I moved into a new house in the summer and unbeknown to me at the time there
was only about 4" of topsoil over approx 4ft of very thick heavy clay.

Since the rain started in the autumn, (I'm guessing you already know what
I'm going to say) the garden has become progressively more and more water
logged.

I am relatively new to gardening and would like some suggestions as how to
deal with this problem. Apart from moving, any ideas very much received.

Thanks

Hi.

Common problem you have with clay, but 4 feet !

One thing you may consider is raise beds.

Still drain will have to plan as well. Good Luck

On Thu, 2 Jan 2003 13:01:52 -0000, "cjw.1"
wrote:

I moved into a new house in the summer and unbeknown to me at the time there
was only about 4" of topsoil over approx 4ft of very thick heavy clay.

Since the rain started in the autumn, (I'm guessing you already know what
I'm going to say) the garden has become progressively more and more water
logged.

I am relatively new to gardening and would like some suggestions as how to
deal with this problem. Apart from moving, any ideas very much received.

It would help to have somewhat more information: Is that layer of
clay natural, or is it excavated soil that's been dumped on the
site?

What's under the clay?


--
Rodger Whitlock
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

"Rodger Whitlock" wrote in
message ...
It would help to have somewhat more information: Is that layer of
clay natural, or is it excavated soil that's been dumped on the
site?

What's under the clay?


--
Rodger Whitlock
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

Rodger, Under the clay is gravel. The clay is natural, a neighbour tells me
that the surrounding area used to be famous for brick making.

Chris

'Twas Thu, 2 Jan 2003 13:01:52 -0000, when "cjw.1"
enriched all our lives with these worthy
thoughts:

I moved into a new house in the summer and unbeknown to me at the time there
was only about 4" of topsoil over approx 4ft of very thick heavy clay.

Since the rain started in the autumn, (I'm guessing you already know what
I'm going to say) the garden has become progressively more and more water
logged.

I am relatively new to gardening and would like some suggestions as how to
deal with this problem. Apart from moving, any ideas very much received.

Try the Clay Soil FAQ....

http://www.tmac.clara.co.uk/urgring/faqsoil1.htm

--
cormaic URG faqs/webring - www.tmac.clara.co.uk/urgring/
Culcheth Garden - www.tmac.clara.co.uk/garden/
Warrington Paving - www.pavingexpert.com/
Peoples' Republic of South Lancashire

cormaic CAN BE FOUND AT borlochshall.co.uk

In article ,
"cjw.1" writes:
|
| It would help to have somewhat more information: Is that layer of
| clay natural, or is it excavated soil that's been dumped on the
| site?
|
| What's under the clay?
|
| Rodger, Under the clay is gravel. The clay is natural, a neighbour tells me
| that the surrounding area used to be famous for brick making.

That's good news for you. It means that it is possible to build
soakaways that lead down into the gravel, and at least ensure
that you can eliminate standing water. Assuming that the gravel
drains, of course :-)

I don't know if the clay FAQ has details, but building such
soakaways is well within the ability of a jobbing builder or
someone with a reasonably functional back! A 4' cube of wet
clay is of the order of 3 tonnes.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679

On Fri, 3 Jan 2003 11:20:04 -0000, "cjw.1"
wrote:

"Rodger Whitlock" wrote in
message ...
It would help to have somewhat more information: Is that layer of
clay natural, or is it excavated soil that's been dumped on the
site?

What's under the clay?

Rodger, Under the clay is gravel. The clay is natural, a neighbour tells me
that the surrounding area used to be famous for brick making.

This triggers a series of thoughts:

1. Gravel under the clay: this means that if you put in land
drains, you can dig a sump into the gravel layer at the low point
and lead the water into it; the gravel will probably take the
water away quite nicely.

2. Good sticky brick clay is an excellent starting point for a
very good garden. It holds both moisture and nutrients.

3. Digging will be a problem: You are likely to find that your
clay is stickily unworkable in wet weather, and too bricklike in
dry weather.

4. Clay puts a real strain on garden tools. Don't waste your
money on cheap, poorly made digging forks in particular. Look for
very strong one. And when you dig, take *little* fork- and
shovel-fulls.

5. Scout out local sources of cheap organic matter in bulk.
Manure, fallen leaves, nearly anything will do. In my experience,
putting on fairly thick mulches of organic matter greatly
improves a clay soil, both by adding humus as it decomposes and
by providing food for worms and other soil denizens. Finished
compost is not as good as fairly rough, partially decomposed
material. Note that I say "mulch" -- you don't have to dig this
stuff in.

6. Adding sand is a waste of money and time.

7. If you are in an acid-soil area, adding lime will flocculate
the clay and make it easier to work.

8. Green manures will also help.

9. Regular *light* fertilization will bring up the fertility of
the soil and encourage plant growth. Plant growth cannot help but
have a beneficial effect; roots are *very* penetrating, and roots
of non-woody material are not fully perennial.

10. Some plants do not like clay soils and will not do well. I
have badly drained clay here, and I find that crocuses do not
thrive, though perhaps that has more to do with winter
waterlogging than the texture of the soil.


--
Rodger Whitlock
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

"Rodger Whitlock" wrote
in message ...

3. Digging will be a problem: You are likely to find that your
clay is stickily unworkable in wet weather, and too bricklike in
dry weather.

4. Clay puts a real strain on garden tools. Don't waste your
money on cheap, poorly made digging forks in particular. Look for
very strong one. And when you dig, take *little* fork- and
shovel-fulls.

And don't dig unless you absolutely have to. I found a successful strategy
was to pile as much garden compost on the top as I could, and plant shrubs
and perennials into that rather than trying to dig the clay.

In areas where you must dig, try breaking up the top layer with lots of
organic material (I used cow manure and part-rotted compost). Next year,
dig a bit deeper and do the same.

10. Some plants do not like clay soils and will not do well. I
have badly drained clay here, and I find that crocuses do not
thrive, though perhaps that has more to do with winter
waterlogging than the texture of the soil.

I found that gravel made a good answer to this. You make a gravel bed on
top of the clay, then plant your crocus bulbs etc at the bottom of the
gravel, just resting on the clay surface. Helps keep them dry.

--
Victoria Clare
gardening high up in South East Cornwall
http://www.clareassoc.co.uk/
--