Hello,

I'm looking for a general guide as to time of year and type of fertilizer,
for feeding all outdoor permanent shrubs, large and small trees, some
ornamental, plants and the lawns. I have some Dogwoods, ornamental fruit
trees, shade trees, azaleas, English Ivy, Pachysandra, Rhododendrons,
hollies, and other shrubs around the house. I live in the Louisville KY
area.

I was thinking I couldn't go seriously wrong just using a typical lawn
fertilizer for all the above and begin applying it within the next month.
For the trees, drive a metal 1 inch diameter pipe about a foot into the
ground outside the drip line and fill with the fertilizer.

Comments?

Thanks,
John

On Oct 2, 7:16*am, "John Reichert"
wrote:
Hello,

I'm looking for a general guide as to time of year and type of fertilizer,
for feeding all outdoor permanent shrubs, large and small trees, some
ornamental, *plants and the lawns. * I have some Dogwoods, ornamental fruit
trees, shade trees, azaleas, English Ivy, Pachysandra, *Rhododendrons,
hollies, and other shrubs around the house. * I live in the Louisville KY
area.

I was thinking I couldn't go seriously wrong just using a typical lawn
fertilizer for all the above and begin applying it within the next month.
For the trees, drive a metal 1 inch diameter pipe about a foot into the
ground outside the drip line and fill with the fertilizer.

Comments?

Thanks,
John


All of the above get along just fine in nature without anyone
fertilizing them. One of the problems many homeowners face is
landscaping that grows so fast it takes a lot of work to keep it under
control. Giving it more fertilizer just makes it grow even faster.
I have a wide assortment of trees, shrubs, etc, and the only things I
fertilize are the lawn and any other plant that needs it for some
specific reason, ie it's not doing well, I want it to grow faster,
etc. For the lawn, I fertilize twice, once in Spring at the time
for crabgrass pre-emergent, once in early Sept, once in mid Oct.

Thanks for the comments. I still have crabgrass spouting throughout the
yard, garden and lawn. I did not put apply a pre-emergent this spring for
crabgrass. My question, if I had, would it still be working to prevent the
germination of crabgrass and other noxious weeds at this late date. I
re-seeded about weeks ago with a tall fescue which is really taking off.
If a pre-emergent was still in the soil, I think the germination of the
fescue would have been significantly reduced, yes?

Thanks,
John


wrote in message
...
On Oct 2, 7:16 am, "John Reichert"
wrote:
Hello,

I'm looking for a general guide as to time of year and type of fertilizer,
for feeding all outdoor permanent shrubs, large and small trees, some
ornamental, plants and the lawns. I have some Dogwoods, ornamental fruit
trees, shade trees, azaleas, English Ivy, Pachysandra, Rhododendrons,
hollies, and other shrubs around the house. I live in the Louisville KY
area.

I was thinking I couldn't go seriously wrong just using a typical lawn
fertilizer for all the above and begin applying it within the next month.
For the trees, drive a metal 1 inch diameter pipe about a foot into the
ground outside the drip line and fill with the fertilizer.

Comments?

Thanks,
John


All of the above get along just fine in nature without anyone
fertilizing them. One of the problems many homeowners face is
landscaping that grows so fast it takes a lot of work to keep it under
control. Giving it more fertilizer just makes it grow even faster.
I have a wide assortment of trees, shrubs, etc, and the only things I
fertilize are the lawn and any other plant that needs it for some
specific reason, ie it's not doing well, I want it to grow faster,
etc. For the lawn, I fertilize twice, once in Spring at the time
for crabgrass pre-emergent, once in early Sept, once in mid Oct.

John Reichert said:

Hello,

I'm looking for a general guide as to time of year and type of fertilizer,
for feeding all outdoor permanent shrubs, large and small trees, some
ornamental, plants and the lawns. I have some Dogwoods, ornamental fruit
trees, shade trees, azaleas, English Ivy, Pachysandra, Rhododendrons,
hollies, and other shrubs around the house. I live in the Louisville KY
area.

I was thinking I couldn't go seriously wrong just using a typical lawn
fertilizer for all the above

Why would you want to use a "typical lawn fertilizer" on plants such as
you've listed. Are they turf grasses? Hint: they have different needs than
a grass.

and begin applying it within the next month.
For the trees, drive a metal 1 inch diameter pipe about a foot into the
ground outside the drip line and fill with the fertilizer.

Why outside the drip line? Most of the intake of the tree is /within/ the
drip line.

--

Eggs

-Two cows standing next to each other in a field, Daisy says to Dolly "I
was artificially inseminated this morning."
"I don't believe you," said Dolly. "It's true, no bull!" exclaimed Daisy.

On Oct 3, 4:22*pm, "John Reichert"
wrote:
Thanks for the comments. *I still have crabgrass spouting throughout the
yard, garden and lawn. *I did not put apply a pre-emergent this spring for
crabgrass. *My question, if I had, would it still be working to prevent the
germination of crabgrass and other noxious weeds at this late date. *I
re-seeded about weeks ago with a tall *fescue which is really taking off.
If a pre-emergent was still in the soil, I think the germination of the
fescue would have been significantly reduced, yes?

Thanks,
John

You didn't tell us where you're located, but unless it's someplace
really warm, crabgrass isn't germinating now, as it's Fall. Pre-
emergent works by preventing germination for a month or so in late
Spring during the window when it does germinate with rising temps.
And the typical pre-emergent inhibits the germination of many other
weeds, grass, etc during that period. If you're seeding at the same
time or recently, there are pre-emergents, eg Tupersan that you can
still use that will not interfere with the grass germinating.








wrote in message

...
On Oct 2, 7:16 am, "John Reichert"
wrote:





Hello,

I'm looking for a general guide as to time of year and type of fertilizer,
for feeding all outdoor permanent shrubs, large and small trees, some
ornamental, plants and the lawns. I have some Dogwoods, ornamental fruit
trees, shade trees, azaleas, English Ivy, Pachysandra, Rhododendrons,
hollies, and other shrubs around the house. I live in the Louisville KY
area.

I was thinking I couldn't go seriously wrong just using a typical lawn
fertilizer for all the above and begin applying it within the next month.
For the trees, drive a metal 1 inch diameter pipe about a foot into the
ground outside the drip line and fill with the fertilizer.

Comments?

Thanks,
John

All of the above get along just fine in nature without anyone
fertilizing them. * One of the problems many homeowners face is
landscaping that grows so fast it takes a lot of work to keep it under
control. *Giving it more fertilizer just makes it grow even faster.
I have a wide assortment of trees, shrubs, etc, and the only things I
fertilize are the lawn and any other plant that needs it for some
specific reason, ie it's not doing well, I want it to grow faster,
etc. * *For the lawn, I fertilize twice, once in Spring at the time
for crabgrass pre-emergent, once in early Sept, once in mid Oct.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

wrote in message
...
On Oct 3, 4:22 pm, "John Reichert"
wrote:
Thanks for the comments. I still have crabgrass spouting throughout the
yard, garden and lawn. I did not put apply a pre-emergent this spring for
crabgrass. My question, if I had, would it still be working to prevent the
germination of crabgrass and other noxious weeds at this late date. I
re-seeded about weeks ago with a tall fescue which is really taking off.
If a pre-emergent was still in the soil, I think the germination of the
fescue would have been significantly reduced, yes?

Thanks,
John

You didn't tell us where you're located, but unless it's someplace
really warm, crabgrass isn't germinating now, as it's Fall. Pre-
emergent works by preventing germination for a month or so in late
Spring during the window when it does germinate with rising temps.
And the typical pre-emergent inhibits the germination of many other
weeds, grass, etc during that period. If you're seeding at the same
time or recently, there are pre-emergents, eg Tupersan that you can
still use that will not interfere with the grass germinating.

I live in the Louisville, KY area. I was still pulling young weeds and crab
grss from my garden this week. I don't expect a killing frost for a few
weeks. Thanks, John


wrote in message

...
On Oct 2, 7:16 am, "John Reichert"
wrote:





Hello,

I'm looking for a general guide as to time of year and type of
fertilizer,
for feeding all outdoor permanent shrubs, large and small trees, some
ornamental, plants and the lawns. I have some Dogwoods, ornamental fruit
trees, shade trees, azaleas, English Ivy, Pachysandra, Rhododendrons,
hollies, and other shrubs around the house. I live in the Louisville KY
area.

I was thinking I couldn't go seriously wrong just using a typical lawn
fertilizer for all the above and begin applying it within the next
month.
For the trees, drive a metal 1 inch diameter pipe about a foot into the
ground outside the drip line and fill with the fertilizer.

Comments?

Thanks,
John

All of the above get along just fine in nature without anyone
fertilizing them. One of the problems many homeowners face is
landscaping that grows so fast it takes a lot of work to keep it under
control. Giving it more fertilizer just makes it grow even faster.
I have a wide assortment of trees, shrubs, etc, and the only things I
fertilize are the lawn and any other plant that needs it for some
specific reason, ie it's not doing well, I want it to grow faster,
etc. For the lawn, I fertilize twice, once in Spring at the time
for crabgrass pre-emergent, once in early Sept, once in mid Oct.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -