We getting lots of Green June Bug swarming over our lawn this year. It
is their mating time. They aren't eathing anything, just making lots of
grubs. Lots and lots of grubs. Is their any non toxic control for the
grubs. We have a shallow well and can't use any thing like diazanon.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

In article , Stephen
Henning wrote:

We getting lots of Green June Bug swarming over our lawn this year. It
is their mating time. They aren't eathing anything, just making lots of
grubs. Lots and lots of grubs. Is their any non toxic control for the
grubs. We have a shallow well and can't use any thing like diazanon.

A two-prong attack will be a permanent control:

Milky spore (Bacillus popillae) permanently limits the activity of grubs
(& if population can be kept always to one to three grubs per square foot,
the lawn & garden will be perfectly healthy). Milky spore can thrive &amp
remain viable in the soil for a decade or permanently once the population
is infected, because each grub that dies releases more milky spore
bacteria into the soil for the next batch of grubs to eat. It has the
bonus that it does not effect butterfly larvae (as B. theringiensis
would).

Steinernema nematodes are also a permanent control which takes two years;
by the third year the june beetles will be incapable of a major explosion,
the population pretty much permanently infected with the nematodes & never
able to recover in any big way. Application of nematodes can be done once
or multiple times from about mid-July to to August or September, & that
may be enough to last for decades, though sometimes it should be done a
second year.

Here's an excellent general introduction to understanding biolgoical control:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_IN081

Microbial control method works the first year of application so it takes
patient avoidance of chemical controls which will retard or eradicate the
effectiveness of the biological control. Since you've noticed the adult
beetle population BEFORE you've seen the the damage, you already have a
one or two year head-start on the grub population. Most people find out
about them after lawn & plant damage is obvious, & that rarely occurs in
one year, so for you the nematodes & milky spore will probably take down
the population before they've done much damage. But one of the best
immediate controls people somehow overlook, or people with mulch-mowers
may never even think of:

Adult June beetles often appear en masse & mate as a large population most
of them in the same week. While they are active over the surface of the
lawn, a really good lawn mower set at minimum height, with clipping bag
attached, can literally vaccuum up the adults, &amp the clippings
double-bagged for municiple pick-up, or fumigated with a vapona strip in
each bag for a week or two before composting, or the clippings burned.

Also available as an effective biological control are parastic wasps
(Tiphia intermedia), which parasitize beetle grubs as their first choice.
Some of the finer independent nurseries will seasonally sell parasitic
wasps in early autumn, or they can be obtained from any number of mail
order sources.

Pelecinus polyturator is a spectacularly effective june beetle grub
hunter, but I don't think obtainable commercially. It's a two-inch big
jet-black flying insect, the female having a long spooky ovipositor often
mistaken for a stinger of some kind of super-wasp & totally scary to see,
but harmless to people & beneficial to the lawn & garden. It won't exist
where chemical insecticides have been used, but will annually become an
increasingly important control in a balanced organic garden.

Many regular wasps will also hunt grubs so wasps generally should be
encouraged &amp left unmolested in the garden, the majority of species
being suprisingly docile & of no threat unless one bangs right into a
nest. Also, ants feed on June beetle eggs before they even hatch, so if
you see a line of ants marching around in the lawn, don't freak out & kill
them, ants are your friends.

Starlings are also super-qualified white grub controls, so if the
starlings have ever annoyed the bejabbers out of you as garbage-birds,
think of them in the future as the white grub police. Robins also do a
pretty darned good job of yanking white grubs out of the lawn. Birds in
general should be encouraged.

Moles & skunks are the less often welcomed white grub predators. The
Olympic mole can be almost undetectible & so a welcome garden inhabitant,
but the Townsend mole makes dozens of mole-hills & usually not tolerated
because the hills are unsightly though not actually harmful. The skunk
arrives by night & leaves a series of cone-shaped holes throughout the
lawn, & will continue this activity for as long as there are grubs to be
found.

