Controlling moss
 

Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

Is there a preparation that will keep it down without
seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of
dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then
hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive
will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will
be history.


Cheers - Joe

Controlling moss
 

"Joe McElvenney" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

Is there a preparation that will keep it down without
seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of
dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then
hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive
will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will
be history.


I doubt it, if the conditions are right, then just like arnie, it will be
back :-)

--
Tumbleweed

Remove my socks for email address

Controlling moss
 

Joe McElvenney wrote in message ...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

It's lovely: if that's what nature wants to do, I'd say let it, and
give praise for a beautiful background.

Is there a preparation that will keep it down without
seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of
dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then
hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive
will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will
be history.

I reckon history will repeat itself (as farce, of course)! If it's the
habitat for moss, then moss you will have. Physical brushing off is as
good as you can do, really; I loved the mossy look of a side yard, but
one day when we were selling, my boy attacked it with shovel and
yard-broom, and a whole compost-heap later I had to admit it did look
more organised (and strangely bigger: like mowing a lawn). One
control, as for green slime, is cheap dairy hypochlorite (aka bleach)
from the nearest farmers' supplier. Dilute about ten to one, and wear
the oldest clothes and Marigolds (butch versions of these also from
the farmers'place); but I wouldn't bother, left to myself. The
25-litre squarish 'cans' saw in half to a nice size for tomatoes as a
bonus, or you can cut just the bottoms off and use them to bring
rhubarb on.

Mike.

Controlling moss
 

Hi,

You're right I'm sure - nature will out and there isn't
a lot I can do about it. I'll tidy up just a bit now though
and then put it on the list of occasional chores.


Cheers - Joe

Controlling moss
 

"Joe McElvenney" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

I use a power washer to get rid of moss\weeds on paths, drives and patios -
beats chemicals - quite a bit of work but the results are really good.

Ann

Controlling moss
 

"Mike Lyle" wrote in message
om...
Joe McElvenney wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

It's lovely: if that's what nature wants to do, I'd say let it, and
give praise for a beautiful background.

Gardening is all about bending nature to do what you approve of.
If, like mine, your garden is totally overrun with moss on all walls
and beds every season, you, too, would feel less benign towards it.

Is there a preparation that will keep it down without
seeing it off entirely? Currently I wait for a couple of
dry days (just like now) take the yard brush to it and then
hose the area down. When I can get round to it, the drive
will be re-concreted and then that part of the problem will
be history.

I reckon history will repeat itself (as farce, of course)! If it's
the
habitat for moss, then moss you will have. Physical brushing off is
as
good as you can do, really; I loved the mossy look of a side yard,
but
one day when we were selling, my boy attacked it with shovel and
yard-broom, and a whole compost-heap later I had to admit it did
look
more organised (and strangely bigger: like mowing a lawn). One
control, as for green slime, is cheap dairy hypochlorite (aka
bleach)
from the nearest farmers' supplier. Dilute about ten to one, and
wear
the oldest clothes and Marigolds (butch versions of these also from
the farmers'place); but I wouldn't bother, left to myself. The
25-litre squarish 'cans' saw in half to a nice size for tomatoes as
a
bonus, or you can cut just the bottoms off and use them to bring
rhubarb on.

Mike.

Controlling moss
 

"Ann" wrote in message
...

"Joe McElvenney" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

I use a power washer to get rid of moss\weeds on paths, drives and
patios -
beats chemicals - quite a bit of work but the results are really
good.

That's all very well, but the moss comes right back during the
succeeding winter. In any case, you cannot get it off the soil in the
beds that way.

I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an
indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A
truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

Franz

Controlling moss
 

In article ,
"Franz Heymann" writes:
|
| That's all very well, but the moss comes right back during the
| succeeding winter. In any case, you cannot get it off the soil in the
| beds that way.
|
| I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an
| indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
| fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A
| truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

Quite. It is an indicator of near-continual damp, sometimes caused
by shade. It rakes off beds very easily, and can then be used for
all the things that you use moss for.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Controlling moss
 

On 5/4/04 3:38 AM, in article , "Franz
Heymann" wrote:


"Ann" wrote in message
...

"Joe McElvenney" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have trouble with too much moss on some of my garden
walls and parts of the drive. I would like to control it
rather than eliminate it entirely as to me it has a certain
rustic charm when in the right place and quantity.

I use a power washer to get rid of moss\weeds on paths, drives and
patios -
beats chemicals - quite a bit of work but the results are really
good.

That's all very well, but the moss comes right back during the
succeeding winter. In any case, you cannot get it off the soil in the
beds that way.

