| Page 1 of 2 | 1 | 2 |
|
|
75 or 90 for planted?
Hello All -
First Id like to say, THANK YOU - You've all been so helpful the last few days. Ive decided to go with a bigger tank then the 29 that i currently own. Id like a 75 or 90 from all-glass. Which of these is better for the planted aquarium in yoru optinion, and where is the best tank for my buck? any mail orders, or something to that effect? Thanks In Advance! Dustin |
75 or 90 for planted?
Id like a 75 or 90 from all-glass. Which of these is better for the planted
aquarium in yoru optinion, and where is the best tank for my buck? any mail orders, or something to that effect? Ordinarily, bigger is better, but for a planted tank, I'd go with the 75 gallon. The 90 and the 75 have the same "footprint." The only difference is the 75 is 21" high, and the 90 is just over 25" high. A planted tank deeper than 24" can be difficult. That depth is hard to light adequately. (You wouldn't think only a few inches would make a difference, but it does, because light intensity falls exponentially with distance.) A planted tank also requires constant maintenance, and if the tank is that deep, it will be difficult (unless you have really long arms!). I've heard of people who accidentally poisoned all their fish, because they reached into a deep tank without showering first, and their underarm deodorant got into the tank. As for price...mail order for a tank this size is not economical. The shipping will kill you. Your best bet is probably to order it from a chain like PetCo. The big chains use tanks as "loss leaders," selling them at a loss in hopes that they'll make it up by selling you fish, accessories, etc. Call around your LFSs and ask, but IME, the small local shops will all charge hundreds of dollars more than the big chains. The local shops around here all wanted $700 to $800 for an All-Glass 75 gallon economy tank and stand. PetCo asked $325 for tank, stand, and glass canopy top. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
I have a 135 gallon tank that is 24 inches high. Leigh, as usual, gives
excellent adivce. She (I hope you are a she Leigh-- if not then I appologise in advance..) is right about the light, though I find that even though its tougher to light the bottom of the tank, 25 inches is not insurmoutable-- especially if you are going to terrace. In addition, I personally think that less than 24 inches looks a little funny with a canopy. You may (or may not) choose to place a canopy over the top of the tank-- but assess how you think it may look with the shallower tank in the event you do want a canopy. Keep in mind also that there may be plants that you want to keep that get tall. It may be nice to have certain sections of the tank that are deeper than others. Just keep in mind that you may have trouble with high light plants in the deep areas. Certainly the "long arms" issue is real also. If you are a small person, then you may want to avoid buying a tank that is too deep for you to reach into. I know my wife would have a hard time reaching the bottom of my 135 gallon tank. I do not have a problem with this depth-- though any deeper would become a hassel. In summay, my cutoff would be about 24 inches-- not 21 inches. 25 inches may be problematic, but its worthy of careful consideration. For what its worth, that is my 2 cents. -Bruce Geist LeighMo wrote in message ... Id like a 75 or 90 from all-glass. Which of these is better for the planted aquarium in yoru optinion, and where is the best tank for my buck? any orders, or something to that effect? Ordinarily, bigger is better, but for a planted tank, I'd go with the 75 gallon. The 90 and the 75 have the same "footprint." The only difference is the 75 is 21" high, and the 90 is just over 25" high. A planted tank deeper than 24" can be difficult. That depth is hard to light adequately. (You wouldn't think only a few inches would make a difference, but it does, because light intensity falls exponentially with distance.) A planted tank also requires constant maintenance, and if the tank is that deep, it will be difficult (unless you have really long arms!). I've heard of people who accidentally poisoned all their fish, because they reached into a deep tank without showering first, and their underarm deodorant got into the tank. As for price...mail order for a tank this size is not economical. The shipping will kill you. Your best bet is probably to order it from a chain like PetCo. The big chains use tanks as "loss leaders," selling them at a loss in hopes that they'll make it up by selling you fish, accessories, etc. Call around your LFSs and ask, but IME, the small local shops will all charge hundreds of dollars more than the big chains. The local shops around here all wanted $700 to $800 for an All-Glass 75 gallon economy tank and stand. PetCo asked $325 for tank, stand, and glass canopy top. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
Thanks for the input you two :)
I bought a 125 gallon today on sale at the lfs, I got a better discount since I am friends with the manager, 599.00 Im guessing that is a good price :) Any suggestions for lighting this for plant growth? :) Thanks! "Bruce Geist" wrote in message ... I have a 135 gallon tank that is 24 inches high. Leigh, as usual, gives excellent adivce. She (I hope you are a she Leigh-- if not then I appologise in advance..) is right about the light, though I find that even though its tougher to light the bottom of the tank, 25 inches is not insurmoutable-- especially if you are going to terrace. In addition, I personally think that less than 24 inches looks a little funny with a canopy. You may (or may not) choose to place a canopy over the top of the tank-- but assess how you think it may look with the shallower tank in the event you do want a canopy. Keep in mind also that there may be plants that you want to keep that get tall. It may be nice to have certain sections of the tank that are deeper than others. Just keep in mind that you may have trouble with high light plants in the deep areas. Certainly the "long arms" issue is real also. If you are a small person, then you may want to avoid buying a tank that is too deep for you to reach into. I know my wife would have a hard time reaching the bottom of my 135 gallon tank. I do not have a problem with this depth-- though any deeper would become a hassel. In summay, my cutoff would be about 24 inches-- not 21 inches. 25 inches may be problematic, but its worthy of careful consideration. For what its worth, that is my 2 cents. -Bruce Geist LeighMo wrote in message ... Id like a 75 or 90 from all-glass. Which of these is better for the planted aquarium in yoru optinion, and where is the best tank for my buck? any orders, or something to that effect? Ordinarily, bigger is better, but for a planted tank, I'd go with the 75 gallon. The 90 and the 75 have the same "footprint." The only difference is the 75 is 21" high, and the 90 is just over 25" high. A planted tank deeper than 24" can be difficult. That depth is hard to light adequately. (You wouldn't think only a few inches would make a difference, but it does, because light intensity falls exponentially with distance.) A planted tank also requires constant maintenance, and if the tank is that deep, it will be difficult (unless you have really long arms!). I've heard of people who accidentally poisoned all their fish, because they reached into a deep tank without showering first, and their underarm deodorant got into the tank. As for price...mail order for a tank this size is not economical. The shipping will kill you. Your best bet is probably to order it from a chain like PetCo. The big chains use tanks as "loss leaders," selling them at a loss in hopes that they'll make it up by selling you fish, accessories, etc. Call around your LFSs and ask, but IME, the small local shops will all charge hundreds of dollars more than the big chains. The local shops around here all wanted $700 to $800 for an All-Glass 75 gallon economy tank and stand. PetCo asked $325 for tank, stand, and glass canopy top. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
Congratulations on your new toy!
