I have an irrigation system that I need to winterize. In the past I
used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already
have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70.
I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I
don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me
where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need
to do.

Here are some pictures of my backflow:

http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG

Thanks!

Mensur wrote:
I have an irrigation system that I need to winterize. In the past I
used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already
have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70.
I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I
don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me
where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need
to do.

Here are some pictures of my backflow:

http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG

Thanks!

Well, you would first Google Wilkins Zurn to find the manufacturer's
website. Then you would use the search tool on that website to find the
975XL backflow preventer. Finally you would download the Installation,
Testing, and Maintenance Instructions. The diagrams provided would then
clearly indicate that you can attach your compressor to Test Cock #4.
You would, of course, also want to know what pressure is acceptable to
use by referring to the specification page.

Or you could just pay the guy $70 to do the work for you. Heck, for $50
bucks I'll send you the pdf since I already did the work to find the
little bit of information for you.

- dave a

I read the pdf but there was nothing about winterizing. How did you
figure it out? Do I need to open any test cock while I'm doing this?

On Nov 20, 9:01*pm, dave a wrote:
Mensur wrote:
I have anirrigationsystem that I need towinterize. In the past I
used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already
have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70.
I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I
don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me
where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need
to do.

Here are some pictures of my backflow:

http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG

Thanks!

Well, you would first Google Wilkins Zurn to find the manufacturer's
website. *Then you would use the search tool on that website to find the
975XL backflow preventer. *Finally you would download the Installation,
Testing, and Maintenance Instructions. *The diagrams provided would then
clearly indicate that you can attach your compressor to Test Cock #4.
You would, of course, also want to know what pressure is acceptable to
use by referring to the specification page.

Or you could just pay the guy $70 to do the work for you. *Heck, for $50
bucks I'll send you the pdf since I already did the work to find the
little bit of information for you.

- dave a- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I read the pdf but didn't see anything about winterizing. How did you
figure it out? Do I need to open test cock #4 before I attch the
compressor? What about any other test cocks?

Mensur wrote:
On Nov 20, 9:01 pm, dave a wrote:
Mensur wrote:
I have anirrigationsystem that I need towinterize. In the past I
used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already
have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70.
I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I
don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me
where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need
to do.
Here are some pictures of my backflow:
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG
Thanks!
Well, you would first Google Wilkins Zurn to find the manufacturer's
website. Then you would use the search tool on that website to find the
975XL backflow preventer. Finally you would download the Installation,
Testing, and Maintenance Instructions. The diagrams provided would then
clearly indicate that you can attach your compressor to Test Cock #4.
You would, of course, also want to know what pressure is acceptable to
use by referring to the specification page.

Or you could just pay the guy $70 to do the work for you. Heck, for $50
bucks I'll send you the pdf since I already did the work to find the
little bit of information for you.

- dave a- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I read the pdf but didn't see anything about winterizing. How did you
figure it out? Do I need to open test cock #4 before I attch the
compressor? What about any other test cocks?


Well, all of my advice is simply from looking at your pictures and
reading the Installation and Maintenance pdf. Test cock #4 appears to
be on the output side of the regulator. Therefore, I would think the
procedure is to close the input valve, attach the compressor to #4,
slowly open #4. I assume you also have downstream valves to control
individual watering stations. It would seem obvious that to drain the
system you will need to open each of the downstream valves and let the
air force the water out.

The other test cocks appear to allow pressure monitoring within
different sections of the regulator and would not be used for what you
are doing.

I would make sure the air pressure is high enough to clear the water but
not so high as to blow out the diaphrams in your regulator.

Remember, $70 is a lot less than a new regulator or irrigation system.

dave a wrote:
Mensur wrote:
dave a wrote:
Mensur wrote:
I have anirrigationsystem that I need towinterize. In the past I
used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already
have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70.
I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I
don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me
where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need
to do.
Here are some pictures of my backflow:
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG
Thanks!
Well, you would first Google Wilkins Zurn to find the manufacturer's
website. �Then you would use the search tool on that website to find the
975XL backflow preventer. �Finally you would download the Installation,
Testing, and Maintenance Instructions. �The diagrams provided would then
clearly indicate that you can attach your compressor to Test Cock #4.
You would, of course, also want to know what pressure is acceptable to
use by referring to the specification page.

Or you could just pay the guy $70 to do the work for you. �Heck, for $50
bucks I'll send you the pdf since I already did the work to find the
little bit of information for you.

- dave a- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I read the pdf but didn't see anything about winterizing. How did you
figure it out? Do I need to open test cock #4 before I attch the
compressor? What about any other test cocks?

Well, all of my advice is simply from looking at your pictures and
reading the Installation and Maintenance pdf. �Test cock #4 appears to
be on the output side of the regulator. �Therefore, I would think the
procedure is to close the input valve, attach the compressor to #4,
slowly open #4. �I assume you also have downstream valves to control
individual watering stations. �It would seem obvious that to drain the
system you will need to open each of the downstream valves and let the
air force the water out.

The other test cocks appear to allow pressure monitoring within
different sections of the regulator and would not be used for what you
are doing.

