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#1
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
Ok, I'm going to change up my situation a bit. I recently (two days
ago) aquired a 55 gallon tank. The tank dimensions are 48"x18"x21". I have the choice of several filters. The tank came with a Eheim 2217 and a HOB filter (bio-wheel). I also have a brand new Eheim 2028 that I can use in place of one of the filters. I'm thinking that two eheims on one tank is a bit more filtration that I really need. :-P I still plan on using a flourite and gravel mix - although probably not black. I would like to have about a 4" layer in the back and only gravel up front in the clear areas - about 1/2" to 3/4". I'll be buying compact Flourescent lights. I hope to find bulbs that will give me at least 3wpg. I figure I'll put the lights on a timer and have them on about 14 hours per day. I still have a problem with getting CO2. I have found several commercially produced CO2 thingies but the ones I've found - including the one from Hagen are only rated up to 20 gallons. How do I add CO2 reliablely to this tank with shelling out a whole lot of money? -Sarah "Phil Williamson" wrote in message ... How long do you plan on keeping the lights on per day? Which bulbs did you choose for your new planted tank? "Sarah" wrote in message om... Ok, I've had a few aquariums for over a year now, so I think I'm ready to start my first planted tank. I've been reading everything I can get my hands on and have asked questions at the LFS, but now I'm overloaded with info. I have the following plans on how to start but I need your input so that I know I'm on the right track. I have a 25 gallon tall tank - 12" x 24" x 16" I figure I'll start with a mixture of flourite and black gravel about 2-3 inches high. I want to use sand but I've heard conflicting commentary that sea sand will throw things off and the sand I have in my ciclid tank is designed for African ciclids so that LFS said I shouldn't use it for live plants. I was going to start with a small CO2 canister that they LFS suggested (retails there for about $35 - don't remember the name) and a dual flourescent light hood. The room the tank will be in does not have a lot of stron ambient light so most of the light will come from the hood. I still need to research plants, but I'm thinking that I'm best going with plants with low to medium light requirements. I haven't even though abotu fish yet - although I know it'll be a community tank. What else do I need? What should I fix? |
#2
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
"Sarah" wrote in message
om... Ok, I'm going to change up my situation a bit. I recently (two days ago) aquired a 55 gallon tank. The tank dimensions are 48"x18"x21". I have the choice of several filters. The tank came with a Eheim 2217 and a HOB filter (bio-wheel). I also have a brand new Eheim 2028 that I can use in place of one of the filters. I'm thinking that two eheims on one tank is a bit more filtration that I really need. :-P uh, yup, especially with CO2 injection (which you don't want to dissipate, and CO2 = lots of plants which are filters, and lots of plants = smaller fish which means less biological load). I still plan on using a flourite and gravel mix - although probably not black. I would like to have about a 4" layer in the back and only gravel up front in the clear areas - about 1/2" to 3/4". Sounds right, though with CO2, you can get more ambitious and go for 100% ground cover. I have a 135g at work which is 99% covered (a little spot under the Tiger Lotus gets too much shade and the Anubius are *slowly* moving in there). If you go this route (perhaps trying some Echin. tennelus across the front) then your slope is not as critical (slope for cosmetics rather than for detritus settling), and you want to go a bit deeper in the front (1-1/2") and not neccesarily so deep in the back (3-1/2"?). Really, for cosmetics, tiering is better than sloping, but that requires more intense terraforming than you might be interested in. I used a mix of Crypts across the front of the 135g and I have mixed feelings about it. It's too well established for me to be in a hurry about moving them, but it looks more like a field of weeds than a lawn of tall grass. Be careful what you plant where, as you can become a victim of success easily ;~) I'll be buying compact Flourescent lights. I hope to find bulbs that will give me at least 3wpg. I figure I'll put the lights on a timer and have them on about 14 hours per day. The wpg is in the ballpark, but 14 daily might be high to start with. This is something you experiment with. I'm certainly not any kind of an expert at this. I just know enough to have fun and be dangerous ;~) I still have a problem with getting CO2. I have found several commercially produced CO2 thingies but the ones I've found - including the one from Hagen are only rated up to 20 gallons. How do I add CO2 reliablely to this tank with shelling out a whole lot of money? Don't let the rating phase you too much. The rate the CO2 dissapates is as important as the rate it goes in. If you don't use the bio-wheel, and keep your Eheim flow pointed downwards, you will reduce the rate at which the CO2 dissipates (getting more bang for your buck). This improves the results from a single DIY canister (Hagen thingy or otherwise). The advantage of using two units (another possibility) is