Sounds like fun. It is good that your original question wasn't 125 or 150 because then you'd end up with 225 :) -- Jenya Computers are useless. They can only give answers.-Pablo Picasso "Dustin" wrote in message ... Thanks for the input you two :) I bought a 125 gallon today on sale at the lfs, I got a better discount since I am friends with the manager, 599.00 Im guessing that is a good price :) Any suggestions for lighting this for plant growth? :) Thanks! "Bruce Geist" wrote in message ... I have a 135 gallon tank that is 24 inches high. Leigh, as usual, gives excellent adivce. She (I hope you are a she Leigh-- if not then I appologise in advance..) is right about the light, though I find that even though its tougher to light the bottom of the tank, 25 inches is not insurmoutable-- especially if you are going to terrace. In addition, I personally think that less than 24 inches looks a little funny with a canopy. You may (or may not) choose to place a canopy over the top of the tank-- but assess how you think it may look with the shallower tank in the event you do want a canopy. Keep in mind also that there may be plants that you want to keep that get tall. It may be nice to have certain sections of the tank that are deeper than others. Just keep in mind that you may have trouble with high light plants in the deep areas. Certainly the "long arms" issue is real also. If you are a small person, then you may want to avoid buying a tank that is too deep for you to reach into. I know my wife would have a hard time reaching the bottom of my 135 gallon tank. I do not have a problem with this depth-- though any deeper would become a hassel. In summay, my cutoff would be about 24 inches-- not 21 inches. 25 inches may be problematic, but its worthy of careful consideration. For what its worth, that is my 2 cents. -Bruce Geist LeighMo wrote in message ... Id like a 75 or 90 from all-glass. Which of these is better for the planted aquarium in yoru optinion, and where is the best tank for my buck? any orders, or something to that effect? Ordinarily, bigger is better, but for a planted tank, I'd go with the 75 gallon. The 90 and the 75 have the same "footprint." The only difference is the 75 is 21" high, and the 90 is just over 25" high. A planted tank deeper than 24" can be difficult. That depth is hard to light adequately. (You wouldn't think only a few inches would make a difference, but it does, because light intensity falls exponentially with distance.) A planted tank also requires constant maintenance, and if the tank is that deep, it will be difficult (unless you have really long arms!). I've heard of people who accidentally poisoned all their fish, because they reached into a deep tank without showering first, and their underarm deodorant got into the tank. As for price...mail order for a tank this size is not economical. The shipping will kill you. Your best bet is probably to order it from a chain like PetCo. The big chains use tanks as "loss leaders," selling them at a loss in hopes that they'll make it up by selling you fish, accessories, etc. Call around your LFSs and ask, but IME, the small local shops will all charge hundreds of dollars more than the big chains. The local shops around here all wanted $700 to $800 for an All-Glass 75 gallon economy tank and stand. PetCo asked $325 for tank, stand, and glass canopy top. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
Haha I KNOW - I go overboard - Oh well - Thank God For Master Card :)
"Jenya" wrote in message ... Congratulations on your new toy! Sounds like fun. It is good that your original question wasn't 125 or 150 because then you'd end up with 225 :) -- Jenya Computers are useless. They can only give answers.-Pablo Picasso "Dustin" wrote in message ... Thanks for the input you two :) I bought a 125 gallon today on sale at the lfs, I got a better discount since I am friends with the manager, 599.00 Im guessing that is a good price :) Any suggestions for lighting this for plant growth? :) Thanks! "Bruce Geist" wrote in message ... I have a 135 gallon tank that is 24 inches high. Leigh, as usual, gives excellent adivce. She (I hope you are a she Leigh-- if not then I appologise in advance..) is right about the light, though I find that even though its tougher to light the bottom of the tank, 25 inches is not insurmoutable-- especially if you are going to terrace. In addition, I personally think that less than 24 inches looks a little funny with a canopy. You may (or may not) choose to place a canopy over the top of the tank-- but assess how you think it may look with the shallower tank in the event you do want a canopy. Keep in mind also that there may be plants that you want to keep that get tall. It may be nice to have certain sections of the tank that are deeper than others. Just keep in mind that you may have trouble with high light plants in the deep areas. Certainly the "long arms" issue is real also. If you are a small person, then you may want to avoid buying a tank that is too deep for you to reach into. I know my wife would have a hard time reaching the bottom of my 135 gallon tank. I do not have a problem with this depth-- though any deeper would become a hassel. In summay, my cutoff would be about 24 inches-- not 21 inches. 25 inches may be problematic, but its worthy of careful consideration. For what its worth, that is my 2 cents. -Bruce Geist LeighMo wrote in message ... Id like a 75 or 90 from all-glass. Which of these is better for the planted aquarium in yoru optinion, and where is the best tank for my buck? any orders, or something to that effect? Ordinarily, bigger is better, but for a planted tank, I'd go with the 75 gallon. The 90 and the 75 have the same "footprint." The only difference is the 75 is 21" high, and the 90 is just over 25" high. A planted tank deeper than 24" can be difficult. That depth is hard to light adequately. (You wouldn't think only a few inches would make a difference, but it does, because light intensity falls exponentially with distance.) A planted tank also requires constant maintenance, and if the tank is that deep, it will be difficult (unless you have really long arms!). I've heard of people who accidentally poisoned all their fish, because they reached into a deep tank without showering first, and their underarm deodorant got into the tank. As for price...mail order for a tank this size is not economical. The shipping will kill you. Your best bet is probably to order it from a chain like PetCo. The big chains use tanks as "loss leaders," selling them at a loss in hopes that they'll make it up by selling you fish, accessories, etc. Call around your LFSs and ask, but IME, the small local shops will all charge hundreds of dollars more than the big chains. The local shops around here all wanted $700 to $800 for an All-Glass 75 gallon economy tank and stand. PetCo asked $325 for tank, stand, and glass canopy top. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
Jeepers. I hope that's not american $... that's a heck of a lot of $ to
