I use Git Rot preferentially to MinWax, the other hardener
of choice. I use this because of it's purported penetrating
properties.

I live in hot, humid, salty, insect-ridden Gulf Coast Texas.
Dead wood tends to have a very short life span. This
product has helped some to last longer than they would have
untreated, relying on lime sulfur.

I was originally turned on to this product by Dan Robinson.
As he recommended, supported by my own experiences...

1. The wood has to be DRY! Moisture will not affect it's
hardening action but I believe it affects migration.

2. Temperatures have to be over 55 or so... specific temps
are listed on the box.

3. I've used it on very spongy rotted bougie ("Punky")that
most people would carve/cut away. It's hardened right up.
Still intact 5 years later with this treatment.

4. It will soak into horizontal grain to some extent. It
soaks much better into end grain. This works better on punky
or soft wood rather than, say, rock-hard 300 year old
juniper dead wood... i.e., works where you really need it!

5. I apply, let it soak in, apply some more; I do this a
few times till it obviously isn't taking any more.

6. If you need really deep wood penetration you'll have to
drill holes. I've not explored the depth of saturation, my
guess is that it will harden a few mm's down of moderately
soft wood. These holes could be camoflaged later with the
new carveable wood...

7. I've gotten it on bare roots, trunks, branches, leaves,
etc. Never seen any apparent damage...

8. It leaves a slight sheen. It's not obnoxious but if it
bugs you one could knock it down with some fine sandpaper or
steel wool, or just let natural weathering take care of it.

9. Lime sulphur/color before. It will still work after but
not as well- i.e., if you want that "stark white" bare
bones look. Actually the bleach look achieved afterward is
kind of attractive. It darkens the wood tone some.

Sticking my neck out... Here's a link to a series I posted
on it's use over on that other bonsai forum...

http://forum.bonsaitalk.com/showthre...&threadid=3454

Hope you enjoy...

Jim Stone
TX

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++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++
************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

I can think of a few old gits I could use this on!!

Regards
Nick Rôbin
07747 635301

.................................................. ...........................
.................................................. .
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Stone"
To:
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 3:49 PM
Subject: [IBC] Git Rot


I use Git Rot preferentially to MinWax, the other hardener
of choice. I use this because of it's purported penetrating
properties.

I live in hot, humid, salty, insect-ridden Gulf Coast Texas.
Dead wood tends to have a very short life span. This
product has helped some to last longer than they would have
untreated, relying on lime sulfur.

I was originally turned on to this product by Dan Robinson.
As he recommended, supported by my own experiences...

1. The wood has to be DRY! Moisture will not affect it's
hardening action but I believe it affects migration.

2. Temperatures have to be over 55 or so... specific temps
are listed on the box.

3. I've used it on very spongy rotted bougie ("Punky")that
most people would carve/cut away. It's hardened right up.
Still intact 5 years later with this treatment.

4. It will soak into horizontal grain to some extent. It
soaks much better into end grain. This works better on punky
or soft wood rather than, say, rock-hard 300 year old
juniper dead wood... i.e., works where you really need it!

5. I apply, let it soak in, apply some more; I do this a
few times till it obviously isn't taking any more.

6. If you need really deep wood penetration you'll have to
drill holes. I've not explored the depth of saturation, my
guess is that it will harden a few mm's down of moderately
soft wood. These holes could be camoflaged later with the
new carveable wood...

7. I've gotten it on bare roots, trunks, branches, leaves,
etc. Never seen any apparent damage...

8. It leaves a slight sheen. It's not obnoxious but if it
bugs you one could knock it down with some fine sandpaper or
steel wool, or just let natural weathering take care of it.

9. Lime sulphur/color before. It will still work after but
not as well- i.e., if you want that "stark white" bare
bones look. Actually the bleach look achieved afterward is
kind of attractive. It darkens the wood tone some.

Sticking my neck out... Here's a link to a series I posted
on it's use over on that other bonsai forum...

http://forum.bonsaitalk.com/showthre...&threadid=3454

Hope you enjoy...

Jim Stone
TX


************************************************** **************************
****
++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++

************************************************** **************************
****
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++


************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++