The Plant Man column
for publication week of 05/29/05 - 06/04/05
(725 words)
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The Plant Man
by Steve Jones
www.landsteward.org

Use heat as organic way to kill weeds

Let's see if I can help some readers with their landscape challenges!

QUESTION: "I have looked all over the internet for information on
the effects of Round Up (weed and grass killer), but can't find
anything. We are trying to prepare a vegetable garden that's in the
middle of the yard. It's not a raised bed; it's level with the grass.
Over the winter, tons of crab grass and various weeds have crept in.

"So far, we have been totally organic, using just compost as
fertilizer, pulling weeds by hand, but the situation is BAD, and we
have three little kids and very little spare time. Someone told us to
apply Round Up, cover with plastic, wait three days, and the chemicals
would have broken down. Is this true? Will Round Up kill all our worms
and other beneficial bugs? Any knowledge you can share would be
appreciated." - Jodi

ANSWER: Round Up is a contact herbicide that kill plants by going
through the foliage and down into the root. You should not have to
cover with plastic; simply spray what you want to kill. However, you
will continue to have weed seeds in the soil and they will also
germinate. To get rid of the weed seeds you will have to spray the
ground after the Round Up kill, then again after you till the soil for
planting, and again after you plant your plants. Use Treflan for
grasses and Surflan for broadleafs, being sure to follow
manufacturer's instructions.

But if you want to remain organic and can wait a season, there is
another way. Till the area then cover with black plastic to super-heat
the soil. This should kill most all of the weed seed after one season.
After about a month, plant a cover crop of wheat and fertilize and till
into the soil to give organic matter. You will be able to plant the
following season.

QUESTION: "I have ordered some Green Giant Thuja and I'm looking
forward to seeing them on my landscape. I have researched several Web
sites that give width ranges for the GGT of anywhere from 8 ft. - 20
ft. Exactly how wide will it get? I want to plant it near my property
line (as a screen), but don't want to invade my neighbor's space. If I
plant it 4 ft in, that would allow an 8 ft diameter and still be within
the property bounds. Is it possible to regularly prune the GGT in order
to maintain an 8 ft width? I'd only be able to trim it up to 10 ft
high. Will it get much wider towards the top? I am very excited about
how high it will get, but quite nervous about how wide it will get!"
- Michelle Goldberg

ANSWER: Yes, Michelle, your information is correct regarding the
potential dimensions of the Green Giant if left to its own devices! You
can keep them trimmed to the desired width and height with very little
maintenance and no ill effect. Topping at the desired height will only
serve to thicken the foliage and this will add to the lush beauty of
your Green Giant Thula. Good luck with your new plants and if I can be
of further assistance please e-mail me again.

QUESTION: "Last spring I planted a number of young Yashino Cherry
Trees and they all made it through the winter and seem healthy enough,
but they did not flower. (They are profusely putting forth leaves.)
These trees were 3- 4 ft tall and bare root when I got them, and I am
wondering if perhaps it is normal for them to not bear flowers during
the early years of their existence?" - Russ Greenfield

ANSWER: A lot of times in the early years, we fertilize the plants to
make them produce vegetative growth which is what your trees are doing
now. The more we fertilize the more vegetative growth happens. Once you
cut back on the fertilizer, or at least wait for them to bloom in the
spring before applying fertilizer, you should see the desired results.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs
and landscaping to and for resources and
additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed
newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

With regard to the crab grass, the weed twister with the double coils
does a good job of getting at the crab grass roots and twisting out the
majority of networked roots and prostrate stems and rhizomes. You can
also use the tool for fishing for any remaining roots beneath the
surface. You'll still have to do additional twisting every few months,
but the work will be reduced considerably and this long-handled tool is
also easy on your back.

Organic is the way to go!

Ray
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Talk about weeds: the World of Weeds www.ergonica.com