spend on a 125g tank. You could've easily made your own for a small tiny itsy fraction of that cost. "Dustin" wrote in : Thanks for the input you two :) I bought a 125 gallon today on sale at the lfs, I got a better discount since I am friends with the manager, 599.00 Im guessing that is a good price :) Any suggestions for lighting this for plant growth? :) Thanks! "Bruce Geist" wrote in message ... I have a 135 gallon tank that is 24 inches high. Leigh, as usual, gives excellent adivce. She (I hope you are a she Leigh-- if not then I appologise in advance..) is right about the light, though I find that even though its tougher to light the bottom of the tank, 25 inches is not insurmoutable-- especially if you are going to terrace. In addition, I personally think that less than 24 inches looks a little funny with a canopy. You may (or may not) choose to place a canopy over the top of the tank-- but assess how you think it may look with the shallower tank in the event you do want a canopy. Keep in mind also that there may be plants that you want to keep that get tall. It may be nice to have certain sections of the tank that are deeper than others. Just keep in mind that you may have trouble with high light plants in the deep areas. Certainly the "long arms" issue is real also. If you are a small person, then you may want to avoid buying a tank that is too deep for you to reach into. I know my wife would have a hard time reaching the bottom of my 135 gallon tank. I do not have a problem with this depth-- though any deeper would become a hassel. In summay, my cutoff would be about 24 inches-- not 21 inches. 25 inches may be problematic, but its worthy of careful consideration. For what its worth, that is my 2 cents. -Bruce Geist LeighMo wrote in message ... Id like a 75 or 90 from all-glass. Which of these is better for the planted aquarium in yoru optinion, and where is the best tank for my buck? any orders, or something to that effect? Ordinarily, bigger is better, but for a planted tank, I'd go with the 75 gallon. The 90 and the 75 have the same "footprint." The only difference is the 75 is 21" high, and the 90 is just over 25" high. A planted tank deeper than 24" can be difficult. That depth is hard to light adequately. (You wouldn't think only a few inches would make a difference, but it does, because light intensity falls exponentially with distance.) A planted tank also requires constant maintenance, and if the tank is that deep, it will be difficult (unless you have really long arms!). I've heard of people who accidentally poisoned all their fish, because they reached into a deep tank without showering first, and their underarm deodorant got into the tank. As for price...mail order for a tank this size is not economical. The shipping will kill you. Your best bet is probably to order it from a chain like PetCo. The big chains use tanks as "loss leaders," selling them at a loss in hopes that they'll make it up by selling you fish, accessories, etc. Call around your LFSs and ask, but IME, the small local shops will all charge hundreds of dollars more than the big chains. The local shops around here all wanted $700 to $800 for an All-Glass 75 gallon economy tank and stand. PetCo asked $325 for tank, stand, and glass canopy top. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
Yea thats american, hood / canapy / solid oak stand / tank.
Bad price? "Moose" wrote in message .159... Jeepers. I hope that's not american $... that's a heck of a lot of $ to spend on a 125g tank. You could've easily made your own for a small tiny itsy fraction of that cost. "Dustin" wrote in : Thanks for the input you two :) I bought a 125 gallon today on sale at the lfs, I got a better discount since I am friends with the manager, 599.00 Im guessing that is a good price :) Any suggestions for lighting this for plant growth? :) Thanks! "Bruce Geist" wrote in message ... I have a 135 gallon tank that is 24 inches high. Leigh, as usual, gives excellent adivce. She (I hope you are a she Leigh-- if not then I appologise in advance..) is right about the light, though I find that even though its tougher to light the bottom of the tank, 25 inches is not insurmoutable-- especially if you are going to terrace. In addition, I personally think that less than 24 inches looks a little funny with a canopy. You may (or may not) choose to place a canopy over the top of the tank-- but assess how you think it may look with the shallower tank in the event you do want a canopy. Keep in mind also that there may be plants that you want to keep that get tall. It may be nice to have certain sections of the tank that are deeper than others. Just keep in mind that you may have trouble with high light plants in the deep areas. Certainly the "long arms" issue is real also. If you are a small person, then you may want to avoid buying a tank that is too deep for you to reach into. I know my wife would have a hard time reaching the bottom of my 135 gallon tank. I do not have a problem with this depth-- though any deeper would become a hassel. In summay, my cutoff would be about 24 inches-- not 21 inches. 25 inches may be problematic, but its worthy of careful consideration. For what its worth, that is my 2 cents. -Bruce Geist LeighMo wrote in message ... Id like a 75 or 90 from all-glass. Which of these is better for the planted aquarium in yoru optinion, and where is the best tank for my buck? any orders, or something to that effect? Ordinarily, bigger is better, but for a planted tank, I'd go with the 75 gallon. The 90 and the 75 have the same "footprint." The only difference is the 75 is 21" high, and the 90 is just over 25" high. A planted tank deeper than 24" can be difficult. That depth is hard to light adequately. (You wouldn't think only a few inches would make a difference, but it does, because light intensity falls exponentially with distance.) A planted tank also requires constant maintenance, and if the tank is that deep, it will be difficult (unless you have really long arms!). I've heard of people who accidentally poisoned all their fish, because they reached into a deep tank without showering first, and their underarm deodorant got into the tank. As for price...mail order for a tank this size is not economical. The shipping will kill you. Your best bet is probably to order it from a chain like PetCo. The big chains use tanks as "loss leaders," selling them at a loss in hopes that they'll make it up by selling you fish, accessories, etc. Call around your LFSs and ask, but IME, the small local shops will all charge hundreds of dollars more than the big chains. The local shops around here all wanted $700 to $800 for an All-Glass 75 gallon economy tank and stand. PetCo asked $325 for tank, stand, and glass canopy top. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
On Sun, 29 Dec 2002 02:38:34 -0800, "Dustin"
wrote: Yea thats american, hood / canapy / solid oak stand / tank. Bad price? Sounds like a reasonable price to me. If you are into DIY, then it's possible to build your own stand and canopy and save a few bucks. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
75 or 90 for planted?
