Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.

It takes many many many many many more pulls. Then seems to accidentally
start just when one doesn't expect.

Could it be the plug?

"benzette" wrote in message
...
Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls to
start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new premium
or drain the other gas out.

"Betsy" wrote in message
...
It takes many many many many many more pulls. Then seems to accidentally
start just when one doesn't expect.

Could it be the plug?


Could be, but from what you described yesterday, it sound like low
compression. Worn out. Time for a rebuild or a new one.

benzette wrote:
Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.


Premium gas won't ignite any easier than regular gas in a lawn mower engine.

Premium gas has a higher octane rating which means it suffers less
preigniting from the heat of compression in high compression auto and
aircraft engines.

It'll just waste Betsy's money, Benzette

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
benzette wrote:
Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.


Premium gas won't ignite any easier than regular gas in a lawn mower
engine.

Premium gas has a higher octane rating which means it suffers less
preigniting from the heat of compression in high compression auto and
aircraft engines.

It'll just waste Betsy's money, Benzette

Jeff



Jeff is right, the difference between regular and premium is minimal.

And to be honest, as most gas stations sell such a small amount of premium
gas compared to regular.

The regular is usually fresher and still fully potent.
Many times the premium is already weeks old, and slightly dead.

People who have high compression engines that need the premium will know
what I mean.

But at the low compressions in a lawnmower it doesn't make any difference
anyway.
Save the 20 cents and buy the regular.

But you can add a very small amount of gas line deicer (PURE methyl/ethelene
hydrate/ alcohol) if you have a bit in the garage.
(NOT the rubbing alcohol from you medicine cabinet that already contains
water)

But mix it into the gas can as you only need a few drops per lawnmower tank
full. (quart)

It helps the gas fire a slight bit hotter and help pass any
water/condensation/scale through the carburetor
It may not help with your starting, but it can't hurt it.

Then pour the rest of the bottle into your car gas tank.



It may not pay to fix it, but I would bring the lawnmower somewhere else to
see if anyone else can locate the problem your neighbor seems to be missing.

It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module, pinched
spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug.
But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post.

These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could cost
$100 or more.

It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth, or some
other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs.

Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the
starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since that was
removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord)
Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful as
there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through without
being damaged

If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to see if
little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the engine
case

Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or
replaceable separately.
And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the wire
can get you going again.

But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN

Amun wrote:


But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN




All of your crappy advice is just a guess. You spelled internet wrong.
In your case it's u-n-e-d-u-c-a-t-e-d.

--
WARNING:

Do NOT under any circumstances take advice from an idiot named AMUN.

AMUN is a clueless moron regarding tile, electrical and various other
construction issues. As things go AMUN will (thankfully) dissapear
as his kind usually does when confronted with their bad advice by
those who are knowledgeable in their respective fields.
Until then - BEWARE

On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 16:31:58 -0700, G Henslee
wrote:

Amun wrote:


But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN




All of your crappy advice is just a guess. You spelled internet wrong.
In your case it's u-n-e-d-u-c-a-t-e-d.



needs a valve job, he's pulling it a lot harder than you, I was a
service manager for small engines for several years and saw this all
the time, tell him to pop the valve cover off, measure the lash and
post back with a model number.
Chip

Amun wrote:

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
benzette wrote:
Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.


Premium gas won't ignite any easier than regular gas in a lawn mower
engine.

Premium gas has a higher octane rating which means it suffers less
preigniting from the heat of compression in high compression auto and
aircraft engines.

It'll just waste Betsy's money, Benzette

Jeff


Jeff is right, the difference between regular and premium is minimal.

And to be honest, as most gas stations sell such a small amount of premium
gas compared to regular.

The regular is usually fresher and still fully potent.
Many times the premium is already weeks old, and slightly dead.

Not that it matters for her problem, but gas does not go bad in few
weeks under normal conditions. A month or two would be more of
a likelihood of such a problem. If she had her gas in the tank for that
time period, it could have gone bad. That is why I suggested she put
in a product like Stabil just after buying the gas. If her gas is that old,
it's too late to protect it, so she should dispose of it and get fresh stuff.



People who have high compression engines that need the premium will know
what I mean.

But at the low compressions in a lawnmower it doesn't make any difference
anyway.
Save the 20 cents and buy the regular.

But you can add a very small amount of gas line deicer (PURE methyl/ethelene
hydrate/ alcohol) if you have a bit in the garage.
(NOT the rubbing alcohol from you medicine cabinet that already contains
water)

Most gasolines already have about 10% alcohol in them, at least in my part of
the USA. If she bought her gas without the alcohol in it, she is better off going to
a different gas station who might not have water in the bottom of their tanks, or
finding a station that sells gasahol. My vote goes for stale gas, not gas with water in it.



