If you want to tell us what your cure is, by all means do so. If you want monetary backing, this is not an appropriate venue.

Now, I've worked for several Agrochemical companies, and I can attest to some weaseliness in their practices, but they aren't nearly as nefarious as you are implying. If you think the Ag companies are refusing your "cure" because a 100% cure would put the
m out of business, you don't understand the nature of Verticillium. Verticillium becomes a problem on Long Island every time a potato farm is converted to a nursery; Ag companies could make a tidy profit for 50 years before they'd run out of infested land
. Most products are very profitable for only a couple of decades anyway.


As a bonsai enthusiast, particularly favouring Maple I was delighted
when a colleague of mine discovered and patented a non toxic (green)
cure for Verticillium Wilt. Throwing my lot in with this venture, we
paid a commercial lab to test and prove our theory 100%.

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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

As a bonsai enthusiast, particularly favouring Maple I was
delighted
when a colleague of mine discovered and patented a non toxic
(green)
cure for Verticillium Wilt. Throwing my lot in with this
venture, we
paid a commercial lab to test and prove our theory 100%.
We now find that no agrochemical co will take our solution
because the
process of obtaining the single molecule cure can be
obtained/replecated by immersion in water. Given the evidense
they
accept it will work but can see no commercial application for
such a
simple cure. Without backing we cannot afford to pay for the
required
18 months of pesticide trials that all marketed products
require.
Looks like the agrochemical industry will continue to sell
$2,000,000
of Methyl Bromide and other ozone depleting products in to the
world
market.

What a terrible, terrible shame that you can't afford to test
your product, he said sarcastically. And if anyone on the list
is stupid enough to offer to send money to this Yahoo, you
deserve what you get ripped off.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Only where
people have learned to appreciate and cherish the landscape and
its living cover will they treat it with the care and respect it
should have - Paul Bigelow Sears.

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Then... what's the best solution to cure the verticillium?

-Ireneu-


There is no cure for this disease once it gets in a plant; the plant will
either throw it off, or it will be killed. However, I don't know the
pesticide regulations of Europe; there may be some systemic fungicide
registered for use that might knock the fungus back temporarily. There
are two species of Verticillium in the U.S.; one of them is temperature
sensitive, and in nature it is killed in the above-ground portions of
trees during the summer, and lingers in the cooler roots. I would suspect
that this species would be completely killed in bonsai at temperatures of
30 C or higher.

Nina

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Thank you, Nina for your advice.

Only one more question... if I can't cure de verticillium, how can I prevent this
disease?

-Ireneu-


Nina Shishkoff wrote:

Then... what's the best solution to cure the verticillium?

-Ireneu-


There is no cure for this disease once it gets in a plant; the plant will
either throw it off, or it will be killed. However, I don't know the
pesticide regulations of Europe; there may be some systemic fungicide
registered for use that might knock the fungus back temporarily. There
are two species of Verticillium in the U.S.; one of them is temperature
sensitive, and in nature it is killed in the above-ground portions of
trees during the summer, and lingers in the cooler roots. I would suspect
that this species would be completely killed in bonsai at temperatures of
30 C or higher.

Nina

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Thank you, Nina for your advice.

Only one more question... if I can't cure de verticillium, how can I prevent this
disease?

-Ireneu-


Nina Shishkoff wrote:

Then... what's the best solution to cure the verticillium?

-Ireneu-


There is no cure for this disease once it gets in a plant; the plant will
either throw it off, or it will be killed. However, I don't know the
pesticide regulations of Europe; there may be some systemic fungicide
registered for use that might knock the fungus back temporarily. There
are two species of Verticillium in the U.S.; one of them is temperature
sensitive, and in nature it is killed in the above-ground portions of
trees during the summer, and lingers in the cooler roots. I would suspect
that this species would be completely killed in bonsai at temperatures of
30 C or higher.

Nina

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Thank you, Nina for your advice.

Only one more question... if I can't cure de verticillium, how can I prevent this
disease?

-Ireneu-


Nina Shishkoff wrote:

Then... what's the best solution to cure the verticillium?

