A friend gave me this link to a Santa Cruz, California farm that gives
very detailed advice on growing tomatoes.
Though it's geared to California coastal, the advice can be
extrapolated to other climates and mini-climates.

Fish head at bottom of planting hole? Aspirin nearby? Some
interesting angles, coupled with seasoned conventional advice on soil
modification, watering, sun requirements, etc.

http://www.growbetterveggies.com/gro...how-to-gr.html

HB

On 2/27/2012 7:13 AM, Higgs Boson wrote:
A friend gave me this link to a Santa Cruz, California farm that gives
very detailed advice on growing tomatoes.
Though it's geared to California coastal, the advice can be
extrapolated to other climates and mini-climates.

Fish head at bottom of planting hole? Aspirin nearby? Some
interesting angles, coupled with seasoned conventional advice on soil
modification, watering, sun requirements, etc.

http://www.growbetterveggies.com/gro...how-to-gr.html

HB

You're not competent to grow anything

In article ,
Frank wrote:

On 2/27/2012 7:13 AM, Higgs Boson wrote:
A friend gave me this link to a Santa Cruz, California farm that gives
very detailed advice on growing tomatoes.
Though it's geared to California coastal, the advice can be
extrapolated to other climates and mini-climates.

Fish head at bottom of planting hole? Aspirin nearby? Some
interesting angles, coupled with seasoned conventional advice on soil
modification, watering, sun requirements, etc.

http://www.growbetterveggies.com/gro...s-on-how-to-gr
.html

HB

You're not competent to grow anything

Just feeling mean today, Frank?

--
You put Lloyd Blankfein in pound-me-in-the-ass prison for one six-month term, and all this bullshit would stop, all over Wall Street. That's all it would take. Just once.

Vote 3rd Party

Interesting article on growing tomatoes. But have your ever tasted hydroponic tomatoes which taste as good as tomatoes grown in rich soil outdoors? Many tomatoes are grown hydroponically as they grow bigger, healthier and hastier.

Check out the following link to grow hydroponic tomatoes all year around.

Vegetable Gardening | Advanced Nutrients Articles

On Feb 27, 6:23*pm, Wild Billy wrote:
In article ,









*Frank wrote:
On 2/27/2012 7:13 AM, Higgs Boson wrote:
A friend gave me this link to a Santa Cruz, California farm that gives
very detailed advice on growing tomatoes.
Though it's geared to California coastal, the advice can be
extrapolated to other climates and mini-climates.

Fish head at bottom of planting hole? *Aspirin nearby? *Some
interesting angles, coupled with seasoned conventional advice on soil
modification, watering, sun requirements, etc.

http://www.growbetterveggies.com/gro...ructions-on-ho....
.html

HB

You're not competent to grow anything

Just feeling mean today, Frank?

--
You put Lloyd Blankfein in pound-me-in-the-ass prison for one six-month term, and all this bullshit would stop, all over Wall Street. That's all it would take. Just once.

Vote 3rd Party

But why limit it to just one of the Wall Street goniffs?

HB

"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
allen73 wrote:

Higgs Boson;952125 Wrote:
A friend gave me this link to a Santa Cruz, California farm that gives
very detailed advice on growing tomatoes.
Though it's geared to California coastal, the advice can be
extrapolated to other climates and mini-climates.

Fish head at bottom of planting hole? Aspirin nearby? Some
interesting angles, coupled with seasoned conventional advice on soil
modification, watering, sun requirements, etc.

'Love Apple Farms: Instructions on How to Grow Better Tomatoes'
(http://tinyurl.com/42rayl4)

HB

Interesting article on growing tomatoes. But have your ever tasted
hydroponic tomatoes which taste as good as tomatoes grown in rich soil
outdoors? Many tomatoes are grown hydroponically as they grow bigger,
healthier and hastier.

Check out the following link to grow hydroponic tomatoes all year
around.

'Vegetable Gardening | Advanced Nutrients Articles'
(http://tinyurl.com/839pq5m)

What you say may be true, but when the website makes a gaffe like

"4. Pollination * If tomatoes are to bear fruit, they need to be
pollinated. Unless growers are going to engage in artificial
pollination, the plants must be accessible to pollinators, which can
include insects and wind. Obviously, it is difficult to provide
pollinator access to plants grown indoors or in greenhouses."

It calls into question the rest of the sites assertions, and their
motives.

Most tomatoes don't need pollinators.

p. 155-156
http://www.amazon.com/Seed-Growing-T...deners/dp/1882
424581/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1238951517&sr=1-1
POLLINATION, CROSSING AND ISOLATION

Charlie Rick, whose tomato breeding accomplishments are legendary,
describes the evolution of the tomato in Potential Genetic Resources in
Tomato Species (1952). "The ancestral tomato species could not reproduce
by self-pollination.... . It had a long style, extending far beyond the
anther tube, to facilitate cross-pollination by insects. . . . .As this
ancestral species evolved into the wild predecessor of the cultivated
tomato it developed the ability to self-pollinate.
--

Billy

The information and cites you posted are most informative. And I agree that
the information you contest in the one cite.

