Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Cattleya questions (Slc)
dd wrote:
That being said, I don't think that I'll be buying any more Slc's. I may be growing too warm for the Sophronitis in the cross, or perhaps my humidity is not high enough. I think that these are probably happier as greenhouse plants. Maybe... Most plants are 'happier' as greenhouse plants, but that doesn't mean they won't do quite well indoors. Maybe you only get 2 bloomings per year instead of the four they promise in the catalog (I've never seen any plant bloom as often as it says in the catalog - always over hyped), and it grows a little slower, but it is still rewarding. Remember that the SLC gets tacked on even if it only has a tiny percentage of Sophronitis parentage. Some observations: 1) There are plenty of Slc's out there which are quite warmth tolerant. They tend not to be the spectacular reds, unfortunately. Reds are often more cool growing. 2) The 'mini' part of a minicatt often comes from sophronitis, and the smaller the plant the more likely it is to be a cool grower. 3) The minicatts that aren't Slc (Lc., usually) are often mini from a rupiculous laelia in the background. They aren't quite as cool growing. Or, try some B. nodosa hybrids. Those stay small and are quite free blooming. 4) Orange is easier than yellow is easier than red. Usually. 5) Look for plants which have C. walkeriana in the near ancestry, I think they are easier to grow under lights. 6) Pick a vendor that knows about minicatts... Too many vendors concentrate on the pretty colors or small size as a selling point, without mentioning (or knowing!) about some of the difficulties growing these charming little things indoors. Anyway, I think the windowsill might be a better place to grow most of the smaller cattleyas than under lights. Especially if you can open the window and give them some nice cooling breezes in the fall. You can make up for a plethora of sins by giving minicatts a good dose of fall weather. -- Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list ) |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
dd wrote:
That being said, I don't think that I'll be buying any more Slc's. I may be growing too warm for the Sophronitis in the cross, or perhaps my humidity is not high enough. I think that these are probably happier as greenhouse plants. Maybe... Most plants are 'happier' as greenhouse plants, but that doesn't mean they won't do quite well indoors. Maybe you only get 2 bloomings per year instead of the four they promise in the catalog (I've never seen any plant bloom as often as it says in the catalog - always over hyped), and it grows a little slower, but it is still rewarding. Remember that the SLC gets tacked on even if it only has a tiny percentage of Sophronitis parentage. Some observations: 1) There are plenty of Slc's out there which are quite warmth tolerant. They tend not to be the spectacular reds, unfortunately. Reds are often more cool growing. 2) The 'mini' part of a minicatt often comes from sophronitis, and the smaller the plant the more likely it is to be a cool grower. 3) The minicatts that aren't Slc (Lc., usually) are often mini from a rupiculous laelia in the background. They aren't quite as cool growing. Or, try some B. nodosa hybrids. Those stay small and are quite free blooming. 4) Orange is easier than yellow is easier than red. Usually. 5) Look for plants which have C. walkeriana in the near ancestry, I think they are easier to grow under lights. 6) Pick a vendor that knows about minicatts... Too many vendors concentrate on the pretty colors or small size as a selling point, without mentioning (or knowing!) about some of the difficulties growing these charming little things indoors. Anyway, I think the windowsill might be a better place to grow most of the smaller cattleyas than under lights. Especially if you can open the window and give them some nice cooling breezes in the fall. You can make up for a plethora of sins by giving minicatts a good dose of fall weather. -- Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list ) |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
dd wrote:
That being said, I don't think that I'll be buying any more Slc's. I may be growing too warm for the Sophronitis in the cross, or perhaps my humidity is not high enough. I think that these are probably happier as greenhouse plants. Maybe... Most plants are 'happier' as greenhouse plants, but that doesn't mean they won't do quite well indoors. Maybe you only get 2 bloomings per year instead of the four they promise in the catalog (I've never seen any plant bloom as often as it says in the catalog - always over hyped), and it grows a little slower, but it is still rewarding. Remember that the SLC gets tacked on even if it only has a tiny percentage of Sophronitis parentage. Some observations: 1) There are plenty of Slc's out there which are quite warmth tolerant. They tend not to be the spectacular reds, unfortunately. Reds are often more cool growing. 2) The 'mini' part of a minicatt often comes from sophronitis, and the smaller the plant the more likely it is to be a cool grower. 3) The minicatts that aren't Slc (Lc., usually) are often mini from a rupiculous laelia in the background. They aren't quite as cool growing. Or, try some B. nodosa hybrids. Those stay small and are quite free blooming. 4) Orange is easier than yellow is easier than red. Usually. 5) Look for plants which have C. walkeriana in the near ancestry, I think they are easier to grow under lights. 6) Pick a vendor that knows about minicatts... Too many vendors concentrate on the pretty colors or small size as a selling point, without mentioning (or knowing!) about some of the difficulties growing these charming little things indoors. Anyway, I think the windowsill might be a better place to grow most of the smaller cattleyas than under lights. Especially if you can open the window and give them some nice cooling breezes in the fall. You can make up for a plethora of sins by giving minicatts a good dose of fall weather. -- Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list ) |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