-Ireneu-


There is no cure for this disease once it gets in a plant; the plant will
either throw it off, or it will be killed. However, I don't know the
pesticide regulations of Europe; there may be some systemic fungicide
registered for use that might knock the fungus back temporarily. There
are two species of Verticillium in the U.S.; one of them is temperature
sensitive, and in nature it is killed in the above-ground portions of
trees during the summer, and lingers in the cooler roots. I would suspect
that this species would be completely killed in bonsai at temperatures of
30 C or higher.

Nina

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Wow!! Jim! Thank you a lot! You are the best treatment for verticillium! :-))))

-Ireneu-


Jim Lewis wrote:

Thank you, Nina for your advice.

Only one more question... if I can't cure de verticillium, how
can I prevent this
disease?

-Ireneu-

In rough order of importance:

1. Acquire healthy plants -- especially plants that are less
susceptible (that does NOT include maples). (see below)
2. Use fresh, standard, inorganic bonsai soil and NO soil from
an old compost pile, the garden or elsewhere "in nature." (You
CAN sterilize old bonsai soil, but there's no guarantee that you
will get everything.)
3. Practice clean, safe bonsai; keep tables free of rotting
leaves, spilled soil and the other "stuff" that comes from
growing plants. Use clean tools (wash in alcohol if they are
used on a suspicious tree).
4. Do not let soil stay wet/soggy/cold for excessive lengths of
time. (With weather like we've had the last 2 weeks, THAT is
impossible!!!)
5. Give the trees as much sun as possible (as much as they can
take).
6. Use Nitrogen rich fertilizer.

Or, don't fret TOO much. Do as much of the above as you can,
then roll with the punches if something happens -- and chances
are that it will not. ------- MY preference.

A healthy plant (from start to finish) is less likely to have
insect pests OR plant disease.

Resistant plants include: Archostaphylos, Betula, Buxus,
Carpinus, Ceanothus, Cornus, Crataegus, Eucalyptus, Fagus,
Gleditsia, Ilex, Juglans, Liquidamber, Malus, Morus, Nerium,
Platanus, Quercus, Salix, Tilia, MOST conifers, and Monocots like
bamboo, etc. (Ortho Home Garden Problem Solver)

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Only where
people have learned to appreciate and cherish the landscape and
its living cover will they treat it with the care and respect it
should have - Paul Bigelow Sears.

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Thank you, Nina for your advice.

Only one more question... if I can't cure de verticillium, how
can I prevent this
disease?

-Ireneu-

In rough order of importance:

1. Acquire healthy plants -- especially plants that are less
susceptible (that does NOT include maples). (see below)
2. Use fresh, standard, inorganic bonsai soil and NO soil from
an old compost pile, the garden or elsewhere "in nature." (You
CAN sterilize old bonsai soil, but there's no guarantee that you
will get everything.)
3. Practice clean, safe bonsai; keep tables free of rotting
leaves, spilled soil and the other "stuff" that comes from
growing plants. Use clean tools (wash in alcohol if they are
used on a suspicious tree).
4. Do not let soil stay wet/soggy/cold for excessive lengths of
time. (With weather like we've had the last 2 weeks, THAT is
impossible!!!)
5. Give the trees as much sun as possible (as much as they can
take).
6. Use Nitrogen rich fertilizer.

Or, don't fret TOO much. Do as much of the above as you can,
then roll with the punches if something happens -- and chances
are that it will not. ------- MY preference.

A healthy plant (from start to finish) is less likely to have
insect pests OR plant disease.

Resistant plants include: Archostaphylos, Betula, Buxus,
Carpinus, Ceanothus, Cornus, Crataegus, Eucalyptus, Fagus,
Gleditsia, Ilex, Juglans, Liquidamber, Malus, Morus, Nerium,
Platanus, Quercus, Salix, Tilia, MOST conifers, and Monocots like
bamboo, etc. (Ortho Home Garden Problem Solver)

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Only where
people have learned to appreciate and cherish the landscape and
its living cover will they treat it with the care and respect it
should have - Paul Bigelow Sears.

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++