Hi guys,
the garden is going along really well. several days (ok, months) of rain and
not to wicked hot sunshine really helped the transplant shock.

lost a few things, maybe because of the bedding from the cattle auction place
(I posted about that about a week ago). It wasn't ready yet, and so was
probably a little "hot" and fried a couple things, but I think the rain has
helped keep the ammonia and nitrogen burn down.

anyways, I have some habeneros that looked good at the plant shop, a little
yellow, which I thought was just having 14 inch tall plants in those little 3
packs. neglect, not enough soil.....

anyways, the "transplant shock" that I thought was the problem, doesn't seem to
be the problem at all. they are going on a week now, and other than a yellow
color on the leaves, they look fine.

my garden is on its' first year, so the soil isn't great, but not really too
bad either. I added blood and bone meal to the holes before planting (for some
gentle nitrogen and potassium) but am a little bit scared of trying to use some
artificial 20 20 20 on it (like some Peter's). I was thinking, maybe at half
strength or even quarter strength I could see if it helps, then dose it up
from there?

the only thing I have done to try and help is to add a manure tea to the plants
(from my fiance's rabbit, Madam Bun E. Bunns) that was aged for some time. the
rest of the plants seemed to love it, but the damn peppers just won't come
back!

the drainage is fine, the pH looks ok, i'm out of ideas here.

any help would be appreciated. Any other pepper heads out there who have a
trick I might use?

later
john

ps, the cayennes and ceranos look awesome, and they are in the same bed, so the
soil seems like it should work with habeneros too. What's the deal with that?
do they need anything special to flourish?

also, I understand that peppers like a little boost after and during fruiting,
what do you guys think is the best way? I'm trying to keep stuff more or less
organic, but with a late start and a new plot, I think maybe some cheating is
in order on this one. (we have a saying here in alabama "win if you can, lose
if you must, but ALWAYS cheat!)

When last we left our heros, on 14 Jun 2003 15:04:22 GMT,
(JohnDKestell) scribbled:

any help would be appreciated. Any other pepper heads out there who have a
trick I might use?

1. I think you're diddling with your nitrogen levels too much.
Consider boosting the iron or using a touch of epsom salts.
We have had a tremendous amount of rain here in South
Carolina, too, and I found mine needed a iron boost to get
them going, and mine were lush and green when I put them
in the ground.

2. If they were that overgrown at the nursery, it might take
a bit of time for them to develop the root system they need
to support a plant of that size. Some peppers never do as
well as expected if they are allowed to become grossly pot
bound. It's not transplant shock, you're seeing.

ps, the cayennes and ceranos look awesome, and they are in the same bed, so the
soil seems like it should work with habeneros too. What's the deal with that?
do they need anything special to flourish?

In my considerable experience with different types of peppers,
C.chinense of any variety is always the hardiest. Most of them
are long season peppers, though, and they do grow a little slower
than the early season peppers.


also, I understand that peppers like a little boost after and during fruiting,
what do you guys think is the best way? I'm trying to keep stuff more or less
organic, but with a late start and a new plot, I think maybe some cheating is
in order on this one. (we have a saying here in alabama "win if you can, lose
if you must, but ALWAYS cheat!)

There are a variety of organic fertilizers on the market. Check
locally to see if there is an organic nursery or garden center
or do a Google search and order on line.


Pam



--
"Maybe you'd like to ask the Wizard for a heart."
"ElissaAnn"

JohnDKestell said:

my garden is on its' first year, so the soil isn't great, but not really too
bad either. I added blood and bone meal to the holes before planting (for some
gentle nitrogen and potassium)

Blood meal is pretty strong organic nitrogen; it is capable of burning plants.
Bone meal provides gentle *phosphorous* along with calcium.

Peppers appreciate a goodly supply of potassium.

but am a little bit scared of trying to use some
artificial 20 20 20 on it (like some Peter's). I was thinking, maybe at half
strength or even quarter strength I could see if it helps, then dose it up
from there?

I'd say at this point see if you can get yourself some seaweed meal (potassium,
micronutrients) or some liquified or dry powdered seaweed (Maxicrop is the brand
I use) and foliar feed the plants.

What I do, growing peppers:
My peppers get set in a bed that's had some compost and alfalfa pellets worked
in a week or so earlier. Each planting hole gets a dose of Tomato-tone (from
Espoma) workd into the bottom. Later in the season when the weather warms
up, they get mulched with shredded leaves mixed with cocoashells and occasional
foliar feeds with Maxicrop. The plants are always lush and loaded with peppers.

I set 18 plants in a roughly 4' x 8' bed. Each one has one of those little 3-hoop
tomato cages set around them. If they didn't, they'd be falling over with the
weight of the peppers.

I experimented one year comparing compost mulch vs. leaf or leaf and cocoashell
mulch. Peppers with shredded leaf or leaf+cocoashell mulch did better than those
with screened compost as mulch. (Aside: corn and eggplants prefered compost
mulch.)
--
Pat in Plymouth MI

Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
(attributed to Don Marti)

In article , says...


JohnDKestell said:

my garden is on its' first year, so the soil isn't great, but not really too
bad either. I added blood and bone meal to the holes before planting (for
some
gentle nitrogen and potassium)

Blood meal is pretty strong organic nitrogen; it is capable of burning plants.

Bone meal provides gentle *phosphorous* along with calcium.

Peppers appreciate a goodly supply of potassium.

but am a little bit scared of trying to use some
artificial 20 20 20 on it (like some Peter's). I was thinking, maybe at half
strength or even quarter strength I could see if it helps, then dose it up
from there?

I'd say at this point see if you can get yourself some seaweed meal
(potassium,
micronutrients) or some liquified or dry powdered seaweed (Maxicrop is the
brand
I use) and foliar feed the plants.

What I do, growing peppers:
My peppers get set in a bed that's had some compost and alfalfa pellets worked
in a week or so earlier. Each planting hole gets a dose of Tomato-tone (from
Espoma) workd into the bottom. Later in the season when the weather warms
up, they get mulched with shredded leaves mixed with cocoashells and
occasional
foliar feeds with Maxicrop. The plants are always lush and loaded with
peppers.

I set 18 plants in a roughly 4' x 8' bed. Each one has one of those little
3-hoop
tomato cages set around them. If they didn't, they'd be falling over with the
weight of the peppers.

I experimented one year comparing compost mulch vs. leaf or leaf and
cocoashell
mulch. Peppers with shredded leaf or leaf+cocoashell mulch did better than
those
with screened compost as mulch. (Aside: corn and eggplants prefered compost
mulch.)
--
Pat in Plymouth MI

Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
(attributed to Don Marti)

Just wanted to let you know that I am also an Alabamian, Im growing habenaros
also for the second time. The first year my leaves were very small and the
plants were a little anorexic, This year I've been using the epsom salt spray
and also been feeding them with dolomitic limestone a few tablespoons around
each plant and watering it in, My plants have really taken off, now leaves are
very large and shinny, never seen any of them look so good. Hope this helps in
your case also .