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#1
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Compotting a flask
well I run my off a sump pump which is connected to a standard hose
fitting, it took me a little looking at the hardware store to find a 3/4 to 1/2" push adapter. The pump is a 1/4 hp eletrict, it has a little power getting pressure to the top of my shelve ( a 6' rise) What you might want to do is see if you can get a larger pressure tank for your well head. I am trying to see if I can hook a presure tank into my system if I expand it and have it make up the pressure difference, I think if I use PVC and run it to a elevated pressure vessel that I should get good pressure, the part I couldn't figure out is how to wire, you have to delay the misters until pressure has built up. Jack |
#2
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Compotting a flask
If the pump can't get the pressure high enough, adding the tank won't help,
as it's the pump that pressurizes the tank. The tank does not add pressure, it merely "holds" it so the pump doesn't have to run unnecessarily. Typically, those setups consist of a pump, tank, and pressure switch, having an on/off pressure differential, in addition to a setpoint. When the pressure in the tank drops below that setpoint, the pump comes on and repressurizes it to the higher pressure of the differential, then shuts off until it gets below that lower setting. In most misting systems, the flow out is a lot less than the capacity of the pump. Rather than having a (numbers for extreme example only) 20 gpm pump running constantly while the mist heads are only allowing 1 gpm - a real strain on the pump motor - the tank allows the pump to function at full capacity then shut off. In my system, during a 20-minute continuous mist cycle, the pump runs four times for about a minute each time. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info! "Jack" wrote in message ups.com... well I run my off a sump pump which is connected to a standard hose fitting, it took me a little looking at the hardware store to find a 3/4 to 1/2" push adapter. The pump is a 1/4 hp eletrict, it has a little power getting pressure to the top of my shelve ( a 6' rise) What you might want to do is see if you can get a larger pressure tank for your well head. I am trying to see if I can hook a presure tank into my system if I expand it and have it make up the pressure difference, I think if I use PVC and run it to a elevated pressure vessel that I should get good pressure, the part I couldn't figure out is how to wire, you have to delay the misters until pressure has built up. Jack |
#3
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Compotting a flask
On 22 Apr 2006 22:45:12 -0700 in . com Jack wrote:
well I run my off a sump pump which is connected to a standard hose fitting, it took me a little looking at the hardware store to find a 3/4 to 1/2" push adapter. The pump is a 1/4 hp eletrict, it has a little power getting pressure to the top of my shelve ( a 6' rise) What you might want to do is see if you can get a larger pressure tank for your well head. I am trying to see if I can hook a presure tank into my system if I expand it and have it make up the pressure difference, I think if I use PVC and run it to a elevated pressure vessel that I should get good pressure, the part I couldn't figure out is how to wire, you have to delay the misters until pressure has built up. There are shallow well kits that should have all the bits ready to go. The pressure tank would have sensors that shut off the pump when it reaches a certain pressure and turns it on when it drops below another pressure. As memory serves this is adjustable. Al, As memory serves from the home inspection on my house, 18-20PSI is the expected cut on point for the pump. -- Chris Dukes tajwerk this job isnt bad though. Today we had free breakfast and B0rg implants. |
#4
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Compotting a flask
I use the small tanks at my washes to prevent water hammer. The
diaphragm has a definite life span, to check it, take it out of the system and fill it through the air valve on top, say, to about 20 PSI, no more, 10 is safer. The water should spurt out for awhile then stop, go slow. If after a bit air starts coming out the diaphragm is broken. Chunk the unit and replace with another. Another less positive way is to just add air to the pot. Your pump should stay on longer and off longer for a time. The air will be adsorbed or enter your system putting you back to square one. Joe T |
#5
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Compotting a flask
Just wanting to check if this is normal, all of the plants in one of my
compots have lost their leaves, they turned translucent then fell off, very limp, no browning or mold that I could see, the compots are in plastic bags with the tops open, I see new root growth but now this one lost all the leaves on the plants and some others are looking like they are going the same way. Any help appreciated Jack |
#6
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Compotting a flask
That would be a sure sign of death. Probably seedlings that couldn't handle
the transplant shock. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Artwork, Books and Lots of Free Info! "Jack" wrote in message oups.com... Just wanting to check if this is normal, all of the plants in one of my compots have lost their leaves, they turned translucent then fell off, very limp, no browning or mold that I could see, the compots are in plastic bags with the tops open, I see new root growth but now this one lost all the leaves on the plants and some others are looking like they are going the same way. Any help appreciated Jack |
#7
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Compotting a flask
well that just sucks, good thing I have another 6 pots...
hmmm. sulking |
#8
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Compotting a flask
BTW Ray, you came up today at the AKos meeting, about brown scale and
the use of alcohol, one of the members said that she had really great resulting using a product "funguscide 3" from wall mart, that it is indoor safe and safe around animals, have you heard of it? Jack |
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