But mix it into the gas can as you only need a few drops per lawnmower tank
full. (quart)

It helps the gas fire a slight bit hotter and help pass any
water/condensation/scale through the carburetor
It may not help with your starting, but it can't hurt it.

I would recommend a product called SeaFoam, available from most
auto stores to treat the gasoline to both clean the carburetor and stabilize
the gas (similar to the Stabil product I mentioned earlier). If she did not
run the gas out of her engine last season, these additives probably won't
work, and she will need to have the carburetor cleaned by a mechanic.



Then pour the rest of the bottle into your car gas tank.

It may not pay to fix it, but I would bring the lawnmower somewhere else to
see if anyone else can locate the problem your neighbor seems to be missing.

It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module, pinched
spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug.
But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post.

These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could cost
$100 or more.

It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth, or some
other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs.

Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the
starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since that was
removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord)
Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful as
there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through without
being damaged

If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to see if
little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the engine
case

Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or
replaceable separately.
And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the wire
can get you going again.

A broken ignition wire is highly unlikely, but not impossible. I would do a more
positive test of taking the plug out of the mower, but leaving it connected to it's
lead wire. Then set the body of the plug next to a large metal surface of the mower.
Pulling the starter cord should then produce a healthy spark at the plug. If it doesn't,
she has an ignition problem such as a bad plug, ignition coil, etc.



But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN

It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module,
pinched
spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug.
But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post.

These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could
cost
$100 or more.

It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth, or
some
other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs.

Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the
starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since that
was
removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord)
Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful as
there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through
without
being damaged

If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to see
if
little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the
engine
case

Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or
replaceable separately.
And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the
wire
can get you going again.

A broken ignition wire is highly unlikely, but not impossible. I would
do a more
positive test of taking the plug out of the mower, but leaving it
connected to it's
lead wire. Then set the body of the plug next to a large metal surface
of the mower.
Pulling the starter cord should then produce a healthy spark at the
plug. If it doesn't,
she has an ignition problem such as a bad plug, ignition coil, etc.



But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN

The whole part of the gas was in passing, but not even an issue here.


Since the OP never did say what make the engine is, all of us are guessing

But as the original post said the lawnmower never had any problems.

Then the rope broke and was replaced.

Then it ran good for a while, then later acted up

On newer Briggs motors you have to pull the whole flyweel cover/shroud off
the get to the rope.
If you look at the spark plug wire it comes off the coil, and just sits in
one little bend between the flywheel shroud and the block.

When putting the cover back if the wire is in the wrong spot it gets
pinched.

And may not cut through right away but the mower vibration finishes it off.
A bit of moisture, and no spark

Then the spark may jump to the block rather than going to the plug.
if only the odd weak spark makes it to the plug, it will be hard to start,
but may still fire up if pulled fast enough

It's only a guess, but it would cause all the symptoms that were described


AMUN

That sounds pretty plausible. It is a B&S engine, & I did basically have to
take it apart to replace the starter rope. I guess I need to take it apart
again to see if I pinched something?

"Amun" wrote in message
. ..
It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module,
pinched
spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug.
But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post.

These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could
cost
$100 or more.

It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth, or
some
other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs.

Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the
starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since that
was
removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord)
Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful as
there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through
without
being damaged

If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to
see
if
little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the
engine
case

Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or
replaceable separately.
And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the
wire
can get you going again.

A broken ignition wire is highly unlikely, but not impossible. I
would
do a more
positive test of taking the plug out of the mower, but leaving it
connected to it's
lead wire. Then set the body of the plug next to a large metal
surface
of the mower.
Pulling the starter cord should then produce a healthy spark at the
plug. If it doesn't,
she has an ignition problem such as a bad plug, ignition coil, etc.



But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN

The whole part of the gas was in passing, but not even an issue here.


Since the OP never did say what make the engine is, all of us are guessing

But as the original post said the lawnmower never had any problems.

Then the rope broke and was replaced.

Then it ran good for a while, then later acted up

On newer Briggs motors you have to pull the whole flyweel cover/shroud off
the get to the rope.
If you look at the spark plug wire it comes off the coil, and just sits in
one little bend between the flywheel shroud and the block.

When putting the cover back if the wire is in the wrong spot it gets
pinched.

And may not cut through right away but the mower vibration finishes it
off.
A bit of moisture, and no spark

Then the spark may jump to the block rather than going to the plug.
if only the odd weak spark makes it to the plug, it will be hard to start,
but may still fire up if pulled fast enough

It's only a guess, but it would cause all the symptoms that were described


AMUN

No need to take anything apart yet.

Look at where the spark plug wire goes back to the engine.

There is a very small "outward bend" in the flywheel shroud where the wire
should pass through.

If the wire is not there, pull off the cover and check the wire for ANY
possible damage.