that you can have them on alternate cycles (they are never both off at the same time). How much CO2 you need to inject really depends on your expectations. I get tired of pruning plants, so I tend to go lower, especially after the plants are established. As they say - ymmv ) -- www.NetMax.tk -Sarah "Phil Williamson" wrote in message ... How long do you plan on keeping the lights on per day? Which bulbs did you choose for your new planted tank? "Sarah" wrote in message om... Ok, I've had a few aquariums for over a year now, so I think I'm ready to start my first planted tank. I've been reading everything I can get my hands on and have asked questions at the LFS, but now I'm overloaded with info. I have the following plans on how to start but I need your input so that I know I'm on the right track. I have a 25 gallon tall tank - 12" x 24" x 16" I figure I'll start with a mixture of flourite and black gravel about 2-3 inches high. I want to use sand but I've heard conflicting commentary that sea sand will throw things off and the sand I have in my ciclid tank is designed for African ciclids so that LFS said I shouldn't use it for live plants. I was going to start with a small CO2 canister that they LFS suggested (retails there for about $35 - don't remember the name) and a dual flourescent light hood. The room the tank will be in does not have a lot of stron ambient light so most of the light will come from the hood. I still need to research plants, but I'm thinking that I'm best going with plants with low to medium light requirements. I haven't even though abotu fish yet - although I know it'll be a community tank. What else do I need? What should I fix? |
#3
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
I still have a problem with getting CO2. I have found several commercially produced CO2 thingies but the ones I've found - including the one from Hagen are only rated up to 20 gallons. How do I add CO2 reliablely to this tank with shelling out a whole lot of money? WOrk on the basis that any additional CO2 you can add is good...even if its just a little bit. I use a Hagen thing on one of my tanks (about 50USG) & of course it doesn't raise the concentration significantly but it does make a discernable difference. If you want more, use 2. I. |
#4
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
Sounds like you actually have a 75 gallon rather than a 55. Four 55w
CFs would give you a nice amount of light, but very close to too much for a non-pressurized CO2 setup. I would aim slightly lower if you plan to use DIY CO2. But still, if you have the patience to keep up with them, a couple DIY CO2 bottles will work for you. I wouldn't waste any money on off-the-shelf DIY CO2, they are no better than regular DIY yeast/sugar mixes, save the money for a pressurized setup. As for the lighting, again probably a little too long, I'd start with 10-12 hours and see how things go, you may find yourself reducing it if you run into any problems. Filter wise, the 2217 is what I use on both 55 and 90 gallon tanks so I know that will work very well for you. The 2028 is just as good, pretty much the same size, a little bigger media storage I believe but very much the same. The HOB you can throw out the window, it's only going to reduce your CO2 levels and it's not needed as any one of the other filters you have is more than sufficient. A good size fish load may also help maintain higher CO2 levels, but obviously don't go overboard. As for the substrate, flourite/gravel mix works well, I'd add a handfull of peat moss to the lowest layer along with 5-6 crushed Flourish Tabs. Then cap it all with 3-4 inches of flourite/gravel mix. I don't think you'll be able to maintain such a steep slope for too long (4" in back, 1/2-3/4" in front) plus that could cause nutrients to come out of the lower layers of the substrate. I'd go with 4" in the back and 3" in front, all the same gravel/flourite mix in case you decide you want some foreground plants in the future. Here's some basic info regarding DIY CO2 setups: http://www.gpodio.com/diy_co2.asp Hope that helps Giancarlo Podio |
#6
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
|| I've found several vendors on Ebay that will sell me a CO2 regulator,
|| a pH meter, some funky black thing whose name I forget to regulate || bubbles. The bundle comes out to about $250. I'll willing to spend || that money. My question is - where do I get CO2 tanks. I'm an EMT, || I || know where to get O2. But where does an aquarist get CO2? || || Also, my water has a high pH (about 7.6-7.8). I know adding CO2 || lowers pH which would be good for the tank. I'm now sure what my gH || and Kh are. Would using a peat layer underneath my gravel be || beneficial? || || Sarah Home brewery supply houses, makers of beer, etc... Welding supply company can sell you tanks too If you live in a big town, grab the yellow pages, and look for gas companies, propane companies, etc.. that's where I get mine filled. -- RedForeman ©® fabricator and creator of the ratbike streetfighter!!! ========================== 2003 TRX450ES 1992 TRX-350 XX (For Sale) '98 Tacoma Ext Cab 4X4 Lifted.... ========================== ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø,¸¸¸,ø¤° `°¤ø,¸¸,ø¤°`°¤ø ((((º`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸((((º ·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. ((((º is that better?? |
#7
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
LOL, you don't sound like you are following any advice in this thread,
but as long as you are still learning and we are giving you ideas, then it's all good ;~) Your phone book should have listings. Many industries use CO2 so it's readily available, but prices will vary. Before installing the CO2, it would be instructive to know what your gH and kH levels are. I don't think CO2 injection would do much to my tap water when it's at 35dgH 16dkH, and if you are at 3dgH 2dkH then you might be pearling your plants and looking for a way to periodically turn off the CO2, so like so many aquaria questions, the answer is 'it depends'. -- www.NetMax.tk "Sarah" wrote in message om... I've found several vendors on Ebay that will sell me a CO2 regulator, a pH meter, some funky black thing whose name I forget to regulate bubbles. The bundle comes out to about $250. I'll willing to spend that money. My question is - where do I get CO2 tanks. I'm an EMT, I know where to get O2. But where does an aquarist get CO2? Also, my water has a high pH (about 7.6-7.8). I know adding CO2 lowers pH which would be good for the tank. I'm now sure what my gH and Kh are. Would using a peat layer underneath my gravel be beneficial? Sarah (Giancarlo Podio) wrote in message om... Sounds like you actually have a 75 gallon rather than a 55. Four 55w CFs would give you a nice amount of light, but very close to too much for a non-pressurized CO2 setup. I would aim slightly lower if you plan to use DIY CO2. But still, if you have the patience to keep up with them, a couple DIY CO2 bottles will work for you. I wouldn't waste any money on off-the-shelf DIY CO2, they are no better than regular DIY yeast/sugar mixes, save the money for a pressurized setup. As for the lighting, again probably a little too long, I'd start with 10-12 hours and see how things go, you may find yourself reducing it if you run into any problems. Filter wise, the 2217 is what I use on both 55 and 90 gallon tanks so I know that will work very well for you. The 2028 is just as good, pretty much the same size, a little bigger media storage I believe but very much the same. The HOB you can throw out the window, it's only going to reduce your CO2 levels and it's not needed as any one of the other filters you have is more than sufficient. A good size fish load may also help maintain higher CO2 levels, but obviously don't go overboard. As for the substrate, flourite/gravel mix works well, I'd add a handfull of peat moss to the lowest layer along with 5-6 crushed Flourish Tabs. Then cap it all with 3-4 inches of flourite/gravel mix. I don't think you'll be able to maintain such a steep slope for too long (4" in back, 1/2-3/4" in front) plus that could cause nutrients to come out of the lower layers of the substrate. I'd go with 4" in the back and 3" in front, all the same gravel/flourite mix in case you decide you want some foreground plants in the future. Here's some basic info regarding DIY CO2 setups: http://www.gpodio.com/diy_co2.asp Hope that helps Giancarlo Podio |
#8
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
(Sarah) wrote in message . com...
I've found several vendors on Ebay that will sell me a CO2 regulator, a pH meter, some funky black thing whose name I forget to regulate bubbles. The bundle comes out to about $250. I'll willing to spend that money. My question is - where do I get CO2 tanks. I'm an EMT, I know where to get O2. But where does an aquarist get CO2? Also, my water has a high pH (about 7.6-7.8). I know adding CO2 lowers pH which would be good for the tank. I'm now sure what my gH and Kh are. Would using a peat layer underneath my gravel be beneficial? Sarah $250? on ebay? I can sell you a system for much less than that. You need a regulator, bubblecounter and reactor. Your KH act as a buffer to the pH. High KH means you can safely add more C02. C02 cannisters are sold by gas suppliers, just look in your phonr book Robert Hudson www.aquabotanic.com |
#9
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
I'm trying to follow your advice! Actually, I'm looking into as many
possiblities as possible. Right now my tank is sitting empty in my room. I've rushed into tanks before but I want to research this one and start out right. (Plus I'm still looking for a place to find flourite at a decent price). I will probably go with one or two of the DIY CO2 injectors for now but I figured I'd look at what my options are as far as the more elaborate CO2 injectors on the market. In the long run, isn't it better to have an automated pressurized system that will keep track of pH? "NetMax" wrote in message m... LOL, you don't sound like you are following any advice in this thread, but as long as you are still learning and we are giving you ideas, then it's all good ;~) Your phone book should have listings. Many industries use CO2 so it's readily available, but prices will vary. Before installing the CO2, it would be instructive to know what your gH and kH levels are. I don't think CO2 injection would do much to my tap water when it's at 35dgH 16dkH, and if you are at 3dgH 2dkH then you might be pearling your plants and looking for a way to periodically turn off the CO2, so like so many aquaria questions, the answer is 'it depends'. -- www.NetMax.tk "Sarah" wrote in message om... I've found several vendors on Ebay that will sell me a CO2 regulator, a