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Irrigation winterizing
I have an irrigation system that I need to winterize. In the past I
used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70. I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need to do. Here are some pictures of my backflow: http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG Thanks! |
#2
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Irrigation winterizing
Mensur wrote:
I have an irrigation system that I need to winterize. In the past I used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70. I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need to do. Here are some pictures of my backflow: http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG Thanks! Well, you would first Google Wilkins Zurn to find the manufacturer's website. Then you would use the search tool on that website to find the 975XL backflow preventer. Finally you would download the Installation, Testing, and Maintenance Instructions. The diagrams provided would then clearly indicate that you can attach your compressor to Test Cock #4. You would, of course, also want to know what pressure is acceptable to use by referring to the specification page. Or you could just pay the guy $70 to do the work for you. Heck, for $50 bucks I'll send you the pdf since I already did the work to find the little bit of information for you. - dave a |
#3
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Irrigation winterizing
I read the pdf but there was nothing about winterizing. How did you
figure it out? Do I need to open any test cock while I'm doing this? |
#4
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Irrigation winterizing
On Nov 20, 9:01*pm, dave a wrote:
Mensur wrote: I have anirrigationsystem that I need towinterize. In the past I used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70. I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need to do. Here are some pictures of my backflow: http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG Thanks! Well, you would first Google Wilkins Zurn to find the manufacturer's website. *Then you would use the search tool on that website to find the 975XL backflow preventer. *Finally you would download the Installation, Testing, and Maintenance Instructions. *The diagrams provided would then clearly indicate that you can attach your compressor to Test Cock #4. You would, of course, also want to know what pressure is acceptable to use by referring to the specification page. Or you could just pay the guy $70 to do the work for you. *Heck, for $50 bucks I'll send you the pdf since I already did the work to find the little bit of information for you. - dave a- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I read the pdf but didn't see anything about winterizing. How did you figure it out? Do I need to open test cock #4 before I attch the compressor? What about any other test cocks? |
#5
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Irrigation winterizing
Mensur wrote:
On Nov 20, 9:01 pm, dave a wrote: Mensur wrote: I have anirrigationsystem that I need towinterize. In the past I used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70. I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need to do. Here are some pictures of my backflow: http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG Thanks! Well, you would first Google Wilkins Zurn to find the manufacturer's website. Then you would use the search tool on that website to find the 975XL backflow preventer. Finally you would download the Installation, Testing, and Maintenance Instructions. The diagrams provided would then clearly indicate that you can attach your compressor to Test Cock #4. You would, of course, also want to know what pressure is acceptable to use by referring to the specification page. Or you could just pay the guy $70 to do the work for you. Heck, for $50 bucks I'll send you the pdf since I already did the work to find the little bit of information for you. - dave a- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I read the pdf but didn't see anything about winterizing. How did you figure it out? Do I need to open test cock #4 before I attch the compressor? What about any other test cocks? Well, all of my advice is simply from looking at your pictures and reading the Installation and Maintenance pdf. Test cock #4 appears to be on the output side of the regulator. Therefore, I would think the procedure is to close the input valve, attach the compressor to #4, slowly open #4. I assume you also have downstream valves to control individual watering stations. It would seem obvious that to drain the system you will need to open each of the downstream valves and let the air force the water out. The other test cocks appear to allow pressure monitoring within different sections of the regulator and would not be used for what you are doing. I would make sure the air pressure is high enough to clear the water but not so high as to blow out the diaphrams in your regulator. Remember, $70 is a lot less than a new regulator or irrigation system. |
#6
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Irrigation winterizing
dave a wrote:
Mensur wrote: dave a wrote: Mensur wrote: I have anirrigationsystem that I need towinterize. In the past I used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70. I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need to do. Here are some pictures of my backflow: http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG Thanks! Well, you would first Google Wilkins Zurn to find the manufacturer's website. �Then you would use the search tool on that website to find the 975XL backflow preventer. �Finally you would download the Installation, Testing, and Maintenance Instructions. �The diagrams provided would then clearly indicate that you can attach your compressor to Test Cock #4. You would, of course, also want to know what pressure is acceptable to use by referring to the specification page. Or you could just pay the guy $70 to do the work for you. �Heck, for $50 bucks I'll send you the pdf since I already did the work to find the little bit of information for you. - dave a- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I read the pdf but didn't see anything about winterizing. How did you figure it out? Do I need to open test cock #4 before I attch the compressor? What about any other test cocks? Well, all of my advice is simply from looking at your pictures and reading the Installation and Maintenance pdf. �Test cock #4 appears to be on the output side of the regulator. �Therefore, I would think the procedure is to close the input valve, attach the compressor to #4, slowly open #4. �I assume you also have downstream valves to control individual watering stations. �It would seem obvious that to drain the system you will need to open each of the downstream valves and let the air force the water out. The other test cocks appear to allow pressure monitoring within different sections of the regulator and would not be used for what you are doing. I would make sure the air pressure is high enough to clear the water but not so high as to blow out the diaphrams in your regulator. Remember, $70 is a lot less than a new regulator or irrigation system. When I had an auto sprinkler system I found it well worth the cost of contracting for service from the installer to have it shut down at the end of season and started up in the spring. There were almost always a few heads that needed readjustment and/or replacement and as part of the service they replaced parts at cost, or at least less than I could buy them myself. They checked that the solenoids/valves, etc. functioned properly and reset the clock. They would also raise heads or move them over as shrubs grew larger. I had a six zone system, six years ago I paid $45 a year for the service, plus parts (parts never amounted to more than $50, because they could often replace a small part instead of the entire head). My neighbor was a cheapskate. He installed his system himself, his yard was a mess of hand dug trenches that had still not totally healed years later... mine was installed by a machine that left not a trace of a scar. Mine worked perfectly from the get go, his never worked properly and was totally down more than it worked and he was constantly searching for underground leaks. In the end I paid less, my lawn was always green, and I had no agrivation. Winterizing was the easiest part, the service guy was finished in fifteen minutes, his compressor was in his truck parked in the road, with a hose that rerached into my yard... there was a small fiberglass vault in the ground that contained the manifold, only took a few seconds to blow out each zone. Start up in the spring took about a half hour, he's cycle through all the zones and make any adjustments. The price also included emergency calls... a couple of times some drunken teens would kick a sprinkler head out by the curb in the wee hours. I don't know what service would cost today but for $70 it's well worth it. |
#7
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Irrigation winterizing
On Nov 21, 1:11*pm, Sheldon wrote:
dave a wrote: Mensur wrote: dave a wrote: Mensur wrote: I have anirrigationsystem that I need towinterize. In the past I used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70.. I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need to do. Here are some pictures of my backflow: http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG Thanks! Well, you would first Google Wilkins Zurn to find the manufacturer's website. Then you would use the search tool on that website to find the 975XL backflow preventer. Finally you would download the Installation, Testing, and Maintenance Instructions. The diagrams provided would then clearly indicate that you can attach your compressor to Test Cock #4.. You would, of course, also want to know what pressure is acceptable to use by referring to the specification page. Or you could just pay the guy $70 to do the work for you. Heck, for $50 bucks I'll send you the pdf since I already did the work to find the little bit of information for you. - dave a- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I read the pdf but didn't see anything about winterizing. How did you figure it out? Do I need to open test cock #4 before I attch the compressor? What about any other test cocks? Well, all of my advice is simply from looking at your pictures and reading the Installation and Maintenance pdf. Test cock #4 appears to be on the output side of the regulator. Therefore, I would think the procedure is to close the input valve, attach the compressor to #4, slowly open #4. I assume you also have downstream valves to control individual watering stations. It would seem obvious that to drain the system you will need to open each of the downstream valves and let the air force the water out. The other test cocks appear to allow pressure monitoring within different sections of the regulator and would not be used for what you are doing. I would make sure the air pressure is high enough to clear the water but not so high as to blow out the diaphrams in your regulator. Remember, $70 is a lot less than a new regulator orirrigationsystem. When I had an auto sprinkler system I found it well worth the cost of contracting for service from the installer to have it shut down at the end of season and started up in the spring. *There were almost always a few heads that needed readjustment and/or replacement and as part of the service they replaced parts at cost, or at least less than I could buy them myself. *They checked that the solenoids/valves, etc. functioned properly and reset the clock. *They would also raise heads or move them over as shrubs grew larger. * I had a six zone system, six years ago I paid $45 a year for the service, plus parts (parts never amounted to more than $50, because they could often replace a small part instead of the entire head). *My neighbor was a cheapskate. *He installed his system himself, his yard was a mess of hand dug trenches that had still not totally healed years later... mine was installed by a machine that left not a trace of a scar. *Mine worked perfectly from the get go, his never worked properly and was totally down more than it worked and he was constantly searching for underground leaks. *In the end I paid less, my lawn was always green, and I had no agrivation. *Winterizing was the easiest part, the service guy was finished in fifteen minutes, his compressor was in his truck parked in the road, with a hose that rerached into my yard... there was a small fiberglass vault in the ground that contained the manifold, only took a few seconds to blow out each zone. *Start up in the spring took about a half hour, he's cycle through all the zones and make any adjustments. *The price also included emergency calls... a couple of times some drunken teens would kick a sprinkler head out by the curb in the wee hours. *I don't know what service would cost today but for $70 it's well worth it.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The problem is the service includes only winterization and nothing else. If I had to pay $70 a yead I'd definetely do it. Given that the service you are describing would cost upwards of $200, I am not sure that is such a great deal. |
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