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#1
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Roots instead of spikes...
This morning when I was watering, I noticed that many of my S/H
phals--more than 30-- have developed or are developing aerial roots where I'd expect a spike. These are plants that previously did not have aerial roots. Argh! I looked in Mary Noble's Phal book, and she writes: "Along the sides of the stem in the axil of each leaf are two or three tiny buds...these buds are like little bumps. They are capable of developing into flowering or vegetative parts." [ I assume that "vegetative parts" includes "roots".] These buds remain quiescent until envronmental conditions induce the plant to produce flowers or new growths. " Okay, so why am I getting all these roots instead of spikes? Is the plant merely reacting to S/H? Am I over-fertilizing? Am I doing something else wrong? How can I reverse this trend toward roots instead of flowers? My primary fertilizer is Dyna-Gro Grow, 7-9-5, and the leaves do not exhibit fertilizer burn. The plants look healthy, except that they are not setting spikes. They are getting almost a 15-degree drop in temperature at night. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
#2
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What's the night time temperatures?
http://primera.tamu.edu/orchids/orchids.htm K Barrett "dd" wrote in message ... This morning when I was watering, I noticed that many of my S/H phals--more than 30-- have developed or are developing aerial roots where I'd expect a spike. These are plants that previously did not have aerial roots. Argh! I looked in Mary Noble's Phal book, and she writes: "Along the sides of the stem in the axil of each leaf are two or three tiny buds...these buds are like little bumps. They are capable of developing into flowering or vegetative parts." [ I assume that "vegetative parts" includes "roots".] These buds remain quiescent until envronmental conditions induce the plant to produce flowers or new growths. " Okay, so why am I getting all these roots instead of spikes? Is the plant merely reacting to S/H? Am I over-fertilizing? Am I doing something else wrong? How can I reverse this trend toward roots instead of flowers? My primary fertilizer is Dyna-Gro Grow, 7-9-5, and the leaves do not exhibit fertilizer burn. The plants look healthy, except that they are not setting spikes. They are getting almost a 15-degree drop in temperature at night. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
#3
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About 65 degrees.
In article tYZ0d.178779$Fg5.102091@attbi_s53, K Barrett wrote: What's the night time temperatures? http://primera.tamu.edu/orchids/orchids.htm K Barrett "dd" wrote in message ... This morning when I was watering, I noticed that many of my S/H phals--more than 30-- have developed or are developing aerial roots where I'd expect a spike. These are plants that previously did not have aerial roots. Argh! I looked in Mary Noble's Phal book, and she writes: "Along the sides of the stem in the axil of each leaf are two or three tiny buds...these buds are like little bumps. They are capable of developing into flowering or vegetative parts." [ I assume that "vegetative parts" includes "roots".] These buds remain quiescent until envronmental conditions induce the plant to produce flowers or new growths. " Okay, so why am I getting all these roots instead of spikes? Is the plant merely reacting to S/H? Am I over-fertilizing? Am I doing something else wrong? How can I reverse this trend toward roots instead of flowers? My primary fertilizer is Dyna-Gro Grow, 7-9-5, and the leaves do not exhibit fertilizer burn. The plants look healthy, except that they are not setting spikes. They are getting almost a 15-degree drop in temperature at night. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
#4
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On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 16:23:03 +0000, dd wrote:
About 65 degrees. A lower nightime temp is needed to get the blooming cycle going I believe. |
#5
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Thanks, I'll drop it to 60 degrees and see what happens. I have some phals in bloom and in spike, so all of them aren't reacting like this--just some of them. Right now, the temperature is 82 degrees. In article , Tom Randy wrote: On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 16:23:03 +0000, dd wrote: About 65 degrees. A lower nightime temp is needed to get the blooming cycle going I believe. |
#6
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I've managed to bloom a lot of Phals without getting the temp much below 70,
although dropping to 60 a few nights would certainly help some of the plants. Make sure they are getting enough light. Is it time for them to spike in your part of the country? It's still too early here for most of the standard white/pink hybrids. I think the dormant buds you mentioned can only become spikes or new growths (keikeis), not spikes or roots. It's quite common for my Phals to grow some of the roots laterally as the plant gets older and starts climbing higher in the pot. -danny "dd" wrote in message ... Thanks, I'll drop it to 60 degrees and see what happens. I have some phals in bloom and in spike, so all of them aren't reacting like this--just some of them. Right now, the temperature is 82 degrees. In article , Tom Randy wrote: On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 16:23:03 +0000, dd wrote: About 65 degrees. A lower nightime temp is needed to get the blooming cycle going I believe. |
#7
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The consensus, if I remember correctly, is that a drop in temperature from day to night of about 10-15°F is more important than the
absolute night temperature. -- Reka This is LIFE! It's not a rehearsal. Don't miss it! http://www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html "dd" schrieb im Newsbeitrag ... Thanks, I'll drop it to 60 degrees and see what happens. I have some phals in bloom and in spike, so all of them aren't reacting like this--just some of them. Right now, the temperature is 82 degrees. In article , Tom Randy wrote: On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 16:23:03 +0000, dd wrote: About 65 degrees. A lower nightime temp is needed to get the blooming cycle going I believe. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.740 / Virus Database: 494 - Release Date: 16.08.04 |
#8
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The consensus, if I remember correctly, is that a drop in temperature from day to night of about 10-15°F is more important than the
absolute night temperature. -- Reka This is LIFE! It's not a rehearsal. Don't miss it! http://www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html "dd" schrieb im Newsbeitrag ... Thanks, I'll drop it to 60 degrees and see what happens. I have some phals in bloom and in spike, so all of them aren't reacting like this--just some of them. Right now, the temperature is 82 degrees. In article , Tom Randy wrote: On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 16:23:03 +0000, dd wrote: About 65 degrees. A lower nightime temp is needed to get the blooming cycle going I believe. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.740 / Virus Database: 494 - Release Date: 16.08.04 |
#9
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About 65 degrees.