Moose wrote ... You could've easily made your own ... I've never attempted to build a big tank because of the bracing - as far as I'm concerned, if I spend a hundred bucks on a tank, what I'm really paying for is that molded plastic frame. Does anyone have a link to a good DIY plan for a big tank? kush "You can't have everything - where would you put it?" |
75 or 90 for planted?
I bought a 125 gallon today on sale at the lfs,
Congratulations! A 125 is a nice size for plants, IMO. Six feet long, 18" wide, just under 2 feet deep. With this size, you can use just about any lighting you want. Though, price-wise, flourescent tubes might make the most sense. Are you getting a compressed CO2 system for the tank, too? If not, it's probably best to keep your lighting levels down at around 2 wpg. 125 gallon is sort of large for DIY! Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
The stand and hood make it a little less ugly. I thought you were talking
just about the tank. I still prefer the DIY method though... Come January, I'll get to set up 3x100g tanks w/ rack system for nothing more than time. :) Oh, and I'll have to buy some silicon. And a couple of valves probably. But it's not going to cost me thousands like it would if I bought it from a store :) "Dustin" wrote in news:v0t9p199urvoa8 @corp.supernews.com: Yea thats american, hood / canapy / solid oak stand / tank. Bad price? "Moose" wrote in message .159... Jeepers. I hope that's not american $... that's a heck of a lot of $ to spend on a 125g tank. You could've easily made your own for a small tiny itsy fraction of that cost. "Dustin" wrote in : Thanks for the input you two :) I bought a 125 gallon today on sale at the lfs, I got a better discount since I am friends with the manager, 599.00 Im guessing that is a good price :) Any suggestions for lighting this for plant growth? :) Thanks! "Bruce Geist" wrote in message ... I have a 135 gallon tank that is 24 inches high. Leigh, as usual, gives excellent adivce. She (I hope you are a she Leigh-- if not then I appologise in advance..) is right about the light, though I find that even though its tougher to light the bottom of the tank, 25 inches is not insurmoutable-- especially if you are going to terrace. In addition, I personally think that less than 24 inches looks a little funny with a canopy. You may (or may not) choose to place a canopy over the top of the tank-- but assess how you think it may look with the shallower tank in the event you do want a canopy. Keep in mind also that there may be plants that you want to keep that get tall. It may be nice to have certain sections of the tank that are deeper than others. Just keep in mind that you may have trouble with high light plants in the deep areas. Certainly the "long arms" issue is real also. If you are a small person, then you may want to avoid buying a tank that is too deep for you to reach into. I know my wife would have a hard time reaching the bottom of my 135 gallon tank. I do not have a problem with this depth-- though any deeper would become a hassel. In summay, my cutoff would be about 24 inches-- not 21 inches. 25 inches may be problematic, but its worthy of careful consideration. For what its worth, that is my 2 cents. -Bruce Geist LeighMo wrote in message ... Id like a 75 or 90 from all-glass. Which of these is better for the planted aquarium in yoru optinion, and where is the best tank for my buck? any orders, or something to that effect? Ordinarily, bigger is better, but for a planted tank, I'd go with the 75 gallon. The 90 and the 75 have the same "footprint." The only difference is the 75 is 21" high, and the 90 is just over 25" high. A planted tank deeper than 24" can be difficult. That depth is hard to light adequately. (You wouldn't think only a few inches would make a difference, but it does, because light intensity falls exponentially with distance.) A planted tank also requires constant maintenance, and if the tank is that deep, it will be difficult (unless you have really long arms!). I've heard of people who accidentally poisoned all their fish, because they reached into a deep tank without showering first, and their underarm deodorant got into the tank. As for price...mail order for a tank this size is not economical. The shipping will kill you. Your best bet is probably to order it from a chain like PetCo. The big chains use tanks as "loss leaders," selling them at a loss in hopes that they'll make it up by selling you fish, accessories, etc. Call around your LFSs and ask, but IME, the small local shops will all charge hundreds of dollars more than the big chains. The local shops around here all wanted $700 to $800 for an All-Glass 75 gallon economy tank and stand. PetCo asked $325 for tank, stand, and glass canopy top. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
I agree, a lot of the cost is the plastic, but they also use thicker
glass than you really need to, as the plastic doesn't add enough strength. As I said in another post, I'll be making some big tanks in a couple of weeks here. They'll be 3/8" glass with angle iron frames, and I plan on fully photo-documenting the whole process. I'll post a link here later if you like. "kush" wrote in : Moose wrote ... You could've easily made your own ... I've never attempted to build a big tank because of the bracing - as far as I'm concerned, if I spend a hundred bucks on a tank, what I'm really paying for is that molded plastic frame. Does anyone have a link to a good DIY plan for a big tank? kush "You can't have everything - where would you put it?" |
75 or 90 for planted?
Im planning on doing a Co2 setup, yes. If so, what types of lighting would
I need. I would like 3 watts per gallon - or close to it. That is alot of watts, but should I go with ahsupply's compact florescent, or just the regular 4 or 6 ft shop type florescent? Im excited haha :) Thanks Everyone for your input :) "LeighMo" wrote in message ... I bought a 125 gallon today on sale at the lfs, Congratulations! A 125 is a nice size for plants, IMO. Six feet long, 18" wide, just under 2 feet deep. With this size, you can use just about any lighting you want. Though, price-wise, flourescent tubes might make the most sense. Are you getting a compressed CO2 system for the tank, too? If not, it's probably best to keep your lighting levels down at around 2 wpg. 125 gallon is sort of large for DIY! Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
On Sun, 29 Dec 2002 10:43:54 -0800, "Dustin"
wrote: Im planning on doing a Co2 setup, yes. If so, what types of lighting would I need. I would like 3 watts per gallon - or close to it. That is alot of watts, but should I go with ahsupply's compact florescent, or just the regular 4 or 6 ft shop type florescent? Im excited haha :) Thanks Everyone for your input :) I would go with AH Supply kits. The 96 watt kits would fit just fine on this tank. Say four kits for 384 watts, that would give you over three watts per gallon, and that is a HUGE amount of light for a large tank. Many large tanks only run about two watts per gallon. |
75 or 90 for planted?
