I`ve had a cold and it`s been raining for the last week so I`ve been
staying inside. Now the lawn is greening up and I would like to know
if it is too late to apply weed & feed. I have about 2 acres of grass so
it will take at least 100 lbs. Thanks in
advance

"Herb and Eneva White" wrote in message
...
I`ve had a cold and it`s been raining for the last week so I`ve been
staying inside. Now the lawn is greening up and I would like to know
if it is too late to apply weed & feed. I have about 2 acres of grass so
it will take at least 100 lbs. Thanks in
advance

Save your money - put down a good fertilizer with most of its nitrogen slow
release or non-soluble, then spot treat any weeds you find. Weed and feed
is a victory of hype over substance and amounts to an indiscriminate use of
a pesticide (herbicide) where it isn't needed. If your sod has so many
weeds that you need to cover the entire yard with herbicide you're better
off to start over --

Especially in the south, a weed-and-feed product contains a weedkiller that
is also damaging to turfgrass. To counteract the herbicide they add
excessive soluble nitrogen to keep the grass growing. This creates a lot of
tender growth without the supporting root system, which not only draws
insects to feed, but makes the sod more vulnerable to drought and
diseases -- plus a lot of the soluble nitrogen drains through the surface
and winds up in the water supply.

On Apr 6, 4:04*pm, "JimR" wrote:
"Herb and Eneva White" wrote in ... *I`ve had a cold and it`s been raining for the last week so I`ve been
staying inside. * *Now the lawn is greening up and I would like to know
if it is too late to apply weed & feed. I have about 2 acres of grass so
it will take at least 100 lbs. * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Thanks in
advance

Save your money - put down a good fertilizer with most of its nitrogen slow
release or non-soluble, then spot treat any weeds you find. *Weed and feed
is a victory of hype over substance and amounts to an indiscriminate use of
a pesticide (herbicide) where it isn't needed. *If your sod has so many
weeds that you need to cover the entire yard with herbicide you're better
off to start over --

Especially in the south, a weed-and-feed product contains a weedkiller that
is also damaging to turfgrass. *To counteract the herbicide they add
excessive soluble nitrogen to keep the grass growing. *This creates a lot of
tender growth without the supporting root system, which not only draws
insects to feed, but makes the sod more vulnerable to drought and
diseases -- plus a lot of the soluble nitrogen drains through the surface
and winds up in the water supply.


Agree. In most cases it's better to do spot treatment with a
sprayer. That targets the herbicide where it's needed, making it
more effective and at the same time, you use a lot less which is good
for the environment.

To directly answer your question, you can put down weed n feed anytime
the turf isn't under stress. Perhaps it's crabgrass pre-emergent
that you're thinking of, which is time/temp sensitive. That should be
going down when the Forsythias start to bloom, before air temps get
into the mid 70's to 80's.

said:

On Apr 6, 4:04*pm, "JimR" wrote:
"Herb and Eneva White" wrote in ... *I`ve had a cold and it`s been raining for the last week so I`ve been
staying inside. * *Now the lawn is greening up and I would like to know
if it is too late to apply weed & feed. I have about 2 acres of grass so
it will take at least 100 lbs. * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Thanks in
advance

Save your money - put down a good fertilizer with most of its nitrogen slow
release or non-soluble, then spot treat any weeds you find. *Weed and feed
is a victory of hype over substance and amounts to an indiscriminate use of
a pesticide (herbicide) where it isn't needed. *If your sod has so many
weeds that you need to cover the entire yard with herbicide you're better
off to start over --

Especially in the south, a weed-and-feed product contains a weedkiller that
is also damaging to turfgrass. *To counteract the herbicide they add
excessive soluble nitrogen to keep the grass growing. *This creates a lot of
tender growth without the supporting root system, which not only draws
insects to feed, but makes the sod more vulnerable to drought and
diseases -- plus a lot of the soluble nitrogen drains through the surface
and winds up in the water supply.

Agree. In most cases it's better to do spot treatment with a
sprayer. That targets the herbicide where it's needed, making it
more effective and at the same time, you use a lot less which is good
for the environment.

To directly answer your question, you can put down weed n feed anytime
the turf isn't under stress. Perhaps it's crabgrass pre-emergent
that you're thinking of, which is time/temp sensitive. That should be
going down when the Forsythias start to bloom, before air temps get
into the mid 70's to 80's.

Actually, it's not the ambient temp that's the catalyst. The soil temp is
more important. If it (the soil temp) gets to 50F, crabgrass seed will
germinate, and it's too late.
--

Eggs

-A man who lives in a glass house should change in the basement.

"Herb and Eneva White" wrote in message
...
I`ve had a cold and it`s been raining for the last week so I`ve been
staying inside. Now the lawn is greening up and I would like to know
if it is too late to apply weed & feed. I have about 2 acres of grass so
it will take at least 100 lbs. Thanks in
advance

I agree with JimR, that is a massive over application of herbicide. Put
down a slow release fert and then spot spry with Weed B Gone as broadleaf
weeds appear. I have had large properties also, and still find that if I am
diligent with the spray tank, in a year or two the weeds are under control.
Of course weed seeds always blow onto your property, but a good healthy turf
is a good defense. I just do not believe in placing herbicide anywhere
except onto the plant I want to kill.

Later,

DP

On Apr 8, 12:30*am, "Dale P" wrote:
"Herb and Eneva White" wrote in ... *I`ve had a cold and it`s been raining for the last week so I`ve been
staying inside. * *Now the lawn is greening up and I would like to know
if it is too late to apply weed & feed. I have about 2 acres of grass so
it will take at least 100 lbs. * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Thanks in
advance

I agree with JimR, that is a massive over application of herbicide. *Put
down a slow release fert and then spot spry with Weed B Gone as broadleaf
weeds appear. *I have had large properties also, and still find that if I am
diligent with the spray tank, in a year or two the weeds are under control.
Of course weed seeds always blow onto your property, but a good healthy turf
is a good defense. *I just do not believe in placing herbicide anywhere
except onto the plant I want to kill.

Later,

DP

OP not saying where he is or condition of his lawn. If greening, it
is probably too late for pre-emergent crabgrass control.

I agree with others on the weed and feed issue except were lawn is
excessively weed riddled and a blanket treatment would be desirable.

On Apr 7, 6:16*pm, Eggs Zachtly wrote:
said:





On Apr 6, 4:04 pm, "JimR" wrote:
"Herb and Eneva White" wrote in ... I`ve had a cold and it`s been raining for the last week so I`ve been
staying inside. Now the lawn is greening up and I would like to know
if it is too late to apply weed & feed. I have about 2 acres of grass so
it will take at least 100 lbs. Thanks in
advance

Save your money - put down a good fertilizer with most of its nitrogen slow
release or non-soluble, then spot treat any weeds you find. Weed and feed
is a victory of hype over substance and amounts to an indiscriminate use of
a pesticide (herbicide) where it isn't needed. If your sod has so many
weeds that you need to cover the entire yard with herbicide you're better
off to start over --

Especially in the south, a weed-and-feed product contains a weedkiller that
is also damaging to turfgrass. To counteract the herbicide they add
excessive soluble nitrogen to keep the grass growing. This creates a lot of
tender growth without the supporting root system, which not only draws
insects to feed, but makes the sod more vulnerable to drought and
diseases -- plus a lot of the soluble nitrogen drains through the surface
and winds up in the water supply.

Agree. *In most cases it's better to do spot treatment with a
sprayer. * That targets the herbicide where it's needed, making it
more effective and at the same time, you use a lot less which is good
for the environment.

To directly answer your question, you can put down weed n feed anytime
the turf isn't under stress. * Perhaps it's crabgrass pre-emergent
that you're thinking of, which is time/temp sensitive. *That should be
going down when the Forsythias start to bloom, before air temps get
into the mid 70's to 80's.