Tomatos are ........ funny. What works for you might not work even across
town, as to differences in soils, etc.

Surely, the information I learned in ten years of growing massive amounts of
good tomatos in Louisiana does not transfer to Utah, as I have had little
luck here.

But across the board, here are some things that I have learned from my
experiences:

Check your tomatos every day. Cutworms and infestations of bugs happen at
an exponential rate, and the sooner they are discovered, the better.

Daily checking also points out dryness, and the need of watering.

Pinch those little suckers if you want to concentrate growth on the
desirable limbs. If you are growing bush style, it won't matter a lot, but
if you like to keep two or three primary vines, it will make a big
difference as to maturation rates and if you will be able to harvest before
frost.

Watering of all types is good, and rotation or combination of deep root
watering, watering at the base, or overhead misting/droplets is good.

Non-chemical pesticides (deterrents, actually) made of tobacco, mouthwash,
dish soap can be super in controlling aphids and lots of other buggers, and
don't go into the meat. Poisons work good, too, just read package
instructions and be aware that you might ingest some if you improperly use
them.

Pollination is obviously a point of discussion. Still, a small artist's
paint brush can achieve pollination, and even let you experiment with
crossing strains, and what the heck, is fun.

Blossom drop may occur when night time temps are high. Greenhousing can
prevent this, or at least reduce it. The crop will probably have a second
set after the hot weather, and if there are not too many growing points, a
second harvest in fall may be possible before first frost.

Lastly, and mainly, active monitoring of your growing space will help you
harvest more/sooner/later/whatever.

KNOW YOUR ZONE!

HTH

Steve Zone 5A

The plant disease caused by tobacco mosaic virus is found worldwide. The
virus is known to infect more than 150 types of herbaceous,
dicotyledonous plants including many vegetables, flowers, and weeds.
Infection by tobacco mosaic virus causes serious losses on several crops
including tomatoes, peppers, and many ornamentals.

Keep tobacco products away from tomatoes, and if you smoke, wash your
hands before gardening.

I am purely speaking from experience, and not from the scientific illuminati
bent. One must realize that on Usenet that information is free, and as
such, worth 100X what is paid for it.

If someone is afraid of tobacco virus, then by all means, go to the
carcinogen group.

Steve

Steve B wrote:
The plant disease caused by tobacco mosaic virus is found worldwide.
The virus is known to infect more than 150 types of herbaceous,
dicotyledonous plants including many vegetables, flowers, and weeds.
Infection by tobacco mosaic virus causes serious losses on several
crops including tomatoes, peppers, and many ornamentals.

Keep tobacco products away from tomatoes, and if you smoke, wash your
hands before gardening.

I am purely speaking from experience, and not from the scientific
illuminati bent. One must realize that on Usenet that information is
free, and as such, worth 100X what is paid for it.

If someone is afraid of tobacco virus, then by all means, go to the
carcinogen group.

Steve

TMV doesn't infect people nor is it a carcinogen. The carcinogenic effect
of some uses of tabacco have nothing to do with TMV.

D

"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Steve B" wrote:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg1168.html
The plant disease caused by tobacco mosaic virus is found worldwide.
The
virus is known to infect more than 150 types of herbaceous,
dicotyledonous plants including many vegetables, flowers, and weeds.
Infection by tobacco mosaic virus causes serious losses on several
crops
including tomatoes, peppers, and many ornamentals.
--

Keep tobacco products away from tomatoes, and if you smoke, wash your
hands before gardening.

I am purely speaking from experience, and not from the scientific
illuminati
bent. One must realize that on Usenet that information is free, and as
such, worth 100X what is paid for it.

If someone is afraid of tobacco virus, then by all means, go to the
carcinogen group.

Steve

Sorry, I didn't mean to attack anyone's right to be ignorant, and
express dumb ideas.

Did I mention the the first paragraph above came from the University of
Minnesota?

My god, I see what you mean about scientific illuminati. North Dakota
State University says," #10. Do not use tobacco products while handling
tomato plants. These products may carry viruses, especially tobacco
mosaic virus.
http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/hortcrop/pp659w.htm


Moreover, North Carolina State University says,"The most important virus
diseases on tomatoes in North Carolina is tobacco mosaic virus (TMV)"
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/oldnotes/vg15.htm

Even Colorado State University say,"Infection by the tobacco mosaic
virus causes crinkling and light to dark mottling of foliage. When cut
open, the fruit shows browning inside. This disease is easily spread by
direct contact with tobacco products or on the hands, clothing and tools
of those who have handled tobacco products. Be sure to wash your hands
carefully before working in the garden if you are a smoker. Choose
plants that are labeled with a 'T' after the variety. This indicates a
higher resistance to the tobacco mosaic virus. Infected plants and
debris must be removed and destroyed to prevent spread of the disease to
healthy plants."
http://coopext.colostate.edu/4dmg/Pests/Diseases/tomaprob.htm

You just know that there has to be something wrong when all these fact
based elitists say the same thing.