-paghat the ratgirl
--
Get your Paghat the Ratgirl T-Shirt he
http://www.paghat.com/giftshop.html
"In every country and in every age, the priest has been hostile to
liberty. He is always in alliance with the despot." -Thomas Jefferson

(paghat) wrote:

Stephen Henning wrote:
We getting lots of Green June Bug swarming over our lawn this year. It
is their mating time. They aren't eathing anything, just making lots of
grubs. Lots and lots of grubs. Is their any non toxic control for the
grubs. We have a shallow well and can't use any thing like diazanon.

A two-prong attack will be a permanent control:

Milky spore (Bacillus popillae) permanently limits the activity of grubs
(& if population can be kept always to one to three grubs per square foot,
the lawn & garden will be perfectly healthy).

Purdue University states: If you use the grub control product Milky
Spore, be aware that these natural bacteria will only control the grubs
of Japanese beetles.* In our area, it's highly unlikely that the
majority of the grubs in your lawn are all Japanese beetle grubs.* Using
this product won't control the majority of the insects damaging your
lawn; nor will they make a dent in next year's Japanese beetle
population.

Steinernema nematodes are also a permanent control which takes two years;
by the third year the june beetles will be incapable of a major explosion,
the population pretty much permanently infected with the nematodes & never
able to recover in any big way. Application of nematodes can be done once
or multiple times from about mid-July to to August or September, & that
may be enough to last for decades, though sometimes it should be done a
second year.

Michigan state found: Insect parasitic nematodes were inconsistent in
grub control tests.

Also available as an effective biological control are parastic wasps
(Tiphia intermedia), which parasitize beetle grubs as their first choice.
Some of the finer independent nurseries will seasonally sell parasitic
wasps in early autumn, or they can be obtained from any number of mail
order sources.

These sound good.

Starlings are also super-qualified white grub controls, so if the
starlings have ever annoyed the bejabbers out of you as garbage-birds,
think of them in the future as the white grub police. Robins also do a
pretty darned good job of yanking white grubs out of the lawn. Birds in
general should be encouraged.

We haven't seem many starlings for a while. The robins will have to do.
We have wild turkeys, perhaps they will eat the grub and the ticks.

Moles & skunks are the less often welcomed white grub predators.

These are the main reasons I want to get rid of the grubs. When the
moles come along the destroy the deep roots and the lawn become very
fragile.

Using the lawn mower to reduce their numbers sounds like fun. But I use
a mulching rear-discharge mower, so bagging isn't an option.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

Stephen Henning wrote:
(paghat) wrote:

Stephen Henning wrote:
We getting lots of Green June Bug swarming over our lawn this
year. It is their mating time. They aren't eathing anything,
just making lots of grubs. Lots and lots of grubs. Is their
any non toxic control for the grubs. We have a shallow well
and can't use any thing like diazanon.

A two-prong attack will be a permanent control:

Milky spore (Bacillus popillae) permanently limits the activity
of grubs (& if population can be kept always to one to three
grubs per square foot, the lawn & garden will be perfectly
healthy).

Purdue University states: If you use the grub control product Milky
Spore, be aware that these natural bacteria will only control the
grubs of Japanese beetles. In our area, it's highly unlikely that
the majority of the grubs in your lawn are all Japanese beetle
grubs. Using this product won't control the majority of the insects
damaging your lawn; nor will they make a dent in next year's
Japanese beetle population.

Steinernema nematodes are also a permanent control which takes
two years; by the third year the june beetles will be incapable
of a major explosion, the population pretty much permanently
infected with the nematodes & never able to recover in any big
way. Application of nematodes can be done once or multiple times
from about mid-July to to August or September, & that may be
enough to last for decades, though sometimes it should be done a
second year.

Michigan state found: Insect parasitic nematodes were inconsistent
in grub control tests.

Also available as an effective biological control are parastic
wasps (Tiphia intermedia), which parasitize beetle grubs as their
first choice. Some of the finer independent nurseries will
seasonally sell parasitic wasps in early autumn, or they can be
obtained from any number of mail order sources.

