Cymbidium leaves not able to support itself.

I have two cymbidiums since December. One is a standard Cym and the
other I think is the warmer growing Chinese cym. They both have been
putting out new growth for over 2 months now however the leaves can't
support it owns weight and bend/flop over on it self at 1/3 to 1/2
length up from the bulb. The growth seems softer unlike the older
leaves which are harder and arch gracefully. I grow outside in
Southern California under a tall palm tree. It gets direct sunlight
till 12noon then it gets dappled shade from the palm tree's shadow
till 2 pm then on to more direct sunlight. I water it 3x a week by
soaking the pot in Better Grow 20-14-13 at 3/4 tsp a gallon or roughly
200ppm of N. Mix is bark and perlite for standard Cym and bark and
fine gravel i think for the Chinese cymb.

Also the older leaves are yellow at the tip and progressing downward.
Some of the older leaves are also splitting lengthwise right at the
main support spine.


Could anyone give me some idea as to what is causing this?

(Liam) writes:
I water it 3x a week by
(...)
Could anyone give me some idea as to what is causing this?

Check the roots. If you really water the way I think you are watering,
and 3x a week, I suspect you have extensive root rot.

Geir

My guess is way too much fertilizer.

"Liam" wrote in message
m...
Cymbidium leaves not able to support itself.

I have two cymbidiums since December. One is a standard Cym and the
other I think is the warmer growing Chinese cym. They both have been
putting out new growth for over 2 months now however the leaves can't
support it owns weight and bend/flop over on it self at 1/3 to 1/2
length up from the bulb. The growth seems softer unlike the older
leaves which are harder and arch gracefully. I grow outside in
Southern California under a tall palm tree. It gets direct sunlight
till 12noon then it gets dappled shade from the palm tree's shadow
till 2 pm then on to more direct sunlight. I water it 3x a week by
soaking the pot in Better Grow 20-14-13 at 3/4 tsp a gallon or roughly
200ppm of N. Mix is bark and perlite for standard Cym and bark and
fine gravel i think for the Chinese cymb.

Also the older leaves are yellow at the tip and progressing downward.
Some of the older leaves are also splitting lengthwise right at the
main support spine.


Could anyone give me some idea as to what is causing this?

Once our temps hit 80 and up, our cyms take watering every other day
especially when the nights don't go down below 70. But we still only
fertilize once a week with 1/4-1/2 strength 20-15-10 depending on the
season. So my guess is way too much fertilizer causing leggy (soft) leaves.
"Geir Harris Hedemark" wrote in message
...
(Liam) writes:
I water it 3x a week by
(...)
Could anyone give me some idea as to what is causing this?

Check the roots. If you really water the way I think you are watering,
and 3x a week, I suspect you have extensive root rot.

Geir

"V_coerulea" writes:
Once our temps hit 80 and up, our cyms take watering every other day
especially when the nights don't go down below 70. But we still only

Really?

BTW: 80 at this time of year shouldn't be allowed. The midday temps
here just hit the 60s.

Geir

Such is life in the southern USA. I think you have a good idea. Maybe if we
ban together we can also outlaw tornadoes, hurricanes, and dangerous
thunderstorms with 4-5" hail, 60 mph winds and constant cloud to ground
lightning.
Really, todays high only hit 79 because we we mostly cloudy with some rain.
We're rapidly approaching the temps where your highs will be looking awfully
darn good. Our cyms pull through it all in great shape with fine blooms.
Really tough aas long as they get their water.
Gary

"Geir Harris Hedemark" wrote in message
...
"V_coerulea" writes:
Once our temps hit 80 and up, our cyms take watering every other day
especially when the nights don't go down below 70. But we still only

Really?

BTW: 80 at this time of year shouldn't be allowed. The midday temps
here just hit the 60s.

Geir

"V_coerulea" writes:
Such is life in the southern USA. I think you have a good idea. Maybe if we
ban together we can also outlaw tornadoes, hurricanes, and dangerous
thunderstorms with 4-5" hail, 60 mph winds and constant cloud to ground
lightning.

Sounds like something I would want to experience once, but only once.

On the other hand, there are still patches of snow around here. Not
Good.

We're rapidly approaching the temps where your highs will be looking awfully
darn good. Our cyms pull through it all in great shape with fine blooms.

I am new to vandaceous orchids. I am pondering trying to have them
outside during the day from sometime in the middle of may until
whenever the weather goes colder. I am not satisfied with the light
they get indoors.

Does this mean I will have to upgrade my once-a-week watering regimen
as well? I think 80 is a realistic daytime high here, absolutely not
much higher than 90. Humidity is about*30-40%, light level is
approx. 100-125klux right now. They will be in full sun from 2pm until
about 10pm, and located on a tray in a container filled with water in
a hopeless attempt to increase the humidity around the plants.

Is this a suitable climate? I can leave them indoors, in which
case they only get about 30klux of artificial light, same humidity,
and a little higher temp without any air movement.

Will the light be too much for them? What should I look for when
trebling or quadrupling the amount of light, and how do I tell wether
they need more or less water short of tipping them out of the pot?
Will pests be a problem?

There are only three plants I plan on trying this with - a vanda
sansai blue, an ascocenda sunchart x yip sum wah, and an ascocenda su
fun beauty. The first one is strap-leaved and small (2 years until
flowering, I guess). the two others are semi-terete-leaved adults.

Geir