There was an interesting story on BBC1's Countryfile today, with John
Craven looking at alternative methods of controlling Japanese Knotweed in Cornwall.
Methods such as 'bio control' eg. introducing diseases to attack Japanese Knotweed.

The programme showed footage of someone cutting knotweed and pouring a herbicide
down the stems. What type of herbicide would be suitable for Japanese Knotweed ?

"al" wrote in message
There was an interesting story on BBC1's Countryfile today, with John
Craven looking at alternative methods of controlling Japanese Knotweed in
Cornwall.
Methods such as 'bio control' eg. introducing diseases to attack Japanese
Knotweed.

The programme showed footage of someone cutting knotweed and pouring a
herbicide
down the stems. What type of herbicide would be suitable for Japanese
Knotweed ?


I understand the National Trust in Cornwall are using the "cut stem and pour
SBK Brushkiller (or similar) down each one" method. It travels down to the
roots, possibly 3 metres down, and kills them without causing too much
collateral damage. For a normal person that is probably the only method
there is to kill off this plant, some of the professional weed control
companies have sprays that seem to work too, although I don't know if it's
so permanent.


--
Bob

www.pooleygreengrowers.org.uk/ about an Allotment site in
Runnymede fighting for it's existence.

On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 23:29:06 +0100, "Bob Hobden"
wrote:
"al" wrote in message
There was an interesting story on BBC1's Countryfile today, with John
Craven looking at alternative methods of controlling Japanese Knotweed in
Cornwall. Methods such as 'bio control' eg. introducing diseases to attack Japanese
Knotweed.
The programme showed footage of someone cutting knotweed and pouring a
herbicide down the stems. What type of herbicide would be suitable for Japanese
Knotweed ?
I understand the National Trust in Cornwall are using the "cut stem and pour
SBK Brushkiller (or similar) down each one" method. It travels down to the
roots, possibly 3 metres down, and kills them without causing too much
collateral damage. For a normal person that is probably the only method
there is to kill off this plant, some of the professional weed control
companies have sprays that seem to work too, although I don't know if it's
so permanent.
I just started my war with a patch of Knotweed this year (New Jersey,
USA). I was trying to remove about 2/3rds of the patch this year, but
its obvious I'm going to need to be much more aggressive. I've just
been trying to chop it down as it pops up, but it just sprouts all
over the place. It even seems to be trying to move further along,
maybe to avoid my chopping. If I neglect it for a week its a foot
tall!

I'm now starting to yank out the runners, with some light use of
roundup after slicing the tops. I hate the idea of having to pull it
all out and bag it -- its a pretty large patch.

Its a shame. The left over patch is now in full bloom, and is just
crawling with bees. All sorts of bees and flying insects; some that
I've never seen elsewhere. Still, its going to have to go. I can see
for myself that it can't be controlled.

Swyck

Its a shame. The left over patch is now in full bloom, and is just
crawling with bees. All sorts of bees and flying insects; some that
I've never seen elsewhere. Still, its going to have to go. I can see
for myself that it can't be controlled.

Swyck

Spray your herbicides late in the evening when bee foraging is at a
minimum that way you kill far fewer bees as they mostly have to be
directly hit with the herbicide and it's surfactants for it to kill
them.
This late in the season there is no time for a hive to recover from
poisoning.
With Japanese Knotweed expect to have to reapply often.
If you spray actively foraging bees and kill them you are misapplying.