I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an
indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A
truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

Franz


I fortunately have a local source of chicken manure. It comes mixed with
sawdust. It is dry but ripe! I get a load in the winter and just throw it
all over my lawn...I can just see some of you cringing! :) Yes, it does
stink...I call it farm fresh air! :)
I live in an area that gets lots of rain in the winter and the rain
washes the manure into the ground and the grass grows over and through it.
The odd clump of manure that doesn't break down I solve by putting on my
West Coast cowboy boots (rubber boots) and boot (kick) the clumps into
submission! The clumps of manure, once kicked, spread out and eventually
disappear as the grass starts to grow in the spring.
I had moss growing strongly in one area and I put an extra amount of
this sawdusty manure on that area. It looked terrible for a time but now no
moss and the grass is growing green and well.
The nurseryman was probably right about poor soil but if there is no
grass under the moss how can the grass take over and obliterate the moss?
I have heard that the only way (other than my way with stinky sawdusty
manure) is to cover the moss with an inch + - of sand. This smothers the
moss and any grass below will grow through the sand. The grass does need
nutrients to grow strongly. (To ensure you have enough nutrients in the
soil throw a big party. Supply free beer to all your male friends and have
them....broadcast the end results in the chosen mossy area. Or a slower, but
equally effective way, drink the beer yourself and follow the above
suggestion. It works...don't ask me how I know). :)
Gary
Fort Langley, BC
Canada

Controlling moss
 

I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an
indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised. Result: A
truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

I have lots of moss in the garden (NW and shady during the first half of the
day), I never used any fertiliser and my plants are growing really well. Is
moss truly a sign of a poor soil?
I removed all of it recently while weeding (tons of weed) but I think I will
be happy to see it come back to stay. It is helpful in keeping the moisture
sealed in and green is better than black. I am now moving leave mulch to
spread over the bare patches of soil, let the worms do the fertilising.

Caroline

Controlling moss
 

"Caroline" wrote in message
...

I have lots of moss in the garden (NW and shady during the first half of
the
day), I never used any fertiliser and my plants are growing really well.
Is
moss truly a sign of a poor soil?

Probably a sign of poorly draining soil, in a shady spot.
--
Nick Wagg

Controlling moss
 

The message
from "Caroline" contains these words:

I once spoke to anurseryman about it. He said that the moss was an
indication of a poor soil. . For luck, I tried to put on more
fertiliser than I usually do, as the nurseryman advised.

He was ripping off the OP.

Result: A
truly bumper crop of moss on all the beds.

I have lots of moss in the garden (NW and shady during the first half of the
day), I never used any fertiliser and my plants are growing really well. Is
moss truly a sign of a poor soil?

No, it's a sign of acid moist soil. Moss grows perfectly well on acid
moist highly fertile soil, as the OP found out.

Janet.

Controlling moss
 

"Janet Baraclough.." wrote in message
...

snip

No, it's a sign of acid moist soil. Moss grows perfectly well on acid
moist highly fertile soil, as the OP found out.

Janet.

Is it really a sign of acid soil? I've been puzzling about my soil for a
while now - the surrounding gardens have lovely magnolias (acid?), and my
acers and rhododendrons seem to do fine (acid) but my hydrangeas always come
out pink (alkaline) - even the ones that were blue when I bought them. The
soil testing kit said slightly alkaline, but I have huge areas of moss
spreading across the lawn, and the paths always get a thick spongy coat in
the winter...

Bob

Controlling moss
 

In article ,
"Bob" writes:
|
| Is it really a sign of acid soil? I've been puzzling about my soil for a
| while now - the surrounding gardens have lovely magnolias (acid?), and my
| acers and rhododendrons seem to do fine (acid) but my hydrangeas always come
| out pink (alkaline) - even the ones that were blue when I bought them. The
| soil testing kit said slightly alkaline, but I have huge areas of moss
| spreading across the lawn, and the paths always get a thick spongy coat in
| the winter...

Some mosses are, but the real reason is that alkaline soils in the
UK tend to be well-drained. As far as I know, there are mosses
that will grow vigorously on any soil in the UK (including 'soils'
so poor that they count as hardcore), subject only to sufficient
damp.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Controlling moss
 

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...

In article ,
"Bob" writes:
|
| Is it really a sign of acid soil? I've been puzzling about my soil for
a
| while now - the surrounding gardens have lovely magnolias (acid?), and
my
| acers and rhododendrons seem to do fine (acid) but my hydrangeas always
come
| out pink (alkaline) - even the ones that were blue when I bought them.
The
| soil testing kit said slightly alkaline, but I have huge areas of moss
| spreading across the lawn, and the paths always get a thick spongy coat
in
| the winter...

Some mosses are, but the real reason is that alkaline soils in the
UK tend to be well-drained. As far as I know, there are mosses
that will grow vigorously on any soil in the UK (including 'soils'
so poor that they count as hardcore), subject only to sufficient
damp.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Well they certainly grow well enough on my asphalt path, and I'd class that
as a poor soil!

I didn't think the lawn was badly drained, though. There are two chusan
palms that don't seem to mind living in it (even though there is clay about
a foot down)

It never seems squelchy, and there are plenty of ants and worms keeping
things nice and airy. Half of it is shady though, and that is where most of
the moss seems to be - the sunny half is all clover (I wish I knew of some
nice chemical that would kill that off!)

Bob