We just cut a new bed (triangular with sides 20 ft, 12 ft and 15 ft) where
once was lawn and would like to make the centrepiece a standard decorative
tree or praps a large shrub. but with plenty of space below for planting
out. summer bedding then over wintering annuals.

the ground is good quality sandy soil well drained to the point of being dry
most of the time - mid bedfordshire and with plenty of horse poo already
been added at the outset.

the feature specimin should be light in leaf and branch to give dappled
shade and top out at no more than 20 to 25 feet fully grown.

any ideas please?

rgds Ramon

Ramon A wrote:

We just cut a new bed (triangular with sides 20 ft, 12 ft and 15 ft) where
once was lawn and would like to make the centrepiece a standard decorative
tree or praps a large shrub. but with plenty of space below for planting
out. summer bedding then over wintering annuals.

the ground is good quality sandy soil well drained to the point of being dry
most of the time - mid bedfordshire and with plenty of horse poo already
been added at the outset.

the feature specimin should be light in leaf and branch to give dappled
shade and top out at no more than 20 to 25 feet fully grown.

any ideas please?

rgds Ramon

One of the native Whitebeams - you'll probably have to go to a
specialist as most garden centres normally supply Swedish Whitebeam,
even when they swear blind it is native. There are quite a wide variety
of microspecies, with a variety of leaf shapes and coloured berries of
various patterns. Slow growing but many stop at 15ft to 20 ft.
--
Larry Stoter

Ramon A wrote:

We just cut a new bed (triangular with sides 20 ft, 12 ft and 15 ft) where
once was lawn and would like to make the centrepiece a standard decorative
tree or praps a large shrub. but with plenty of space below for planting
out. summer bedding then over wintering annuals.

the ground is good quality sandy soil well drained to the point of being dry
most of the time - mid bedfordshire and with plenty of horse poo already
been added at the outset.

the feature specimin should be light in leaf and branch to give dappled
shade and top out at no more than 20 to 25 feet fully grown.

any ideas please?

rgds Ramon

One of the native Whitebeams - you'll probably have to go to a
specialist as most garden centres normally supply Swedish Whitebeam,
even when they swear blind it is native. There are quite a wide variety
of microspecies, with a variety of leaf shapes and coloured berries of
various patterns. Slow growing but many stop at 15ft to 20 ft.
--
Larry Stoter

If your garden is small in size, this may be a bad idea. The shade and
roots can become a big problem. Think more latterally and consider
something lower and more restricted in root than a tree.
Phormiums can be great: get a large specimen (I can do trade deals) that
will flower next year. These are very dramatic and will not dominate the
garden as dfar as light and roots are concerned.
Neil

"Ramon A" wrote in message
...
We just cut a new bed (triangular with sides 20 ft, 12 ft and 15 ft) where
once was lawn and would like to make the centrepiece a standard decorative
tree or praps a large shrub. but with plenty of space below for planting
out. summer bedding then over wintering annuals.

the ground is good quality sandy soil well drained to the point of being
dry
most of the time - mid bedfordshire and with plenty of horse poo already
been added at the outset.

the feature specimin should be light in leaf and branch to give dappled
shade and top out at no more than 20 to 25 feet fully grown.

any ideas please?

rgds Ramon

Ramon A wrote in message ...
We just cut a new bed (triangular with sides 20 ft, 12 ft and 15 ft)
where
once was lawn and would like to make the centrepiece a standard
decorative
tree or praps a large shrub. but with plenty of space below for
planting
out. summer bedding then over wintering annuals.

the ground is good quality sandy soil well drained to the point of
being dry
most of the time - mid bedfordshire and with plenty of horse poo
already
been added at the outset.

the feature specimin should be light in leaf and branch to give dappled
shade and top out at no more than 20 to 25 feet fully grown.

How far from the house? that is the first consideration you must have so
that your new tree does not affect the foundations.

Mike
www.british-naturism.org.uk

Amelanchiers make great trees, multi-stemmed or single trunk. They are
deciduous. Bronze young leaves in spring, white flowers in late spring,
berries and good autumn leaf colour.
On your soil you will have to water thoroughly and mulch until it's
established. It may be necessary to stake it until you are sure it's well
anchored.
Spider
Ramon A wrote in message
...
We just cut a new bed (triangular with sides 20 ft, 12 ft and 15 ft) where
once was lawn and would like to make the centrepiece a standard decorative
tree or praps a large shrub. but with plenty of space below for planting
out. summer bedding then over wintering annuals.

the ground is good quality sandy soil well drained to the point of being
dry
most of the time - mid bedfordshire and with plenty of horse poo already
been added at the outset.

the feature specimin should be light in leaf and branch to give dappled
shade and top out at no more than 20 to 25 feet fully grown.

any ideas please?

rgds Ramon