Actually, it's not the ambient temp that's the catalyst. The soil temp is
more important. If it (the soil temp) gets to 50F, crabgrass seed will
germinate, and it's too late.
--

Eggs

-A man who lives in a glass house should change in the basement.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, I agree. But since most people aren't going to measure the soil
temp, the air temp is an alternate general guide. I always have a
crabgrass problem only in the 4 ft or so of lawn that is along the
street. I've recently wondered if that's because that area warms up a
lot faster and it's too late by the time I put down the pre-
emergent. So, this year, I put down pre-emergent there very early.

Of course it could be due to other factors too, like runoff, that area
is the most stressed, so it's less dense turf, etc.

said:

On Apr 7, 6:16*pm, Eggs Zachtly wrote:
said:





On Apr 6, 4:04 pm, "JimR" wrote:
"Herb and Eneva White" wrote in ... I`ve had a cold and it`s been raining for the last week so I`ve been
staying inside. Now the lawn is greening up and I would like to know
if it is too late to apply weed & feed. I have about 2 acres of grass so
it will take at least 100 lbs. Thanks in
advance

Save your money - put down a good fertilizer with most of its nitrogen slow
release or non-soluble, then spot treat any weeds you find. Weed and feed
is a victory of hype over substance and amounts to an indiscriminate use of
a pesticide (herbicide) where it isn't needed. If your sod has so many
weeds that you need to cover the entire yard with herbicide you're better
off to start over --

Especially in the south, a weed-and-feed product contains a weedkiller that
is also damaging to turfgrass. To counteract the herbicide they add
excessive soluble nitrogen to keep the grass growing. This creates a lot of
tender growth without the supporting root system, which not only draws
insects to feed, but makes the sod more vulnerable to drought and
diseases -- plus a lot of the soluble nitrogen drains through the surface
and winds up in the water supply.

Agree. *In most cases it's better to do spot treatment with a
sprayer. * That targets the herbicide where it's needed, making it
more effective and at the same time, you use a lot less which is good
for the environment.

To directly answer your question, you can put down weed n feed anytime
the turf isn't under stress. * Perhaps it's crabgrass pre-emergent
that you're thinking of, which is time/temp sensitive. *That should be
going down when the Forsythias start to bloom, before air temps get
into the mid 70's to 80's.

Actually, it's not the ambient temp that's the catalyst. The soil temp is
more important. If it (the soil temp) gets to 50F, crabgrass seed will
germinate, and it's too late.
--

Eggs

-A man who lives in a glass house should change in the basement.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, I agree. But since most people aren't going to measure the soil
temp, the air temp is an alternate general guide. I always have a
crabgrass problem only in the 4 ft or so of lawn that is along the
street. I've recently wondered if that's because that area warms up a
lot faster and it's too late by the time I put down the pre-
emergent. So, this year, I put down pre-emergent there very early.

I just finished mine LOL. I was halfway thru the app a couple weeks ago,
and noticed that I wasn't getting the drop-rate I should have. The product
in the hopper was clumped bad (I still dunno if it was the humidity that
day, or if the product was damp right outta the bag.) Needless to say, I
was pretty ****ed off about it. I had to stop, clean the spreader, and then
it had to dry and the weather turned south (rain). So, I had to wait for
the lawn to dry enough to mow again and finish the app. Fortunately, when
it finished raining, the temps took a nose dive. We're just today back into
the low 60's. With the unusual lows in the 20's and 30's, I've been more
worried about covering emerged Hostas and Polygonatum, and my Jap Maple, to
worry about the turf. I finished the app yesterday, and may have lucked out
on the weather. =)

At least the last area I needed to treat was freshly sodded at the end of
last summer, so it's pretty damn thick turf. I shouldn't have too much
crabgrass, but we'll see in a month or so.

I get plenty of weeds growing by the street, too. My theory is that's where
all the salt gets splashed over the winter, so the turfgrass says, "****
it. I ain't growin in this shit." The weeds don't care. It's abandoned soil
to them. =)


Of course it could be due to other factors too, like runoff, that area
is the most stressed, so it's less dense turf, etc.

Ya, that could be it, too. But, my money's on a higher saline content in
those areas. =)
--

Eggs

W.I.N.D.O.W.S - Will Install Necessary Drivers, Or Won't Start.