As Rob well knows G, the first rule about orchids is that all the other
rules have exceptions G. On that note, Slc. Jewel Box [both the 'Dark Waters' and the 'Scheherazade' clones] have always performed very well for us, and there's no way we can be accused of growing cool -- we struggle to keep the summer highs down to 95F, and heat to 55F in the winter. We are also rather surprised to find Sc. Seagull's Beauleau Queen [a really tiny yellow] performing well here. Notwithstanding these exceptions, Slcs and Scs with a strong dose of Sophronitis in them usually want high light in combination with cool temps -- hard to provide outside their natural environments, which are usually high altitude. It does appear, however, that plants grown warm from infancy can adapt. We've grown Slc. [Naomi Kerns 'Fireball' x Jewel Box 'Scherehazade'] from flask, and they are also doing quite well. So I wouldn't just rule them all out -- rather, look at the location of the nursery where they're grown and, if possible, find out how long they've been there. I obviously can't speak for every nursery, but our philosophy is not to buy or sell things we can't grow here, under conditions which are pretty close to natural for our very hot and humid area. We do "stretch" (experiment) every now and then, or have a few of something "slipped into" an assortment [e.g. those Scs mentioned above], but if they don't perform, they don't make it to the website. On the other hand, there are also lots of other mini-catts. As Rob mentioned, C. walkeriana hybrids make nice minis; also hybrids of C. aclandiae if you like spots. Many of the Ctnas. are also mini to compact, and frequent bloomers given adequate light, and the Broughtonia in them tends to impart great heat tolerance. Good growing, -- Kenni Judd Juno Beach Orchids http://www.jborchids.com "Rob Halgren" wrote in message ... dd wrote: That being said, I don't think that I'll be buying any more Slc's. I may be growing too warm for the Sophronitis in the cross, or perhaps my humidity is not high enough. I think that these are probably happier as greenhouse plants. Maybe... Most plants are 'happier' as greenhouse plants, but that doesn't mean they won't do quite well indoors. Maybe you only get 2 bloomings per year instead of the four they promise in the catalog (I've never seen any plant bloom as often as it says in the catalog - always over hyped), and it grows a little slower, but it is still rewarding. Remember that the SLC gets tacked on even if it only has a tiny percentage of Sophronitis parentage. Some observations: 1) There are plenty of Slc's out there which are quite warmth tolerant. They tend not to be the spectacular reds, unfortunately. Reds are often more cool growing. 2) The 'mini' part of a minicatt often comes from sophronitis, and the smaller the plant the more likely it is to be a cool grower. 3) The minicatts that aren't Slc (Lc., usually) are often mini from a rupiculous laelia in the background. They aren't quite as cool growing. Or, try some B. nodosa hybrids. Those stay small and are quite free blooming. 4) Orange is easier than yellow is easier than red. Usually. 5) Look for plants which have C. walkeriana in the near ancestry, I think they are easier to grow under lights. 6) Pick a vendor that knows about minicatts... Too many vendors concentrate on the pretty colors or small size as a selling point, without mentioning (or knowing!) about some of the difficulties growing these charming little things indoors. Anyway, I think the windowsill might be a better place to grow most of the smaller cattleyas than under lights. Especially if you can open the window and give them some nice cooling breezes in the fall. You can make up for a plethora of sins by giving minicatts a good dose of fall weather. -- Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list ) |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
As Rob well knows G, the first rule about orchids is that all the other
rules have exceptions G. On that note, Slc. Jewel Box [both the 'Dark Waters' and the 'Scheherazade' clones] have always performed very well for us, and there's no way we can be accused of growing cool -- we struggle to keep the summer highs down to 95F, and heat to 55F in the winter. We are also rather surprised to find Sc. Seagull's Beauleau Queen [a really tiny yellow] performing well here. Notwithstanding these exceptions, Slcs and Scs with a strong dose of Sophronitis in them usually want high light in combination with cool temps -- hard to provide outside their natural environments, which are usually high altitude. It does appear, however, that plants grown warm from infancy can adapt. We've grown Slc. [Naomi Kerns 'Fireball' x Jewel Box 'Scherehazade'] from flask, and they are also doing quite well. So I wouldn't just rule them all out -- rather, look at the location of the nursery where they're grown and, if possible, find out how long they've been there. I obviously can't speak for every nursery, but our philosophy is not to buy or sell things we can't grow here, under conditions which are pretty close to natural for our very hot and humid area. We do "stretch" (experiment) every now and then, or have a few of something "slipped into" an assortment [e.g. those Scs mentioned above], but if they don't perform, they don't make it to the website. On the other hand, there are also lots of other mini-catts. As Rob mentioned, C. walkeriana hybrids make nice minis; also hybrids of C. aclandiae if you like spots. Many of the Ctnas. are also mini to compact, and