Hi group,

I was hoping some of you might be able to suggest some ideas to help
control our string algae problem. Thanks in advance.

Our pond is approaching 1 year old now. We have about 5400 gallons
with a depth to about 45". One large 4' wide waterfall that is fed by
two Savio biofall filters. A powerful external Sequence pump that
pulls thru a Savio skimmer. We do not have a bottom drain. We have
city well water which is hard and higher in PH. Next year I plan on
adding a whole bunch of lilies since I suspect that the sun is my
biggest contributing factor to the algae growth. We have snails and
the the bullfrogs also seem to enjoy the water feature. We have 11
koi which average about 5-11" in size. We also have about a dozen or
so of what we think are schubunkin. A friend has been providing water
plants and obviously eggs attached to them so now we both have baby
schubunkin that are approximately 3-4" in both of our ponds. I was
also wondering if schubunkin will cross breed with koi or goldfish
since he has these three types in his pond. We are mainly in sun in
our chicago burb backyard. I would guess we only have about 20% of
our surface water utilizing plants. Our salt level has been high but
we still have been able to grow lilies, iris, cattail and some
pickerel. Water hyacinth, lettuce and millfoil are growing but are
not very healthy. Our water was tea colored earlier this year but
since then the tea color has disipated and I have gone thru a few
algae blooms. We even had the pea color water about 2 weeks ago but
since I added a UV sterilizer that problem is under control. I have
been activly using Microbe-lift products like spring cleaner earlier
this year, PL and even just started Ensure for better plant growth. I
have been using their liquid barley extract which in my mind is not
controlling the string algae all that great. Our salt level this
whole year has been high and right now is at the .08 mark after we did
a 60% water change last weekend. Our PH has been high all year and in
the middle 8's. Our hardness has been in the high range 250-425. Our
alkalinity has also been in the high range from 240-300. However, our
ammonia and nitrite ranges have always been in the safe zones. I have
tried a product called Baraclear and it works very well although they
tell me that it could not be very safe for the fish if your PH is
always in the high range. Since using an initial dosage of Baraclear
it seems like it controlled the string algae pretty good and I was
thinking of using it like as a monthy treatment. But since Ive heard
that it might not be safe for fish in a high PH environment Im
skeptical about using it regularly.

Should I be that concerned about controlling my PH to an appropriate
evel or should I consider is somewhat normal in my conditions?

Is the PH level a main factor in the string algae problem?

Other ponders in my area even those using lake Michigan water not well
water have reported higher PH levels. I have been told to try some
muriatic acid in very small and slowly disipated amounts to try and
bring my PH down. But by doing this and trying to keep my PH down to
a safer zone will it be a regular maintenance ritual? Acid is not all
that safe so should I just concentrate directly on how to control the
string algae and not so much on my overall PH levels?

Rick

snipped and summarized below.

Hi Rick, Thanks for providing lots of in depth information about your pond.
I'm going to summarize to see if I've got it right:

1 yo pond
5400 gallons
Ammonia 0 (since that is the only safe zone)
Nitrite 0
pH 8.4-8.6
salt 0.8 (naturally)
11 Koi 5-11"
12 goldfish/shubunkins (yes, they can cross breed w/koi)
?# goldfish fry
Filtration: 2 Savio biofall filters. Savio skimmer, Sequence pump
4' wide waterfall
UV
Microbelift & Baraclear added.
Various plants, self-admittedly not enough

Is the PH level a main factor in the string algae problem?

In your age pond, String Algae is totally normal. As your pond matures it
will lessen. The only thing I saw that should be corrected is that 60%
water change. If you feel a big water change is needed, it is better to do
10% every day than a big one all at once. Why you decided on the big water
change?

Regarding the pH, yes, a high pH does make it harder for the other plants
to suck up the nutrients, unlike string algae that can thrive in it. Still,
if your normal source water isn't that high, in time your pond pH will
probably come down. So I wouldn't try to reduce it.

muriatic acid in very small and slowly disipated amounts to try and
bring my PH down.