In article tYZ0d.178779$Fg5.102091@attbi_s53, K Barrett wrote: What's the night time temperatures? http://primera.tamu.edu/orchids/orchids.htm K Barrett "dd" wrote in message ... This morning when I was watering, I noticed that many of my S/H phals--more than 30-- have developed or are developing aerial roots where I'd expect a spike. These are plants that previously did not have aerial roots. Argh! I looked in Mary Noble's Phal book, and she writes: "Along the sides of the stem in the axil of each leaf are two or three tiny buds...these buds are like little bumps. They are capable of developing into flowering or vegetative parts." [ I assume that "vegetative parts" includes "roots".] These buds remain quiescent until envronmental conditions induce the plant to produce flowers or new growths. " Okay, so why am I getting all these roots instead of spikes? Is the plant merely reacting to S/H? Am I over-fertilizing? Am I doing something else wrong? How can I reverse this trend toward roots instead of flowers? My primary fertilizer is Dyna-Gro Grow, 7-9-5, and the leaves do not exhibit fertilizer burn. The plants look healthy, except that they are not setting spikes. They are getting almost a 15-degree drop in temperature at night. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
#10
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I've seen this with Phals in SH. My conclusion is that the roots in the
pot are wet and the plant is climbing out of the pot. I don't consider aerial roots a bad thing. dd wrote: This morning when I was watering, I noticed that many of my S/H phals--more than 30-- have developed or are developing aerial roots where I'd expect a spike. These are plants that previously did not have aerial roots. Argh! I looked in Mary Noble's Phal book, and she writes: "Along the sides of the stem in the axil of each leaf are two or three tiny buds...these buds are like little bumps. They are capable of developing into flowering or vegetative parts." [ I assume that "vegetative parts" includes "roots".] These buds remain quiescent until envronmental conditions induce the plant to produce flowers or new growths. " Okay, so why am I getting all these roots instead of spikes? Is the plant merely reacting to S/H? Am I over-fertilizing? Am I doing something else wrong? How can I reverse this trend toward roots instead of flowers? My primary fertilizer is Dyna-Gro Grow, 7-9-5, and the leaves do not exhibit fertilizer burn. The plants look healthy, except that they are not setting spikes. They are getting almost a 15-degree drop in temperature at night. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
#11
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I have all of my collection of phal hybrids in S/H, and some do the aerial
root thing and some don't. I don't see it as a problem either way. FWIW, the phals I have had for resale - mostly in CHC/perlite/charcoal - do the same thing, which leads me to conclude that it's not a s/h issue. FWIW, part 2: Since upping my feeding rate to about 125 ppm N, I see a lot less of it. -- Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info! .. "mg" wrote in message ... I've seen this with Phals in SH. My conclusion is that the roots in the pot are wet and the plant is climbing out of the pot. I don't consider aerial roots a bad thing. dd wrote: This morning when I was watering, I noticed that many of my S/H phals--more than 30-- have developed or are developing aerial roots where I'd expect a spike. These are plants that previously did not have aerial roots. Argh! I looked in Mary Noble's Phal book, and she writes: "Along the sides of the stem in the axil of each leaf are two or three tiny buds...these buds are like little bumps. They are capable of developing into flowering or vegetative parts." [ I assume that "vegetative parts" includes "roots".] These buds remain quiescent until envronmental conditions induce the plant to produce flowers or new growths. " Okay, so why am I getting all these roots instead of spikes? Is the plant merely reacting to S/H? Am I over-fertilizing? Am I doing something else wrong? How can I reverse this trend toward roots instead of flowers? My primary fertilizer is Dyna-Gro Grow, 7-9-5, and the leaves do not exhibit fertilizer burn. The plants look healthy, except that they are not setting spikes. They are getting almost a 15-degree drop in temperature at night. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
#12
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What's the night time temperatures?
http://primera.tamu.edu/orchids/orchids.htm K Barrett "dd" wrote in message ... This morning when I was watering, I noticed that many of my S/H phals--more than 30-- have developed or are developing aerial roots where I'd expect a spike. These are plants that previously did not have aerial roots. Argh! I looked in Mary Noble's Phal book, and she writes: "Along the sides of the stem in the axil of each leaf are two or three tiny buds...these buds are like little bumps. They are capable of developing into flowering or vegetative parts." [ I assume that "vegetative parts" includes "roots".] These buds remain quiescent until envronmental conditions induce the plant to produce flowers or new growths. " Okay, so why am I getting all these roots instead of spikes? Is the plant merely reacting to S/H? Am I over-fertilizing? Am I doing something else wrong? How can I reverse this trend toward roots instead of flowers? My primary fertilizer is Dyna-Gro Grow, 7-9-5, and the leaves do not exhibit fertilizer burn. The plants look healthy, except that they are not setting spikes. They are getting almost a 15-degree drop in temperature at night. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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