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Old 25-08-2014, 06:57 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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On 25/08/2014 17:35, David Hill wrote:
On 25/08/2014 14:03, Spider wrote:
On 24/08/2014 23:29, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 24/08/2014 20:29, Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The
planting medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the
forest bark one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory
orchid compost which has a high bark content. I also use clear
plastic pots. Although many believe this isn't essential, it does
mean the roots get some sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it is
also clearer when the plant needs repotting.

It is arguably better to pot on in Spring but, if a plant really needs
potting up, I believe it is better and kinder to pot up when needed.
I've never had a problem with an out-of-season potting up. Indeed, it
won't be long before I'll need to pot up about 10 of mine.

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.






When you pick up the compost, have a good feel at the bag so you know it
has a reasonable quantity of bark. There seem to be slightly different
grades, although this appears to be accidental since there is no grading
on the label. I bought a bag in a hurry a few years ago and there was
less bark than usual, much of it being coarse composted bark, and some
of my Phalaenopsis failed due to lack of drainage. This less
well-drained compost was suitable for my Cambrias and Paphiopedilums
(which don't hold onto water as well as Phals) so the remainder wasn't
wasted.

If you look at your Phalaenopsis roots, you will see they are quite
fleshy (they should be!) and this enables them to hold on to water in
the manner of a succulent, though not for so long. Many other orchids -
cambrias, burragenea(sp?), odontoglossums, oncidiums - have much finer
roots, so cannot store water for long. Paphiopedilums have fairly thick
roots and fall between the two. Looking at the roots gives you a
helpful guide to their watering regime. This will be useful to you when
you increase your stock (you will!).

Going back to Phals, it's worth noting that if the end of their fleshy
roots is reddish, this is a sign of stress.

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.


I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?



No, David, the cup of tea and digestives are for you, after you've
pampered your orhcids, that is.


All this talk of clear pots has me wondering, Half pint or Pint plastic
beer glasses with holes burned in should do the job quite well.
Any comments?
David @ a wet side of Swansea Bay




You may be joking, but I've used the smaller plastic tumblers with holes
pierced when I couldn't get a small enough clear orchid pot for keikis,
divisions or very small orchids. They're great short term, but too
brittle really for longer term or, indeed, for putting beer in - they
just split in my experience.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

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Old 25-08-2014, 10:56 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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On 25/08/2014 18:57, Spider wrote:

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.


I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?



No, David, the cup of tea and digestives are for you, after you've
pampered your orhcids, that is.


Sorry Spider I have re read your posting and see I have to let the
orchids settle first, then share the tea and biscuits with them.

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Old 26-08-2014, 04:27 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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On 25/08/2014 22:56, David Hill wrote:
On 25/08/2014 18:57, Spider wrote:

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff
half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.


I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?



No, David, the cup of tea and digestives are for you, after you've
pampered your orhcids, that is.


Sorry Spider I have re read your posting and see I have to let the
orchids settle first, then share the tea and biscuits with them.




Quite so, David. If they decline the biscuits, they are probably just
being polite, so scoff them yourself .. the biscuits, that is. Next
time offer them Butterfly buns (nearest I can get to Moth orchids!!).

Joking aside, I have a friend who gives her orchids tea (without milk)
when there's some left in the teapot. It stains the roots black, so it
seems to me that would stop them photosynthesising. That takes the biscuit!
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

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Old 28-08-2014, 11:57 AM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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On 25/08/2014 18:57, Spider wrote:
You may be joking, but I've used the smaller plastic tumblers with holes
pierced when I couldn't get a small enough clear orchid pot for keikis,
divisions or very small orchids.


Spider - speaking of keikis, you might recall that you advised me on the
two that I seemed to get last year.

I've been too scared to think of trying to separate them, so they are
still attached to the original old flower shoots, but now one of them
has flowered while in place. I'm sure that this is normal, but it
really pleased me.

You can see a couple of phone (ie, not very good) shots of it at
http://1drv.ms/1rBW2hv (a link to my OneDrive).

There are two old flowering shoots, both of which I cut partially back
after flowering - and both of which developed keikis. One of them now
has its own flowering shoot

Thanks again

--
regards andy

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Old 29-08-2014, 01:50 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Phalenopsis orchid

On 28/08/2014 11:57, News wrote:
On 25/08/2014 18:57, Spider wrote:
You may be joking, but I've used the smaller plastic tumblers with holes
pierced when I couldn't get a small enough clear orchid pot for keikis,
divisions or very small orchids.


Spider - speaking of keikis, you might recall that you advised me on the
two that I seemed to get last year.

I've been too scared to think of trying to separate them, so they are
still attached to the original old flower shoots, but now one of them
has flowered while in place. I'm sure that this is normal, but it
really pleased me.

You can see a couple of phone (ie, not very good) shots of it at
http://1drv.ms/1rBW2hv (a link to my OneDrive).

There are two old flowering shoots, both of which I cut partially back
after flowering - and both of which developed keikis. One of them now
has its own flowering shoot

Thanks again



Yes, I do remember, Andy. I'm glad they've done so well for you. It's
interesting to see your pics, not least because I've got a Phal that's
doing just the same!:~). It is a charming sight. However, when mine's
finished flowering, I shall remove the keikis from the parent and pot
them up. I'm sure they'd be happy attached to the parent in their
jungly wild habitat because they'll get plenty of humidity, but in a
home setting where the air is drier (and where central heating will soon
make that worse), there may be a danger of the roots drying out. They
may get enough moisture and nourishment from the parent plant, but I
want the parent to thrive and give me flowers, so I shall separate them
so they can grow in glorious isolation.

I do understand your nervousness about severing the connection. Live
with it while all three plants seem healthy, but separate them at any
sign of stress. You could, of course, try 'air layering'. Pack some
damp sphagnum moss around the keiki roots (with the help of cling film
or a plastic bag) and leave the young roots to grow on. You will then
be more confident about the separation. This is usually a very reliable
procedure (esp where you've got roots already), but probably not that
pretty, so you may want to 'rest' the plant in a less used room.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay



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