Steve, do you know any "Tea Bagger" gardeners that can tell us what's
reeeeally going on, without using facts as a crutch?

Power to the "peep-hole".
--

Billy

My advice is free, and worth it. I only speak from my experience with
actual hands on gardening, rather then any University illuminati who may
have written without ever having sullied their pristine palms with actual
garden soil, yet claiming intellectual superiority by having read something
about the subject, probably from their friend's hairdresser's
brother-in-law's girlfriend's grandfather's current squeeze.

You seemed to ask for actual experience, yet when it was given, want to stay
with only federal study backed information.

Facts can always be found to support any conclusion. Conclusions SHOULD
only be formed after studying facts, but in the modern society, body
politic, and ................

Whatever.

Steve

On 2/27/2012 9:23 PM, Wild Billy wrote:
In ,
wrote:

On 2/27/2012 7:13 AM, Higgs Boson wrote:
A friend gave me this link to a Santa Cruz, California farm that gives
very detailed advice on growing tomatoes.
Though it's geared to California coastal, the advice can be
extrapolated to other climates and mini-climates.

Fish head at bottom of planting hole? Aspirin nearby? Some
interesting angles, coupled with seasoned conventional advice on soil
modification, watering, sun requirements, etc.

http://www.growbetterveggies.com/gro...s-on-how-to-gr
.html

HB

You're not competent to grow anything

Just feeling mean today, Frank?


Have you ever seen any pictures of his plants that he's posted?
Then, you'd know what I mean.

- and I'm mean all the time - one of the benefits of getting older

On Feb 28, 5:55*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
"Billy" wrote in message

....









In article ,
"Steve B" wrote:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg1168.html
The plant disease caused by tobacco mosaic virus is found worldwide.
The
virus is known to infect more than 150 types of herbaceous,
dicotyledonous plants including many vegetables, flowers, and weeds.
Infection by tobacco mosaic virus causes serious losses on several
crops
including tomatoes, peppers, and many ornamentals.
--

Keep tobacco products away from tomatoes, and if you smoke, wash your
hands before gardening.

I am purely speaking from experience, and not from the scientific
illuminati
bent. *One must realize that on Usenet that information is free, and as
such, worth 100X what is paid for it.

If someone is afraid of tobacco virus, then by all means, go to the
carcinogen group.

Steve

Sorry, I didn't mean to attack anyone's right to be ignorant, and
express dumb ideas.

Did I mention the the first paragraph above came from the University of
Minnesota?

My god, I see what you mean about scientific illuminati. North Dakota
State University says," #10. Do not use tobacco products while handling
tomato plants. These products may carry viruses, especially tobacco
mosaic virus.
http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/hortcrop/pp659w.htm

Moreover, North Carolina State University says,"The most important virus
diseases on tomatoes in North Carolina is tobacco mosaic virus (TMV)"
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/oldnotes/vg15.htm

Even Colorado State University say,"Infection by the tobacco mosaic
virus causes crinkling and light to dark mottling of foliage. When cut
open, the fruit shows browning inside. This disease is easily spread by
direct contact with tobacco products or on the hands, clothing and tools
of those who have handled tobacco products. Be sure to wash your hands
carefully before working in the garden if you are a smoker. Choose
plants that are labeled with a 'T' after the variety. This indicates a
higher resistance to the tobacco mosaic virus. *Infected plants and
debris must be removed and destroyed to prevent spread of the disease to
healthy plants."
http://coopext.colostate.edu/4dmg/Pests/Diseases/tomaprob.htm

You just know that there has to be something wrong when all these fact
based elitists say the same thing.

Steve, do you know any "Tea Bagger" gardeners that can tell us what's
reeeeally going on, without using facts as a crutch?

Power to the "peep-hole".
--

Billy

My advice is free, and worth it. *I only speak from my experience with
actual hands on gardening, rather then any University illuminati who may
have written without ever having sullied their pristine palms with actual
garden soil, yet claiming intellectual superiority by having read something
about the subject, probably from their friend's hairdresser's
brother-in-law's girlfriend's grandfather's current squeeze.

You seemed to ask for actual experience, yet when it was given, want to stay
with only federal study backed information.

Facts can always be found to support any conclusion. *Conclusions SHOULD
only be formed after studying facts, but in the modern society, body
politic, and ................

Whatever.

Steve

The scientific illuminati are not the bad guys here Steve. Despite all
billyboys's assumptions and his usual ad homieum attacks, there is
nothing in his duplicitous listing of .edu credentials that addresses
your Tea brew. Detergent and mouthwash, (phosphate and alcohol) may
very well disrupt the virus's protein coating and attack the virus ,
Urea and Iron are also known to break the coating down. But that is a
question for a real expert, not some fringe internet mouthpiece
posting things out of context.