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#16
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Dealing with bright tanks
perhaps a more powerful UV sterilizer?
are the steralizers inline with the filter or how do they work? can anyone give me the best and easiest one to get? I have 2 fluval 404 filters and I'd rather not have another intake and outake on the back of my tank "LeighMo" wrote in message ... I disagree a bit. It will only kill free floating algae however if you clean the plants, tank and rocks well new growth is cut way back That has not been my experience. I had a UV sterilizer on my tank almost from the beginning, before algae had a chance to get established. (It was to prevent ich as I stocked the tank.) Nevertheless, as the weeks went on, I got various algae infestations. IME, this is normal for a newly established tank, and I didn't do anything special to control it, other than make sure I had enough CO2 and fertilizer. Eventually, it went away on it own. However, I still have more algae in the tank with the UV sterilizer than in the tank without one. (Because the other tank has les slight, and lots of snails.) Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#17
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Dealing with bright tanks
Not to push the thread but. . .I had the same issue until I got the flow right.
Too slow and algae was not affected. Based on the specs to kill algae and other bad things i believe i have found a happy medium. For example - I used to get algae on the glass at the output of the return nozzle - now I do not. LeighMo wrote: I disagree a bit. It will only kill free floating algae however if you clean the plants, tank and rocks well new growth is cut way back That has not been my experience. I had a UV sterilizer on my tank almost from the beginning, before algae had a chance to get established. (It was to prevent ich as I stocked the tank.) Nevertheless, as the weeks went on, I got various algae infestations. IME, this is normal for a newly established tank, and I didn't do anything special to control it, other than make sure I had enough CO2 and fertilizer. Eventually, it went away on it own. However, I still have more algae in the tank with the UV sterilizer than in the tank without one. (Because the other tank has les slight, and lots of snails.) Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#18
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Dealing with bright tanks
My 2.5 cents again
You can also rig a sterilizer with an external power filter. I take water from the post filter media side, run it through the sterilizer and then put the output back in the tank at the other end. I regulate flow with a "pinch" type collar that is made for this. $ months and it works great. (I did it this way because I had the power filter first. I use the clean water filter input instead of just drawing from the tank because it is (should be) cleaner) LeighMo wrote: perhaps a more powerful UV sterilizer? No. A UV sterilizer will take care of green water, but it will *not* fix other algae problems. The best way to control algae is to keep your nutrients (including CO2) in balance with your lighting and your plant selection, and to keep some algae-eaters for mop-up. are the steralizers inline with the filter or how do they work? There are two kinds of UV sterilizers: inline and standalone. Some can be used either way. The inline models are meant to be used with cannister filters. You just hook it up "inline" with the cannister filter, and the cannister filter's pump runs water through it. (You should get a T-connector, so you can control the amount of water that goes through the sterilizer.) The standalone models are meant to be hooked to a powerhead, which you must buy separately. (Check to make sure the flowrate of the powerhead is within the UV sterilizer's recommended flowrate.) Get a standalone if you'll be using the unit on more than one tank. I bought a Custom Sealife "Double Helix" model, which is one of those that can be used both inline or standalone. (I'm using it standalone, with a Penguin powerhead.) I chose Custom Sealife because it's lower maintenance than most. With other sterilizers, you have to wipe algae off the quartz sleeve over the bulb every once in awhile. With some types, this means dismantling the unit to clean it. Others have a "wiper," that allows you to clean the sleeve without taking the unit apart, or even taking it off the tank. The Double Helix doesn't have a quartz sleeve. It's made out of special polymer that's so slippery algae can't adhere, so there's cleaning. In addition to cleaning, you have to change the bulb regularly, or the sterilizer won't be effective. The interval depends on what model you get -- generally, it's anywhere from every six months to every eighteen months. Also make sure the sterilizer you choose is sized for your tank, and that you have the proper flowrate going through it. I recommend sizing up one; sometimes manufacturers exaggerate the effectiveness of their units. And ich can be tough to kill. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#19
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Dealing with bright tanks
so still, shouldn't it take a considerable dent out of the free floating
algae spores? Wouldn't this slow the appearance of algae as it would not be able to spread in the tank nearly as fast? "LeighMo" wrote in message ... wouldn't it kill algae spores and not allow the algae to spread in the tank as easily? Not by my experience. UV sterilizers don't actually make the tank sterile. Some people claim that the fishes' immune systems get weak, because there's no germs to keep them revved up. Or that they kill off the biological filter. Not true. There's plenty of bacteria, spores, and the like in a tank with a UV sterilizer on it. The UV sterilizer can only kill the stuff that's free-floating, and it doesn't kill 100% of that. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
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