AMUN



"Betsy" wrote in message
...
That sounds pretty plausible. It is a B&S engine, & I did basically have
to
take it apart to replace the starter rope. I guess I need to take it
apart
again to see if I pinched something?

"Amun" wrote in message
. ..
It could be, dirt in carb, bad/ misadjusted/weak ignition module,
pinched
spark plug wire, bent flyweel key, bad plug.
But it's impossible to tell from a usenet post.

These things are almost all cheap for parts to fix, but labour could
cost
$100 or more.

It would help to know if the motor is a briggs & stratton, tecumeth,
or
some
other make, but I'm going to assume Briggs.

Offhand I'd check the spark plug wire is not pinched/cut in the
starter-flywheel shroud where it goes out to the spark plug since
that
was
removed shortly before the problems began. (to change the pullcord)
Even an experienced person can do this easily if they aren't careful
as
there is only a slight bend in one spot for the wire to pass through
without
being damaged

If you can get the mower into the dark, try to start it and watch to
see
if
little faint blue sparks may be going right through the wire to the
engine
case

Depending on the mower this wire can be part of the coil assembly, or
replaceable separately.
And sometimes just a bit of black electrical tape/shrinkwrap over the
wire
can get you going again.

A broken ignition wire is highly unlikely, but not impossible. I
would
do a more
positive test of taking the plug out of the mower, but leaving it
connected to it's
lead wire. Then set the body of the plug next to a large metal
surface
of the mower.
Pulling the starter cord should then produce a healthy spark at the
plug. If it doesn't,
she has an ignition problem such as a bad plug, ignition coil, etc.



But as already said, this is just an internet guess.

AMUN

The whole part of the gas was in passing, but not even an issue here.


Since the OP never did say what make the engine is, all of us are
guessing

But as the original post said the lawnmower never had any problems.

Then the rope broke and was replaced.

Then it ran good for a while, then later acted up

On newer Briggs motors you have to pull the whole flyweel cover/shroud
off
the get to the rope.
If you look at the spark plug wire it comes off the coil, and just sits
in
one little bend between the flywheel shroud and the block.

When putting the cover back if the wire is in the wrong spot it gets
pinched.

And may not cut through right away but the mower vibration finishes it
off.
A bit of moisture, and no spark

Then the spark may jump to the block rather than going to the plug.
if only the odd weak spark makes it to the plug, it will be hard to
start,
but may still fire up if pulled fast enough

It's only a guess, but it would cause all the symptoms that were
described


AMUN

Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on this. The
key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane gas is good enough. I wonder
if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my
comments?

Sherwin D.

benzette wrote:

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.

I'm not ignoring anyone. Thanks for any help you've offered. I bought a
can of starter spray last night, and next time I need to cut the grass, I'm
going to try it.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high
compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on this. The
key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane gas
is good enough. I wonder
if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my
comments?

Sherwin D.

benzette wrote:

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.

Well, it seems like you are listening to the wrong people.

Starter spray might get your mower started, and then again, it may not.
It is certainly not a long term fix, and using it repeatedly can damage
your mower. Did you check the other things like the air filter, spark to
plug, bad gas? If you can't do those things, it's time to take it in for
service. If your engine starts with the starter spray, you can pretty much
rule out the spark plug and electronics, and concentrate on the fuel
quality and air filter.

Sherwin D.

Betsy wrote:

I'm not ignoring anyone. Thanks for any help you've offered. I bought a
can of starter spray last night, and next time I need to cut the grass, I'm
going to try it.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high
compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on this. The
key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane gas
is good enough. I wonder
if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my
comments?

Sherwin D.

benzette wrote:

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.

Thanks.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Well, it seems like you are listening to the wrong people.

Starter spray might get your mower started, and then again, it may not.
It is certainly not a long term fix, and using it repeatedly can damage
your mower. Did you check the other things like the air filter, spark to
plug, bad gas? If you can't do those things, it's time to take it in for
service. If your engine starts with the starter spray, you can pretty
much
rule out the spark plug and electronics, and concentrate on the fuel
quality and air filter.

Sherwin D.

Betsy wrote:

I'm not ignoring anyone. Thanks for any help you've offered. I bought a
can of starter spray last night, and next time I need to cut the grass,
I'm
going to try it.

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
Premium gas has nothing to do with her lawnmower. It is for high
compression
engines, which lawnmowers don't have. Don't waste you money on this.
The
key issue is to get rid of any stale gas with fresh gas. Low octane
gas
is good enough. I wonder
if Betsy is just ignoring my suggestions, or she missed my
comments?

Sherwin D.

benzette wrote:

Is it harder then before to pull start or is it just taking more pulls
to start it?

Maybe try premium gas. Let it run out of gas before putting in new
premium or drain the other gas out.