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#16
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Peat Moss Substitute?
In article ,
Beecrofter wrote: "KK" wrote in message ... Wow, I would have thought it would have been more than that... so would 2" be 10%? or doesn't it work like that? It's now apparent that I just haven't put on enough each year even though it seemed like a bunch. This fall it's going to get "loaded" up with what ever I can find and tilled in and I'll probably add a little nitrogen to the mix. Thanks for all the info... Mde too, but I bet it's by weight. Another thing to do is continually compost in your garden pathways, think a foot or so of woodchips and use them to cover grass clippings,weeds and kitchen wastes between the growing areas in your garden.That way it still looks neat and clean. Come spring you can sift the new humous into your growing areas and allow the earthworms to till it in for you. Then you refiill the paths. Using a deep mulch on the growing areas is another technique because it enriches and loosens the soil as it decays. 6" or more with the mulch pulled back wherever you put a plant. Keep an ear out for a barnload of spoiled hay. Here on my 0.23 of an acre it was a way of making large amounts of compost in a very small area and not losing growing space. Cover crops work well also, things like buckwheat can give you 3 or 4 crops in a season to till under and choke out the weeds at the same time. I think a prior message claimes that grass, leaves and wood chips would draw nitrogen. Did I get that right ? For a garden in 6b zone is there any crop that's worth planting after the last tomato has been picked ? -- Al Dykes ----------- adykes at p a n i x . c o m |
#17
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Peat Moss Substitute?
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#18
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Peat Moss Substitute?
I think a prior message claimes that grass, leaves and wood chips would draw nitrogen. Did I get that right ? For a garden in 6b zone is there any crop that's worth planting after the last tomato has been picked ? Supplemental nitrogen can easily be added to make up for any shortfall the current crop requires. If you have a nurse bed of lettuce and cruciferous vegetables you can transplant them into the tomato plot for a fall crop. Time for radishes from seed and perhaps mesclun. A few bales of hay and some plastic sheeting and you can extend the growth and the harvest well into winter. |
#19
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Peat Moss Substitute?
"KK" wrote in message ...
Wow, I would have thought it would have been more than that... so would 2" be 10%? or doesn't it work like that? It's now apparent that I just haven't put on enough each year even though it seemed like a bunch. This fall it's going to get "loaded" up with what ever I can find and tilled in and I'll probably add a little nitrogen to the mix. Thanks for all the info... Mde too, but I bet it's by weight. Another thing to do is continually compost in your garden pathways, think a foot or so of woodchips and use them to cover grass clippings,weeds and kitchen wastes between the growing areas in your garden.That way it still looks neat and clean. Come spring you can sift the new humous into your growing areas and allow the earthworms to till it in for you. Then you refiill the paths. Using a deep mulch on the growing areas is another technique because it enriches and loosens the soil as it decays. 6" or more with the mulch pulled back wherever you put a plant. Keep an ear out for a barnload of spoiled hay. Here on my 0.23 of an acre it was a way of making large amounts of compost in a very small area and not losing growing space. Cover crops work well also, things like buckwheat can give you 3 or 4 crops in a season to till under and choke out the weeds at the same time. See if any of Ruth Stout's books are in your local library she was a mulch gardener. "How to have a green Thumb Without an Aching Back" was one of her's. Make your local library get you a copy via interlibrary loan. Don't let any organic material leave your property . |
#20
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Peat Moss Substitute?
In article ,
Beecrofter wrote: "KK" wrote in message ... Wow, I would have thought it would have been more than that... so would 2" be 10%? or doesn't it work like that? It's now apparent that I just haven't put on enough each year even though it seemed like a bunch. This fall it's going to get "loaded" up with what ever I can find and tilled in and I'll probably add a little nitrogen to the mix. Thanks for all the info... Mde too, but I bet it's by weight. Another thing to do is continually compost in your garden pathways, think a foot or so of woodchips and use them to cover grass clippings,weeds and kitchen wastes between the growing areas in your garden.That way it still looks neat and clean. Come spring you can sift the new humous into your growing areas and allow the earthworms to till it in for you. Then you refiill the paths. Using a deep mulch on the growing areas is another technique because it enriches and loosens the soil as it decays. 6" or more with the mulch pulled back wherever you put a plant. Keep an ear out for a barnload of spoiled hay. Here on my 0.23 of an acre it was a way of making large amounts of compost in a very small area and not losing growing space. Cover crops work well also, things like buckwheat can give you 3 or 4 crops in a season to till under and choke out the weeds at the same time. I think a prior message claimes that grass, leaves and wood chips would draw nitrogen. Did I get that right ? For a garden in 6b zone is there any crop that's worth planting after the last tomato has been picked ? -- Al Dykes ----------- adykes at p a n i x . c o m |
#21
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Peat Moss Substitute?
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