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#16
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"David Martel" wrote in message nk.net... Where would I give it the starter fluid? Sorry. Remove the air filter and give a big squirt straight down the carb throat. Have played with the needle valve and got it to the point where starts but it won't ever tick over until operating temperature is reached. Yes, it is now misadjusted. Screw it completely in and then out 1 1/2 turns. Clockwise will increase idle speed. You are correct it is an end-stop. If the screw does not touch metal. then investigate the throttle cable and the linkages. It would be very unusual for the linkage springs to lose "springyness". I don't understand your question about the choke. The choke should be controlled manually, usually by a lever. No, this B&S, has the choke-o-matic carb where the choke is naturally shut, but opens via vacuum acting on a diaphragm between the carb base and fuel tank under it. It will have a main fuel mixture screw and idle speed screw. As you say base setting is 1 1/2 turns out with a 2/3 ful fuel tank. This is important. Mixture strength varies with fuel level (yes, crap B&S design!) Usually have to set them slightly on the rich side so they'll accelorate cleanly from idle (which should be a fastish 1750rpm) without dying, yet run at full speed without being too rich. Tim.. |
#17
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Rick wrote: wrote in message oups.com... Hello everyone! I have a Briggs and Stratton 3.5hp engine fitted to a Hayter rotary mower from the mid 1970s. The Model number is 92982 and the Type number is 1640-01. It's a 4 cycle, single cylinder, L-head, air-cooled engine for information. The problem is I have had it sitting idle for 5 years as the starter rewind spring broke and lack of time prevented getting it sorted sooner. Last week I bought a new spring, rope, (approved Champion/B&S) spark plug and air filter foam element (old one was disintegrating, saturated new one with oil and squeezed excess out), filled the sump with fresh oil and put in half a tank of fresh 95RON unleaded. So far, so good. But pulling the rope and some carburetor needle valve tweeking got the engine to start eventually, burning off the oil I had put in throught the spark plug hole. It then splutters and pops (rich mixture burning within the exhaust?) The spark plug has looks like it's not running lean (fuel/oil on it). It then cuts out (maximum of about 15 seconds after starting). Then you can restart straight away. Any ideas as to the adjustments I need to do (I have found I can start it and get it to idle very slowly with the throttle lever set to minimum). Do I need to play with the idle adjustment screw? Is there the possibility that the carburetor needs new parts too? I've heard B&S do carburetor kits - how much would I be looking at (UK Pounds) and what parts do they contain - anyone ever used one? I know this is a long posting, but i'm not too hot on my knowledge of getting carbs to work perfectly for a smooth idle. Thanks in advance. (This email address is invalid because of spammers so reply on here). From the model number, that's a vertical shaft model with a Pulsa-Jet carb. The diaphragm kit usually sells for a couple dollars US. The Briggs and Stratton web site should have the owners manual for that model... I had one of those years ago that i had a problem with. As i recall, the carbs or fuel tanks mounted on them warped causing fuel feed problems. At one time, there was some sort of repair kit for this. Or, you put a new fuel tank on it. I would start with a new carb kit either way. Make sure too the keyway in the flywheel is not sheered and the flywheel to keyway position shifted. Bob ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#18
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g'day james,
at this point i would suggest the carby needs a good overhaul not much in them but i would think the diaphram would not be working too well after all that time being dry. snipped With peace and brightest of blessings, len -- "Be Content With What You Have And May You Find Serenity and Tranquillity In A World That You May Not Understand." http://www.users.bigpond.com/gardenlen1 |
#19
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Update: had a go with it this evening (air filter off, bolt back in).
Choke plate opens, engine runs rich for 15 seconds or so, then cuts out. Petrol mist seen in carb throat. No luck from needle valve adjustments (thanks D. Martel). Governor has to move a long way before it takes up the slack in the spring I've noticed, and the idle speed screw doesn't hit the end point. Have emailed local friendly B&S dealer about carb overhaul parts pricing/availability. It's all so frustrating as it's a nice bit of kit and too good to get rid of. Will let you know how I get on (maybe a week or so). James |
#20
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on an engine that old,id replace pointsand condenser,rebuild the carb
,check flywheel key to see if sheared and snug up all the bolts. lucas http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm |
#21
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Briggs & Stratton 3.5hp running too rich? (Cutting out)
I think i gummed up the carb.
When I ran out of gas, I put the rest of the gas in from my 5 gallon plastic tank that was filled two years ago. I ran it dry again and the mower has sputtered since. I did not pour gas into the intake by accident.. I accidently poured in in the mesh area which was just the recoil area for the hand starter. I changed air filter and plug. I will put some stabil in and see if that will solve my gummed up carb issue. |
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