Best type to use on a newly seeded lawn,granular or ground,and why

"JoeM" wrote:
Best type to use on a newly seeded lawn,granular or ground,and why

The pellets are much easier to spread since it doesn't clog the spreader as
bad as the pulverized variety. They are basically the same product
otherwise.

Steveo wrote:
"JoeM" wrote:
Best type to use on a newly seeded lawn,granular or ground,and why

The pellets are much easier to spread since it doesn't clog the spreader as
bad as the pulverized variety. They are basically the same product
otherwise.

That's incorrect. The pelletized "lime" sold in big box stores is
actually limestone (calcium carbonate). Real lime from a tile/concrete
place is hydrated calcium oxide. The pelletized product is much easier
to handle. But real lime reacts much more quickly whereas limestone is
used for monuments. Acid rain certainly has caused damage to limestone
things but it takes many years.

Now, if you want a really strong base order anhydrous calcium oxide from
a chem supply house, but be careful with it because it sucks the water
out of anything it's in contact with. I'm experimenting with a cheap
compromise -- good old fashion wash lye, sodium hydroxide. It's quite
basic and should be effective at raising the pH of the lawn.

Of course, JoeM should test his soil pH before doing anything. Mix
together samples from a half dozen spots so an average is read.

JoeM wrote:
Best type to use on a newly seeded lawn,granular or ground,and why

what about when to use? I have soil test results for my front and back
yard. I am supposed to apply lime and fertilizer to the back,
fertilizer only to the front. I will be seeding new fescue
(establishing, not overseeding) both yards this mid september. I plan
to mix the lime pretty well into the top 6" of the soil and the
fertilizer as well. Is this right? Do i do this way before or right
before i plant the seeds? or should i fertilize after i plant and have
mowed a few times? i have read both and am looking for some opinions.

thanks for any help!
jerry

ps. i'm in central NC

wrote:

JoeM wrote:
Best type to use on a newly seeded lawn,granular or ground,and why

what about when to use?

takes lime 3 to 4 months to break down and
even begin to change the pH of the soil.

I have soil test results for my front and back
yard.

this places you far far ahead of most people. my compliments
for your having tested to determine the requirements of your
soil rather than just tossing a bag of this, that, these and
those while thinking "yep, that ought to do it."


I am supposed to apply lime and fertilizer to the back,
fertilizer only to the front. I will be seeding new fescue
(establishing, not overseeding) both yards this mid september. I plan
to mix the lime pretty well into the top 6" of the soil and the
fertilizer as well. Is this right? Do i do this way before or right
before i plant the seeds? or should i fertilize after i plant and have
mowed a few times? i have read both and am looking for some opinions.

thanks for any help!
jerry

lime now. if the recommendation was for 400 pounds of lime then
break that into 4 100 pound applications spaced by a week and a half.
doing this reduces the abruptness of the lime coming due and makes
for a softer transition.

fertilize after planting and best to wait until grass is about 1/2
to 3/4 of an inch tall. then apply your fertilizer.

here's a cheap trick for making a NEW lawn jump to life in the first
weeks after the new grass sprouts. get the miracle grow feeder jar
and hook it in line with your garden hose lawn sprinkler. fill miracle
grow feeder jar with miracle grow bloom buster 10-50-10. The second
number in a fertilizer formula is the phosphorus content. Phosphorus
is used by plants to increase fruit development and to produce a strong
root system. get the root system established first. build a good
foundation first. a house built on a weak foundation will not last and
the same is true of your lawn. hook the miracle grow feeder jar to your
lawn sprinkler. when the water is clear in the miracle grow feeder jar
then that's enough for that spot. refill miracle grow feeder jar,
relocate and repeat until complete coverage of your lawn has been
accomplished. do this once a week for 3 weeks.

granular starter fertilizers have a high middle number but ALL of
them have to much nitrogen. Nitrogen is used by plants for producing
leaf growth and greener, lusher leaves. the problem results when the
grass blade growth exceeds what the roots can feed. like the house
built on a poor foundation, it looks nice for awhile but then it falls
down.

3-9-9 is the mix I use for the first several granular
fertilizer applications on new lawns.



ps. i'm in central NC

if you can drive to Wendell I'll give you a phone number
for a Farm supply house where you can purchase good quality
fertilizers at great prices. they carry a 3-9-9 with all
sub-elements. great stuff for young lawns.

lime now. if the recommendation was for 400 pounds of lime then
break that into 4 100 pound applications spaced by a week and a half.
doing this reduces the abruptness of the lime coming due and makes
for a softer transition.

ok, i can lime now, and put off seeding til late september to help give
it time. that shouldn't be a problem. only need 60 lbs/100 sf for the
small back yard. as for shocking the soil, the back yard has zero
foilage whatsoever, so i think i should just be able to do one
treatment and let it settle over time. is that right?

fertilize after planting and best to wait until grass is about 1/2
to 3/4 of an inch tall. then apply your fertilizer.

here's a cheap trick for making a NEW lawn jump to life in the first
weeks after the new grass sprouts. get the miracle grow feeder jar
and hook it in line with your garden hose lawn sprinkler. fill miracle
grow feeder jar with miracle grow bloom buster 10-50-10.

ok, my soil test says use 14 lbs for 700 sf of 5-10-5 for my front
yard.

A) how do I compare the oz's of "bloom buster" to lbs of fertilizer?
and....
B) will the double the available nitrogen be dangerous. everything i
read says nitrogen is the thing to watch the most. should i try to use
half the equivalent of this stuff (plus divide by three since i will be
doing this three times?)
C) will extra phosphorus versus what the soil test says pose any
problems (like excess nitrogen will)

granular starter fertilizers have a high middle number but ALL of
them have to much nitrogen. Nitrogen is used by plants for producing
leaf growth and greener, lusher leaves. the problem results when the
grass blade growth exceeds what the roots can feed. like the house
built on a poor foundation, it looks nice for awhile but then it falls
down.

i think i can relate to that. the starter fertilizer helped grow some
pretty darn tall rye grass for a temporary turf in a bare spot, but the
roots are tiny and can't support the blades very well.

thanks so much for the advice. my lawn is a joke (bought a house with
a bad yard that i let get worse due to lack of time). making time this
year. plus, my weeds are invading my neighbor's very nice yard, which
isn't cool even though she hasn't complained. just been reading like
crazy and trying to figure out which way is up. but everything said
get a soil test, and it's free, and the lab is 10 minutes away, so that
was a no brainer.

thanks again!

wrote:
lime now. if the recommendation was for 400 pounds of lime then
break that into 4 100 pound applications spaced by a week and a half.
doing this reduces the abruptness of the lime coming due and makes
for a softer transition.

ok, i can lime now, and put off seeding til late september to help give
it time. that shouldn't be a problem. only need 60 lbs/100 sf for the
small back yard. as for shocking the soil, the back yard has zero
foilage whatsoever, so i think i should just be able to do one
treatment and let it settle over time. is that right?

Limestone takes a long time to have an effect on the PH, so I wouldn't
make it harder by doing multiple applications spaced only 10 days
apart. If you're tilling the soil in the area to be seeded, I'd apply
the lime first, then till to incorporate it.

For fertilizing, a starter fertilizer should be put down at the time of
seeding. Read the seed bag and fertilizer bag.







fertilize after planting and best to wait until grass is about 1/2
to 3/4 of an inch tall. then apply your fertilizer.

here's a cheap trick for making a NEW lawn jump to life in the first
weeks after the new grass sprouts. get the miracle grow feeder jar
and hook it in line with your garden hose lawn sprinkler. fill miracle
grow feeder jar with miracle grow bloom buster 10-50-10.

ok, my soil test says use 14 lbs for 700 sf of 5-10-5 for my front
yard.

A) how do I compare the oz's of "bloom buster" to lbs of fertilizer?
and....
B) will the double the available nitrogen be dangerous. everything i
read says nitrogen is the thing to watch the most. should i try to use
half the equivalent of this stuff (plus divide by three since i will be
doing this three times?)
C) will extra phosphorus versus what the soil test says pose any
problems (like excess nitrogen will)

granular starter fertilizers have a high middle number but ALL of
them have to much nitrogen. Nitrogen is used by plants for producing
leaf growth and greener, lusher leaves. the problem results when the
grass blade growth exceeds what the roots can feed. like the house
built on a poor foundation, it looks nice for awhile but then it falls
down.

i think i can relate to that. the starter fertilizer helped grow some
pretty darn tall rye grass for a temporary turf in a bare spot, but the
roots are tiny and can't support the blades very well.

thanks so much for the advice. my lawn is a joke (bought a house with
a bad yard that i let get worse due to lack of time). making time this
year. plus, my weeds are invading my neighbor's very nice yard, which
isn't cool even though she hasn't complained. just been reading like
crazy and trying to figure out which way is up. but everything said
get a soil test, and it's free, and the lab is 10 minutes away, so that
was a no brainer.

thanks again!