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Old 01-07-2011, 05:21 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 08:43:15 +0000 (UTC), Nad R
wrote:

Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 01:31:31 +0000 (UTC), Nad R
wrote:

Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:05:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

When I was in the fire service, we learned that both length
and diameter matters. Smaller hose increases pressure drop,
usually measured in psi drop per 100 feet of length.
500 foot hose has 5 times the pressure drop of 100 foot
hose.

Prove it.

You obviously weren't paying attention in class... so long as pressure
and diameter remains constant volume remains constant... it's when
there is pressure loss and diameter decreases that volume decreases...
fire hose diameter reduces even when moved around corners... every
sailer learns this from shipboard fire control tutorials. And were
you truly in fire service you'd know that fire hose lays flat when
unpressurized and it's diameter changes with changes in pressure...
all you did at the firehouse is polish the firemen's poles.

The volume is not constant. The longer the hose, the greater the volume of
water is in the hose. More water in the hose the greater the weight of the
water and the pressure will decrease.


The weight of the water in teh pipe will only affect pressure if the
head of water is raised, but that has to do with gravity... if the
head of water is lowered volume will also increase.... but so long as
the pump rating is adequate for the lift the volume won't change.

Water pressure that comes from the city municipals have Huge pumps that can
"increase" the amount of energy to keep the pressure constant. Fire trucks
and Ship pumps will "increase" the energy to keep that pressure constant
and the length of hose will not matter as long as the length is within the
pumps limitations. Auto variable pumps are very expensive.

My home well system pump has a "constant" power output and does not
increase power to the home water system and most urban homes have limits on
the max pressure, my well system is set at a max of 50 psi, therefore
pressure will decrease as the hose gets longer or every toilet get flushed
at the same time, because my home well pump does not have the power to
maintain that pressure for really long runs.

One can prove this by getting a hose of different lengths at find out for
yourself.


You changed the topic, you're talking about pump ratings and wells,
not hose length. With your well pump set up volume won't change with
a longer hose so long as you're not running it up hill, that your well
maintains adequate water volume, and your well pump maintains
pressure. But the topic is not about wells and pumps. If you
remember my original reply I asked about topograpghy for exactly what
you're bringing up. The height water is lifted affects volume, but not
the length of run on level ground. You'd probably understand if
you've ever siphoned water any appreciable distance, siphoning
eliminates frailities of a pump. And you do realize that temperatures
affects volume too, higher temperatures cause hose diameter to expand
creating a greater cross sectional area, in effect a larger diameter
tube... there are other factors that alter volume too but not piping
length alone. About two years ago I did a lot of reasearch on this
exact topic for irrigating a property in Idaho by pumping water from a
pond... there were several problems due to the hilly terrain. In the
end several pumps proved inadequate... it was less costly and entailed
far less labor by hauling water with a cart. And if the OP wants to
irrigate 6 acres I'd definitely recommend a much larger well. I have
two wells on my property, the one for my house was tested and delivers
12 gallons a minute, the one that used to be used for irrigating crops
delivers 30 gallons a minute. I use the larger well only
occasionally, to water my vegetable garden and to fill the buckets I
sometimes haul about... I also use it to wash my tractors and whatever
else requires large volumes of water.


True only if the tail is lower than the head. For gravity fed drip
irrigation what you say is true. However, most cases the person will be
standing at the end of the line two or three feet higher to water the
plants. I have run the water hoses for long distances and it can be done.
However I did state that I tend to use a soaker hose that I do not raise
the tail of the hose. The sprayer does not work very good because it does
lack pressure.


Raising a few feet, say 12' to an upstairs toilet, there'll be no
noticable difference but when running pipe outdoors, depending on
terrain, lift can easily change 50', 100' and more... that can make a
big difference on what kind of pump is needed... pumps are rated by
lift... even those old fahioned hand pumps are typically rated at like
20' lift. This one will raise water 23' max:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...duct_5846_5846

With electric and gas/diesel engine pumps price raises drastically as
water lift raises... my friend in Idaho learned this the hard way, he
laid over a mile of piping all over his property before ever checking
out pumps... naturally his pond was at the lowest point. As I said,
in the end he abandoned his pumping idea and followed my
recommendation to haul water. He alkready had a small tractor and
cart. At first he didn't take my recomendation to use buckets so he
bought a 250 gallon poly tank, the largest he could fit in his cart.
He didn't consider the weight of water and nearly ruined his cart the
first time he started to fill that tank... a gallon of water is about
8 pounds, you do the math.

The Original Poster wanted Taps at the end for watering plants. But like
many Posters the OP rarely responds back for feedback.


