patio rose might get away with a 12" (30cm) diameter
pot for a season or so, but a slightly bigger pot for longer term.

JI3 would be suitable for a rose, although I always mix in some
multi-purpose to open it up. I wouldn't want to use just multi-purpose
(except perhaps for a patio rose) as there isn't enough weight to keep
the pot stable in wind. I'm sure you could also use a purpose-made Tree
and Shrub compost. The compost will contain enough fertiliser for
roughly 6 months. After that, the rose will be dependent on you for
food and, of course, water. If the rose becomes stressed, it will be
much more prone to black spot.

You can certainly leave the rose in the same compost for 2-3yrs, but it
is a good idea to 'top dress' the pot each spring. This simply means
scraping away the top layer of old compost, including any weeds, moss or
liverworts. Take care as you meet the uppermost roots. Finally, dress
the top of the pot with fresh compost to the same level as it was
before. If you use a dry feed, you can mix this with the compost as you
top dress. Otherwise, water with a rose fertiliser to settle the soil.

Hi Spider,

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. It is going to be a patio rose, so not
the normal size bush rose or climbing rose. As far as fed is concerned I'll
stick to slow-relese rose fertiliser

I've seen some great plamters, terracotta and mock terracotta (plastic)
which look convincing. I've read that real terracotta can crack under frost
conditions. Is this so, because they are not cheap and if I can avoid that
problem with plastic ones it might ne a better idea to get one of the mock
terracotta ones?


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Old 05-08-2014, 06:40 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,165
Default Patio Roses ...and pots

On 05/08/2014 16:54, FrankB wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 04/08/2014 19:21, FrankB wrote:
Planning to grow a patio rose in a pot but a few questions arise.

What is the minimum suitable size pot (height, diameter) recommended or
volume of pot?
Also what typeof compost is most suitable? John Innes 3, or

multi-purpose?
Will the soil need to be changed each year or can the same soil stay in

the
pot for a few years?





The size of pot depends on the type and size of rose. A large shrub rose
or smaller climbing rose should be planted in a large, deep pot, say 18"
(45cm) diameter. (I wouldn't be happy putting a large climbing rose in
a pot). A small patio rose might get away with a 12" (30cm) diameter
pot for a season or so, but a slightly bigger pot for longer term.

JI3 would be suitable for a rose, although I always mix in some
multi-purpose to open it up. I wouldn't want to use just multi-purpose
(except perhaps for a patio rose) as there isn't enough weight to keep
the pot stable in wind. I'm sure you could also use a purpose-made Tree
and Shrub compost. The compost will contain enough fertiliser for
roughly 6 months. After that, the rose will be dependent on you for
food and, of course, water. If the rose becomes stressed, it will be
much more prone to black spot.

You can certainly leave the rose in the same compost for 2-3yrs, but it
is a good idea to 'top dress' the pot each spring. This simply means
scraping away the top layer of old compost, including any weeds, moss or
liverworts. Take care as you meet the uppermost roots. Finally, dress
the top of the pot with fresh compost to the same level as it was
before. If you use a dry feed, you can mix this with the compost as you
top dress. Otherwise, water with a rose fertiliser to settle the soil.

Hi Spider,

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. It is going to be a patio rose, so not
the normal size bush rose or climbing rose. As far as fed is concerned I'll
stick to slow-relese rose fertiliser

I've seen some great plamters, terracotta and mock terracotta (plastic)
which look convincing. I've read that real terracotta can crack under frost
conditions. Is this so, because they are not cheap and if I can avoid that
problem with plastic ones it might ne a better idea to get one of the mock
terracotta ones?





