I am in southern california. I asked my gardner to transplant 6 yrs 15
feet high purple leaf pulm tree. He did it but I am not sure he knew
what he was doing.
I argued that the tree needs deep pruning before or after
transplanting and he said that it should not be touched.
Should I prune it? Now? (Still in full dorment)
Is there anything I can do to improve the chances of the transplant?
Thanks

"Moshe" wrote in message
om...
I am in southern california. I asked my gardner to transplant 6 yrs 15
feet high purple leaf pulm tree. He did it but I am not sure he knew
what he was doing.
I argued that the tree needs deep pruning before or after
transplanting and he said that it should not be touched.
Should I prune it? Now? (Still in full dorment)
Is there anything I can do to improve the chances of the transplant?
Thanks

There are several things that can be done to help a transplanted tree
survive.
Before...
Root prune at least once and as many as 3 times if you can. Root pruning
involves digging a trench around the tree to at least a depth of 24" and as
much as 60" out to 1/3 the distance from the trunk to the drip line. This
trench is then back filled with good loose soil. This process will encourage
new root growth. A root pruning takes 30 to 60 days to have any effect. So
if you root prune 3 times you are talking a minimum of 90 days to a maximum
of 180 days prior to moving the tree.
Pull and strip as much of the leaves as possible to give the roots a chance
to work. And hard prune the small and medium branches.
After...
Setup an overhead mist system on the tree. This is as simple as running
several lengths of 1/2" irrigation pipe up into the crown of the tree and
putting a 360 degree mist head at the top. Run this mist head 30 minutes in
the early morning and 30 minutes in the late afternoon for 30 days. (We call
this the 30-30-30 system.)
Put a bubbler at the base of the tree to send water to the roots. Same
30-30-30 as above.
No fertilizer for 30 days. You don't want to burn the new roots.
Sacrifice a white chicken. Not sure why this works or where to find the
chicken, but when all else fails....

Thanks for your quick reply. My problem is the transfer is done and at
this point the tree is still dorment, no leavs no flowers. So my
question, should I prune the tree now? I heard that becuase of the
much smaller root base for the tree because of the transfer, we should
make the branches area smaller too so that they can be supported?

Moshe
"Ricky" wrote in message ...
"Moshe" wrote in message
om...
I am in southern california. I asked my gardner to transplant 6 yrs 15
feet high purple leaf pulm tree. He did it but I am not sure he knew
what he was doing.
I argued that the tree needs deep pruning before or after
transplanting and he said that it should not be touched.
Should I prune it? Now? (Still in full dorment)
Is there anything I can do to improve the chances of the transplant?
Thanks

There are several things that can be done to help a transplanted tree
survive.
Before...
Root prune at least once and as many as 3 times if you can. Root pruning
involves digging a trench around the tree to at least a depth of 24" and as
much as 60" out to 1/3 the distance from the trunk to the drip line. This
trench is then back filled with good loose soil. This process will encourage
new root growth. A root pruning takes 30 to 60 days to have any effect. So
if you root prune 3 times you are talking a minimum of 90 days to a maximum
of 180 days prior to moving the tree.
Pull and strip as much of the leaves as possible to give the roots a chance
to work. And hard prune the small and medium branches.
After...
Setup an overhead mist system on the tree. This is as simple as running
several lengths of 1/2" irrigation pipe up into the crown of the tree and
putting a 360 degree mist head at the top. Run this mist head 30 minutes in
the early morning and 30 minutes in the late afternoon for 30 days. (We call
this the 30-30-30 system.)
Put a bubbler at the base of the tree to send water to the roots. Same
30-30-30 as above.
No fertilizer for 30 days. You don't want to burn the new roots.
Sacrifice a white chicken. Not sure why this works or where to find the
chicken, but when all else fails....