Im planning on doing a Co2 setup, yes. If so, what types of lighting would
I need. I would like 3 watts per gallon - or close to it. You do anything -- metal halide, flourescent, PCF. 3 wpg is a lot of light for a tank this size -- more than it would be for a smaller tank. Many people find 2 wpg is more than enough for a tank over 100 gallons. Make sure your CO2 system is up and running before you turn all that light on! PCFs from AH Supply would work well and be pretty easy, but if it were my tank, I think I'd go with regular flourescent lights. It would be cheaper, and you'd have more flexibility that way. If you wanted to start out with less light until you get more experience, you could, just by leaving a few tubes out. If you need to reduce the lighting for some reason (going to be away from the tank on vacation, say), you could. You could create sunrise and sunset effects, by putting different tubes on different timers. You could replace a few tubes with "moonlight" bulbs, and be able to watch your tank at night. Etc. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
I have seven 55 watt CF lamps over my 135 gallon, which is just a bit
taller than the standard 125 gallon size, but which shares the same footprint. I have two all-glass fixtures that are 36 inches long, and another three AH supply style kit lamps that are each 24 inches in length. The All-glass fixtures, which I like a lot by the way, have two lamps per fixture. I was able to get by with 220 watts -- the two All-glass fixtures alone-- for the first year. I found that I needed more light as the tank grew, as they say, shade happens! I think I have about the right amount of light currently. I assume four 96 watt lamps would do well for you in your tank. You may wish to use only two or three of them initially, two lamps down the center of the tank or two lamps towards the rear and 1 lamp as a second row in front centered with respect to the rear two lamps. As plants grow in, you could then put in all four. If you put one lamp in the front, centered on the tank, you may want to put square dowels down on either side of it to elevate the lamp cabinet slightly off the glass (that I assume you will have), since it may teeter otherwise. The other lamps will probably match up with the standard plastic supports supplied on most tanks. Eventually, my guess is you will want all four 96 watt lamps-- though you may be able to get by with less. I did for a year. Congratulations on your new purchase. (I wish I had time for another couple of large tanks!) -Bruce Geist Dustin wrote in message ... Im planning on doing a Co2 setup, yes. If so, what types of lighting would I need. I would like 3 watts per gallon - or close to it. That is alot of watts, but should I go with ahsupply's compact florescent, or just the regular 4 or 6 ft shop type florescent? Im excited haha :) Thanks Everyone for your input :) "LeighMo" wrote in message ... I bought a 125 gallon today on sale at the lfs, Congratulations! A 125 is a nice size for plants, IMO. Six feet long, 18" wide, just under 2 feet deep. With this size, you can use just about any lighting you want. Though, price-wise, flourescent tubes might make the most sense. Are you getting a compressed CO2 system for the tank, too? If not, it's probably best to keep your lighting levels down at around 2 wpg. 125 gallon is sort of large for DIY! Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
Bruce,
Thank You for the advice, do you have any pictures of your tank? or a website? I think ill take your advice and go with 4 - 96w setups from ahsupply, 2 - 5000k 2 - 6500k and use only two to begin with. Why is it so important to have the co2 in with the higher watts? Is there any website that talks about this? or did i miss this info at the krib? "Bruce Geist" wrote in message ... I have seven 55 watt CF lamps over my 135 gallon, which is just a bit taller than the standard 125 gallon size, but which shares the same footprint. I have two all-glass fixtures that are 36 inches long, and another three AH supply style kit lamps that are each 24 inches in length. The All-glass fixtures, which I like a lot by the way, have two lamps per fixture. I was able to get by with 220 watts -- the two All-glass fixtures alone-- for the first year. I found that I needed more light as the tank grew, as they say, shade happens! I think I have about the right amount of light currently. I assume four 96 watt lamps would do well for you in your tank. You may wish to use only two or three of them initially, two lamps down the center of the tank or two lamps towards the rear and 1 lamp as a second row in front centered with respect to the rear two lamps. As plants grow in, you could then put in all four. If you put one lamp in the front, centered on the tank, you may want to put square dowels down on either side of it to elevate the lamp cabinet slightly off the glass (that I assume you will have), since it may teeter otherwise. The other lamps will probably match up with the standard plastic supports supplied on most tanks. Eventually, my guess is you will want all four 96 watt lamps-- though you may be able to get by with less. I did for a year. Congratulations on your new purchase. (I wish I had time for another couple of large tanks!) -Bruce Geist Dustin wrote in message ... Im planning on doing a Co2 setup, yes. If so, what types of lighting would I need. I would like 3 watts per gallon - or close to it. That is alot of watts, but should I go with ahsupply's compact florescent, or just the regular 4 or 6 ft shop type florescent? Im excited haha :) Thanks Everyone for your input :) "LeighMo" wrote in message ... I bought a 125 gallon today on sale at the lfs, Congratulations! A 125 is a nice size for plants, IMO. Six feet long, 18" wide, just under 2 feet deep. With this size, you can use just about any lighting you want. Though, price-wise, flourescent tubes might make the most sense. Are you getting a compressed CO2 system for the tank, too? If not, it's probably best to keep your lighting levels down at around 2 wpg. 125 gallon is sort of large for DIY! Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
Why is it so important to have the co2 in with the higher watts?