I use both, Frank, and so far have only lost really cheap (£1 from
supermarket) terracotta pots. It is possible to find quality
frost-resistant pots, but these are fairly expensive. You don't say
where you are, so I can't even begin to guess at your expected frost
levels. Some of the faux terracotta pots look great, so if that suits
your eye as well as your budget, then that's fine. Sometimes I plant
into plastic pots (they hold on to moisture better) then cover with an
attractive terracotta pot. The rose itself isn't too bothered about the
pot, so you can buy to suit your budget.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

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Old 05-08-2014, 08:19 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Posts: 65
Default Patio Roses ...and pots


"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 05/08/2014 16:54, FrankB wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 04/08/2014 19:21, FrankB wrote:
Planning to grow a patio rose in a pot but a few questions arise.

What is the minimum suitable size pot (height, diameter) recommended

or
volume of pot?
Also what typeof compost is most suitable? John Innes 3, or

multi-purpose?
Will the soil need to be changed each year or can the same soil stay

in
the
pot for a few years?





The size of pot depends on the type and size of rose. A large shrub

rose
or smaller climbing rose should be planted in a large, deep pot, say

18"
(45cm) diameter. (I wouldn't be happy putting a large climbing rose in
a pot). A small patio rose might get away with a 12" (30cm) diameter
pot for a season or so, but a slightly bigger pot for longer term.

JI3 would be suitable for a rose, although I always mix in some
multi-purpose to open it up. I wouldn't want to use just multi-purpose
(except perhaps for a patio rose) as there isn't enough weight to keep
the pot stable in wind. I'm sure you could also use a purpose-made

Tree
and Shrub compost. The compost will contain enough fertiliser for
roughly 6 months. After that, the rose will be dependent on you for
food and, of course, water. If the rose becomes stressed, it will be
much more prone to black spot.

You can certainly leave the rose in the same compost for 2-3yrs, but it
is a good idea to 'top dress' the pot each spring. This simply means
scraping away the top layer of old compost, including any weeds, moss

or
liverworts. Take care as you meet the uppermost roots. Finally, dress
the top of the pot with fresh compost to the same level as it was
before. If you use a dry feed, you can mix this with the compost as

you
top dress. Otherwise, water with a rose fertiliser to settle the soil.

Hi Spider,

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. It is going to be a patio rose, so

not
the normal size bush rose or climbing rose. As far as fed is concerned

I'll
stick to slow-relese rose fertiliser

I've seen some great plamters, terracotta and mock terracotta (plastic)
which look convincing. I've read that real terracotta can crack under

frost
conditions. Is this so, because they are not cheap and if I can avoid

that
problem with plastic ones it might ne a better idea to get one of the

mock
terracotta ones?





I use both, Frank, and so far have only lost really cheap (£1 from
supermarket) terracotta pots. It is possible to find quality
frost-resistant pots, but these are fairly expensive. You don't say
where you are, so I can't even begin to guess at your expected frost
levels. Some of the faux terracotta pots look great, so if that suits
your eye as well as your budget, then that's fine. Sometimes I plant
into plastic pots (they hold on to moisture better) then cover with an
attractive terracotta pot. The rose itself isn't too bothered about the
pot, so you can buy to suit your budget.

I'm near Watford.

A particular pot sold at B&Q really caught ny ete and seems excellent value.
Bit puzzled by the spec that says it only weighs only 8 kg, which I thought
was rather light for a terracotta pot of that size.

http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/garden...or_pots/Chess-
Round-Pot-Terracotta-Dia-37-cm-13588602




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Old 05-08-2014, 10:19 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,165
Default Patio Roses ...and pots

On 05/08/2014 20:19, FrankB wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 05/08/2014 16:54, FrankB wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 04/08/2014 19:21, FrankB wrote:
Planning to grow a patio rose in a pot but a few questions arise.

What is the minimum suitable size pot (height, diameter) recommended

or
volume of pot?
Also what typeof compost is most suitable? John Innes 3, or
multi-purpose?
Will the soil need to be changed each year or can the same soil stay

in
the
pot for a few years?





The size of pot depends on the type and size of rose. A large shrub

rose
or smaller climbing rose should be planted in a large, deep pot, say

18"
(45cm) diameter. (I wouldn't be happy putting a large climbing rose in
a pot). A small patio rose might get away with a 12" (30cm) diameter
pot for a season or so, but a slightly bigger pot for longer term.