If your pH was well over 8.5, I might consider it, but it does become a
maintenance ritual till things balance out... or the same result of leaving
it be.

What I'd recommend is get more plant cover, which you've already concluded
to do. Rake out the string algae as best you can, and this fall, cover the
pond with shade cloth, this will retard the algae from growing all winter
long.

Keep your water changes to 10%/week. If you feel the need for a large water
change keep it under 25%.

String algae is TOTALLY normal for a new pond. Prior to UVs, I use to tell
folks that if they put the maximum # of fish, for their size pond, in the
first year, they will have suspended algae, most of that year. The 2nd year
the water will be clear but they'll have string algae, and the 3rd year, if
they haven't done anything to kill the algae and start the process all
over, they'll have a healthy coating of fuzz algae on the sides, no bloom
(assuming they kept the fish population below critical mass) and little
string algae. UVs sort of jump over that 1st year.

Prescription, more plants and shade, along with a healthy dose of
patience. ) ~ jan


See my ponds and filter design:
www.jjspond.us

~Keep 'em Wet!~
Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a
To e-mail see website

Thanks Jan.

I did a 60% water change because I was very high on the salt level.
My fault since I was not sure on the percentage of salt to be used.
Most of the plants were not doing very well but now are growing better
since the salt is down to a decent level. I know small water changes
are always best but in this case I was desperate. I didnt want to
loose the plants before the fall temperatures arrive. I guess I'll
just be patient and make sure that I plant enough young plant stock
next year.

Thanks for the help.


On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 13:11:18 -0700, ~ jan JJsPond.us
wrote:

snipped and summarized below.

Hi Rick, Thanks for providing lots of in depth information about your pond.
I'm going to summarize to see if I've got it right:

1 yo pond
5400 gallons
Ammonia 0 (since that is the only safe zone)
Nitrite 0
pH 8.4-8.6
salt 0.8 (naturally)
11 Koi 5-11"
12 goldfish/shubunkins (yes, they can cross breed w/koi)
?# goldfish fry
Filtration: 2 Savio biofall filters. Savio skimmer, Sequence pump
4' wide waterfall
UV
Microbelift & Baraclear added.
Various plants, self-admittedly not enough

Is the PH level a main factor in the string algae problem?

In your age pond, String Algae is totally normal. As your pond matures it
will lessen. The only thing I saw that should be corrected is that 60%
water change. If you feel a big water change is needed, it is better to do
10% every day than a big one all at once. Why you decided on the big water
change?

Regarding the pH, yes, a high pH does make it harder for the other plants
to suck up the nutrients, unlike string algae that can thrive in it. Still,
if your normal source water isn't that high, in time your pond pH will
probably come down. So I wouldn't try to reduce it.

muriatic acid in very small and slowly disipated amounts to try and
bring my PH down.

If your pH was well over 8.5, I might consider it, but it does become a
maintenance ritual till things balance out... or the same result of leaving
it be.

What I'd recommend is get more plant cover, which you've already concluded
to do. Rake out the string algae as best you can, and this fall, cover the
pond with shade cloth, this will retard the algae from growing all winter
long.

Keep your water changes to 10%/week. If you feel the need for a large water
change keep it under 25%.

String algae is TOTALLY normal for a new pond. Prior to UVs, I use to tell
folks that if they put the maximum # of fish, for their size pond, in the
first year, they will have suspended algae, most of that year. The 2nd year
the water will be clear but they'll have string algae, and the 3rd year, if
they haven't done anything to kill the algae and start the process all
over, they'll have a healthy coating of fuzz algae on the sides, no bloom
(assuming they kept the fish population below critical mass) and little
string algae. UVs sort of jump over that 1st year.

Prescription, more plants and shade, along with a healthy dose of
patience. ) ~ jan


See my ponds and filter design:
www.jjspond.us

~Keep 'em Wet!~
Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a
To e-mail see website

On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 21:32:08 -0500, Rider wrote:

Thanks Jan.

I did a 60% water change because I was very high on the salt level.

Aaaah, justifiable. ) ~ jan


~Power to the Porg, Flow On!~