These sound good.

Starlings are also super-qualified white grub controls, so if the
starlings have ever annoyed the bejabbers out of you as
garbage-birds, think of them in the future as the white grub
police. Robins also do a pretty darned good job of yanking white
grubs out of the lawn. Birds in general should be encouraged.

We haven't seem many starlings for a while. The robins will have
to do. We have wild turkeys, perhaps they will eat the grub and the
ticks.

Moles & skunks are the less often welcomed white grub predators.

These are the main reasons I want to get rid of the grubs. When the
moles come along the destroy the deep roots and the lawn become very
fragile.

Using the lawn mower to reduce their numbers sounds like fun. But
I use a mulching rear-discharge mower, so bagging isn't an option.

You can have some of my starlings.

If your mower is a rear dischage one where does it discharge to?

--

Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington
USDA Zone 8
Sunset Zone 5

"Travis" wrote:

If your mower is a rear dischage one where does it discharge to?

The rear. It is a mulching mower which cuts the grass and lets it lie
down in place.

It just lets the grass lie underneath where it is cut. I never collect
the clippings. Never.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

Stephen Henning wrote:
"Travis" wrote:

If your mower is a rear dischage one where does it discharge to?

The rear. It is a mulching mower which cuts the grass and lets it
lie down in place.

It just lets the grass lie underneath where it is cut. I never
collect the clippings. Never.

On 7/7/2005 you said: Using the lawn mower to reduce their numbers
sounds like fun. But
I use a mulching rear-discharge mower, so bagging isn't an option.

How is bagging not an option?

--

Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington
USDA Zone 8
Sunset Zone 5

"Travis" wrote:

I use a mulching rear-discharge mower, so bagging isn't an option.

How is bagging not an option?

Because the grass is lying on the ground when the mower clears. There
is not shoot. A sweeper is the only option, but swept Green June Bugs
just fly away.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

Stephen Henning wrote:
"Travis" wrote:

I use a mulching rear-discharge mower, so bagging isn't an
option.

How is bagging not an option?

Because the grass is lying on the ground when the mower clears.
There is not shoot. A sweeper is the only option, but swept Green
June Bugs just fly away.

You said it was a rear discharge.

--

Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington
USDA Zone 8
Sunset Zone 5

Travis" wrote:

Stephen Henning wrote:
"Travis" wrote:
I use a mulching rear-discharge mower, so bagging isn't an
option.
How is bagging not an option?
Because the grass is lying on the ground when the mower clears.
There is not shoot. A sweeper is the only option, but swept Green
June Bugs just fly away.

You said it was a rear discharge.

I also said mulching. So as the tractor moves forward, the grass is
discharged out to the rear, hence rear discharge. You really can't mow
much grass if the mower is not moving. Rear discharge mowers are great
in that they don't throw grass at people or walkways nearby. You also
don't have to decide which way to throw the grass. It just lays back
down in place. What a novel concept.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

Stephen Henning wrote:
Travis" wrote:

Stephen Henning wrote:
"Travis" wrote:
I use a mulching rear-discharge mower, so bagging isn't an
option.
How is bagging not an option?
Because the grass is lying on the ground when the mower clears.
There is not shoot. A sweeper is the only option, but swept
Green June Bugs just fly away.

You said it was a rear discharge.

I also said mulching. So as the tractor moves forward, the grass is
discharged out to the rear, hence rear discharge. You really can't
mow much grass if the mower is not moving. Rear discharge mowers
are great in that they don't throw grass at people or walkways
nearby. You also don't have to decide which way to throw the
grass. It just lays back down in place. What a novel concept.

So you do have the option of bagging but choose not to. That is
different than bagging is not an option.

--

Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington
USDA Zone 8
Sunset Zone 5

"Travis" wrote:

I also said mulching. So as the tractor moves forward, the grass is
discharged out to the rear, hence rear discharge. You really can't
mow much grass if the mower is not moving. Rear discharge mowers
are great in that they don't throw grass at people or walkways
nearby. You also don't have to decide which way to throw the
grass. It just lays back down in place. What a novel concept.