You need to have a balance: light, fertilizer, CO2. Increase one, and you must increase the others, too, or plants won't grow well and algae will take over (because of the extra light & nutrients the plants aren't using). In addition, a high-light tank without CO2 injection can suffer large daily swings in pH, as the plants strip the CO2 they need out of the water during the day, then release CO2 back into the water at night. Here are a couple of links at the Krib: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/balance-randall.html http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/decalcification.html Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
Dustin,
I put a couple of pictures of my tank on the following page. http://hometown.aol.com/brucekgeist/...e/profile.html Thanks for your interest. -Bruce Geist PS: I agree with Leigh's post on getting all the plant nutrients in balance from the start. Otherwise, you will grow a lot of algae. If you have not already, take a look at Chuck Gadd's web site-- its a really great resource. I followed his advise for starting a new tank a couple of years back now. Here is a link to his site-- its really terrific. You will find a nice article on starting a new aquarium there, along with the rational Leigh presented for getting things in balance right away. Here is Chuck's site: http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/ -Bruce Dustin wrote in message ... Bruce, Thank You for the advice, do you have any pictures of your tank? or a website? I think ill take your advice and go with 4 - 96w setups from ahsupply, 2 - 5000k 2 - 6500k and use only two to begin with. Why is it so important to have the co2 in with the higher watts? Is there any website that talks about this? or did i miss this info at the krib? "Bruce Geist" wrote in message ... I have seven 55 watt CF lamps over my 135 gallon, which is just a bit taller than the standard 125 gallon size, but which shares the same footprint. I have two all-glass fixtures that are 36 inches long, and another three AH supply style kit lamps that are each 24 inches in length. The All-glass fixtures, which I like a lot by the way, have two lamps per fixture. I was able to get by with 220 watts -- the two All-glass fixtures alone-- for the first year. I found that I needed more light as the tank grew, as they say, shade happens! I think I have about the right amount of light currently. I assume four 96 watt lamps would do well for you in your tank. You may wish to use only two or three of them initially, two lamps down the center of the tank or two lamps towards the rear and 1 lamp as a second row in front centered with respect to the rear two lamps. As plants grow in, you could then put in all four. If you put one lamp in the front, centered on the tank, you may want to put square dowels down on either side of it to elevate the lamp cabinet slightly off the glass (that I assume you will have), since it may teeter otherwise. The other lamps will probably match up with the standard plastic supports supplied on most tanks. Eventually, my guess is you will want all four 96 watt lamps-- though you may be able to get by with less. I did for a year. Congratulations on your new purchase. (I wish I had time for another couple of large tanks!) -Bruce Geist Dustin wrote in message ... Im planning on doing a Co2 setup, yes. If so, what types of lighting would I need. I would like 3 watts per gallon - or close to it. That is alot of watts, but should I go with ahsupply's compact florescent, or just the regular 4 or 6 ft shop type florescent? Im excited haha :) Thanks Everyone for your input :) "LeighMo" wrote in message ... I bought a 125 gallon today on sale at the lfs, Congratulations! A 125 is a nice size for plants, IMO. Six feet long, 18" wide, just under 2 feet deep. With this size, you can use just about any lighting you want. Though, price-wise, flourescent tubes might make the most sense. Are you getting a compressed CO2 system for the tank, too? If not, it's probably best to keep your lighting levels down at around 2 wpg. 125 gallon is sort of large for DIY! Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
Xref: 127.0.0.1 rec.aquaria.freshwater.plants:67511
Thanks Leigh! I ordered a Co2 System from David Gomberg today :) I appreciate all the words of wisdom! Happy New Year! "LeighMo" wrote in message ... Why is it so important to have the co2 in with the higher watts? You need to have a balance: light, fertilizer, CO2. Increase one, and you must increase the others, too, or plants won't grow well and algae will take over (because of the extra light & nutrients the plants aren't using). In addition, a high-light tank without CO2 injection can suffer large daily swings in pH, as the plants strip the CO2 they need out of the water during the day, then release CO2 back into the water at night. Here are a couple of links at the Krib: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/balance-randall.html http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/decalcification.html Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
On Wed, 1 Jan 2003 03:41:30 -0800, "Dustin"
wrote: Thanks Leigh! I ordered a Co2 System from David Gomberg today :) I appreciate all the words of wisdom! Happy New Year! Hmm..... which system did you buy? I hope it was not the high pressure system. Go here to see why http://www.aquabotanic.com/boards/viewtopic.php?t=2272 And IMHO his prices are way too high for what you get. You could head on over to www.kegworks.com and get a good regulator for $51, you can build your own reactor and bubble counter, and you can get a good needle valve for under $20. And you would be set except for the tank. |
75 or 90 for planted?
THanks for the input Cannibul, that I did buy that system. Wish I hadnt
know, maybe I can get a refund.... I dont like the idea of loosing all the fish...... was it because he didnt have a needle valve, or because the product is junk? Thanks, Dustin "Cannibul" wrote in message ... On Wed, 1 Jan 2003 03:41:30 -0800, "Dustin" wrote: Thanks Leigh! I ordered a Co2 System from David Gomberg today :) I appreciate all the words of wisdom! Happy New Year! Hmm..... which system did you buy? I hope it was not the high pressure system. Go here to see why http://www.aquabotanic.com/boards/viewtopic.php?t=2272 And IMHO his prices are way too high for what you get. You could head on over to www.kegworks.com and get a good regulator for $51, you can build your own reactor and bubble counter, and you can get a good needle valve for under $20. And you would be set except for the tank. |
75 or 90 for planted?
THanks for the input Cannibul, that I did buy that system. Wish I hadnt
know, maybe I can get a refund.... I dont like the idea of loosing all the fish...... was it because he didnt have a needle valve, or because the product is junk? Did you get the needle valve? Adding a needle valve makes it a "low-pressure" system. I think that's what most of us who use compress CO2 use. You always have to watch out for "CO2 dump" when the tank gets empty. When you see the pressure gauge starting to drop, it's time for a refill. Don't try to save a penny or two by getting every last molecule of CO2 out of the cylinder. If you don't have time, turn off the CO2 at the tank valve. Better no CO2 for a little while than a CO2 dump. As for the price...yes, if money is an issue, you can rustle up your own system for cheaper. But a lot of people find compressed gas very intimidating. They don't know what to get, or how to hook it up. It's worth it, for many people, to pay a little extra to get a complete system, along with directions for putting it together and "tech support" if you have problems. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
LeighMo wrote:
As for the price...yes, if money is an issue, you can rustle up your own system for cheaper. But a lot of people find compressed gas very intimidating. They don't know what to get, or how to hook it up. It's worth it, for many people, to pay a little extra to get a complete system, along with directions for putting it together and "tech support" if you have problems. I purchased one of these systems in July (inc. needle valve), and have been more than pleased with it on my 29 gallon tank. I was willing to spend a few extra bucks for someone else to figure out all of the various fitting sizes etc. and save a day of driving from welding shop to welding shop. YMMV. |
75 or 90 for planted?
How much should I expect to spend on "real" CO2 equipment for my 180 gallon?
I've been using DIY on my smaller tanks and just using the big one as a nursery because I couldn't bear the though of a) figuring out how to hook up and maintain seven or eight soda bottles, or b) spending real money. kush "You can't have everything - where would you put it?" Andrew Roberts wrote in message .. . LeighMo wrote: As for the price...yes, if money is an issue, you can rustle up your own system for cheaper. But a lot of people find compressed gas very intimidating. They don't know what to get, or how to hook it up. It's worth it, for many people, to pay a little extra to get a complete system, along with directions for putting it together and "tech support" if you have problems. I purchased one of these systems in July (inc. needle valve), and have been more than pleased with it on my 29 gallon tank. I was willing to spend a few extra bucks for someone else to figure out all of the various fitting sizes etc. and save a day of driving from welding shop to welding shop. YMMV. |
75 or 90 for planted?
On Thu, 02 Jan 2003 15:06:08 GMT, "kush"
wrote: How much should I expect to spend on "real" CO2 equipment for my 180 gallon? I've been using DIY on my smaller tanks and just using the big one as a nursery because I couldn't bear the though of a) figuring out how to hook up and maintain seven or eight soda bottles, or b) spending real money. $100 if you are really good at shopping around and looking for bargins. $150 if not. A decent CO2 regulator can be found at almost ANY time on ebay for $30-40. Here's one (I don't know the seller, just giving an example) on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=3102858 289 This is the EXACT same regulator I'm using, and the one Dave Gomberg sells (or at least sold me) for $75 or so... A CO2 tank should cost you no more than $50.00 or so from your local gas supplier or welding supply store. A needle valve can be purchased new for $20.00. I got mine from Marine Monsters, but I've heard they are having some trouble. If this is still the case, I know I've seen several other places selling needle valves for about the same price. I know Robert over at Aquabotanic sells one for $18.00 A reactor can be made cheap using a small powerhead and a gravel vac tube. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
75 or 90 for planted?
On Thu, 2 Jan 2003 02:58:26 -0800, "Dustin"
wrote: THanks for the input Cannibul, that I did buy that system. Wish I hadnt know, maybe I can get a refund.... I dont like the idea of loosing all the fish...... was it because he didnt have a needle valve, or because the product is junk? The product is perfectly fine. The problem is that the system doesn't use a needle valve. But even without a needle valve, the system is SAFE, and works fine. The issue is what is known as an "end of tank dump". Co2 regulators are intended to operate with a tank pressure of 800-2000 psi (CO2 pressure will never get that high, it's usually around 800-1000psi). On the regulator, the high pressure gauge is marked in red from 0-600psi. This is because, when the CO2 runs out, the tank pressure drops down. The regulator is unable to properly regulate when the tank pressure is very low. In theory, anything below 600psi is a problem. In practice, I've run my regulator (from Dave Gomberg) down to 300-400psi with no "dump". But in any case, once the pressure drops below the regulators minimum, the regulator looses the ability to regulate the output properly, and the output pressure will rise. Since with the "high pressure system" the pressure directly controls the bubble rate, this rising output pressure results in a CO2 overdose. At the extreme end, the regulator can completely loose control when the tank pressure drops very far. At that point, it would vent all the remaining CO2 in a sudden burst. For all of these cases, simply adding a needle valve will provide a safety net. But, if you keep an eye on the tank pressure, it's easy to notice BEFORE the tank pressure drops very far. Unlike watching your car's gas gauge, the CO2 pressure will remain constant (around 800-1000psi depending on the temp) until the tank is 99% empty. When the CO2 tank is filled, the CO2 is under pressure, and is in a liquid form. As long as ANY liquid CO2 remains in the tank, the pressure stays at that 800-1000psi. Once all the liquid is gone, the pressure will start to drop. On my tank, with a fairly high CO2 flow rate, I would get about a week from the time the pressure first started to drop, till it reached the 600psi mark. So even without a needle-valve, if you glance at the CO2 pressure once every few days, you will see it in time to prevent a problem. On my system, with a needle-valve, I intentionally let the pressure drop all the way down. I run the regulator pressure at about 6psi normally, and then control the bubble rate with the needle-valve. I usually have a bubble rate around 2-3 bubble per second. As the tank pressure dropped below 300psi, the output pressure rose up slowly to about 15-20psi. I never saw a true "end of tank dump" with a big spike in output pressure. And the bubble rate (because of the needle valve) didn't increase much, less than 1 extra bubble per second. Possibly a bigger issue with the Dave Gomberg high pressure system, if it's the same as when I bought mine several years ago, is that the tiny little Eheim diffusor isn't very effective in large tanks. In my 75g, I was unable to get acceptable CO2 levels using it. I ditched the eheim diffusor, added a needle-valve, and built my DIY reactor, and I've been very happy ever since. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
75 or 90 for planted?
Thanks. Can you come over to my house and put it all together? I'll go out
to a movie or something because I don't like swearing - at least, not listening to other people do it. Chuck Gadd wrote in message ... On Thu, 02 Jan 2003 15:06:08 GMT, "kush" wrote: How much should I expect to spend on "real" CO2 equipment for my 180 gallon? I've been using DIY on my smaller tanks and just using the big one as a nursery because I couldn't bear the though of a) figuring out how to hook up and maintain seven or eight soda bottles, or b) spending real money. $100 if you are really good at shopping around and looking for bargins. $150 if not. A decent CO2 regulator can be found at almost ANY time on ebay for $30-40. Here's one (I don't know the seller, just giving an example) on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=3102858 289 This is the EXACT same regulator I'm using, and the one Dave Gomberg sells (or at least sold me) for $75 or so... A CO2 tank should cost you no more than $50.00 or so from your local gas supplier or welding supply store. A needle valve can be purchased new for $20.00. I got mine from Marine Monsters, but I've heard they are having some trouble. If this is still the case, I know I've seen several other places selling needle valves for about the same price. I know Robert over at Aquabotanic sells one for $18.00 A reactor can be made cheap using a small powerhead and a gravel vac tube. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
75 or 90 for planted?
On Thu, 02 Jan 2003 20:17:31 GMT, "kush"
wrote: Thanks. Can you come over to my house and put it all together? I'll go out If you lived close enough, I would! to a movie or something because I don't like swearing - at least, not listening to other people do it. The only part that really involved any swearing for me was finding tiny little adapters to fit my needle valve to the regulator. Many of the needle-valves I've seen lately just have hose-barb fittings on both ends, and most reactors come with hose-barb fittings, so it's pretty easy. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
75 or 90 for planted?