frequent bloomers given adequate light, and the Broughtonia in them tends to impart great heat tolerance. Good growing, -- Kenni Judd Juno Beach Orchids http://www.jborchids.com "Rob Halgren" wrote in message ... dd wrote: That being said, I don't think that I'll be buying any more Slc's. I may be growing too warm for the Sophronitis in the cross, or perhaps my humidity is not high enough. I think that these are probably happier as greenhouse plants. Maybe... Most plants are 'happier' as greenhouse plants, but that doesn't mean they won't do quite well indoors. Maybe you only get 2 bloomings per year instead of the four they promise in the catalog (I've never seen any plant bloom as often as it says in the catalog - always over hyped), and it grows a little slower, but it is still rewarding. Remember that the SLC gets tacked on even if it only has a tiny percentage of Sophronitis parentage. Some observations: 1) There are plenty of Slc's out there which are quite warmth tolerant. They tend not to be the spectacular reds, unfortunately. Reds are often more cool growing. 2) The 'mini' part of a minicatt often comes from sophronitis, and the smaller the plant the more likely it is to be a cool grower. 3) The minicatts that aren't Slc (Lc., usually) are often mini from a rupiculous laelia in the background. They aren't quite as cool growing. Or, try some B. nodosa hybrids. Those stay small and are quite free blooming. 4) Orange is easier than yellow is easier than red. Usually. 5) Look for plants which have C. walkeriana in the near ancestry, I think they are easier to grow under lights. 6) Pick a vendor that knows about minicatts... Too many vendors concentrate on the pretty colors or small size as a selling point, without mentioning (or knowing!) about some of the difficulties growing these charming little things indoors. Anyway, I think the windowsill might be a better place to grow most of the smaller cattleyas than under lights. Especially if you can open the window and give them some nice cooling breezes in the fall. You can make up for a plethora of sins by giving minicatts a good dose of fall weather. -- Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren 1) There is always room for one more orchid 2) There is always room for two more orchids 2a. See rule 1 3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase more orchids, obtain more credit LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list ) |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks to both of you for the information. I read about the C.
walkeriana hybrids in a recent issue of Orchids magazine--pretty flowers! It does seem that the very small Slc. crosses are more reluctant to bloom for me. I bought all of my Slc's from Carter & Holmes. (Actually took a trip down there--a long drive from the airport in Charleston, if anyone else is so tempted to make the trip...) In South Carolina they have high temps too, but they also have much higher light that I do. In New England, being in front of a south-facing window and under a 400-watt MH light is as good as I can do for these guys. Last year under those conditions, there were no flowers on my Slcs, but a few of the bigger cattleya crosses, such as Lc. Robert Strait, bloomed like troupers. This year, summering the catt family outdoors certainly helped them to set buds, but the Slc's are still dragging their feet. The fact that a Potinara free spirit 'Lea' has two buds that are just opening-- and she's been in a south-facing window but not under the MH light--tells me that both you and Rob are right on about the high light requirements of the Sophronitis crosses. This spring, I would like to make a last-ditch effort and try a few of the crosses that Kenni and Rob note. Because space is at a premium for me, I'd really like to be successful with the minis. If my present Slcs don't put on a good show by next summer, they may find themselves donated to an orchid society auction. In article , Kenni Judd wrote: As Rob well knows G, the first rule about orchids is that all the other rules have exceptions G. On that note, Slc. Jewel Box [both the 'Dark Waters' and the 'Scheherazade' clones] have always performed very well for us, and there's no way we can be accused of growing cool -- we struggle to keep the summer highs down to 95F, and heat to 55F in the winter. We are also rather surprised to find Sc. Seagull's Beauleau Queen [a really tiny yellow] performing well here. Notwithstanding these exceptions, Slcs and Scs with a strong dose of Sophronitis in them usually want high light in combination with cool temps -- hard to provide outside their natural environments, which are usually high altitude. It does appear, however, that plants grown warm from infancy can adapt. We've grown Slc. [Naomi Kerns 'Fireball' x Jewel Box 'Scherehazade'] from flask, and they are also doing quite well. So I wouldn't just rule them all out -- rather, look at the location of the nursery where they're grown and, if possible, find out how long they've been there. I obviously can't speak for every nursery, but our philosophy is not to buy or sell things we can't grow here, under conditions which are pretty close to natural for our very hot and humid area. We do "stretch" (experiment) every now and then, or have a few of something "slipped into" an assortment [e.g. those Scs mentioned above], but if they don't perform, they don't make it to the website. On the other hand, there are also lots of other mini-catts. As Rob mentioned, C. walkeriana hybrids make nice minis; also hybrids of C. aclandiae if you like spots. Many of the Ctnas. are also mini to compact, and frequent bloomers given adequate light, and the Broughtonia in them tends to impart great heat tolerance. Good growing, |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks to both of you for the information. I read about the C.