pH meter, some funky black thing whose name I forget to regulate bubbles. The bundle comes out to about $250. I'll willing to spend that money. My question is - where do I get CO2 tanks. I'm an EMT, I know where to get O2. But where does an aquarist get CO2? Also, my water has a high pH (about 7.6-7.8). I know adding CO2 lowers pH which would be good for the tank. I'm now sure what my gH and Kh are. Would using a peat layer underneath my gravel be beneficial? Sarah (Giancarlo Podio) wrote in message om... Sounds like you actually have a 75 gallon rather than a 55. Four 55w CFs would give you a nice amount of light, but very close to too much for a non-pressurized CO2 setup. I would aim slightly lower if you plan to use DIY CO2. But still, if you have the patience to keep up with them, a couple DIY CO2 bottles will work for you. I wouldn't waste any money on off-the-shelf DIY CO2, they are no better than regular DIY yeast/sugar mixes, save the money for a pressurized setup. As for the lighting, again probably a little too long, I'd start with 10-12 hours and see how things go, you may find yourself reducing it if you run into any problems. Filter wise, the 2217 is what I use on both 55 and 90 gallon tanks so I know that will work very well for you. The 2028 is just as good, pretty much the same size, a little bigger media storage I believe but very much the same. The HOB you can throw out the window, it's only going to reduce your CO2 levels and it's not needed as any one of the other filters you have is more than sufficient. A good size fish load may also help maintain higher CO2 levels, but obviously don't go overboard. As for the substrate, flourite/gravel mix works well, I'd add a handfull of peat moss to the lowest layer along with 5-6 crushed Flourish Tabs. Then cap it all with 3-4 inches of flourite/gravel mix. I don't think you'll be able to maintain such a steep slope for too long (4" in back, 1/2-3/4" in front) plus that could cause nutrients to come out of the lower layers of the substrate. I'd go with 4" in the back and 3" in front, all the same gravel/flourite mix in case you decide you want some foreground plants in the future. Here's some basic info regarding DIY CO2 setups: http://www.gpodio.com/diy_co2.asp Hope that helps Giancarlo Podio |
#10
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
$220 is crazy! Although you can get better deals if you wait for them
and buy used equipment, here's the bare minimum you would need to set it up: CO2 Tank: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...8081 483&rd=1 Regulator: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...1323 995&rd=1 Clippard Needle Valve: http://www.clippard.com/store/displa...p?sku=MNV-4K2# Clippard 1/4" NPT to 10-32 adapter: http://www.clippard.com/store/displa...p?sku=4CQF-PKG I don't use a bubble counter personally but you can add one for about $10. Hope that helps Giancarlo Podio (Sarah) wrote in message . com... I've found several vendors on Ebay that will sell me a CO2 regulator, a pH meter, some funky black thing whose name I forget to regulate bubbles. The bundle comes out to about $250. I'll willing to spend that money. My question is - where do I get CO2 tanks. I'm an EMT, I know where to get O2. But where does an aquarist get CO2? Also, my water has a high pH (about 7.6-7.8). I know adding CO2 lowers pH which would be good for the tank. I'm now sure what my gH and Kh are. Would using a peat layer underneath my gravel be beneficial? Sarah (Giancarlo Podio) wrote in message om... Sounds like you actually have a 75 gallon rather than a 55. Four 55w CFs would give you a nice amount of light, but very close to too much for a non-pressurized CO2 setup. I would aim slightly lower if you plan to use DIY CO2. But still, if you have the patience to keep up with them, a couple DIY CO2 bottles will work for you. I wouldn't waste any money on off-the-shelf DIY CO2, they are no better than regular DIY yeast/sugar mixes, save the money for a pressurized setup. As for the lighting, again probably a little too long, I'd start with 10-12 hours and see how things go, you may find yourself reducing it if you run into any problems. Filter wise, the 2217 is what I use on both 55 and 90 gallon tanks so I know that will work very well for you. The 2028 is just as good, pretty much the same size, a little bigger media storage I believe but very much the same. The HOB you can throw out the window, it's only going to reduce your CO2 levels and it's not needed as any one of the other filters you have is more than sufficient. A good size fish load may also help maintain higher CO2 levels, but obviously don't go overboard. As for the substrate, flourite/gravel mix works well, I'd add a handfull of peat moss to the lowest layer along with 5-6 crushed Flourish Tabs. Then cap it all with 3-4 inches of flourite/gravel mix. I don't think you'll be able to maintain such a steep slope for too long (4" in back, 1/2-3/4" in front) plus that could cause nutrients to come out of the lower layers of the substrate. I'd go with 4" in the back and 3" in front, all the same gravel/flourite mix in case you decide you want some foreground plants in the future. Here's some basic info regarding DIY CO2 setups: http://www.gpodio.com/diy_co2.asp Hope that helps Giancarlo Podio |
#11
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
Perhaps it's because I don't have any background that it might seem to me
like you are rushing into CO2. Have you had planted tanks before such that you know you need/want CO2? Most of my planted tanks do not have CO2 and it means that I don't have to prune quite as often ;~). My CO2 tanks keep my pH low which is fine for the fish I have in there. I don't have any plants which require CO2 to do well, and having over 100 aquariums, mostly planted, I'd be willing to wager that there isn't anyone here with a bigger selection (I manage a fish store). Light still seems to be the first constraint. CO2 injection with poor light doesn't get you much further than if you didn't have CO2. Have you measured your kH yet? The value of an automated injector monitoring your pH would depend on whether your pH was likely to change much, which would depend on your kH. Having used flourite and gravel, I don't think I'd spend the extra for flourite again. There are too many more important growth factors ahead of whether your gravel is stone or fractured clay. jmo I guess it depends on your level of expertise, your objective and how quickly you want to get there. -- www.NetMax.tk "Sarah" wrote in message om... I'm trying to follow your advice! Actually, I'm looking into as many possiblities as possible. Right now my tank is sitting empty in my room. I've rushed into tanks before but I want to research this one and start out right. (Plus I'm still looking for a place to find flourite at a decent price). I will probably go with one or two of the DIY CO2 injectors for now but I figured I'd look at what my options are as far as the more elaborate CO2 injectors on the market. In the long run, isn't it better to have an automated pressurized system that will keep track of pH? "NetMax" wrote in message m... LOL, you don't sound like you are following any advice in this thread, but as long as you are still learning and we are giving you ideas, then it's all good ;~) Your phone book should have listings. Many industries use CO2 so it's readily available, but prices will vary. Before installing the CO2, it would be instructive to know what your gH and kH levels are. I don't think CO2 injection would do much to my tap water when it's at 35dgH 16dkH, and if you are at 3dgH 2dkH then you might be pearling your plants and looking for a way to periodically turn off the CO2, so like so many aquaria questions, the answer is 'it depends'. -- www.NetMax.tk "Sarah" wrote in message om... I've found several vendors on Ebay that will sell me a CO2 regulator, a pH meter, some funky black thing whose name I forget to regulate bubbles. The bundle comes out to about $250. I'll willing to spend that money. My question is - where do I get CO2 tanks. I'm an EMT, I know where to get O2. But where does an aquarist get CO2? Also, my water has a high pH (about 7.6-7.8). I know adding CO2 lowers pH which would be good for the tank. I'm now sure what my gH and Kh are. Would using a peat layer underneath my gravel be beneficial? Sarah (Giancarlo Podio) wrote in message om... Sounds like you actually have a 75 gallon rather than a 55. Four 55w CFs would give you a nice amount of light, but very close to too much for a non-pressurized CO2 setup. I would aim slightly lower if you plan to use DIY CO2. But still, if you have the patience to keep up with them, a couple DIY CO2 bottles will work for you. I wouldn't waste any money on off-the-shelf DIY CO2, they are no better than regular DIY yeast/sugar mixes, save the money for a pressurized setup. As for the lighting, again probably a little too long, I'd start with 10-12 hours and see how things go, you may find yourself reducing it if you run into any problems. Filter wise, the 2217 is what I use on both 55 and 90 gallon tanks so I know that will work very well for you. The 2028 is just as good, pretty much the same size, a little bigger media storage I believe but very much the same. The HOB you can throw out the window, it's only going to reduce your CO2 levels and it's not needed as any one of the other filters you have is more than sufficient. A good size fish load may also help maintain higher CO2 levels, but obviously don't go overboard. As for the substrate, flourite/gravel mix works well, I'd add a handfull of peat moss to the lowest layer along with 5-6 crushed Flourish Tabs. Then cap it all with 3-4 inches of flourite/gravel mix. I don't think you'll be able to maintain such a steep slope for too long (4" in back, 1/2-3/4" in front) plus that could cause nutrients to come out of the lower layers of the substrate. I'd go with 4" in the back and 3" in front, all the same gravel/flourite mix in case you decide you want some foreground plants in the future. Here's some basic info regarding DIY CO2 setups: http://www.gpodio.com/diy_co2.asp Hope that helps Giancarlo Podio |
#12
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
I did check my parameters tonight. kH 8 and gH 13. Those are the
parameters in my existing 25 gallon. It does have one large piece of bog wood and a couple of fist sized stones all from the lfs. Right now these numbers don't mean much to me since I've never paid attention to them before. I'm so confused. There are so many variables: CO2, substrate, lighting - and I'm getting so much advice. Maybe I should just fill the tank, try it out and fix things that don't work as I go along? I'm trying to set this tank up right but the "right" way to do it is getting very murky. "NetMax" wrote in message m... Perhaps it's because I don't have any background that it might seem to me like you are rushing into CO2. Have you had planted tanks before such that you know you need/want CO2? Most of my planted tanks do not have CO2 and it means that I don't have to prune quite as often ;~). My CO2 tanks keep my pH low which is fine for the fish I have in there. I don't have any plants which require CO2 to do well, and having over 100 aquariums, mostly planted, I'd be willing to wager that there isn't anyone here with a bigger selection (I manage a fish store). Light still seems to be the first constraint. CO2 injection with poor light doesn't get you much further than if you didn't have CO2. Have you measured your kH yet? The value of an automated injector monitoring your pH would depend on whether your pH was likely to change much, which would depend on your kH. Having used flourite and gravel, I don't think I'd spend the extra for flourite again. There are too many more important growth factors ahead of whether your gravel is stone or fractured clay. jmo I guess it depends on your level of expertise, your objective and how quickly you want to get there. -- www.NetMax.tk "Sarah" wrote in message om... I'm trying to follow your advice! Actually, I'm looking into as many possiblities as possible. Right now my tank is sitting empty in my room. I've rushed into tanks before but I want to research this one and start out right. (Plus I'm still looking for a place to find flourite at a decent price). I will probably go with one or two of the DIY CO2 injectors for now but I figured I'd look at what my options are as far as the more elaborate CO2 injectors on the market. In the long run, isn't it better to have an automated pressurized system that will keep track of pH? "NetMax" wrote in message m... LOL, you don't sound like you are following any advice in this thread, but as long as you are still learning and we are giving you ideas, then it's all good ;~) Your phone book should have listings. Many industries use CO2 so it's readily available, but prices will vary. Before installing the CO2, it would be instructive to know what your gH and kH levels are. I don't think CO2 injection would do much to my tap water when it's at 35dgH 16dkH, and if you are at 3dgH 2dkH then you might be pearling your plants and looking for a way to periodically turn off the CO2, so like so many aquaria questions, the answer is 'it depends'. -- www.NetMax.tk "Sarah" wrote in message om... I've found several vendors on Ebay that will sell me a CO2 regulator, a pH meter, some funky black thing whose name I forget to regulate bubbles. The bundle comes out to about $250. I'll willing to spend that money. My question is - where do I get CO2 tanks. I'm an EMT, I know where to get O2. But where does an aquarist get CO2? Also, my water has a high pH (about 7.6-7.8). I know adding CO2 lowers pH which would be good for the tank. I'm now sure what my gH and Kh are. Would using a peat layer underneath my gravel be beneficial? Sarah (Giancarlo Podio) wrote in message om... Sounds like you actually have a 75 gallon rather than a 55. Four 55w CFs would give you a nice amount of light, but very close to too much for a non-pressurized CO2 setup. I would aim slightly lower if you plan to use DIY CO2. But still, if you have the patience to keep up with them, a couple DIY CO2 bottles will work for you. I wouldn't waste any money on off-the-shelf DIY CO2, they are no better than regular DIY yeast/sugar mixes, save the money for a pressurized setup. As for the lighting, again probably a little too long, I'd start with 10-12 hours and see how things go, you may find yourself reducing it if you run into any problems. Filter wise, the 2217 is what I use on both 55 and 90 gallon tanks so I know that will work very well for you. The 2028 is just as good, pretty much the same size, a little bigger media storage I believe but very much the same. The HOB you can throw out the window, it's only going to reduce your CO2 levels and it's not needed as any one of the other filters you have is more than sufficient. A good size fish load may also help maintain higher CO2 levels, but obviously don't go overboard. As for the substrate, flourite/gravel mix works well, I'd add a handfull of peat moss to the lowest layer along with 5-6 crushed Flourish Tabs. Then cap it all with 3-4 inches of flourite/gravel mix. I don't think you'll be able to maintain such a steep slope for too long (4" in back, 1/2-3/4" in front) plus that could cause nutrients to come out of the lower layers of the substrate. I'd go with 4" in the back and 3" in front, all the same gravel/flourite mix in case you decide you want some foreground plants in the future. Here's some basic info regarding DIY CO2 setups: http://www.gpodio.com/diy_co2.asp Hope that helps Giancarlo Podio |
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How to get CO2 for 55 gallon
The amount of data available can be mind boggling. It's better to start