Possibly a bigger issue with the Dave Gomberg high pressure system, if
it's the same as when I bought mine several years ago, is that the tiny little Eheim diffusor isn't very effective in large tanks. It's fine in my 75 gallon. I believe Chuck uses a wet-dry filter, which tends to lose a lot of CO2. The Eheim will probably be fine with any "normal" filter. I am considering switching to some kind of reactor, or injecting directly into the filter intake, in hopes of lowering the maintenance required. You do have to rinse the Eheim diffusor's ceramic disk every week or two, to keep the CO2 bubble size small. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
I purchased one of these systems in July (inc. needle valve), and have
been more than pleased with it on my 29 gallon tank. I was willing to spend a few extra bucks for someone else to figure out all of the various fitting sizes etc. and save a day of driving from welding shop to welding shop. Yes, that's how it was for me, too. I did a lot of research, and found several Web pages describing how to do it, but I still wasn't sure what kind of regulator to get, what kind of fittings were needed, etc. The people who sell CO2 refills have no clue about using CO2 for fishtanks, so they weren't much help. I probably wouldn't be using compressed CO2 today, if Dave didn't offer complete kits meant for planted tanks. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
How much should I expect to spend on "real" CO2 equipment for my 180 gallon?
See this page: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/2637/ With a lot of scrounging and some DIY, he made a complete compressed CO2 system for $100. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
i've found that the little rena 2" diffusers do a good job of maintaining a
small bubble size over an extended period. i've tried several other "airstones" as well as limewood diffusers and they all seem to generate large bubbles from the start or soon thereafter. when i say small i mean bubbles small enough that 70% (approximately) disappear within 8" of water column. with a 75G i don't think anything would make it to the top if the diffuser was at the bottom. if you use the rena make sure to trim the lip of the rubber at the top otherwise it will collect the fine bubbles into larger ones. jtm -- Remove NOSPAM for email replies "LeighMo" wrote in message ... Possibly a bigger issue with the Dave Gomberg high pressure system, if it's the same as when I bought mine several years ago, is that the tiny little Eheim diffusor isn't very effective in large tanks. It's fine in my 75 gallon. I believe Chuck uses a wet-dry filter, which tends to lose a lot of CO2. The Eheim will probably be fine with any "normal" filter. I am considering switching to some kind of reactor, or injecting directly into the filter intake, in hopes of lowering the maintenance required. You do have to rinse the Eheim diffusor's ceramic disk every week or two, to keep the CO2 bubble size small. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
75 or 90 for planted?
On Thu, 2 Jan 2003 17:31:51 -0800, "Dustin"
wrote: By a tank dump then, you are talking about alot of co2 *gas form* comming out all at once and sufficating the fish? Yes. It doesn't actually sufficate the fish, but the end result can be the same... I thought you meant liquid comming through and contaminating the water. I No. Any liquid CO2 that did come out would quickly expand into gas, so it wouldn't really "contaminate" the water. But liquid CO2 can't come out of the system unless the tank was a "syphon" tank with a tube specifically built into the tank to draw up liquid, or maybe if you inverted the CO2 tank. The liquid CO2 would probably be stopped by the regulator anyway. And the regulator might be damaged by the liquid CO2. (it freezes the seals, etc) Which needle valve do you prefer, or is there such a thing? I just bought one sold for planted tank use. I don't know anything special about them. Buy one from Dave Gomberg, or Aquabotanic, M3. You might be able to find one somewhere else for a few bucks cheaper, but I wouldn't know what specs to look for. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
75 or 90 for planted?
Thanks Chuck!
I got a needle Valve and Check Valve from Robert at Aquabotanic. He was a great help and friendly too :) I called the local welding supply and they said they had fitting for the regulator, so I guess im gonna be set haha. Thanks Everyone! "Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... On Thu, 2 Jan 2003 17:31:51 -0800, "Dustin" wrote: By a tank dump then, you are talking about alot of co2 *gas form* comming out all at once and sufficating the fish? Yes. It doesn't actually sufficate the fish, but the end result can be the same... I thought you meant liquid comming through and contaminating the water. I No. Any liquid CO2 that did come out would quickly expand into gas, so it wouldn't really "contaminate" the water. But liquid CO2 can't come out of the system unless the tank was a "syphon" tank with a tube specifically built into the tank to draw up liquid, or maybe if you inverted the CO2 tank. The liquid CO2 would probably be stopped by the regulator anyway. And the regulator might be damaged by the liquid CO2. (it freezes the seals, etc) Which needle valve do you prefer, or is there such a thing? I just bought one sold for planted tank use. I don't know anything special about them. Buy one from Dave Gomberg, or Aquabotanic, M3. You might be able to find one somewhere else for a few bucks cheaper, but I wouldn't know what specs to look for. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
75 or 90 for planted?
On Thu, 2 Jan 2003 20:37:23 -0800, "Dustin"
wrote: I got a needle Valve and Check Valve from Robert at Aquabotanic. He was a great help and friendly too :) Definitely a class act. I called the local welding supply and they said they had fitting for the regulator, so I guess im gonna be set haha. Sounds great. There's always someone helpful around here if you hit any questions. One good suggestion I heard regarding setting up a new CO2 system: When you first set it up, be sure you will be available to monitor things for the first 24 hours. Start out with a low bubble rate, don't try to drop the pH too far too fast. Adjust it a little at a time, until you get the pH where you want it. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
75 or 90 for planted?
Ok Great, Ill keep that in mind :)
As Always, Thanks for the help! Dustin "Chuck Gadd" wrote in message ... On Thu, 2 Jan 2003 20:37:23 -0800, "Dustin" wrote: I got a needle Valve and Check Valve from Robert at Aquabotanic. He was a great help and friendly too :) Definitely a class act. I called the local welding supply and they said they had fitting for the regulator, so I guess im gonna be set haha. Sounds great. There's always someone helpful around here if you hit any questions. One good suggestion I heard regarding setting up a new CO2 system: When you first set it up, be sure you will be available to monitor things for the first 24 hours. Start out with a low bubble rate, don't try to drop the pH too far too fast. Adjust it a little at a time, until you get the pH where you want it. Chuck Gadd http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua |
75 or 90 for planted?
|
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:31 AM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
GardenBanter