My Cycad has turned yellow, as if it has a shortage of a particular
nutrient, other than that it is OK.
Can anyone help with the cause ? Thanks.

"JonC" wrote in message
...
My Cycad has turned yellow, as if it has a shortage of a particular
nutrient, other than that it is OK.
Can anyone help with the cause ? Thanks.

See below- re Compost.
Cycads are from forest locations so I guess the soil will tend to be acid.
Davek.

"davek" wrote:

My Cycad has turned yellow, as if it has a shortage of a particular
nutrient, other than that it is OK.
Can anyone help with the cause ?

See below- re Compost.
Cycads are from forest locations so I guess the soil will tend to be acid.
Davek.

Careful ... a fair number of Cycads are found in sandy or dry
locations, either fully exposed to sun or close to the sea, almost at
the water's edge in decidedly brackish conditions. Certain species of
Cycas, Lepidozamia and Macrozamia are found in understorey or at the
edge of forests, but that is not true of the entire tribe. Some grow
in alkaline soils as well - especially certain Mexican cycads such as
some Dioons, Ceratozamias and Zamias. Several South African types
including many of the Encephalartos naturally occur on arid, alkaline
soils and are prone to root rot in constantly moist, acidic, humus
rich types . The safest bet is to provide a very sharply drained,
neutral, loam-included compost for all species and keep them in
bright, filtered light.

As with many types of plant, yellowing of otherwise healthy leaves is
often caused by a nutritional imbalance - and in Cycads it is usually
the lack of manganese or low nitrate levels. Unfortunately the
reputation of Cycads for being tolerant of remaining in the same pot
for years, means that many have to cope with nutrient deficient
composts, ultimately resulting in yellowed or streaked and spotted
leaves. It is unlikely that fully yellowed leaves will recover, but
the application of a nitrogen-rich feed plus trace elements every 4
weeks at this time of year will prevent new leaf flushes from going
the same way.

If the plant has been in the same compost for several to many years,
especially a multi-purpose type, carefully remove it from the pot and
using knitting need or sharpened split cane, gently tease away the old
stale compost from between the roots. Repot in the same container or
one that is the next size up, using a mix of 4 parts JI No3, 4 parts
mulit-purpose and 2 parts perlite. This will provide a well aerated,
free-draining compost that will hold on to nutrients. Water well and
allow the compost to become nearly dry before watering for the first
6-8 weeks. Thereafter only allow the compost to become slightly dry
between waterings. Additional liquid feeds will not be necessary for
the first couple of months, but thereafter a monthly dose of a
balanced feed during summer and every 8-10 weeks in winter will keep
the plant in good order.

HTH
Dave Poole
Torquay, Coastal South Devon UK
Winter min -2°C. Summer max 34°C.
Growing season: March - November

"Dave Poole" wrote in message
...
"davek" wrote:

My Cycad has turned yellow, as if it has a shortage of a particular
nutrient, other than that it is OK.
Can anyone help with the cause ?

See below- re Compost.
Cycads are from forest locations so I guess the soil will tend to be
acid.
Davek.

Careful ... a fair number of Cycads are found in sandy or dry
locations, either fully exposed to sun or close to the sea, almost at
the water's edge in decidedly brackish conditions. Certain species of
Cycas, Lepidozamia and Macrozamia are found in understorey or at the
edge of forests, but that is not true of the entire tribe. Some grow
in alkaline soils as well - especially certain Mexican cycads such as
some Dioons, Ceratozamias and Zamias. Several South African types
including many of the Encephalartos naturally occur on arid, alkaline
soils and are prone to root rot in constantly moist, acidic, humus
rich types . The safest bet is to provide a very sharply drained,
neutral, loam-included compost for all species and keep them in
bright, filtered light.

As with many types of plant, yellowing of otherwise healthy leaves is
often caused by a nutritional imbalance - and in Cycads it is usually
the lack of manganese or low nitrate levels. Unfortunately the
reputation of Cycads for being tolerant of remaining in the same pot
for years, means that many have to cope with nutrient deficient
composts, ultimately resulting in yellowed or streaked and spotted
leaves. It is unlikely that fully yellowed leaves will recover, but
the application of a nitrogen-rich feed plus trace elements every 4
weeks at this time of year will prevent new leaf flushes from going
the same way.

If the plant has been in the same compost for several to many years,
especially a multi-purpose type, carefully remove it from the pot and
using knitting need or sharpened split cane, gently tease away the old
stale compost from between the roots. Repot in the same container or
one that is the next size up, using a mix of 4 parts JI No3, 4 parts
mulit-purpose and 2 parts perlite. This will provide a well aerated,
free-draining compost that will hold on to nutrients. Water well and
allow the compost to become nearly dry before watering for the first
6-8 weeks. Thereafter only allow the compost to become slightly dry
between waterings. Additional liquid feeds will not be necessary for
the first couple of months, but thereafter a monthly dose of a
balanced feed during summer and every 8-10 weeks in winter will keep
the plant in good order.

HTH
Dave Poole
Torquay, Coastal South Devon UK
Winter min -2°C. Summer max 34°C.
Growing season: March - November

Thanks for your help......J.