JI3 would be suitable for a rose, although I always mix in some
multi-purpose to open it up. I wouldn't want to use just multi-purpose
(except perhaps for a patio rose) as there isn't enough weight to keep
the pot stable in wind. I'm sure you could also use a purpose-made

Tree
and Shrub compost. The compost will contain enough fertiliser for
roughly 6 months. After that, the rose will be dependent on you for
food and, of course, water. If the rose becomes stressed, it will be
much more prone to black spot.

You can certainly leave the rose in the same compost for 2-3yrs, but it
is a good idea to 'top dress' the pot each spring. This simply means
scraping away the top layer of old compost, including any weeds, moss

or
liverworts. Take care as you meet the uppermost roots. Finally, dress
the top of the pot with fresh compost to the same level as it was
before. If you use a dry feed, you can mix this with the compost as

you
top dress. Otherwise, water with a rose fertiliser to settle the soil.

Hi Spider,

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. It is going to be a patio rose, so

not
the normal size bush rose or climbing rose. As far as fed is concerned

I'll
stick to slow-relese rose fertiliser

I've seen some great plamters, terracotta and mock terracotta (plastic)
which look convincing. I've read that real terracotta can crack under

frost
conditions. Is this so, because they are not cheap and if I can avoid

that
problem with plastic ones it might ne a better idea to get one of the

mock
terracotta ones?





I use both, Frank, and so far have only lost really cheap (£1 from
supermarket) terracotta pots. It is possible to find quality
frost-resistant pots, but these are fairly expensive. You don't say
where you are, so I can't even begin to guess at your expected frost
levels. Some of the faux terracotta pots look great, so if that suits
your eye as well as your budget, then that's fine. Sometimes I plant
into plastic pots (they hold on to moisture better) then cover with an
attractive terracotta pot. The rose itself isn't too bothered about the
pot, so you can buy to suit your budget.

I'm near Watford.

A particular pot sold at B&Q really caught ny ete and seems excellent value.
Bit puzzled by the spec that says it only weighs only 8 kg, which I thought
was rather light for a terracotta pot of that size.

http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/garden...or_pots/Chess-
Round-Pot-Terracotta-Dia-37-cm-13588602





I got an error message with that link, but fiddled about a bit and think
I've seen the right pot. It is quite attractive and not a bad price. 8kg
isn't that light but, since I note it's unavailable to order online,
you'll have to go and heft it, anyway. Whilst there, check the size of
the drainage hole and ask a member of staff if it's frost resistant. At
that size, though, it would be no hardship to move it close to the house
when frost is threatened.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

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Old 10-08-2014, 08:40 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Posts: 65
Default Patio Roses ...and pots


"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 05/08/2014 20:19, FrankB wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 05/08/2014 16:54, FrankB wrote:
"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 04/08/2014 19:21, FrankB wrote:
Planning to grow a patio rose in a pot but a few questions arise.

What is the minimum suitable size pot (height, diameter) recommended

or
volume of pot?
Also what typeof compost is most suitable? John Innes 3, or
multi-purpose?
Will the soil need to be changed each year or can the same soil stay

in
the
pot for a few years?





The size of pot depends on the type and size of rose. A large shrub

rose
or smaller climbing rose should be planted in a large, deep pot, say

18"
(45cm) diameter. (I wouldn't be happy putting a large climbing rose

in
a pot). A small patio rose might get away with a 12" (30cm) diameter
pot for a season or so, but a slightly bigger pot for longer term.

JI3 would be suitable for a rose, although I always mix in some
multi-purpose to open it up. I wouldn't want to use just

multi-purpose
(except perhaps for a patio rose) as there isn't enough weight to

keep
the pot stable in wind. I'm sure you could also use a purpose-made

Tree
and Shrub compost. The compost will contain enough fertiliser for
roughly 6 months. After that, the rose will be dependent on you for
food and, of course, water. If the rose becomes stressed, it will be
much more prone to black spot.