So you do have the option of bagging but choose not to. That is
different than bagging is not an option.

Absolutely not. How do you bag grass clippings that are lying on the
ground. You would need a sweeper or vacuum which is independent of the
mower. A rear discharge mulching mower has no discharge. It just lays
the grass on the ground. The rear axle is behind the mower.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

Stephen Henning wrote:
"Travis" wrote:

I also said mulching. So as the tractor moves forward, the
grass is discharged out to the rear, hence rear discharge. You
really can't mow much grass if the mower is not moving. Rear
discharge mowers are great in that they don't throw grass at
people or walkways nearby. You also don't have to decide which
way to throw the grass. It just lays back down in place. What
a novel concept.

So you do have the option of bagging but choose not to. That is
different than bagging is not an option.

Absolutely not. How do you bag grass clippings that are lying on
the ground. You would need a sweeper or vacuum which is
independent of the mower. A rear discharge mulching mower has no
discharge. It just lays the grass on the ground. The rear axle is
behind the mower.

If it does not discharge the clippings then it is not a side/rear/or up
in the air discharge mower. It would be just a plain old mulching
mower.

--

Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington
USDA Zone 8
Sunset Zone 5

In article , Stephen
Henning wrote:

"Travis" wrote:

I also said mulching. So as the tractor moves forward, the grass is
discharged out to the rear, hence rear discharge. You really can't
mow much grass if the mower is not moving. Rear discharge mowers
are great in that they don't throw grass at people or walkways
nearby. You also don't have to decide which way to throw the
grass. It just lays back down in place. What a novel concept.

So you do have the option of bagging but choose not to. That is
different than bagging is not an option.

Absolutely not. How do you bag grass clippings that are lying on the
ground. You would need a sweeper or vacuum which is independent of the
mower. A rear discharge mulching mower has no discharge. It just lays
the grass on the ground. The rear axle is behind the mower.

Our mulch mower has an option of lifting a side-plate & attaching a bag.
We never bought the bag attachment but it's nevertheless possible.

-paggers
--
Get your Paghat the Ratgirl T-Shirt he
http://www.paghat.com/giftshop.html
"In every country and in every age, the priest has been hostile to
liberty. He is always in alliance with the despot." -Thomas Jefferson

paghat wrote:
In article ,
Stephen Henning wrote:

"Travis" wrote:

I also said mulching. So as the tractor moves forward, the
grass is discharged out to the rear, hence rear discharge.
You really can't mow much grass if the mower is not moving.
Rear discharge mowers are great in that they don't throw
grass at people or walkways nearby. You also don't have to
decide which way to throw the grass. It just lays back down
in place. What a novel concept.

So you do have the option of bagging but choose not to. That is
different than bagging is not an option.

Absolutely not. How do you bag grass clippings that are lying on
the ground. You would need a sweeper or vacuum which is
independent of the mower. A rear discharge mulching mower has no
discharge. It just lays the grass on the ground. The rear axle
is behind the mower.

Our mulch mower has an option of lifting a side-plate & attaching a
bag. We never bought the bag attachment but it's nevertheless
possible.

-paggers

Our rear discharge/mulching mower can either bag or mulch. That other
(don't remember his name) guy said he had a rear discharge/mulching
mower with no discharge. I think he was just being a jerk.

--

Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington
USDA Zone 8
Sunset Zone 5

"Travis" wrote:

If it does not discharge the clippings then it is not a side/rear/or up
in the air discharge mower. It would be just a plain old mulching
mower.

Tell that to WheelHorse. They sold it as:

"Wheel Horse 42" Rear Discharge Mower Deck"

A traditional mulching mower can't handle tall grass. This one does.
It is much more versatile than "mulching mowers". It only cuts the
grass once. Mulching mowers keep chopping it up. It is a completely
different concept.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman