I have round uped it, Co Oped it, using 2 things the man sez it will take it
right out. Bull Snot it got it 50% of the grass/stems but no full kill.
How about spraying it with Diesel? Fill me it and I will dance at your next
weeding or divorce which ever comes first.
Dave
Tenn

First of all, it's not a grass. It's a sedge. It's also not a broadleaf
weed, so broadleaf-specific herbicides won't be effective. Cyperus
esculentus and C. rotundus are both unique as sedges, because they're the
only ones that produce tubers, which makes them all the more difficult to
control. It's also a herbaceous perennial, so if you don't get the whole
plant (including the tubers), you'll see it again next season. Most likely
even more vigorous.

Toby said:

I have round uped it, Co Oped it, using 2 things the man sez it will take it
right out. Bull Snot it got it 50% of the grass/stems but no full kill.

How many applications of glyphosate did you do? How far apart were the
applications? Did you thoroughly irrigate 1 day before the application? Did
you irrigate again, two days later?

You won't kill it with one magic application. The best herbicides for it's
control, you can't purchase as a homeowner. Sucks, but that's the feds'
rules.

*****

Effective herbicides on yellow and purple nutsedges a

Pennant (metolachlor)
Basagran T/O (bentazon)
Image (imazaquin)
Roundup (glyphosate) [1]

Pennant is a preemergent, so that's out for now, but something to think
about for next spring.

Basagran T/O is a postemergent [2], and works best on yellow nutsedge.

Image is also a postemergent [3], and works best on purple nutsedge (you
didn't specify which).

Roundup (glyphosate) will work well also, much to your disbelief.

*****

For any of the above applications:

1. Make sure you THOROUGHLY read the ENTIRE label on the herbicide
container.

2. One day before you apply the herbicide, throughly irrigate the area to
be applied. Make sure you moisten the turf to a depth of at least 6 inches.
Check this with a soil probe, to be sure.

3. Treat the area with the PROPER rate of herbicide, according to the
recommendations on the label. If the temp is above 85 degrees Farenheit,
DON'T apply the herbicide.

4. Two days after the application, re-irrigate the areas to the same depth
as before.

5. One week after the application, repeat steps 2 thru 4. You may need
several applications to completely get rid of the nutsedge.

It also pulls very easily out of the ground, usually with the tubers
intact, unless it's a large, well-established patch (not first-season
plants). You'd be suprised how quickly an area can be cleared of nutsedge,
just by pulling it out.

If you can't/won't pull it, your best bet is probably using glyphosate.
Just watch your over-spray.

Notes:

[1]. If you can avoid buying the brand name "Roundup", do it. Look for
"glyphosate", it's the active ingredient. Scotts lost their patent, and
therefore their monopoly on glyphosate. The price difference is worth the
extra searching.

[2]. Requires the use of a crop oil (1.0% V/V).

[3]. Requires the use of a non-ionic surfactant (0.25% V/V).

HTH
--
Eggs

-A drunk man's words are a sober man's thoughts.

Eggs Zachtly wrote:

[....]

Notes:

[1]. If you can avoid buying the brand name "Roundup", do it. Look for
"glyphosate", it's the active ingredient. Scotts lost their patent, and
therefore their monopoly on glyphosate. The price difference is worth the
extra searching.

[2]. Requires the use of a crop oil (1.0% V/V).

[3]. Requires the use of a non-ionic surfactant (0.25% V/V).

HTH


http://www.agrisupplyco.com/cgi-bin/...379.000000&l=1

41% Glyphosate Concentrate (Active Ingredient)

mix 3 ounces Gly Star™ Original with each gallon of water
in the mix container. then add 3 to 5 drops of Joy dish
washing detergent for each gallon in the mix container.
the detergent makes the Glyphosate mixture stick longer on
the plant and has the effect of producing a better and more
effective kill. without the use of a surfactant nut grass
is near impossible to kill due to the limited surface area
available on nut grass for chemical adhesion. you can spend
the extra money for the Gly Star™ Plus, however, the Joy works
just as well.


yes, technically defined, it was named nutsedge. but, some
of us are still going to call it nut grass!

Jim Ledford wrote:
Eggs Zachtly wrote:

[....]

Notes:

[1]. If you can avoid buying the brand name "Roundup", do it. Look for
"glyphosate", it's the active ingredient. Scotts lost their patent, and
therefore their monopoly on glyphosate. The price difference is worth the
extra searching.

[2]. Requires the use of a crop oil (1.0% V/V).

[3]. Requires the use of a non-ionic surfactant (0.25% V/V).

HTH


http://www.agrisupplyco.com/cgi-bin/...379.000000&l=1

41% Glyphosate Concentrate (Active Ingredient)

mix 3 ounces Gly Star™ Original with each gallon of water
in the mix container. then add 3 to 5 drops of Joy dish
washing detergent for each gallon in the mix container.
the detergent makes the Glyphosate mixture stick longer on
the plant and has the effect of producing a better and more
effective kill. without the use of a surfactant nut grass
is near impossible to kill due to the limited surface area
available on nut grass for chemical adhesion. you can spend
the extra money for the Gly Star™ Plus, however, the Joy works
just as well.


yes, technically defined, it was named nutsedge. but, some
of us are still going to call it nut grass!



Basagran works great for me. I use that to selectively kill it on
lawns. I would also think glyphosate would be effective too, as that
kill just about anything, except for genetically engineered soybeans
and similar crops

Jim Ledford said:

yes, technically defined, it was named nutsedge. but, some
of us are still going to call it nut grass!

=P

--
Eggs

-If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried
before.

You need to buy something specifically for nut sedge. Manage is one brand.
With Manage, you need a surfactant also.
I have to buy Manage from a gardening store. It's not at Walmart, Target,
etc.
Lots of great info here
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7432.html
MANAGEMENT
Tubers are key to perennial nutsedges' survival. If you can limit production
of the tubers, then the nutsedge will eventually be controlled. To limit
tuber production, remove small nutsedge plants before they have five to six
leaves; in summer this is about every 2 to 3 weeks. Up to this stage, new
tubers have not yet formed. By removing as much of the plant as possible,
the tuber will be forced to produce a new plant, drawing its energy reserves
from tuber production to the production of new leaves. Continually removing
shoots eventually depletes the energy reserves in the tuber because 60% of
the reserves is used to develop the first plant and 20% for the second.
However, mature tubers can resprout as many as 10 to 12 times. Even though
these newer sprouts start out weaker than the previous ones, they will
gradually resupply the tubers' energy reserves unless they are removed.

The best way to remove small plants is to pull them up by hand or to
hand-hoe. If you hoe, be sure to dig deeply (at least 8-14 inches) to remove
the whole plant. Using a tiller to destroy mature plants will only spread
the infestation because it moves the tubers around in the soil. However,
repeated tillings of small areas before the plants have six leaves will
reduce populations. Many people mistakenly use systemic herbicides such as
glyphosate to try to kill the tubers after the plant is fully grown.
Unfortunately, when tubers are mature there is little translocation of the
herbicide from the leaves to the tubers, thus tubers are not affected.

If nutsedge is found in small patches in turf, it may be best to dig out the
patch at least 8 inches deep, refill, and then seed or sod the patch.

Biological control of nutsedge using insects and plant pathogens has been
researched, but as of yet has not provided consistent control.

In addition to consistently removing small plants, nutsedge populations can
be reduced by shading, drying, mulching with geotextiles, and with properly
timed applications of herbicides.


"Toby" wrote in message
link.net...
I have round uped it, Co Oped it, using 2 things the man sez it will take
it right out. Bull Snot it got it 50% of the grass/stems but no full kill.
How about spraying it with Diesel? Fill me it and I will dance at your
next weeding or divorce which ever comes first.
Dave
Tenn

Basagran works great for me. I use that to selectively kill it on


Were can I buy Basagran at? Is it a Co Op.. I bought 2 packets of Sledge
Hammer from them and it did not do diddley poo. Must have been the other
kind of Sledge?
Thank all you guys for the comments

Also I was thinking to weed eat it all up and then spray. That way there
would not be as much leafs to transfer down to root.

"Toby" wrote:
Also I was thinking to weed eat it all up and then spray. That way there
would not be as much leafs to transfer down to root.

That would be the worst thing to do before a foliage absorbed kill
application, wouldn't it?

"Steveo" wrote in message
...
"Toby" wrote:
Also I was thinking to weed eat it all up and then spray. That way there
would not be as much leafs to transfer down to root.

That would be the worst thing to do before a foliage absorbed kill
application, wouldn't it?

not if you wait till the new baby foliage starts regrowing before you hit
it.

Toby wrote:
Basagran works great for me. I use that to selectively kill it on


Were can I buy Basagran at? Is it a Co Op.. I bought 2 packets of Sledge
Hammer from them and it did not do diddley poo. Must have been the other
kind of Sledge?
Thank all you guys for the comments


Lesco or similar agri/landscape supply house will have it.