You can certainly leave the rose in the same compost for 2-3yrs, but

it
is a good idea to 'top dress' the pot each spring. This simply means
scraping away the top layer of old compost, including any weeds, moss

or
liverworts. Take care as you meet the uppermost roots. Finally,

dress
the top of the pot with fresh compost to the same level as it was
before. If you use a dry feed, you can mix this with the compost as

you
top dress. Otherwise, water with a rose fertiliser to settle the

soil.

Hi Spider,

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. It is going to be a patio rose, so

not
the normal size bush rose or climbing rose. As far as fed is concerned

I'll
stick to slow-relese rose fertiliser

I've seen some great plamters, terracotta and mock terracotta

(plastic)
which look convincing. I've read that real terracotta can crack under

frost
conditions. Is this so, because they are not cheap and if I can avoid

that
problem with plastic ones it might ne a better idea to get one of the

mock
terracotta ones?





I use both, Frank, and so far have only lost really cheap (£1 from
supermarket) terracotta pots. It is possible to find quality
frost-resistant pots, but these are fairly expensive. You don't say
where you are, so I can't even begin to guess at your expected frost
levels. Some of the faux terracotta pots look great, so if that suits
your eye as well as your budget, then that's fine. Sometimes I plant
into plastic pots (they hold on to moisture better) then cover with an
attractive terracotta pot. The rose itself isn't too bothered about

the
pot, so you can buy to suit your budget.

I'm near Watford.

A particular pot sold at B&Q really caught ny ete and seems excellent

value.
Bit puzzled by the spec that says it only weighs only 8 kg, which I

thought
was rather light for a terracotta pot of that size.


http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/garden...or_pots/Chess-
Round-Pot-Terracotta-Dia-37-cm-13588602





I got an error message with that link, but fiddled about a bit and think
I've seen the right pot. It is quite attractive and not a bad price. 8kg
isn't that light but, since I note it's unavailable to order online,
you'll have to go and heft it, anyway. Whilst there, check the size of
the drainage hole and ask a member of staff if it's frost resistant. At
that size, though, it would be no hardship to move it close to the house
when frost is threatened.

Hi Spider.

Unfortunately the link won't work directly as my newreader has split it into
2 lines. If you copy the whole link and then paste it, Ctrl+V, into your
browser's address bar, then it works fine. You should see a Chess Terracotta
pot with patterned shells on the sufrace below the rim, which looks really
nice, but I suspect you've found it.

I'm not sure what the difference is between pot depth and height as I
thought they were the same thing, but there is a difference of some 9 cm
here which is nearly 4".


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Old 10-08-2014, 08:45 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Patio Roses ...and pots


"Chris Hogg" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 5 Aug 2014 20:19:25 +0100, "FrankB" wrote:

A particular pot sold at B&Q really caught ny ete and seems excellent

value.
Bit puzzled by the spec that says it only weighs only 8 kg, which I

thought
was rather light for a terracotta pot of that size.


http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/garden...oor_pots/Chess

-
Round-Pot-Terracotta-Dia-37-cm-13588602

But is it frost resistant, and are B&Q staff sufficiently
knowledgeable about such details as to be able to give you an informed
answer? Is it on the label?

In general terms, frost-proofness depends on the porosity of the pot
and its strength. A very porous pot absorbs water, and when that water
freezes, if the pot isn't strong enough to resist the expansion forces
as the water turns to ice, it cracks. Strength varies inversely with
porosity: high porosity = low strength. Also, high porosity = low
density and hence apparent lightness. Frost-proof pots may be fired to
a higher temperature than normal, or may have a different clay
composition; either can result in lower porosity, higher density,
higher strength and thus frost-proofness. I would be a little worried
about a pot that seemed light for its size. It would suggest to me a
rather porous and hence weak pot that would absorb water in the winter
and would crack when it froze.

But as Spider says, you can always move it to a frost-free area, or
wrap it well with fleece or bubble-wrap before the winter.

Thanks for the info


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