at the beginning. If you want a planted tank, you need light, water, plants and nutrients (which you get from the back end of a fish after it is fed ;~). Assuming your typical lighted tank (ie: 0.8 watts per gallon), this arrangement will grow a variety of plants, slowly at first and then they will pick up speed a bit. Some will not grow well, so you will not be 100% successful (50% is pretty typical). You take your victories and work with them, typically keeping about 6 to 8 types of plants. You can stop here, #1. Your next plateau is a lighting upgrade to around 2 wpg. This is enough to see a noticeable difference in plant growth but not have the algae go crazy. Your victories will grow faster, and some plants which had been labouring will start showing more promise. With the investment in lighting, a substrate change is usually attempted at this point, to a finer gravel. You can stop here, #2. Next plateau is either upgrading to around 3 wpg and/or adding CO2 (they tend to go hand in hand at this level, as well as another substrate change). With CO2, your victories might become a nuisance, but pruning keeps them under control. Plants which were labouring will show new growth. Some plants will die and there are still always plants which you cannot grow, but the list of failures get shorter. Some of the plants which seemed to be doing badly under the new higher light may return from the dead with new leaves which don't burn so easily. Plants are extremely adaptable, and with high light and CO2, they have a source of energy to make their corrections. You can stop here, #3. With CO2 and high light, it is like your aquarium is a time machine, where time moves very quickly. Not only do plants grow quickly, but they quickly strip the nutrients out of the water. At this compressed time scale, when plants hit a constraint (ie: some mineral), they either hit a wall (stop growing), or their rate of growth quickly diminishes as their momentum is carried by stored energy, instead of water column nutrients. Various symptoms appear (leaf coloration, growth rate etc). Enter the world of adding fertilizers. There are automatic dosers, or you can do it manually, weekly to daily, adjusting what trace minerals you add by the visible symptoms. As long as things are becoming more automated, a pressurized CO2 system starts making more sense. You can stop here, #4. Ironically, aquatic plants (which suggests a very natural biotope) can go from one extreme (no filters, no artificial lights) to another extreme (very scientific and technical). There is no right or wrong, you decide where on this scale you feel most comfortable, and the scale above was quite arbitrary. You can mix & match and I'm sure everyone advances through differently. I'm responsible for over a hundred tanks and while they range through the first 3 categories, most are between #2 and #3 (non-CO2, fine gravel, under 1.2 wpg with a heavy fish-load (natural fertilizer)), and the plants are gorgeous. My pruning load is acceptable and I've found 3 plants which I cannot grow very well (out of hundreds). If you are not sure where you will position yourself, then try not to make any purchases which will restrict you later. Canister filters are plant-tank friendly. A lighting upgrade is always a good investment. Fine gravel is plant friendly. CO2 can always be added later. I personally wouldn't waste much time and effort on substrate mixes. Once the ideal size and texture is achieved, the differences start becoming too subtle for me. Regarding your water, measuring your source water might have been more useful than some tank water, due to the presence of materials which would alter the tank water's parameters after a while. Your kH 8 is your buffer (8 degrees, or 143ppm). This is high enough to make your tank's pH quite stable (stability is desirable, but it makes the pH harder to change too). Your gH 13 (230ppm of primarily calcium) is listed as fairly hard by http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-chem.html#reference . If I reverse engineer your numbers, your pH is around 7.8, a bit high for some applications but still very manageable. I've grown many plants in much harder and more alkaline water, so while it isn't ideal, it is not too far off the mark for low effort, if your expectations aren't too high. I don't have any tanks running your parameters (I have some much higher and much lower), so I can't speak from personal advice. I think you're a good candidate for CO2 injection (if you decide to go that way), but the effects will not be as dramatic as if the water had been softer to start with. Some people soften their water by diluting it with RO, DI or rainwater, but this adds a level of maintenance which some people find excessive. In your conditions, very high light and no CO2 would be a formula for algae, so I recommend that if not using CO2, keep your light level under 3wpg. If using CO2, you will probably find dual DIYs or pressurized will work best. Some helpful articles here : http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm and I have many more sites bookmarked. I don't know how interested you are in researching this to death (and I wouldn't). I'm no expert but there isn't necessarily a 'right' way to do it anyways. If you want an underwater garden au-naturel and are willing to wait for it, then start the tank with a variety of plants and take it from there. If you want more instant gratification, then get that CO2 bubbling and sharpen some scissors ). Either way, some plants will not do well, and that's perfectly normal. I hope what my answers lacked in accuracy, I've made up for in perspective ;~). -- www.NetMax.tk "Sarah" wrote in message om... I did check my parameters tonight. kH 8 and gH 13. Those are the parameters in my