I would make sure the air pressure is high enough to clear the water but
not so high as to blow out the diaphrams in your regulator.

Remember, $70 is a lot less than a new regulator or irrigation system.

When I had an auto sprinkler system I found it well worth the cost of
contracting for service from the installer to have it shut down at the
end of season and started up in the spring. There were almost always
a few heads that needed readjustment and/or replacement and as part of
the service they replaced parts at cost, or at least less than I could
buy them myself. They checked that the solenoids/valves, etc.
functioned properly and reset the clock. They would also raise heads
or move them over as shrubs grew larger. I had a six zone system,
six years ago I paid $45 a year for the service, plus parts (parts
never amounted to more than $50, because they could often replace a
small part instead of the entire head). My neighbor was a
cheapskate. He installed his system himself, his yard was a mess of
hand dug trenches that had still not totally healed years later...
mine was installed by a machine that left not a trace of a scar. Mine
worked perfectly from the get go, his never worked properly and was
totally down more than it worked and he was constantly searching for
underground leaks. In the end I paid less, my lawn was always green,
and I had no agrivation. Winterizing was the easiest part, the
service guy was finished in fifteen minutes, his compressor was in his
truck parked in the road, with a hose that rerached into my yard...
there was a small fiberglass vault in the ground that contained the
manifold, only took a few seconds to blow out each zone. Start up in
the spring took about a half hour, he's cycle through all the zones
and make any adjustments. The price also included emergency calls...
a couple of times some drunken teens would kick a sprinkler head out
by the curb in the wee hours. I don't know what service would cost
today but for $70 it's well worth it.

On Nov 21, 1:11*pm, Sheldon wrote:
dave a wrote:
Mensur wrote:
dave a wrote:
Mensur wrote:
I have anirrigationsystem that I need towinterize. In the past I
used to hire a guy who installed the sprinklers but since I already
have the compressor and everything else I need, I'd rather save $70..
I've seen him hook up the compressor somewhere on the back low but I
don't know where. I was hoping that someone would be able to tell me
where to attach it and if there is anything else special I would need
to do.
Here are some pictures of my backflow:
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02319.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02320.JPG
http://www.medicfamily.com/tmp/DSC02321.JPG
Thanks!
Well, you would first Google Wilkins Zurn to find the manufacturer's
website. Then you would use the search tool on that website to find the
975XL backflow preventer. Finally you would download the Installation,
Testing, and Maintenance Instructions. The diagrams provided would then
clearly indicate that you can attach your compressor to Test Cock #4..
You would, of course, also want to know what pressure is acceptable to
use by referring to the specification page.

Or you could just pay the guy $70 to do the work for you. Heck, for $50
bucks I'll send you the pdf since I already did the work to find the
little bit of information for you.

- dave a- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I read the pdf but didn't see anything about winterizing. How did you
figure it out? Do I need to open test cock #4 before I attch the
compressor? What about any other test cocks?

Well, all of my advice is simply from looking at your pictures and
reading the Installation and Maintenance pdf. Test cock #4 appears to
be on the output side of the regulator. Therefore, I would think the
procedure is to close the input valve, attach the compressor to #4,
slowly open #4. I assume you also have downstream valves to control
individual watering stations. It would seem obvious that to drain the
system you will need to open each of the downstream valves and let the
air force the water out.

The other test cocks appear to allow pressure monitoring within
different sections of the regulator and would not be used for what you
are doing.

I would make sure the air pressure is high enough to clear the water but
not so high as to blow out the diaphrams in your regulator.

Remember, $70 is a lot less than a new regulator orirrigationsystem.

When I had an auto sprinkler system I found it well worth the cost of
contracting for service from the installer to have it shut down at the
end of season and started up in the spring. *There were almost always
a few heads that needed readjustment and/or replacement and as part of
the service they replaced parts at cost, or at least less than I could
buy them myself. *They checked that the solenoids/valves, etc.
functioned properly and reset the clock. *They would also raise heads
or move them over as shrubs grew larger. * I had a six zone system,
six years ago I paid $45 a year for the service, plus parts (parts
never amounted to more than $50, because they could often replace a
small part instead of the entire head). *My neighbor was a
cheapskate. *He installed his system himself, his yard was a mess of
hand dug trenches that had still not totally healed years later...
mine was installed by a machine that left not a trace of a scar. *Mine
worked perfectly from the get go, his never worked properly and was
totally down more than it worked and he was constantly searching for
underground leaks. *In the end I paid less, my lawn was always green,
and I had no agrivation. *Winterizing was the easiest part, the
service guy was finished in fifteen minutes, his compressor was in his
truck parked in the road, with a hose that rerached into my yard...
there was a small fiberglass vault in the ground that contained the
manifold, only took a few seconds to blow out each zone. *Start up in
the spring took about a half hour, he's cycle through all the zones
and make any adjustments. *The price also included emergency calls...
a couple of times some drunken teens would kick a sprinkler head out
by the curb in the wee hours. *I don't know what service would cost
today but for $70 it's well worth it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The problem is the service includes only winterization and nothing
else. If I had to pay $70 a yead I'd definetely do it. Given that the
service you are describing would cost upwards of $200, I am not sure
that is such a great deal.