QUESTION: “I was looking for information online about blueberries,
plants for shade and composting and found your site. Could you email
me the article on composting as I would like to start a compost pile.

”Also I did have a question on my established blueberry plants. They
are 6 mature plants; they are 4 feet high and I know two of them are
Northland variety that were here when we moved in three years ago. I
transplanted them in a row about 2 feet apart, to the east side of our
woods as we live in a wooded two-acre lot. They were near the house
where they received only a few hours of sun midday so I thought they
would get more sun on the outer edge.

”I haven't pruned them yet as I didn't know how to do it. (They really
need it!) I recently found this information that recommends peat moss,
sand, or sawdust in the soil. My question is: should I dig up the
plants and re-plant them with the adequate soil content? The soil we
have has more clay matter. I do not know the pH level of the soil.
They did better last year for bearing fruit but have much new growth
this year. Thanks for your help!” – Karen

ANSWER: Here are links to the composting articles that I believe will
be helpful: http://landsteward.org/page.cfm/33585, http://landsteward.org/page.cfm/8875

Additionally, if you simply go to the landsteward.org site and put
“compost” in the search field, you should find about ten Plant Man
columns and articles on aspects of composting and soil enrichment.

As for the blueberry plants, I would not dig them up and replace the
soil, at least until after dormancy. I would, however, begin to add
organic things to the soil as a top dressing that will leach down and
become part of the soil over the years. The best thing I have found is
a product called Black Kow. It is a composted manure and as a top
dressing it is really wonderful on the plants and leaves no odor.

QUESTION: “We have a steep hill in front of our house. The house was
built on a "pad" which was carved out of the hill. We are new to the
house but we suspect that erosion has taken place beyond the front
yard down the steep slope. I have thought of terracing but it is hard
to imagine how to terrace it as it is so steep. We would like to do
this the most inexpensive yet productive way.” – Liz

ANSWER: For serious erosion problems, you should install erosion
netting. This will control the situation and allow you time to
consider what you would like to plant there. You can follow up with
ground covers, ornamental grasses, shrubs, perennials, etc, by cutting
X's in the netting and planting.

However, you will need to set a sprinkler on the area for longer
periods to make certain that the water goes through the netting and
into the ground. Mulch wouldn't be a good idea over it as it would
only wash away.

QUESTION: “I have recently purchased a farm that included a pond.
However this pond looks like it was designed to grow duckweed! Do you
have any suggestions on how to kill this pest without the need for
store bought highly priced chemicals?” – Victor Cummins

ANSWER: Duckweed is a simple plant without any obvious stems or
leaves. They float on or just below the surface of the water and are a
food source for water fowl (and even humans in parts of southeast
Asia). Once established in a pond, duckweed can be difficult to
eradicate. If a colony of duckweed covers the water surface, oxygen
depletion can occur, killing any fish in the pond. These plants should
be controlled before they cover the entire surface of the pond Here is
a link to Perdue University on controlling duckweed and watermeal.
Good luck on the situation. http://www.btny.purdue.edu/pubs/APM/APM-2-W.pdf
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs
and landscaping to and for resources and
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newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org