How about some recommendations for preparing a tomato bed for next
spring's planting?
Which nutrients to add to the soil, when, etc.??
Thanks for any advice.

How about some recommendations for preparing a tomato bed for next
spring's planting?
Which nutrients to add to the soil, when, etc.??
Thanks for any advice.


From: Jack Melano hos

Get a soil test now. Once you know what you have now you will be able to
determine what you need to add, For example if your soil is too acid then the
winter is the best time to add ground limestone to correct.it and there are
other amendments that can be added now that will build a store of essential
elements and also amendments that can improve the texture--you can do a lot of
things in the off season that will lead to a better season next year.If you
live in the US contact your local extension service for soil test help,

Frankhartx wrote:

How about some recommendations for preparing a tomato bed for next
spring's planting?
Which nutrients to add to the soil, when, etc.??
Thanks for any advice.


From: Jack Melano hos

Get a soil test now. Once you know what you have now you will be able to
determine what you need to add, For example if your soil is too acid then
the winter is the best time to add ground limestone to correct.it and
there are other amendments that can be added now that will build a store
of essential elements and also amendments that can improve the
texture--you can do a lot of
things in the off season that will lead to a better season next year.If
you live in the US contact your local extension service for soil test
help,

That is a 100% correct answer. If you get antsy while waiting for a soil
test to come back, add compost, plant rhizobacteria-treated peas or beans
(will boost available nitrogen in the soil) as a cover crop. Till-in or mow
and leave on the surface when cold-killed.dig shallow (18") trenches to
fill in with kitchen scraps through the winter -- cover with straw until
spring and then backfill with dirt and plant where the trench was or else
plant between them if you a squeamish.

But, above all else, get at least a DIY pH test and preferably a full-tilt
soil laboratory analysis. The money you spend will likely be recouped (and
then some) in the money you save by not buying unneeded supplements and the
increased production you will gain by applying the amendments your soil
actually _does_ need. You may even find that your soil needs nothing more
than that quick planting of peas. (Treat the seed, sprinkle on worked
ground, rake in.)


Bill
--
Zone 5b (Detroit, MI)
I do not post my address to news groups.