Standard cymbidiUMs are harder to bloom for the in-home grower than are the
miniatures, as they require the combination of cool growing temperatures and
bright light, while the miniatures - those bred with the Chinese species in
them - are much more tolerant of in-home type temperatures.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!

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wrote in message
om...
"Chris Ridge" wrote in message
news:TCSzb.28270$_M.121897@attbi_s54...
Hi all,

I've been growing orchids for about two years now. For the most part,
they're growing well and reblooming for me. I turned my dining room
into a
plant and craft room, with the orchids in two south facing windows with
sheer curtains. The temp is around 65-70 at night and anywhere from
70-80
during the day-- standard Cymbidiums (haven't been
successful reblooming those yet),
Chris
Cymbidians need a chill. Some of the hybrids will bloom after
exposure to temps in the 40's, I've got a mystery cym that needs to
get down freezing. If you don't have an unheated area you might try
ice packs around the pots to make it think it has gotten the chill it
needs. It takes several days of that type of chill. In Alabama the
temperature wasn't as severe as Missouri. I would leave it outside
until the weather forecast temps below freezing (got down to 26
degrees once, burned the leaves, but bloomed). Except for temps below
the threshold (I watch for lows of 28 to 30 d. F) the plants stayed
out most of the winter.

In Missouri it's trickier because it seems to go between chill and
really cold. No borderline temps for long enough. My slap 'em up
along side the head, cym are back on the balcony right now, and I'm
watching the forecasted low temps, ready to bring them back inside.

After the spikes start forming, moderate the temperature. Too cold or
too warm will damage the spikes.

Nancyg