walkeriana hybrids in a recent issue of Orchids magazine--pretty flowers! It does seem that the very small Slc. crosses are more reluctant to bloom for me. I bought all of my Slc's from Carter & Holmes. (Actually took a trip down there--a long drive from the airport in Charleston, if anyone else is so tempted to make the trip...) In South Carolina they have high temps too, but they also have much higher light that I do. In New England, being in front of a south-facing window and under a 400-watt MH light is as good as I can do for these guys. Last year under those conditions, there were no flowers on my Slcs, but a few of the bigger cattleya crosses, such as Lc. Robert Strait, bloomed like troupers. This year, summering the catt family outdoors certainly helped them to set buds, but the Slc's are still dragging their feet. The fact that a Potinara free spirit 'Lea' has two buds that are just opening-- and she's been in a south-facing window but not under the MH light--tells me that both you and Rob are right on about the high light requirements of the Sophronitis crosses. This spring, I would like to make a last-ditch effort and try a few of the crosses that Kenni and Rob note. Because space is at a premium for me, I'd really like to be successful with the minis. If my present Slcs don't put on a good show by next summer, they may find themselves donated to an orchid society auction. In article , Kenni Judd wrote: As Rob well knows G, the first rule about orchids is that all the other rules have exceptions G. On that note, Slc. Jewel Box [both the 'Dark Waters' and the 'Scheherazade' clones] have always performed very well for us, and there's no way we can be accused of growing cool -- we struggle to keep the summer highs down to 95F, and heat to 55F in the winter. We are also rather surprised to find Sc. Seagull's Beauleau Queen [a really tiny yellow] performing well here. Notwithstanding these exceptions, Slcs and Scs with a strong dose of Sophronitis in them usually want high light in combination with cool temps -- hard to provide outside their natural environments, which are usually high altitude. It does appear, however, that plants grown warm from infancy can adapt. We've grown Slc. [Naomi Kerns 'Fireball' x Jewel Box 'Scherehazade'] from flask, and they are also doing quite well. So I wouldn't just rule them all out -- rather, look at the location of the nursery where they're grown and, if possible, find out how long they've been there. I obviously can't speak for every nursery, but our philosophy is not to buy or sell things we can't grow here, under conditions which are pretty close to natural for our very hot and humid area. We do "stretch" (experiment) every now and then, or have a few of something "slipped into" an assortment [e.g. those Scs mentioned above], but if they don't perform, they don't make it to the website. On the other hand, there are also lots of other mini-catts. As Rob mentioned, C. walkeriana hybrids make nice minis; also hybrids of C. aclandiae if you like spots. Many of the Ctnas. are also mini to compact, and frequent bloomers given adequate light, and the Broughtonia in them tends to impart great heat tolerance. Good growing, |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Slc. & test - Slc. Barefoot Mailman 1.jpg [01/01] | Orchid Photos | |||
Cattleya loddigesii - lovely silky-smooth purple bifoliate cattleya | Orchid Photos | |||
Cattleya jenmanii - classic large-flowered Cattleya | Orchid Photos | |||
I'm learning, but Questions, Questions, Questions | Orchids | |||
questions, questions, questions... | Ponds |