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Old 19-06-2004, 12:03 AM
Robert11
 
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Default Woolly Adelgid Problem Quest. ? (live outside of Boston)

Hello:

Regarding the woolly adelgid problem on Hemlock trees:

Live outside of Boston.

Very confused over when the "best" time to spray is.

Spoke to a few arborists that do this, but i have the feeling they have a
stock answer that
the best time seems to be whenever one calls them.

Might someone please summarize for me when I should have spraying done, and
what treatment (oil, soap, type, etc. ), when in the year ?

Is the above answer different if one sees no problem, but wants to prevent
one, vs
the belief that there is already a problem.

Much thanks,
Bob

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Old 19-06-2004, 02:02 AM
Mike LaMana
 
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Default Woolly Adelgid Problem Quest. ? (live outside of Boston)

The insect has 2 or three generations per year, and has the semi-odd habit
of going into a summer estivation (sleep-mode). Thus it seems to be better
to spray (if using a high-quality horticultural oil) at least twice per
annum, maybe thrice.

Late summer / early Fall and early Spring seem to be the most effective IMO.
It is possible to have great effect with oil so I do not recommend going to
more aggressive chemicals such as imidacloprid (Merit). Tree companies push
the Merit because they can charge more for it.

This is an easy bug to control as long as it is possible to really drench
the tree with sprays - trees too tall (over 50') or too close to
obstructions need other treatments.

Good question!

--
Mike LaMana, MS
Heartwood Consulting Services, LLC
Toms River, NJ
www.HeartwoodConsulting.net




"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello:

Regarding the woolly adelgid problem on Hemlock trees:

Live outside of Boston.

Very confused over when the "best" time to spray is.

Spoke to a few arborists that do this, but i have the feeling they have a
stock answer that
the best time seems to be whenever one calls them.

Might someone please summarize for me when I should have spraying done,

and
what treatment (oil, soap, type, etc. ), when in the year ?

Is the above answer different if one sees no problem, but wants to prevent
one, vs
the belief that there is already a problem.

Much thanks,
Bob



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Old 19-06-2004, 01:03 PM
David J Bockman
 
Posts: n/a
Default Woolly Adelgid Problem Quest. ? (live outside of Boston)

Xref: kermit rec.gardens:283004

Mike,

Your experiences with Sunspray Horticultural Oil, if any?

Dave

"Mike LaMana" fake@MikeatHeartwoodConsultingdotnet wrote in message
...
The insect has 2 or three generations per year, and has the semi-odd habit
of going into a summer estivation (sleep-mode). Thus it seems to be better
to spray (if using a high-quality horticultural oil) at least twice per
annum, maybe thrice.

Late summer / early Fall and early Spring seem to be the most effective

IMO.
It is possible to have great effect with oil so I do not recommend going

to
more aggressive chemicals such as imidacloprid (Merit). Tree companies

push
the Merit because they can charge more for it.

This is an easy bug to control as long as it is possible to really drench
the tree with sprays - trees too tall (over 50') or too close to
obstructions need other treatments.

Good question!

--
Mike LaMana, MS
Heartwood Consulting Services, LLC
Toms River, NJ
www.HeartwoodConsulting.net




"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello:

Regarding the woolly adelgid problem on Hemlock trees:

Live outside of Boston.

Very confused over when the "best" time to spray is.

Spoke to a few arborists that do this, but i have the feeling they have

a
stock answer that
the best time seems to be whenever one calls them.

Might someone please summarize for me when I should have spraying done,

and
what treatment (oil, soap, type, etc. ), when in the year ?

Is the above answer different if one sees no problem, but wants to

prevent
one, vs
the belief that there is already a problem.

Much thanks,
Bob





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Old 19-06-2004, 10:02 PM
Mike LaMana
 
Posts: n/a
Default Woolly Adelgid Problem Quest. ? (live outside of Boston)

Dave -

Quality stuff - I have used a lot of it at all times of year. As oils go,
this one is very good-to-excellent.