"Moshe" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for your quick reply. My problem is the transfer is done and at
this point the tree is still dorment, no leavs no flowers. So my
question, should I prune the tree now? I heard that becuase of the
much smaller root base for the tree because of the transfer, we should
make the branches area smaller too so that they can be supported?

OK. Prune it now and pull off all the leaves as well. This will put all the
energy into making new roots. Good luck!

"Ricky" wrote in message
...
"Moshe" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for your quick reply. My problem is the transfer is
done and at
this point the tree is still dorment, no leavs no flowers. So
my
question, should I prune the tree now? I heard that becuase
of the
much smaller root base for the tree because of the transfer,
we should
make the branches area smaller too so that they can be
supported?

OK. Prune it now and pull off all the leaves as well. This will
put all the
energy into making new roots. Good luck!


I will respectfully disagree. The old school said to cut off a
proportionate amount of top as you cut off the bottom. Our
county extension forester says it is preferred these days to not
cut the top back. The leaves, in fact, provide the nutrients
that the tree needs to grow the strong root system. By cutting
the top, you are forcing the tree to use stored energy to create
roots -- which weakens the tree. It is very important, though,
that the tree be carefully staked so that even a light wind won't
topple it.

The only pruning that needs to be done is remedial shaping --
crossed branches, etc.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

"Ricky" wrote in message
...
"Moshe" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for your quick reply. My problem is the transfer is
done and at
this point the tree is still dorment, no leavs no flowers. So
my
question, should I prune the tree now? I heard that becuase
of the
much smaller root base for the tree because of the transfer,
we should
make the branches area smaller too so that they can be
supported?

OK. Prune it now and pull off all the leaves as well. This will
put all the
energy into making new roots. Good luck!


I will respectfully disagree. The old school said to cut off a
proportionate amount of top as you cut off the bottom. Our
county extension forester says it is preferred these days to not
cut the top back. The leaves, in fact, provide the nutrients
that the tree needs to grow the strong root system. By cutting
the top, you are forcing the tree to use stored energy to create
roots -- which weakens the tree. It is very important, though,
that the tree be carefully staked so that even a light wind won't
topple it.

The only pruning that needs to be done is remedial shaping --
crossed branches, etc.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

"Jim Lewis" wrote in message
...

"Ricky" wrote
OK. Prune it now and pull off all the leaves as well. This will
put all the energy into making new roots. Good luck!

I will respectfully disagree. The old school said to cut off a
proportionate amount of top as you cut off the bottom. Our
county extension forester says it is preferred these days to not
cut the top back. The leaves, in fact, provide the nutrients
that the tree needs to grow the strong root system. By cutting
the top, you are forcing the tree to use stored energy to create
roots -- which weakens the tree. It is very important, though,
that the tree be carefully staked so that even a light wind won't
topple it.

Jim,
I've read both arguments on the topic of pruning transplants - prune 'em
hard and prune 'em light. I can only go from experience. Both arguments have
scientific validity but then so does the silly "Big Bang Theory". I've
transplanted trees as tall as 25' and have had the best results with a hard
top pruning, especially with a small root ball.

"Jim Lewis" wrote in message
...

"Ricky" wrote
OK. Prune it now and pull off all the leaves as well. This will
put all the energy into making new roots. Good luck!

I will respectfully disagree. The old school said to cut off a
proportionate amount of top as you cut off the bottom. Our
county extension forester says it is preferred these days to not
cut the top back. The leaves, in fact, provide the nutrients
that the tree needs to grow the strong root system. By cutting
the top, you are forcing the tree to use stored energy to create
roots -- which weakens the tree. It is very important, though,
that the tree be carefully staked so that even a light wind won't
topple it.

Jim,
I've read both arguments on the topic of pruning transplants - prune 'em
hard and prune 'em light. I can only go from experience. Both arguments have
scientific validity but then so does the silly "Big Bang Theory". I've
transplanted trees as tall as 25' and have had the best results with a hard
top pruning, especially with a small root ball.

"Jim Lewis" wrote in message
...

"Ricky" wrote
OK. Prune it now and pull off all the leaves as well. This will
put all the energy into making new roots. Good luck!

I will respectfully disagree. The old school said to cut off a
proportionate amount of top as you cut off the bottom. Our
county extension forester says it is preferred these days to not
cut the top back. The leaves, in fact, provide the nutrients
that the tree needs to grow the strong root system. By cutting
the top, you are forcing the tree to use stored energy to create
roots -- which weakens the tree. It is very important, though,
that the tree be carefully staked so that even a light wind won't
topple it.

Jim,
I've read both arguments on the topic of pruning transplants - prune 'em
hard and prune 'em light. I can only go from experience. Both arguments have
scientific validity but then so does the silly "Big Bang Theory". I've
transplanted trees as tall as 25' and have had the best results with a hard
top pruning, especially with a small root ball.

"Jim Lewis" wrote in message ...
"Ricky" wrote in message
...
"Moshe" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for your quick reply. My problem is the transfer is
done and at
this point the tree is still dorment, no leavs no flowers. So
my
question, should I prune the tree now? I heard that becuase
of the
much smaller root base for the tree because of the transfer,
we should
make the branches area smaller too so that they can be
supported?

OK. Prune it now and pull off all the leaves as well. This will
put all the
energy into making new roots. Good luck!




I will respectfully disagree. The old school said to cut off a
proportionate amount of top as you cut off the bottom. Our
county extension forester says it is preferred these days to not
cut the top back. The leaves, in fact, provide the nutrients
that the tree needs to grow the strong root system. By cutting
the top, you are forcing the tree to use stored energy to create
roots -- which weakens the tree. It is very important, though,
that the tree be carefully staked so that even a light wind won't
topple it.

The only pruning that needs to be done is remedial shaping --
crossed branches, etc.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson


I think any of the advice given will help your plant. Tammy

"Jim Lewis" wrote in message ...
"Ricky" wrote in message
...
"Moshe" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for your quick reply. My problem is the transfer is
done and at
this point the tree is still dorment, no leavs no flowers. So
my
question, should I prune the tree now? I heard that becuase
of the
much smaller root base for the tree because of the transfer,
we should
make the branches area smaller too so that they can be
supported?

OK. Prune it now and pull off all the leaves as well. This will
put all the
energy into making new roots. Good luck!




I will respectfully disagree. The old school said to cut off a
proportionate amount of top as you cut off the bottom. Our
county extension forester says it is preferred these days to not
cut the top back. The leaves, in fact, provide the nutrients
that the tree needs to grow the strong root system. By cutting
the top, you are forcing the tree to use stored energy to create
roots -- which weakens the tree. It is very important, though,
that the tree be carefully staked so that even a light wind won't
topple it.

The only pruning that needs to be done is remedial shaping --
crossed branches, etc.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson


I think any of the advice given will help your plant. Tammy

"Jim Lewis" wrote in message ...
"Ricky" wrote in message
...
"Moshe" wrote in message
om...
Thanks for your quick reply. My problem is the transfer is
done and at
this point the tree is still dorment, no leavs no flowers. So
my
question, should I prune the tree now? I heard that becuase
of the
much smaller root base for the tree because of the transfer,
we should
make the branches area smaller too so that they can be
supported?

OK. Prune it now and pull off all the leaves as well. This will
put all the
energy into making new roots. Good luck!




I will respectfully disagree. The old school said to cut off a
proportionate amount of top as you cut off the bottom. Our
county extension forester says it is preferred these days to not
cut the top back. The leaves, in fact, provide the nutrients
that the tree needs to grow the strong root system. By cutting
the top, you are forcing the tree to use stored energy to create
roots -- which weakens the tree. It is very important, though,
that the tree be carefully staked so that even a light wind won't
topple it.

The only pruning that needs to be done is remedial shaping --
crossed branches, etc.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson


I think any of the advice given will help your plant. Tammy