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Old 05-03-2005, 02:15 AM
gary
 
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Default Renovating garden

I have just finished hand-weeding an 800 sq ft garden. The weeds were
everywhere and, because I didn't get all the weeds and/or their roots,
I'm sure that, in the very near future, the weeds will re-sprout.

What can I use to kill the remaining weeds and/or their roots without
harming the established shrubs in the garden? How do I apply that
product?

(I want to kill the weeds BEFORE I blend a 2" layer of redwood bark,
kelp meal, worm castings, bat guano and chicken manure, etc into the
top 6" of soil) and plant new shrubs.

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Old 05-03-2005, 02:46 AM
Warren
 
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gary wrote:
I have just finished hand-weeding an 800 sq ft garden. The weeds were
everywhere and, because I didn't get all the weeds and/or their roots,
I'm sure that, in the very near future, the weeds will re-sprout.

What can I use to kill the remaining weeds and/or their roots without
harming the established shrubs in the garden? How do I apply that
product?

(I want to kill the weeds BEFORE I blend a 2" layer of redwood bark,
kelp meal, worm castings, bat guano and chicken manure, etc into the
top 6" of soil) and plant new shrubs.



Newspaper. At least 8 layers thick. For large areas, I've used thick
corrugated cardboard boxes, too.

It keeps the light away, so annual weeds can't germinate. The most
persistent perennial weeds occasionally make it through, depending on
how well you overlap, but most of the weeds I have in the areas I've
done this in have been very shallow rooted annual weeds who's seeds had
found the top dressing, or grass creeping in on the edges.

You can plant through the paper, cutting or leaving holes where you
want, or you can wait a season, and the paper will be decomposed enough
to plant through.

I've done areas where I've put composted manure above or below the
newspaper, with bark mulch on top, and some areas with just bark mulch
(not the nuggets, the mulch) on top, and I haven't found any significant
difference in results. I usually have 3 or 4 inches on top of the paper.

--
Warren H.

==========
Disclaimer: My views reflect those of myself, and not my
employer, my friends, nor (as she often tells me) my wife.
Any resemblance to the views of anybody living or dead is
coincidental. No animals were hurt in the writing of this
response -- unless you count my dog who desperately wants
to go outside now.
April 15 is coming fast. Compare Tax Prep Softwa
http://www.holzemville.com/mall/taxes/index.html



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Old 05-03-2005, 10:18 AM
Toni
 
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"gary" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have just finished hand-weeding an 800 sq ft garden. The weeds were
everywhere and, because I didn't get all the weeds and/or their roots,
I'm sure that, in the very near future, the weeds will re-sprout.

What can I use to kill the remaining weeds and/or their roots without
harming the established shrubs in the garden? How do I apply that
product?



Just be aware that no matter what miracle method you use- pulling weeds is a
very regular part of gardening. You'll be surprised at the number of things
that will sprout atop/within your layer of mulch...


Toni Carroll
South Florida USA
Zone 10


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Old 05-03-2005, 05:22 PM
Registered User
 
First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Nov 2004
Location: Maryland zone 7
Posts: 239
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren
gary wrote:
I have just finished hand-weeding an 800 sq ft garden. The weeds were
everywhere and, because I didn't get all the weeds and/or their roots,
I'm sure that, in the very near future, the weeds will re-sprout.

What can I use to kill the remaining weeds and/or their roots without
harming the established shrubs in the garden? How do I apply that
product?

(I want to kill the weeds BEFORE I blend a 2" layer of redwood bark,
kelp meal, worm castings, bat guano and chicken manure, etc into the
top 6" of soil) and plant new shrubs.



Newspaper. At least 8 layers thick. For large areas, I've used thick
corrugated cardboard boxes, too.

It keeps the light away, so annual weeds can't germinate. The most
persistent perennial weeds occasionally make it through, depending on
how well you overlap, but most of the weeds I have in the areas I've
done this in have been very shallow rooted annual weeds who's seeds had
found the top dressing, or grass creeping in on the edges.

You can plant through the paper, cutting or leaving holes where you
want, or you can wait a season, and the paper will be decomposed enough
to plant through.

I've done areas where I've put composted manure above or below the
newspaper, with bark mulch on top, and some areas with just bark mulch
(not the nuggets, the mulch) on top, and I haven't found any significant
difference in results. I usually have 3 or 4 inches on top of the paper.

--
Warren H.

==========
Disclaimer: My views reflect those of myself, and not my
employer, my friends, nor (as she often tells me) my wife.
Any resemblance to the views of anybody living or dead is
coincidental. No animals were hurt in the writing of this
response -- unless you count my dog who desperately wants
to go outside now.
April 15 is coming fast. Compare Tax Prep Softwa
http://www.holzemville.com/mall/taxes/index.html


Ditto what Warren said. Best way to go in a bed that has shrubs. Just use the black printed pages, none of the shiny colored pages as those can have heavy metals.

Newt
__________________
When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.
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