On Saturday, August 30, 2014 1:30:12 PM UTC-7, Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Sat, 30 Aug 2014 12:42:41 -0700 (PDT), Hypatia Nachshon

wrote:



On Saturday, August 30, 2014 11:29:14 AM UTC-7, Brooklyn1 wrote:

On Sat, 30 Aug 2014 08:01:19 -0700 (PDT), Hypatia Nachshon



wrote:







On Saturday, August 30, 2014 5:33:45 AM UTC-7, Brooklyn1 wrote:



Hypatia Nachshon wrote:















This is about a Santa Rosa plum and a Blenheim Apricot.







Planted same time; about 4-5 years ago. I assumed that at that age they would be living on ground water, but gardener told me contrary today! Horrified! Mea Culpa! Mea Maxima Culpa! Is he right?!







Plum is healthy-looking; well leafed-out. Apricot no; looks puny; suckers galore.







I remove; they return.







[...]

A neat method for watering trees in arid climes is with 4" diameter perforated PVC pipe. With a post hole digger or auger make post holes aboout 30" deep about the tree drip line 120? apart. Insert a length of perforated pipe into each hole with about 2" above grade. Then each day or as needed fill each pipe with water, can fertilze too.

Most tree roots don't go more than two feet deep and most feeder roots
are just below the surface.



Tx. Sounds like a plan. I had been letting a slow hose run for a long time too near the trunk; shoulda known to put it near drip line.



Do I assume correctly that the PVC pipe is BLOCKED at both ends, such that the only water that goes IN is through the 2" entry and the only water that comes OUT is through the underground perforations?


I'd leave the ends open.... if you think too much water is seeping at the bottom you can attach a wooden disk to a dowel to push into the pipe. Also a good layer of mulch will slow water loss. A lot depends on the condition of the soil you used to fill the hole when you planted. Also keep in mind that stone fruit really doesn't do well in So Cal.

I'm honestly not getting it. Never was good at spatial stuff g Do you mean the 4" buried pipe is perforated only at the water entry point? Open at both ends?

I was visualizing buried pipe blocked at both ends, with a 2" vertical "filler" pipe inserted into it. Water would then exit underground 4" pipe via several perforations rather than sudden gush.

Is this design overkill?

HB

Hypatia Nachshon wrote:

I'm honestly not getting it. Never was good at spatial stuff g
Do you mean the 4" buried pipe is perforated
only at the water entry point? Open at both ends?
I was visualizing buried pipe blocked at both ends,
with a 2" vertical "filler" pipe inserted into it.
Water would then exit underground 4" pipe via
several perforations rather than sudden gush.
Is this design overkill?

You obviously don't know what perforated PVC pipe is... there are
various types, check your local big box hardware store. It's
relatively inexpensive, about a buck a foot in 10' lenghts. Cuts
fairly easily with a hack saw. Dig the post holes and insert lenghts
of pipe vertically and back fill... I think now you should get it.
http://perforatedpvcpipe.com/perfora...s-properf.html
http://www.lowes.com/pd_24141-1814-P...ductId=3362194
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Advanced-...0010/203298773
Some people prefer to buy solid PVC pipe (costs a bit less) and drill
their own holes to a size and pattern they prefer... just more labor.
Also a plumbing supply emporium will have more choices. If you're not
fussy about aesthetics another tree watering method is with 5 gallon
contractor buckets; drill a couple of 1/4" holes in the bottom set
around the tree and fill with water... far less labor (no digging).
But I think the perforated pipe method is a lot more efficient for
deep watering. Once the tree is well established you can choose to
remove the pipes. There are many other tree watering products:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oasis-8-i...-202101553-_-x

On Sunday, August 31, 2014 8:04:45 AM UTC-7, Brooklyn1 wrote:
Hypatia Nachshon wrote:



I'm honestly not getting it. Never was good at spatial stuff g

Do you mean the 4" buried pipe is perforated

only at the water entry point? Open at both ends?

I was visualizing buried pipe blocked at both ends,

with a 2" vertical "filler" pipe inserted into it.

Water would then exit underground 4" pipe via

several perforations rather than sudden gush.

Is this design overkill?



You obviously don't know what perforated PVC pipe is... there are

various types, check your local big box hardware store. It's

relatively inexpensive, about a buck a foot in 10' lenghts. Cuts

fairly easily with a hack saw. Dig the post holes and insert lenghts

of pipe vertically and back fill... I think now you should get it.

http://perforatedpvcpipe.com/perfora...s-properf.html

http://www.lowes.com/pd_24141-1814-P...ductId=3362194

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Advanced-...0010/203298773

Some people prefer to buy solid PVC pipe (costs a bit less) and drill

their own holes to a size and pattern they prefer... just more labor.

Also a plumbing supply emporium will have more choices. If you're not

fussy about aesthetics another tree watering method is with 5 gallon

contractor buckets; drill a couple of 1/4" holes in the bottom set

around the tree and fill with water... far less labor (no digging).

But I think the perforated pipe method is a lot more efficient for

deep watering. Once the tree is well established you can choose to

remove the pipes. There are many other tree watering products:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oasis-8-i...-202101553-_-x

Gracias for mimi-tutorial - much appreciated.

I HAVE been perforating my own PCV pipes (smalldiam) which serve nicely for watering beds (instead of soaker hoses).

So I might go that way with buried pipes, depending how many holes the commercial variety has; I assume not as many as with my watering-bed pipes.
If many holes required I'll let them do it g.

Pls address my q. re; blocking ends of pipe. I still can't visualize pouring a whole bunch of water down the intake, and having it all gush out at once.

TIA

HB

Hypatia Nachshon wrote:

Pls address my q. re; blocking ends of pipe.
I still can't visualize pouring a whole bunch of
water down the intake, and having it all gush
out at once.

No water gushes out the bottom, it's down in the ground, water will
slowly perk into the ground, and that's what you want for deep
watering... unless you have an underground spring directly below those
trees any excess water you add that the ground can't absorb will
evaporate at the surface, same as it does when over watering a lawn.
Were there an underground spring you wouldn't be asking about
watering, the ground would always be moist. If you're unsure do one
test pipe first to see how your ground perks, You can always place a
stopper into a pipe later, drop an empty steel can into the pipe, pop
a hole in it so it won't float, and you can always retrieve it with a
magnet. If your ground is very porous it won't matter how much you
water.

On Sunday, August 31, 2014 12:27:32 PM UTC-7, Brooklyn1 wrote:
Hypatia Nachshon wrote:



Pls address my q. re; blocking ends of pipe.

I still can't visualize pouring a whole bunch of

water down the intake, and having it all gush

out at once.



No water gushes out the bottom, it's down in the ground, water will

slowly perk into the ground, and that's what you want for deep

watering... unless you have an underground spring directly below those

trees any excess water you add that the ground can't absorb will

evaporate at the surface, same as it does when over watering a lawn.

Were there an underground spring you wouldn't be asking about

watering, the ground would always be moist. If you're unsure do one

test pipe first to see how your ground perks, You can always place a

stopper into a pipe later, drop an empty steel can into the pipe, pop

a hole in it so it won't float, and you can always retrieve it with a

magnet. If your ground is very porous it won't matter how much you

water.

OK, next time I'm at Home Despot I'll check out the pipes.

Muchas gracias

HB