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Old 09-04-2009, 10:01 PM
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Smile working with clay

Hi,

I'm trying to get my garden leveled as the builders put lot of clay soil when building the extension few years ago.

Currently the soil is bit sticky, moist inside and hard on top which is not that bad to work with.

I've moved the soil to lower part of my garden where i exactly want it to be. The problem now is that its bit lumpy and doesn't level properly.

I also want to put 3 inches of concrete once leveled.

Could anyone advice what will be the best solution to that. I was thinking of getting the vibrating plate on hire, but not sure if it will work.

Thanks
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Old 10-04-2009, 04:48 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Default working with clay

RK77 wrote:
Hi,

I'm trying to get my garden leveled as the builders put lot of clay
soil when building the extension few years ago.

Currently the soil is bit sticky, moist inside and hard on top which
is not that bad to work with.

I've moved the soil to lower part of my garden where i exactly want it
to be. The problem now is that its bit lumpy and doesn't level
properly.

I also want to put 3 inches of concrete once leveled.

Could anyone advice what will be the best solution to that. I was
thinking of getting the vibrating plate on hire, but not sure if it
will work.

Thanks


You might get better information at alt.pave.the.earth

David


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Old 10-04-2009, 03:48 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Default working with clay

"RK77" wrote:

I'm trying to get my garden leveled as the builders put lot of clay
soil when building the extension few years ago.

Currently the soil is bit sticky, moist inside and hard on top which is
not that bad to work with.

I've moved the soil to lower part of my garden where i exactly want it
to be. The problem now is that its bit lumpy and doesn't level
properly.

I also want to put 3 inches of concrete once leveled.

Could anyone advice what will be the best solution to that. I was
thinking of getting the vibrating plate on hire, but not sure if it
will work.


The clayey soil you moved to your garden (big mistake) should either be
removed or amended... I would remove it to another area or just put it back
where the paving will commence... I wouldn't bother leveling, the pavers
will *grade* and compact that area... you never want a paved area level,
unless you like puddles and cracked paving.


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Old 10-04-2009, 04:08 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Default working with clay

so you want to put a patio over the clay? this might not be the best idea because
water will drain to the lower part of the garden and if there is clay underneath it
will not drain so your patio may be standing in water.

you must let clay DRY OUT completely before working it at all. it would be a better
base to mix a lot of sand into that clay before leveling. around here in the US we
are being asked to not use concrete but rather blocks or even gravel which drains
well so there isnt run off into our sewer systems. a draining type material would be
better at the bottom of your garden. look better too.
Ingrid

On Thu, 9 Apr 2009 22:01:41 +0100, RK77 wrote:
I've moved the soil to lower part of my garden where i exactly want it
to be. The problem now is that its bit lumpy and doesn't level
properly.
I also want to put 3 inches of concrete once leveled.

Could anyone advice what will be the best solution to that. I was
thinking of getting the vibrating plate on hire, but not sure if it
will work.

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Old 10-04-2009, 10:28 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Default working with clay

I have heavy clay soil too. Be careful working with it when it is
wet; that's how you make those adobe bricks.
Break it up when it is dry and add some sharp sand and improve the
soil with compost or topsoil. Mix well.

Good luck,
Laura



--------------
Zone 9
So. California
http://www.theGardenPages.com




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Old 10-04-2009, 10:37 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Default working with clay



From what I recall, if the sand is too fine, clay particles will fall
in between the sand grains and turn cement-like. So it should be a
coarse sand.

When I was at the hort show last week, one of the suppliers
recommended sawdust - nitrogen issues, I know, but that only takes a
couple of years to resolve itself.

Dora
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:05 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Default working with clay

In article
,
Laura at theGardenPages wrote:

I have heavy clay soil too. Be careful working with it when it is
wet; that's how you make those adobe bricks.
Break it up when it is dry and add some sharp sand and improve the
soil with compost or topsoil. Mix well.

Good luck,
Laura



--------------
Zone 9
So. California
http://www.theGardenPages.com


Clay ----- 20 - 30%

Silt ----- 30 - 50%

Sand ----- 30 - 50%

5 - 10% compost

Plant rye or buckwheat in the fall or late spring for their extensive
root systems for a couple of years to put more organic material in your
soil.
Avoid chemical fertilizers. They kill soil and cost money.
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI29wVQN8Go

http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/1072040.html
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