Will likely never hear from that poster again... lots of new large
property owners think exactly the same thing, they are going to pipe
their irrigation water... just won't work unless one spends a LOT of
bucks. Originally I thought I would pipe water but fortunately all I
did was buy ten 100' lengths of 5/8" Swan garden hose... first time I
charged just three lenghts and tried to drag it about I knew I ****ed
up, could give ya a hernia. But that hose was on sale at Lowe's for
$10 each and ten years later I'm still using that hose, some is on my
hose reels, so no loss. I even have two lengths still unused. Each
length came with one of those multi-spray nozzles, cheapo plastic, all
are shit canned... ever you buy a nozzle be sure it's metal.
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:24 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:.

Will likely never hear from that poster again... lots of new large
property owners think exactly the same thing, they are going to pipe
their irrigation water... just won't work unless one spends a LOT of
bucks. Originally I thought I would pipe water but fortunately all I
did was buy ten 100' lengths of 5/8" Swan garden hose... first time I
charged just three lenghts and tried to drag it about I knew I ****ed
up, could give ya a hernia. But that hose was on sale at Lowe's for
$10 each and ten years later I'm still using that hose, some is on my
hose reels, so no loss. I even have two lengths still unused. Each
length came with one of those multi-spray nozzles, cheapo plastic, all
are shit canned... ever you buy a nozzle be sure it's metal.


I also started off with buried lines, i removed the worthless expensive
lines. I now use light weight hoses with quick connect links and use a
garden wagon to move the segments around. I do not use the hose that often
perhaps one a week on average. I had those heavy duty hoses at first, I
have them still, but they can cause a hernia. I like the light weight ones.
It would take more time for me fill barrels and get the tractor out that
for me to use hoses.

--
Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan)
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Old 02-07-2011, 03:32 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

"Nad R" wrote in message
...
Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:.

Will likely never hear from that poster again... lots of new large
property owners think exactly the same thing, they are going to pipe
their irrigation water... just won't work unless one spends a LOT of
bucks. Originally I thought I would pipe water but fortunately all I
did was buy ten 100' lengths of 5/8" Swan garden hose... first time I
charged just three lenghts and tried to drag it about I knew I ****ed
up, could give ya a hernia. But that hose was on sale at Lowe's for
$10 each and ten years later I'm still using that hose, some is on my
hose reels, so no loss. I even have two lengths still unused. Each
length came with one of those multi-spray nozzles, cheapo plastic, all
are shit canned... ever you buy a nozzle be sure it's metal.


I also started off with buried lines, i removed the worthless expensive
lines. I now use light weight hoses with quick connect links and use a
garden wagon to move the segments around. I do not use the hose that often
perhaps one a week on average. I had those heavy duty hoses at first, I
have them still, but they can cause a hernia. I like the light weight
ones.
It would take more time for me fill barrels and get the tractor out that
for me to use hoses.


You've failed the boy and his toy test. Boys love to play with tractors. I
use hoses with click clack connectors onto the ends of my polypipe, but then
I'm not a boy.


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Old 02-07-2011, 04:46 AM posted to rec.gardens
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jan 2011
Posts: 410
Default Rural Irrigation/Remote Faucets Methods ??

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote:
"Nad R" wrote in message
...
Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:.

Will likely never hear from that poster again... lots of new large
property owners think exactly the same thing, they are going to pipe
their irrigation water... just won't work unless one spends a LOT of
bucks. Originally I thought I would pipe water but fortunately all I
did was buy ten 100' lengths of 5/8" Swan garden hose... first time I
charged just three lenghts and tried to drag it about I knew I ****ed
up, could give ya a hernia. But that hose was on sale at Lowe's for
$10 each and ten years later I'm still using that hose, some is on my
hose reels, so no loss. I even have two lengths still unused. Each
length came with one of those multi-spray nozzles, cheapo plastic, all
are shit canned... ever you buy a nozzle be sure it's metal.


I also started off with buried lines, i removed the worthless expensive
lines. I now use light weight hoses with quick connect links and use a
garden wagon to move the segments around. I do not use the hose that often
perhaps one a week on average. I had those heavy duty hoses at first, I
have them still, but they can cause a hernia. I like the light weight
ones.
It would take more time for me fill barrels and get the tractor out that
for me to use hoses.


You've failed the boy and his toy test. Boys love to play with tractors. I
use hoses with click clack connectors onto the ends of my polypipe, but then
I'm not a boy.


Ouch!

--
Enjoy Life... Nad R (Garden in zone 5a Michigan)
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