existing 25 gallon. It does have one large piece of bog wood and a couple of fist sized stones all from the lfs. Right now these numbers don't mean much to me since I've never paid attention to them before. I'm so confused. There are so many variables: CO2, substrate, lighting - and I'm getting so much advice. Maybe I should just fill the tank, try it out and fix things that don't work as I go along? I'm trying to set this tank up right but the "right" way to do it is getting very murky. "NetMax" wrote in message m... Perhaps it's because I don't have any background that it might seem to me like you are rushing into CO2. Have you had planted tanks before such that you know you need/want CO2? Most of my planted tanks do not have CO2 and it means that I don't have to prune quite as often ;~). My CO2 tanks keep my pH low which is fine for the fish I have in there. I don't have any plants which require CO2 to do well, and having over 100 aquariums, mostly planted, I'd be willing to wager that there isn't anyone here with a bigger selection (I manage a fish store). Light still seems to be the first constraint. CO2 injection with poor light doesn't get you much further than if you didn't have CO2. Have you measured your kH yet? The value of an automated injector monitoring your pH would depend on whether your pH was likely to change much, which would depend on your kH. Having used flourite and gravel, I don't think I'd spend the extra for flourite again. There are too many more important growth factors ahead of whether your gravel is stone or fractured clay. jmo I guess it depends on your level of expertise, your objective and how quickly you want to get there. -- www.NetMax.tk "Sarah" wrote in message om... I'm trying to follow your advice! Actually, I'm looking into as many possiblities as possible. Right now my tank is sitting empty in my room. I've rushed into tanks before but I want to research this one and start out right. (Plus I'm still looking for a place to find flourite at a decent price). I will probably go with one or two of the DIY CO2 injectors for now but I figured I'd look at what my options are as far as the more elaborate CO2 injectors on the market. In the long run, isn't it better to have an automated pressurized system that will keep track of pH? "NetMax" wrote in message m... LOL, you don't sound like you are following any advice in this thread, but as long as you are still learning and we are giving you ideas, then it's all good ;~) Your phone book should have listings. Many industries use CO2 so it's readily available, but prices will vary. Before installing the CO2, it would be instructive to know what your gH and kH levels are. I don't think CO2 injection would do much to my tap water when it's at 35dgH 16dkH, and if you are at 3dgH 2dkH then you might be pearling your plants and looking for a way to periodically turn off the CO2, so like so many aquaria questions, the answer is 'it depends'. -- www.NetMax.tk "Sarah" wrote in message om... I've found several vendors on Ebay that will sell me a CO2 regulator, a pH meter, some funky black thing whose name I forget to regulate bubbles. The bundle comes out to about $250. I'll willing to spend that money. My question is - where do I get CO2 tanks. I'm an EMT, I know where to get O2. But where does an aquarist get CO2? Also, my water has a high pH (about 7.6-7.8). I know adding CO2 lowers pH which would be good for the tank. I'm now sure what my gH and Kh are. Would using a peat layer underneath my gravel be beneficial? Sarah (Giancarlo Podio) wrote in message om... Sounds like you actually have a 75 gallon rather than a 55. Four 55w CFs would give you a nice amount of light, but very close to too much for a non-pressurized CO2 setup. I would aim slightly lower if you plan to use DIY CO2. But still, if you have the patience to keep up with them, a couple DIY CO2 bottles will work for you. I wouldn't waste any money on off-the-shelf DIY CO2, they are no better than regular DIY yeast/sugar mixes, save the money for a pressurized setup. As for the lighting, again probably a little too long, I'd start with 10-12 hours and see how things go, you may find yourself reducing it if you run into any problems. Filter wise, the 2217 is what I use on both 55 and 90 gallon tanks so I know that will work very well for you. The 2028 is just as good, pretty much the same size, a little bigger media storage I believe but very much the same. The HOB you can throw out the window, it's only going to reduce your CO2 levels and it's not needed as any one of the other filters you have is more than sufficient. A good size fish load may also help maintain higher CO2 levels, but obviously don't go overboard. As for the substrate, flourite/gravel mix works well, I'd add a handfull of peat moss to the lowest layer along with 5-6 crushed Flourish Tabs. Then cap it all with 3-4 inches of flourite/gravel mix. I don't think you'll be able to maintain such a steep slope for too long (4" in back, 1/2-3/4" in front) plus that could cause nutrients to come out of the lower layers of the substrate. I'd go with 4" in the back and 3" in front, all the same gravel/flourite mix in case you decide you want some foreground plants in the future. Here's some basic info regarding DIY CO2 setups: http://www.gpodio.com/diy_co2.asp Hope that helps Giancarlo Podio |
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