Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
2 Problems
OK When it comes to deflasking everyones a bit different. I prefer to
use an inverted plastic pot with a sheet of plastic over the holes so I can adjust the air inside in very small increments, seems to work faster for me in my setup. I have used the baggie method as well with very good results. Some plants need to stay in the baggies for more than a month, some only need three or four days. Don't just open the bagg more and more evey day. You have to watch closely and adjust the opening on an as needed basis for each compot,(sometimes within a 12 hour span) you want the inside of your baggie to come close to 100% in the begginning without making moisture on the bag walls, if it does, wipe off imediantly and open the top just a touch more. The broader and larger the leaf the less time it takes to become hardy in the new enviroment. First off I would raise my humidity outside the baggie. At least a constant 75+% It shouldn't drop below about 70% That way as you open the baggie more and more it doesn't drop the humidity to low and cause the leaf drop off. I would cut the neem oil spraying when they are that young, or make it very very week solution. Same goes for the supertrive and ironite, if you use it at all make it very very week. I have deflasked many many seedlings and not put a bit of fert in the moss for several weeks while they get used to the new home.I soak my moss in a week solution of physon then rinse well before using. Witch brings us to a question, What are you compoting in? I have found that a very tall yet small pot with moss packed loosly and stopping about 1/2 inch from the top of the pot gives the plant a bit more moisture because the lip of the pot is higher than the plant. If the pot is deep then the roots can find there prefered spot, higher or lower in the moisture. The biggest thing is ROOTS If your getting plants allready deflasked they may not have the roots needed to sustain after deflasking. I order from all over the world and have found that alot of the time plants are sent to early. I have a flask of Dens from Ausralia that I ordered two years ago, they made up my order of a lot of flasks (mostly Stanhopeas) in 6 months and sent them to me, then over the next 12 months I deflasked them as the roots were strong enough to suport the plants. This last one has been sitting on the shelf for 18 months now and is just about ready to come out. As for your lighting, what are you deflasking? I am allmost exclusively Stans so my compots are in the shade with just dappled light coming thru leaves of mature plants. My Dens and Onc and Bulbos get bright light (about three or four feet under a 400 watt MH that is tilted slightly away from the shelf). Also I never let my seedling moss get dry. I mist the moss every morning trying not to wet the leaves but allways keeping the moss moist. If useing the baggie method then you don't have to mist the moss every day cause it will stay very moist in the bag for several days. If you have problems with molding then I would try more air flow, but while they are young its got to be moist air flow. I run a negitive pressure room. The air is sucked out of the room allways(the air is completly replaced every 10 mins. (yeh it uses more RO water in the atomizers but it does wonders for keeping bugs and mold down) and the incoming air is filled with moisture by atomizers at the entry points. In a 10' x 15' room I have 4 ocilating fans running all at different heights and in different areas and still there are rather large microclimates in the space. The newest compots go in the moister areas. WOW, I just read my post. What a wind bag! Sorry for the grammer and spelling but it's late and I aint correctin it now. NOOK On 8 Aug 2006 17:59:30 -0700, "Jack" wrote: I will have to try adding soap. The flasklings I take them out, they are shipped in twirl packs already taken out of the flask, but are not washed, I seperate them and place them in the compots that are already soaked with superthrive, 1/4 strength fert, and ironite transplant. I place them in 1/2 gal baggies and spray them with neem oil. I open the baggies up more each day for a week then put them in my grow rack on the next to top shelf with full shading and a grow light, 2 40w flourencents. I water them when they get dry and try to keep the medium universially moist, alittle dry between each watering, about every 2 days. temp 75F, humidity 65% - 75% with a fan running on the shelf below them which keeps the air moving. I don't think that I am over handling them. but some times I think that I am letting them get too dry, but if I let them stay wet I have problems with mold. I Know that this a subject that has been covered before, but i think that I am doing it right and still have greater than 50% fatality rate. Jack |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
2 Problems
OK, I suspect that you are right about the neem, in my latest pots, I
noticed burn right after I sprayed them down, but I have probems with mould, so I guess that I'll have to switch to pytosan. I grow in the baggie system, which makes the airflow a probem, I think that I am going to switch over to trays, a little easier to get a good airflow into. Thanks Light is bright shade, humidity it about 65-70% temp is about 70F Jack |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Mosquito Magnet Pro problems - anyone else having problems? | Gardening | |||
Houseplant problems... | Gardening | |||
anyone else having NG problems? | Gardening | |||
Mail order plants Any problems? | Gardening | |||
Paph problems | Orchids |