Mike


--
Mike LaMana, MS
Heartwood Consulting Services, LLC
Toms River, NJ
www.HeartwoodConsulting.net



"David J Bockman" wrote in message
...
Mike,

Your experiences with Sunspray Horticultural Oil, if any?

Dave

"Mike LaMana" fake@MikeatHeartwoodConsultingdotnet wrote in message
...
The insect has 2 or three generations per year, and has the semi-odd

habit
of going into a summer estivation (sleep-mode). Thus it seems to be

better
to spray (if using a high-quality horticultural oil) at least twice per
annum, maybe thrice.

Late summer / early Fall and early Spring seem to be the most effective

IMO.
It is possible to have great effect with oil so I do not recommend going

to
more aggressive chemicals such as imidacloprid (Merit). Tree companies

push
the Merit because they can charge more for it.

This is an easy bug to control as long as it is possible to really

drench
the tree with sprays - trees too tall (over 50') or too close to
obstructions need other treatments.

Good question!

--
Mike LaMana, MS
Heartwood Consulting Services, LLC
Toms River, NJ
www.HeartwoodConsulting.net




"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello:

Regarding the woolly adelgid problem on Hemlock trees:

Live outside of Boston.

Very confused over when the "best" time to spray is.

Spoke to a few arborists that do this, but i have the feeling they

have
a
stock answer that
the best time seems to be whenever one calls them.

Might someone please summarize for me when I should have spraying done

,
and
what treatment (oil, soap, type, etc. ), when in the year ?

Is the above answer different if one sees no problem, but wants to

prevent
one, vs
the belief that there is already a problem.

Much thanks,
Bob







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Old 20-06-2004, 11:05 PM
Zing
 
Posts: n/a
Default Woolly Adelgid Problem Quest. ? (live outside of Boston)


"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello:

Regarding the woolly adelgid problem on Hemlock trees:

Live outside of Boston.

Very confused over when the "best" time to spray is.

Spoke to a few arborists that do this, but i have the feeling they have a
stock answer that
the best time seems to be whenever one calls them.

Might someone please summarize for me when I should have spraying done,

and
what treatment (oil, soap, type, etc. ), when in the year ?

Is the above answer different if one sees no problem, but wants to prevent
one, vs
the belief that there is already a problem.

Much thanks,
Bob

My Eastern Hemlocks were treated successfully w/ horticultural oil - applied
in May in Zone 6b. I used an arborist with a specialized boom sparyer
system to reach 60'+. I think he was going after them in the egg laying
stage. In my case, I took action late - maybe 2 or 3 years after first
noticing the "white stuff." I'm no expert, but preventative spraying
probably isn't necessary as the "white stuff" is easy to spot. If you've
already had a W.A. infestation, be sure to watch out for a secondary
infestation of spider mites (oils & soap will work, but proper timing is
everything). They are opportunistic and attack already weakend trees. The
arborist also suggested using soak hose irrigation during dry spells as
Hemlocks often grow near water. He also recommended root zone fertilization
to help them recover. It all worked out well and there has been no
re-infestation 3 years later. I suggest you consult someone w/ specific W.A.
experience.

Other Hemlock & W.A. observations and factoids:
1) There are experimental programs using a predatory Asian lady bug (I
think) to control the W.A.
2) In my area, native Hemlocks, which are in bad shape, line many pristine
trout streams. It is predicted that the trout (& the entire stream
ecosystem) will be seriously harmed - even wiped out in some streams, b/c
when the shade cover is gone, water temp rises, reducing dissolved oxygen,
thus killing the fish. Since they're near water, our state DNR won't spray
anything on them.
3) I have a friend who has a lone hemlock in a 10 year old sub-division that
has never been infected or treated. It seems that they attack in areas of
high population and can "skip" isolated specimens.

Good Luck


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