I'm in the process of beginning my second annual indoor seed starting
exercise. I had a great time last year and learned a great deal.
With the exception of 80 MPH winds that blew over about 100 seedlings
that were hardening off, I had pretty decent success (the little
containers actually blew throughout the entire neighborhood).

I have two questions that I could use some help with:

1. Is there a good rule of thumb to determine when seedlings should be
repotted? I think that I stunted the growth of some perennials last
year by not moving them to larger pots. My Purple Coneflowers looked
healthy all year, but never grew higher than 2-3" after they were
placed outside. I used the little jiffy pellets for them and they had
a couple inches of roots dangling beneath them when I transplanted.
They definitely should have been repotted, but I thought they would
start cruising along when I planted them out...? Should be
interesting to see how they do this year.

2. I picked up some Munstead Lavender seed to grow as an annual. The
seed packet said to start indoors anytime during the winter, so I
started it right away. I'm still about 12 weeks to last frost - is
the lavender going to have a hard time being transplanted after
becoming accustomed to the comfortable indoor conditions? If space is
really the only issue, I can make room for them and still provide
ample light.

Thanks all!

Aaron
Zone 4
Minneapolis, MN

1. Is there a good rule of thumb to determine when seedlings should be
repotted?

Seedlings should be transplanted when they have their second set of real
leaves.

2. I picked up some Munstead Lavender seed to grow as an annual. The
seed packet said to start indoors anytime during the winter, so I
started it right away. I'm still about 12 weeks to last frost - is
the lavender going to have a hard time being transplanted after
becoming accustomed to the comfortable indoor conditions? If space is
really the only issue, I can make room for them and still provide
ample light.

It's not clear when you started them but these seeds are slow to germinate
so you should be ok as long as you give them lots of light (so that they
don't get spindly) and harden them off properly in a cold frame of some
sort.

--
Shadow
Made In Canada, eh

Seedlings should be transplanted when they have their second set of real
leaves.

How will I know when they need to be transplanted a second time. I
think this may be the case for tomatoes and some of the other larger
plants that I start. I suppose if they get root-bound, it's time to
repot...? On the other hand, I've bought healthy plants from
nurseries that are basically a small pot of solid roots.

It's not clear when you started them but these seeds are slow to germinate
so you should be ok as long as you give them lots of light (so that they
don't get spindly) and harden them off properly in a cold frame of some
sort.

I started them about 12 weeks before last frost. I agree that they've
been slow to germinate, my Blue Spruce seeds are sprouting faster!

Great to see a message from another gardener in the great north, eh.

Thanks,

- Shiltsy

Hi! I had a small greenhouse/nursery where I grew lots of herbs for 12
years...just to give my credentials! I would save the money spent on
jiffy pellets, they are a nice theory but I have found them less than
ideal. Shadow's advice to transplant after 2nd set of leaves is
righton, but keep in mind it is the ideal and a bit older (if the
seedlings have enough room) can work fine. I found plants to be MUCH
tougher than given credit for! I would guess that you cone flowers
will go loike gang busters this year!
The lavender, well good luck! I found that cuttings were a much
better way to go! The seeds are slow and have VERY low germination in
the best of situations! 12 weeks is none to long! When they get up try
and keep them close to a window, not just for light but for the cool
temps at night. also stroke them! Thats right! Pet you seedlings
several times a day!!! It is true! what that does is simulate a bit
of wind and helps thicken the stems, even when very young! If you get
it going... try and keep some in a pot to over winter and take
cuttings in the future! It needs bright light, soil on the dry side
and right by a window to stay as cold as possible without freezeing.
Good (Shiltsy) wrote in message
. com...
I'm in the process of beginning my second annual indoor seed starting
exercise. I had a great time last year and learned a great deal.
With the exception of 80 MPH winds that blew over about 100 seedlings
that were hardening off, I had pretty decent success (the little
containers actually blew throughout the entire neighborhood).

I have two questions that I could use some help with:

1. Is there a good rule of thumb to determine when seedlings should be
repotted? I think that I stunted the growth of some perennials last
year by not moving them to larger pots. My Purple Coneflowers looked
healthy all year, but never grew higher than 2-3" after they were
placed outside. I used the little jiffy pellets for them and they had
a couple inches of roots dangling beneath them when I transplanted.
They definitely should have been repotted, but I thought they would
start cruising along when I planted them out...? Should be
interesting to see how they do this year.

2. I picked up some Munstead Lavender seed to grow as an annual. The
seed packet said to start indoors anytime during the winter, so I
started it right away. I'm still about 12 weeks to last frost - is
the lavender going to have a hard time being transplanted after
becoming accustomed to the comfortable indoor conditions? If space is
really the only issue, I can make room for them and still provide
ample light.

Thanks all!

Aaron
Zone 4
Minneapolis, MN

How will I know when they need to be transplanted a second time.

I would advise against transplanting them a second time until you are ready
to plant them outside in the ground. Depending on the plant, give it a
suitable sized container when you re-pot them (in other words, large enough
so that it won't out-grow it). If it does seem like it is getting root
bound, don't fret too much. Like you've already pointed out, store bought
plants are a virtual ball of roots. When you re-pot them, give them a weak
drink of transplant fertilizer, then again when you transplant them outside.
Of course, having said that, every gardener has ther own special formula of
success -- this is just what works for me. Also, be sure to give them plenty
of light so they don't get spindly. I use adjustable flourescent grow lights
that hang just a few inches above the seedlings.

--
Shadow
Made In Canada, eh.