I am going to spray my trees with a 30 to 1 dillution, water to lime sulfur, to protect them from bugs etc. I will also cover the soil to keep the lime sulfur from penatrating the soil. What I want to know is are there any trees that you cannot spray a d
illuted lime sulfur solution on?

Bill W.

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I am printing the label for lime sulfur, just so some of you will learn how to read a label. Labels tell you how to use a product, and on what plants. In this case, the label is very unspecific, mentioning "ornamentals", but then naming only a handful of
plants. I would interpret this as meaning the company has tested the plants mentioned, has found the product safe, and is making the assumption that it is safe for similar plants. If I were applying lime sulfur on a plant I wasn't sure of, I'd test on a
branch first, look for phytotoxicity, and in its absence, proceed to spray the whole plant. Notice the warning not to spray after application of oil or in hot weather (not that hot weather is much of a problem right now!).

DIRECTIONS FOR USE
It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.

GENERAL INFORMATION: FOR OUTDOOR HOMEOWNER USE ONLY. For best results, Lime Sulfur Solution should be used alone. Use in cool weather - early Spring and Fall sprays. Apply sufficient spray to uniformly wet all plant surfaces. Lime Sulfur Solution should no
t be used within 10 to 14 days of an oil spray, nor when temperatures are high.

APPLES: For control of Leaf Spot, Powdery Mildew - Apply when blossoms are breaking and first showing pink. Use at rate of 1 pint to 5 gallons, or 6 Tbs. per gallon of water. Additional cover sprays, pink, petal fall and first cover should be applied at 5
Tbs. per gallon. For control of Hard and Armored Scales, Scurly Scale and San Jose Scale - Spray when trees are fully dormant and use at rate of 1 pint to each gallon of water.
PEACHES: Pre-harvest spray: For control or prevention of Brown Rot - Use
11/4 Tbs. per gallon of water. Suggested for use after hail damage or close to harvest, and has the advantage over wettable sulfur in that spray residue is much less noticeable. Some leaf injury may result during hot weather. Can be used within 1 day of ha
rvest. For control of Leaf Curl, Hard and Armored Scales, Scurly Scale and San Jose Scale - Spray when trees are fully dormant and use at rate of 1 pint to each gallon of water.
PLUMS: For control of Leaf Curl and San Jose Scale - Apply when plums are dormant. Use 1 pint per gallon of water.

CURRANTS, GOOSEBERRIES: For control of Anthracnose - Use at rate of 1 pint to 6 gallons or 5 Tbs. per gallon of water. Make the first application when buds are breaking. Repeat in 10 to 15 days. Two to three additional sprays may be necessary. Use 11/4 Tbs
. per gallon of water applied at 10 to 15 day intervals, if necessary, for control.
RASPBERRIES: For control to Rose Scale, Anthracnose, Cane and Spur Blight - Spray as delayed dormant when buds begin to break and show silver. Use at rate of 1 pint per gallon of water.

ORNAMENTALS, SHRUBS, TREES: For control of Hard and Armored Scales, Scurly Scale, San Jose Scale, Euonymus Scale, Pine Needle Scale and Juniper Scale on Lilac, Ash, Poplar, Dogwood, Elm, Birch, Willow, Euonymus, Pines and Junipers - Spray when trees are fu
lly dormant and use at rate of 1 pint to each gallon of water.
ROSES: For control of Anthracnose - Apply when roses are dormant. Use 1 pint per gallon of water. For control of Powdery Mildew - First cover spray should be applied when buds break in Spring. Use at rate of 1 pint to 6 gallons, or 5 Tbs. per gallon of wat
er. Two to three applications at 7 to 10 day intervals are desirable.
BOXWOOD: For control of Canker - Remove infected branches down to healthy wood. Use Lime Sulfur Solution 1 pint to 6 gallons, or 5 Tbs. per gallon of water. Make applications as follows: 1st, as soon as dead leaves have been cleaned up in the Spring; 2nd,
when new growth is about half completed; 3rd, after Spring growth is completed; 4th, after Fall growth is completed.

PRECAUTIONARY STATEMENTS
Hazards to Humans and Domestic Animals
DANGER: Fatal if swallowed, inhaled or absorbed through skin. This product is corrosive to flesh because of its caustic alkaline nature and it causes irreversible eye damage and skin burns. Do not get in eyes, on skin, or on clothing. Wear goggles or face
shield and rubber gloves when handling. Avoid breathing spray mist. Wash thoroughly with soap and water after handling and before eating, drinking and using tobacco. Remove contaminated clothing and wash before reuse.

FIRST AID
IF SWALLOWED: Drink promptly a large quantity of milk, egg white, or gelatin solution or if these are not available, large quantities of water. Get medical attention. Do not induce vomiting.
IF IN EYES: Immediately flush with plenty of clean water and see a doctor.
IF ON SKIN: Remove contaminated clothing and wash affected area with soap and water. Launder clothing before reusing.

ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS
Do not apply directly to water. Do not apply where runoff is likely to occur. Do not apply when weather conditions favor drift from areas treated. Do not contaminate water when disposing of equipment washwaters.

PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL HAZARDS
MAY GIVE OFF HIGHLY TOXIC AND EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE HYDROGEN SULFIDE GAS IF MIXED WITH ACIDS.

STORAGE & DISPOSAL

STORAGE: Store only in original container, in a cool, dry place inaccessible to children and pets and away from feed and foodstuffs. Store above 5° F.
PESTICIDE DISPOSAL: Securely wrap original container in several layers of newspaper and discard in trash.
CONTAINER DISPOSAL: Do not reuse empty container. Rinse thoroughly before discarding in trash collection.

NOTICE: Buyer assumes all risks of use, storage or handling of this material not in strict accordance with DIRECTIONS and CAUTIONS stated on this label.

5132 C

EPA Reg. No. 16-72
EPA Est. 16-VA-11; 769-GA-12 Subscript following Est. No. corresponds to first digit in Lot No.

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Thank you, Nina for the lime sulfur instructions. I, among others, am
guilty of not being careful about reading them.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nina Shishkoff"
To:
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 10:24 AM
Subject: [IBC] Lime Sulfur




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For all of you that are measurement an label
challenged, there is lime sulfer in a bottle with a
hose attachement that mixes a solution for you when
you turn on the water. I haven't kill anything with
this method in the last 3 years.

Kitsune Miko

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I am printing the label for lime sulfur, just so some of you
will learn how to read a label.

Which is all well and good; as Nina says, ALWAYS read (and
follow) label instructions.

There is a more basic point, however: Do you have reason to
believe that you NEED to spray your bonsai (you don't say which
kinds you have)? Is there mildew, black spot, various scales,
etc., as the label says LS will control?

On bonsai, at this time of year, I'd tend to doubt it.

Despite the various pesticide labels, there are VERY FEW
pesticides that PREVENT infestations. LS _may_ prevent some
fungus-caused diseases for apples (and other members of the rose
family). Maybe. Otherwise, manufacturer's claims to _prevent_
an infestation are based more on their desire to sell product
than it is to save your plant from voracious predators.

There's no point in applying it to control insects -- scale,
etc. -- if there are no such insects present (and ONE scale does
not make an all-out attack necessary!!!).

It is always better to spray ONLY when necessary. These things
are designed, man-made, POISONS. With rare exceptions -- of
which lime sulfur is NOT one -- they also are indiscriminate
poisons. They kill good bugs as well as bad bugs; LS is as
likely to kill "good" soil-based fungi as it is to kill the "bad"
ones.

Spraying isn't something one just does "for the heck of it."

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - The phrase
'sustainable growth' is an oxymoron. - Stephen Viederman

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Friends:

Never spray ANYTHING on your trees unless you are CERTAIN that it will not prove to be deleterious to its health.

I have had excellent results with Ortho Orthenex--a combined insecticide and fungicide. Even with this said, try the spray on an inconspicuous area of the tree. If all is well within a few days, spray as required and based on the manufacturer's instructi
ons.

Cordially,

Michael Persiano
http://members.aol.com/iasnob/index.html

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lewis"

Spraying isn't something one just does "for the heck of it."


Very true Jim.
However, I found that in Japan the two nurseries where I
observed their procedures, every tree was either dipped
in the solution or sprayed. The small, mame size trees were
turned upside down and dunked, after that the soil was covered
while the solution dried. The soil was also covered before
spraying the larger specimen.
This procedure was performed twice a year, once before
closing the trees in for the winter into cold frames, and once
again in the spring after repotting.
Both places are very well known nurseries run by professionals.
Both claim that it cuts down, actually nearly eliminates fungal
and related problems.

FWIW.

Peter Aradi
Tulsa, Oklahoma

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lewis"

Spraying isn't something one just does "for the heck of it."


Very true Jim.
However, I found that in Japan the two nurseries where I
observed their procedures, every tree was either dipped
in the solution or sprayed. The small, mame size trees were
turned upside down and dunked, after that the soil was covered
while the solution dried. The soil was also covered before
spraying the larger specimen.

Maybeso . . . BUT the Japanese have never been particularly
environmentally conscious (not that the USA is any more, either),
and have one of the worst chemical poisoning histories in the
world.

The fact remains that you should NOT spray unless the trees need
it -- i.e. the bug is present in sufficient numbers that it can't
be controlled any other way. That's basic pesticide use
procedures.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - The phrase
'sustainable growth' is an oxymoron. - Stephen Viederman

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Thank you Nina

Around Portugal we do not have Lime Sulfur... I just make my own :-)
But that it's great info. Thanks


Pedro Amorim Pereira _ Porto - Portugal

http://sapp.telepac.pt/bonsai-pt/
http://www.geocities.com/pedropereira.geo

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Lime sulfur is a pretty safe and effective pesticide, if used properly. However, it is a surface protectant, with no systemic action whatsoever. Therefore, using it prophyllactically at the beginning of winter makes very little sense- it will be worn off
by rain and wind long before any pest is active. It makes more sense to spray trees in early spring, before hot weather, but when fungi and insects are beginning to stir. And I wouldn't use it then unless I knew I was facing an inevitable foe: for insta
nce, cedar apple rust on my rosaceous bonsai, which need protection in early spring, just as leaves are unfurling. Lime sulfur is perfect for that.

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