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#1
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Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue
"Gareee©" wrote in message ... It dries very brittle, and just chips right off the rubbermaid. I did find a great simple waterproof seal though for adding a cap to t a toilet flange.. it fits on, but not waterproof, and I didn't want to glue it, in case I want to cannibalize parts down the road. A simple wrap of duct tape around worked great to seal the minute space there. Thinking of trying hot melt glue, or pvc glue next on the rubbermaid. Can't really assemble the rubbermaid filter without some gluing/sealing solution. -- Gareee (Gary Tabar Jr.) 3M has a marine urethane sealant that I have heard good things about called Fast Cure 5200. It is a moisture curing system that goes tack free in about 1 hour and completely cured in 24 hours. It is flexible and has better bond than silicone. Apply it a little thick, loosely tighten to force some of the sealant out all the way around the joint. After it has cured, tighten the screws to force pressure on the material as a conforming gasket. |
#2
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Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue
I'm thinking of trying the wax gaskets they actually use with the toilet
flanges... idea is to make the hole large enough to just accomodate the end opening, and have the large part of the flage inside the rubbermaid... and have one of the wax toiulet gaskets between the flange and the rubbermaid wall.. with compression, the wax should seal the opening, it's VERY sticky, so should grip the rubbermaid, and since there will always be water on them, the temperatures should keep them cool. they are somewhat temperature tolerant, I believe, and since they are wax, there shouldn;t be any chemicals to leech out into the pond water. Seems like a cheap and simple solution, after trying quite a number of glue/gasket solutions. If it works, I'll have discovered a neat cheap trick.. if not, I'm no worst off. -- Gareee (Gary Tabar Jr.) |
#3
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Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue
Clever. My only concerns would be heat melting it (sun) or it
hardening up and being moved somehow in the depth of winter. Jim |
#4
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Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue
In article .com,
Phyllis and Jim wrote: Clever. My only concerns would be heat melting it (sun) or it hardening up and being moved somehow in the depth of winter. Jim Aquarium silicone sealer will handle all temps, always be watertight and is safe for fish. It's also inexpensive. -- To reply by email, remove the word "space" |
#5
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Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue
The compression would have to be steadily compressed once it is
hardened. It won't bond to the plastic. That is why we went for EDPM and a tar-like sealer. It can stretch if there is any flex in the can. Steady pressure on the silicone would work as well, as long as it did not get moved. Jim |
#6
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Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue
"Phyllis and Jim" wrote in message
ups.com... The compression would have to be steadily compressed once it is hardened. It won't bond to the plastic. That is why we went for EDPM and a tar-like sealer. It can stretch if there is any flex in the can. Steady pressure on the silicone would work as well, as long as it did not get moved. So aquarium glue will not bond to the rubbermaid then? The fitting won't be moved much, but the Rubbermaid does stretch with the water weight, and since it is a fitting to an external line, I'm sure there will be some simple occasional stress from cleaning the pond, hooking things up, and detaching them, and storing the uv filter for winter. I could use shoo goo (by the Goop people, and put a very generous amount on both the interior and exterior. another thought, was to put it first on the pvc pipe itself, so there's already a rubber "gasket" around it, and then use it ac I described above.. I'd think the goop then would bond well to itself. Still considering options before pulling the filler out, and redoing that. -- Gareee (Gary Tabar Jr.) |
#7
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Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue
In article ,
"Gareee©" wrote: "Phyllis and Jim" wrote in message ups.com... The compression would have to be steadily compressed once it is hardened. It won't bond to the plastic. That is why we went for EDPM and a tar-like sealer. It can stretch if there is any flex in the can. Steady pressure on the silicone would work as well, as long as it did not get moved. So aquarium glue will not bond to the rubbermaid then? Besides making sure the surface is clean and free of any grease, You could also roughen the rubbermaid maid surface with sandpaper around where you want the seal, just to give it a little "tooth". The fitting won't be moved much, but the Rubbermaid does stretch with the water weight, and since it is a fitting to an external line, I'm sure there will be some simple occasional stress from cleaning the pond, hooking things up, and detaching them, and storing the uv filter for winter. I could use shoo goo (by the Goop people, and put a very generous amount on both the interior and exterior. another thought, was to put it first on the pvc pipe itself, so there's already a rubber "gasket" around it, and then use it ac I described above.. I'd think the goop then would bond well to itself. Shoe Goo might work also. I've only used it on shoes, though. Still considering options before pulling the filler out, and redoing that. -- To reply by email, remove the word "space" |
#8
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Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue
On Mon, 28 May 2007 14:16:18 CST, "Gareee©"
wrote: I could use shoo goo (by the Goop people, and put a very generous amount on both the interior and exterior. another thought, was to put it first on the pvc pipe itself, so there's already a rubber "gasket" around it, and then use it ac I described above.. I'd think the goop then would bond well to itself. DS said he roughed up the surface of the Rubbermaid before applying. ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
#9
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Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue
My son uses the Goop products on Rubbermaid stuff. ~ jan
------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
#10
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WAS:Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue Now: found bulkhead parts
Checked with all the local farmer's supply and marine supply stores in the
area.. because of a drought, there are no bulkheads (or very few) available locally. Figures.. LOL! So I went back through the thread, and looked for the web page that showed how to make one from electrical conduit. Yet another trip to Lowe's again.. sigh they like seeign me far too much! Anyway I managed to cobble up what looks like workable bulkheads. I used 1 1/2 inch, so it would match the pvc connected to the clear line I have coming from the uv filter. The tub gaskets he mentioned were far too large, but we managed to find #18 O rings that look like they'll do the trick, and you get 10 for a buck n change. I'll use one on the outside of the sterlite, and one on the inside as well. Hopefully they are large enough. Originally I grabbed the larger ones mentioned in the article, but then was trying to find connectors for the clear line I have for output, and was grabbing far too much stuff to make a cap. Only thing I'm lacking, is some "grate" thing for the bottom of the filter, to keep the filter material away from the bottom, so I'll use a small milk crate in the meantime, just to get it running. I'll probably buy some 3/4" pcv and corners, to make a box shape with legs, and then use strapping of some kind running around that for the filter material to rest on. With luck, I'll have this together in a few hours for a test. -- Gareee (Gary Tabar Jr.) |
#11
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WAS:Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue Now: found bulkhead parts
Ok, here's the news.. the good, the bad, and ther ugly....
Good: makeshift bulkheads seem to work great, with no leaks! Yay! Bad: Sterilie got a crack from the water weight in the lip on the top.. once the lid is secured on, I think it'll reinforce it fine. Ugly: the water flow in exceeds the waterflow out, so I'm getting overflow.. only options I can think of is trying a larger output fitting, adding a second fitting the size I currently have. I'm using the largest hose my Lowe's carries, so I'll need to also rig up a outflow pipe or hose to the pond. I could use the toilet flanges I got, but I'm still not happy with the wax seals on them. I'm going to see if there are some 2: fittings that might work out in the electrical conduit section, or the plumbing section at Lowe's. I'll need to see if I can use something that will still accept that makeshift gasket from the web page article. -- Gareee (Gary Tabar Jr.) |
#12
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WAS:Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue Now: found bulkhead parts
Ok, here's the news.. the good, the bad, and ther ugly....
Good: makeshift bulkheads seem to work great, with no leaks! Yay! Bad: Sterilie got a crack from the water weight in the lip on the top.. once the lid is secured on, I think it'll reinforce it fine. Ugly: the water flow in exceeds the waterflow out, so I'm getting overflow.. only options I can think of is trying a larger output fitting, adding a second fitting the size I currently have. I'm using the largest hose my Lowe's carries, so I'll need to also rig up a outflow pipe or hose to the pond. I could use the toilet flanges I got, but I'm still not happy with the wax seals on them. I'm going to see if there are some 2: fittings that might work out in the electrical conduit section, or the plumbing section at Lowe's. I'll need to see if I can use something that will still accept that makeshift gasket from the web page article. Hi Garee - IME, a 2" return fitting will handle up to a ~ 2000 gph pump - if you are pumping more than that through the filter, you need more than 1 - 2" return line, but more than ~1000 gph going through your filter of 45 gal will be a problem as it will not work as well (too fast) - I use a 2500gph pump that is "teed" so that I am actually running ~ 800 - 900gph through my 45 gal barrel filter and the rest directly to my waterfall Gale :~) |
#13
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WAS:Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue Now: found bulkhead parts
"G Pearce" wrote in message
... Hi Garee - IME, a 2" return fitting will handle up to a ~ 2000 gph pump - if you are pumping more than that through the filter, you need more than 1 - 2" return line, but more than ~1000 gph going through your filter of 45 gal will be a problem as it will not work as well (too fast) - I use a 2500gph pump that is "teed" so that I am actually running ~ 800 - 900gph through my 45 gal barrel filter and the rest directly to my waterfall Gale :~) Good to know.. I ended up getting a 3" setup just in case. after I made a gasket, and test fit it, the parts became so stuck, I couldn't unscrew them.. hopefully a quick trip to Lowe's, and they'll have some way to unscrew them. After getting it on, I'll drain about 2/3 of the pond to get rid of all the crap floating around in it, and hopefully that'll help the new filter get is clear sooner. Gareee (Gary Tabar Jr.) |
#14
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WAS:Rubbermaid glue report: Forget Gorilla Glue Now: found bulkhead parts
Ok, I've finally got it working! The lid does seems to contain the sterilite
bending, so that's good. There's a place on the front for a lock, and I might add some bends wire and tie it, just for aditional support. I still have a minor leak on the to outlet bulkhead.. I have 1 gasket inside, and 2 outside.. I'll add a third tomorrow, and see if that will give me enough compression to seal it. We've been in pretty bad drought for the last few months now, as a cup or two of water on the ground won't hurt anything. All the lower home made bulkheads with the O rings seems to work just fine. Wish I could fine some larger O rings around here, to use instead of the gaskets cut from rubber gasket material. Ah well.. it finally works, and other then the fish unrooting a few small transplants, all seems fine for now. With any luck, the uv will take care of the green, and the filter will filter out the suspended crap floating around. Oh! and had my first lilly bloom today as well, so after both the wife and myself weed whacking for 5 hours, it's turned out to be a good yard day. -- Gareee (Gary Tabar Jr.) |
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